Undine Shawl
A frilled garter stitch triangular shawl knit horizontally to show off self-striping yarn. The frill is knit as you go and has a picot edge and is formed with wrap-andturn rows. The shawl can be adapted for different weights and amounts of yarn. This pattern is intended for personal use only. Making items from this pattern for resale requires explicit written permission from the copyright holder, Deborah A. Cooke. Notes: This shawl is knit in garter stitch, with a frill border that is knit as you go. The border has a picot edge. The frilliness comes from wrap-and-turn short rows - because the shawl is worked in garter stitch, you don't need to pick up the wrapped stitches. You can just knit right over them, which makes this a good project for those who have not done Wrap-and-turn before. If you want the frill to be more frilly, you can work fewer full rows between the short rows - 6 rows, for example, instead of the 10 specified here. You could also add more short rows into the godet. This shawl can be knit to any size. Begin at one point, increase until your yarn is half gone, then decrease to finish the shawl. The halfway point is in the very center of a godet. Use bigger or smaller needles to get a fabric that you like. If you are using a self-striping yarn and want the two sides to mirror each other, you may have to fiddle with the point at which you join the yarn. For the sample shawl, I used two balls of Noro Kureyon Sock. The first had no knots and I knit until it was almost gone. I then joined the second ball, reversing the colour sequence so that the colours mirrored each other. Unfortunately, the second ball had five knots and I had to fiddle around to maintain the colour sequence. As a result, the mirroring of the colours isn't perfect.
Materials:
· two balls of Noro Kureyon Sock · 4.0mm needles - straight or circular, whichever you prefer. · a darning needle for sewing in the ends. Gauge: 5 sts to the inch and 8 rows to the inch, in garter stitch. Gauge isn't critical on this project, so long as you like the fabric you're getting Finished size: 33” at maximum width, 64"” across longest edge, gently blocked Abbreviations: K - knit P- purl Sl - slip YO - yarn over K2tog - knit 2 together K3tog - knit 3 together PSSO - pass slipped stitch over M1 - make one stitch SSK - slip the next two stitches knitwise and unworked to the right needle, move them back to the left needle, then knit them together through the back loops PM -- place marker w&t - wrap and turn (bring yarn between the two needles to front; move unworked stitch from left needle to right needle; take yarn between the two needles to the back; move the unworked stitch back to the left needle; turn the work. The yarn will be on the side closest to you. Pass the yarn between the needles again, so it's on the far side - then you'll be ready to knit again. Because this is worked in garter stitch, the wraps can be ignored on subsequent rows - just knit right past them.) Instructions: Set up: Cast on 3 stitches. Row 1 - K1, YO, K2 (4 stitches total) Row 2 and all even rows - Sl 1, K to end. Row 3 - Sl 1, YO, K2tog, M1, K1 (5 stitches total) Row 5 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K2, M1, K1 (6 stitches total) Row 7 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K3, M1, K1 (7 stitches total) Row 9 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K4, M1, K1 (8 stitches total) Row 11 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K5, M1, K1 (9 stitches total) Row 13 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K6, M1, K1 (10 stitches total) Row 15 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K7, M1, K1 (11 stitches total) Row 17 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K8, M1, K1 (12 stitches total) Row 19 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K9, M1, K1 (13 stitches total) Row 21 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K10, M1, K1 (14 stitches total) Row 23 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K11, M1, K1 (15 stitches total) Row 25 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K12, M1, K1 (16 stitches total) Row 27 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K12, PM, M1, K to end (17 stitches total) Row 29 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K12, slip marker, M1, K to end (18 stitches total) Row 31 - Repeat row 29 (19 stitches total) Row 33 - Repeat row 29 (20 stitches total) Row 35 - Repeat row 29 (21 stitches total) Now that the point of the shawl is completed, you will both increase the width of the shawl and begin to put godets in the border to make it ruffle. Increasing Width: Row 1 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K6, w&t Row 3 - S11, YO, K2tog, K8, w&t Row 5 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K10, w&t Row 7 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K8, w&t Row 9 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K6, w&t Row 11 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K12, slip marker, M1, K to end Row 13 - Repeat row 11 Row 15 - Repeat row 11 Row 17 - Repeat row 11 Row 19 - Repeat row 11 Repeat these twenty rows until nearing the halfway point of your yarn. It's easy to keep track of this pattern - there will be 5 garter stitch ridges in each godet and 5 garter stitch ridges between each godet. The midpoint of the shawl - i.e. the place at which you join your second ball of yarn - should be in a repeat of row 5. Work rows 1 - 4, join second ball of yarn, then work rows 5 to 10. From this point, you will continue with the godets while decreasing the shawl's Width. Decreasing Width: Row 1 - Sl 1, YO, K2tog, K12, slip marker, SSK, K to end Row 3 - Repeat row 1 Row 5 - Repeat row 1 Row 7 - Repeat row 1 Row 9 - Repeat row 1 Row 11 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K6, w&t Row 13 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K8, w&t Row 15 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K10, w&t Row 17 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K8, w&t Row 19 - S11, YO, K2tog, K6, w&t Continue until you SSK the last two stitches after the marker. (16 stitches total). This should be a repeat of row 9 in the decreasing pattern. Work row 10, removing the marker on the way. FinishingPoint: Row 1 - S1 1, YO, K2tog, K to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 (15 stitches total) Row 2 - S1 1, K to end Repeat these two rows 10 more times (5 stitches total) Row 13 - S1 1, YO, K3tog, K1 (4 stitches total) Row 15 - S1 1, YO K3tog (3 stitches) Row 17 - S1 1, K2tog, PSSO. Pull end through last stitch to bind off. Wash and block shawl. Sew in ends and wear.
