KenTop-DownSweater By Vicki Johnson September 2015/Revised February 16, 2016
This is a simple top-down sweater for Ken dolls or similar size. The directions are exactly the same whether using fingering-weight yarn or size 5 crochet thread, just the hook size changes. Size 10 thread may work as well, but I haven't tried that yet, but it could be an option. The ribbing at the bottom of the body and sleeves could be optional. If you would rather, you could skip the ribbing and just add a couple of more rows. As usual please try it on your doll to see how it fits as you go along.
Materials:
Fingering-weight yarn and a Size 4 (2.00 mm) hook or Bernat Handicrafter # 5 and a Size 3 (2.10 mm) hook Four small safety pins for markers Snaps or velcro for back closing. The sweater on the left was made with Bernat Meadowspun ( a light fingering weight 3-ply). The sweater on the right was made with Brown Sheep Wildfoote (a fingering weight 4-ply) this yarn makes a dense fabric. The sweater in the middle was made with Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread # 5 (an acrylic thread). asure yardage but I would estimate that it takes about a he
Abbreviations:
Sc-singlecrochet ch-chain st(s) - stitch(es) slpst -slipstitch inc - increase (work 3 sc in one stitch) dec - decrease; work the next two sc sts together with one sc. Decreases one stitch. Gauge: Neckband should measure approximately 3/8" wide and 2-/" long with the fingering weight. With the Bernat Handicrafter I got 3/8" wide and 2-1/2" long. This may vary slightly depending on the brand yarn used. Just make sure the ribbing will stretch around the neck and overlap for a small snap. Directions starting with the neckband: The neckband is crochet ribbing. All sc sts will be worked in theback loop. Row 1: Ch 4; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (3 sts) Row 2 - 20: Ch 1; sc in each st across (3 sts) · Ch 1 and turn the neckband to work down the side; regular sc in the end of each row of ribbing. (20 sts) Directions beginning body: All rows will be turned at the end of each row (worked back and forth). With all rows the first sc will be in the stitch the ch 1 comes out of. When doing the 3 sc sts for the increase place a marker in the 2nd st. This will help insure the st count is accurate. All sc sts are worked normal for this section. ● Row 1: Ch 1; two sc in each st across. (40 sts) ● Row 2: Ch 1: sc in the first 6 sts; inc in next st; sc in the next 6 sts; .inc in the next st; sc in next 12 sts; inc in next st; sc in next 6 sts; inc in next st sc in the last 6 sts. (48 sts) ● Row 3: Ch 1: sc in the first 7 sts; inc in next st; sc in the next 8 sts; .inc in the next st; sc in next 14 sts; inc in next st; sc in next 8 sts; inc in next st sc in the last 7sts. (56 sts) Row 4: Ch 1: sc in the first 8 sts; inc in next st; sc in the next 10 sts; .inc in the next st; sc in next 16 sts; inc in next st; sc in next 10 sts; inc in next st sc in the last 8 sts. (64 sts) Row 5: Ch 1: sc in the first 9 sts; inc in next st; sc in the next 12 sts; .inc in the next st; sc in next 18 sts; inc in next st; sc in next 12 sts; inc in next st sc in the last 9 sts. (72 sts) · Row 6 - 7: Ch 1; sc in each st across. Move the markers up for each row. ● Row 8: Ch 1: sc in the first 11 sts (the 11th st should be where the first marker is) remove marker; ch 6 (these form the underarm stitches); skip all stitches to the 2nd marker, sc in the 2nd marked stitch and remove marker; sc in the next 21 sts (the 21st st should be where the third marker is) remove marker; ch 6; skip all stitches to the 4th marker, sc in the 4th marked stitch and remove marker; sc in the last 10 sts. ● Row 9: Ch 1; sc in each stitch and chain stitch across (56 sts) · Rows 10 - 18: Ch 1; sc in each st across. Row 19: Ch 1; sc in the first 10 sts; dec; sc in the next 6 sts; dec; sc in the next 16 sts; dec; sc in the next 6 sts; dec; sc in the last 10 sts (52 sts) Row 20: Ch 1; sc in the first 9 sts; dec; sc in the next 5 sts; dec; sc in the next 16 sts; dec; sc in the next 5 sts; dec; sc in the last 9 sts (48 sts) ● Rows 21 - 27: Ch 1; sc in each sts across. Directions Ribbed Border: All sc sts will be worked in the back loop. The ribbed border is attached to the body of the sweater as it is worked. All rows are turned after making the ch 1. Row 1: Ch 3, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in next sc; join with a slp st to the stitch the ch 3 comes out of (2 sc) ● Rows 2 - 3: These two rows are worked in what I like to think of as a set. Row 2 will be worked as Ch 1; sc in each st (2 sc) Then work Row 3: Ch 1; sc in each st (2 sc). Now this set of two rows will be joined to the body of the sweater by skipping one stitch of the body and joining with a slip st to the next stitch of the body. Repeat the set of Rows 2 - 3 to the end of the body. Faster Directions for Sleeve: Will be worked the same for each sleeve. The sleeves are worked in the round. · Row 1: Join yarn to 3rd stitch under the arm; ch 1 and sc in same st; sc in next 2 sts; sc together the last st under the arm and the 1st st of the upper arm; sc in the next 13 sts; sc together the last st of the upper arm and the 1st st of the underarm together; sc in last st; join. Ch 1 turn. (19 sts) · Row 2 -20: Sc in each stitch around; join; ch 1 turn ● Row 21: Sc in each st until there are two left; dec; join; ch 1 turn (18 sts) · Row 22: Sc in each stitch around; join; ch 1 turn ● Row 23: Sc in each st until there are two left; dec; join; ch 1 turn (17 sts) · Rows 24 - 26: Sc in each stitch around; join; ch 1 turn
Directions for Sleeve Ribbing:
The sleeve ribbing will be done exactly the same as the bottom ribbing of the body of the sweater except at the end after working approximately 7 sets skip the last two arm body stitches join the last row of ribbing together with the first row of ribbing with sc or cut yarn and sew the first and last row together. Fasten off. Overlap the back edges and sew on either snaps or velcro, weave in any ends, and you are done. Alternate option if you would like to work the sweater without a ribbed neckband, without a ribbed bottom, and would like the sweater a little more form fitting. I worked all the rows in the front loop which gives a thinner fabric. You don't have to do this, it just gives an extra Option.
Neckline:
Ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (20)
Body:
Follow the directions for the body up until row 12. Row 12: Skip down and work the directions for Row 19. Row13: Work thedirections for Row20. Rows 14-15: Sc in each st Row 16: Work a decrease row as follows: sc in 8 sts, dec; sc in 4 sts, dec; sc in 16 sts, dec; sc in 4 sts, dec; sc in 8 (44 sts) Rows 17-26: Sc in each st Rows 27: Worked an increase row as follows: sc in 8 sts, work 2 sc in the next st; sc in 4 sts, work 2 sc in the next st; sc in 16 sts, work 2 sc in the next st; sc in 4 sts, work 2 sc in the next st; sc in 8 sts (48 sts) Rows 28: sc across. Finish off. Sleeve Option without Ribbed bottom: You will still Ch 1 and turn at the end of each round. If you worked in the front loop of each stitch for the body, then I suggest doing the same for the sleeves just so the crochet fabric will be the same. The sleeves are worked in the round. Work the first 12 rows of the sleeve pattern. Row 13: Skip down and work the directions for Row 21(18) Row 14: Sc aroundRow 15: Work the directions for Row 23(17) Rows 16-18: Sc around Row 19: This will be one additional decrease row. Sc in each st until there are two left; dec; join (16) Rows 20-23: Sc around; finish off after Round 23 or however long or short you would like your sleeves to be. I worked 7 rows of the sleeve pattern for a short-sleeve sweater.
