Calais Shaw!
A PURL BUMPS DESIGN
was given a skein of beautiful blue yarn that inspired this shawl. The stitch pattern that I designed for the body of the shawl reminds me alternately of raindrops or tulips depending on the light and perhaps, my mood. I love how the row of eyelets separating the body from the edging gently curves like a wave. The edging is a very popular Estonian pattern and so to honor Estonian knitting I used their traditional double strand cast off which is a favorite of mine. It gives a beautiful, Isturdy and defined edge with plenty of stretch for blocking. I named my shawl after the town of Calais, France, which is on the north coast of France facing England across the narrowest part of the English Channel. I am told that on a clear day you can see the WWhite Cliffs of Dover (England) from the beach. One of their principal industries is Lace Making and Calais Lace is famous throughout the world. This is an easy knit, with quick to memorize pattern repeats. It is top down construction beginning at the neck edge with a few stitches. The pattern makes it so easy to dream while you knit. My dream was of sandy beaches and blue, blue sky and the white cliffs on the horizon as I wallked barefoot along the edge of the incoming tide. Blocked size - 48 inches wide by 22 inches deep
Materials
Fingering weight - approximately 325-350 m (355-383 yds) The blue sample shown in Sweet Fiber Avery Sport, 50% Silk, 50% Merino [329m/360 yds,95 gram / 3.35 oz skein: I skeinBlue The green sample shown in Handmaiden Casbah Sock, 80% Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon [325m/355yd,I15 gm / 4 oz skein:I skein Moss 3.75mm (5 US) circular Needle, 32-inch length
Abbreviations used
K - knit P- purl YO - yarn over RS - right side WS - wrong side PM - place marker
Notes on reading the Charts
When following the written instructions to the charts, the pattern repeat in indicated by the bold text in brackets.
Cast On
Cast on two stitches by making two backward loops onto the needle. Each time you repeat rows 17 to 22 you will add enough stitches for another 6 stitch repeaton eachhalfof the shawl. Work repeats until you have 195 stitches on the needle, ending after completing row 22. The charts provided represent one half of the shawl. There are two edge stitches at each end of your needle that are not shown on the charts. The four edge stitches are worked in garter stitch (knit every row) throughout. There is one centre stitch that is not shown on the charts and divides the two halves of the shawl. The centre stitch is worked in stocking stitch throughout. When working the charts, begin by working two edge stitches, work through the appropriate row of the chart, work the center stitch, repeat the same row of the chart for the second half of the shawl (reading in the same direction) and end with two edge stitches. Knit 6 rows. Next row: Knit 2 stitches, do not turn work, but rotate your work one quarter turn to the right and pick up and knit 3 stitches along the edge of the garter ridges (one stitch for each garter ridge). Turn the work another one-quarter turn to the right and pick up and knit two stitches from the cast on edge (the two backward loops). You should have a total of 7 stitches on the needle. Next row (WWS): K2, PI, PM, PI, PM, PI, K2. You now have a marker on either side of the center stitch. As you increase on either side of the center stitch be sure to keep your markers right next to the center stitch. You should have 2 edge stitches, 95 pattern stitches, 1 center stitch,another 95 pattern stitches, and 2 edge stitches for a total of 195 stitches on the needle.
Chart A
The next eyelet section is not part of either chart - work as directed below:
Eyelet Row I (RS): K2,YO, knit to center stitch, YO, knit center stitch, YO, knit until 2 stitches left, YO, K2. Row 2 (WS): Knit to center stitch, purl center stitch, knit to end. Row 3 (RS): K2,YO, (knit 2 together, YO) repeat until there is one stitch left before the center stitch. KI,YO, knit center stitch, YO, KI (YO, knit 2 together) repeat until there are two stitches left, YO, K2. Repeat rows 17 to 22 a further 12 times. The red vertical lines indicate the 6-stitch repeat. Wrong side rows are not shown on the charts and are worked as follows: Knit 2 edge stitches, purl all stitches until 2 stitches remain, knit 2 edge stitches. Begin ChartA and work rows I to 22. All right side rows (odd numbered rows) are read from right to left. Row 4 (WS): Knit to center stitch, purl center stitch, knit to end. Row 5 (RS): K2,YO, knit to center stitch, YO, knit center stitch, YO, knit until there are 2 stitches left, YO, K2. Row 6 (WS): Knit to center stitch, purl center stitch, knit to end. You should now have 207 stitches on the needle - 2 edge stitches, I0l pattern stitches, I center stitch, I01 pattern stitches, and two edge stitches.
Chart B
Begin chart B with row I. The 10 stitch repeat is indicated by the red vertical lines. You may work the entire chart through row 20, or if you run out of yarn you may stop after completing any wrong side row. If you have extra yarn you may make your edging as deep as you'd like. After completing row 20, you may go back and repeat rows I9-20 as many times as you'd like to. Keep in mind that you will need a doubled length of yarn if you wish to do the double strand Estonian bind-off that follows.
Double Strand Estonian Bind-Off
Note: This technique may be done with a single strand of yarn if desired. Pick up another length of yarn and use two strands of yarn held together for the bind-off. Leaving a tail of the new strand to weave through later, begin bind-off:
Slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch, \*slip these two stitches back to left needle and knit two together through the back loop. Knit one\*
Repeat between \* \* until all stitches are bound off.
Finishing
Weave in your tails but do not trim until after blocking. Soak your shawl in cold water and no rinse wool wash for at least 30 minutes to allow the fibres to become completely saturated. Roll in a white towel or spin out excess water using a lingerie bag and the spin cycle of your washing machine. Using T pins and blocking wires block while wet. Stretch while blocking to open up the lace pattern. The edging may be pinned out into points where the yo, knit I, yo naturally creates a point. Leave until completely dry or overnight. Remove the pins and blocking wires, trim the tail ends of yarn, and dance around the room with your new shawl. I hope you enjoyed this pattern. This edition of the Calais Shawl pattern was revised in May 2012. The original pattern was published in March 2010.
Copyright 2010
[all rights reserved
This pattern is provided free of charge for your personal use only. Please do not use it for any other purpose without the permission of the designer. Judy Marples may be reached on Ravelry as spinnyknitter judymarples@gmail.com
CHART A
CHART B
CHART A Rl: yo, kl, yo R3: yo, k3, yo R5: yo, kl, yo, cdbl dec, yo, kl, yo R7: yo, k2, yo, cdbl dec, yo, k2, yo R9: yo, k3, yo, cdbl dec, yo, k3, yo RIll: yo, kl, yo, cdbl dec, yo, k3, yo, cdbl dec, yo, kl,yo R13:yo, k2, yo, cdbl dec, yo, kl, pl, kl, yo, cdbl dec, yo, k2, yo R15: yo, k3, (yo, cdbl dec, yo, k3) 2 times, yo R17: yo, kl, [yo, cdbl dec, yo, k3] yo, cdbl dec, yo, kl, yo R19:yo, k2, [yo, cdbl dec, yo, kl, pl, kl] yo, cdbl dec, yo, k2, yo R2I : yo, k3, [yo, cdbl dec, yo, k3] yo CHARTB Rl: yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] kl, yo R3: yo, kl, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] kl, yo, kl, yo R5: yo, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] kl, yo, k3, yo R7: yo, k5, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] kl, yo, k5, yo R9: yo, k7, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] kl, yo, k7, yo RIll: yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] R13: yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] R15: yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] R17: yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo] R19: yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo, [kl, yo, k3, sll k2tog psso, k3, yo]
