BANYAN LOVE baby or Lap Afghan by Margaret Maclnnis c. 2013
Aran or heavier worsted weights (if you have sport or DK weight, consider using it double), acrylic or wool (Plymouth Encore, Paton's Décor, Vanna's Choice, Cascade 220, RH SuperSaver) (600 grams, 800 grams, 900 grams) -probably generous allowance and depends greatly on your personal knitting tension and if you add extra rows. I would get one extra skein for insurance. Photo courtesy of tester Rebs16. Shown in 168 st version. Thank you to all testers ‘madstitcherl, ajsgramma, nitaknits' Gauge: 16 st/26 rows in 4 in/10 cm Finished size: 152 sts (136, 168, 184) makes a blanket about 38 (36, 42, 44) inches square if worked to gauge. Needles: Circular needle 29 to 60" long, size US 8 to 10 (5 to 6 mm), cable needle 4 stitch markers STITCHES KEY
Tutorial on all stitches can be found here
http: //www.ravelry.com/discuss/muggins-magic-hang0ut/2748898/1-25#2
PM: Place Marker at spot indicated
cn: cable needle : Right Side or show side/Wrong Side or non-show side garter: knit every row (2/2 PLC) 2/2 Purl Left Cross: Place 2 sts on cable needle to front, p2, then k2 from cn (2/2 PRC) 2/2 Purl Right Cross: Place 2 sts on cn to back, k2, then p2 from cn (2/1 PLC) 2/1 Purl Left Cross: Place 2 sts on cn to front, p1, then k2 from cn (2/1 PRC) 2/1 Purl Right Cross: Place 1 st on cn to back, k2, then p1 from cn (1/1 PLC) Purl Left Cross: Place 1 st on cn to front, p 1, then k 1 from cn (1/1 PRC) Purl Right Cross: Place 1 st on cn to back, k 1, then p1 from cn C4R: Cable four right: Place 2 sts on cn to back, k2, then k2 from cn C4L: Cable four left--Place 2 sts on cn to front, k2, then k2 from cn M1: Make One Stitch--An increase worked by lifting horizontal thread lying between needles and placing it onto left needle, then knit this new stitch through the back loop. Make sure the stitch is twisted or you will be left with a hole here. knit the knits and purl the purls: if the stitch you are working has a 'v’ at the base of it, knit it. If it has a purly gate across it at the base, purl it....I call this my Purly Gates method. k1b: knit one stitch in the back leg thereby twisting it slightly p2togtbl: purl two stitches together through the back legs. First, slip each stitch with the back leg leading to the right needle. Then slip each stitch back to the left needle, and purl the two tog. This is slightly different from the standard p2togtbl, but it works here. You can sub either and it really won't matter. Video on standard p2togtbl available here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJiHaLU-MBU
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 152 st (136, --, 168, 184) (if you want a bigger or smaller blanket, work additional or fewer stitches and repeats as indicated by italics and color matched numbers throughout suggest circling your size) Garter 16 (12, 18, 20) rows (knit every row), slipping the first st and purling the last st on each row for a chained edge. (The following row numbers start at 17, but of course, if you are doing the alternate sizes, the number is different---don't worry and just keep knitting) Row 17RS) sl 1, k150 (134, 166, 182), p1 Mark RIGHT SIDE with a piece of yarn or pin. Row 18WS) sl 1, k9, PM (p4, k4) 16 (14, 18, 20) times, p4, PM, k9, p1 Repeat Rows 17 and 18 until piece measures 13 (12, 14, 15) inches from garter border where it changes to pattern rows, ending with a Row 18 (write down how many you did because you'll need it later)
(The following row numbers start at 99, but you may have more or fewer rows than this depending on the size you chose) Row 99 RS) SI 1, k55 (47, 63, 71), PM, p40, PM, k55 (47, 63, 71), p1 Row 100 WS) Sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4, k2; k40; k2, (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4; k9, p1 v 101 RS) S1 1, k55 (47, 63, 71); p40; k55 (47, 63, 71), pl TIP: To keep the purls next to the left edge of the trees more stable and even, it is advisable to purl the first stitch after the tree trunk and all the cables through the back leg--not written in pattern though. Row 102 WS) Sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4, k2; K 12, p 4, k 8, p 4, k 12; k2, (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4; k9, p1 Row 103) Sl 1, k55 (47, 63, 71); p12, k4, p8, k4, p12; k55, (47, 63, 71), p1 Row 104) Same as ROW 102 Row 105) Same as ROW 103 Rows 106 to 116) Repeat R0WS 102 and 103, five more times; then ROW 102, one time Row 117) Sl 1, (47, 63, 71), k55; p12, M1, k 4, p 8, k 4, M1, p12; k55 (47, 63,71),p1 Row 118) Sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4, k2; k12, p5, k8, p5, k12, k2, (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4; k9, p1 Row 119) Sl 1, k55 (47, 63, 71); p12, k1, M1, k4, p8, k4, M1, k1, p12; k55 (47, 63, 71),p1 Row 120) Sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4, k2; k12, p6, k8, p6, k12; k2, (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4; k9, p1 Row 121) \*Sl 1, k55 (47, 63, 71);\* p10, 2/2 PRC, k4, M1, p8, M1, k4, 2/2 PLC, p10; \*k55 (47, 63, 71), p1\* Row 122) Sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4, k2; knit the knits and purl the purls; k2, (p4, k4) 5 (4, 6, 7) times, p4; k9, p1 Continue “in pattern’ on each side of the tree section, substituting the \* to \* from Row 121 on the odd rows, and repeat Row 122 for even rows. Hint: It is really easy to get confused by when you are knitting and purling the vertical columns on each side of the trees' block. If you are on the front (right) side, you are always knitting them!! If you are on the back (wrong) side, you are always knitting/purling/knitting, even if you \*see' ridges. (turn and look at the front side to guide you) Row 123) \* to \*; p8, 2/2 PRC, p2, k4, M1, k1, p8, k1, M1, k4, p2, 2/2 PLC, p8; \* to \* Row 124) Repeat Row 122 Row 125) \* to \*; p6, 2/2 PRC, p4, k4, 2/2 PLC, p4, 2/2 PRC, k4, p4, 2/2 PLC, p6; \* to \* Row 126) Repeat Row 122 Row 127) \* to \*; p5, 2/1 PRC, p5, 2/1 PRC, k2, p2, 2/2 PLC, 2/2 PRC, p2, k2, 2/1 PLC, p5, 2/1 PLC, p5; \* to \* Row 128) Repeat Row 122 Row 129) \* to \*; P5, k2, p5, 2/1 PRC, p1, 2/1 PLC, p3, C4R, p3, 2/1 PRC, p1, 2/1 PLC, p5, k2, p5; \* to \* Row 130) Repeat Row 122 Row 131) \* to \*; p4, PRC, PLC, p3, 2/1 PRC, p3, 2/1 PLC, 2/2 PRC, 2/2 PLC, 2/1 PRC, p3, 2/1 PLC, p3, PRC, PLC, p4; \* to \* Row 132) Repeat Row 122 Row 133) \* to \*; p3, PRC, p2, k1b, p3, k2, p5, C4L, p4, C4L, p5, k2, p3, k1b, p2, PLC, p3; \* to \* Banyan Love Page 5 Row 134) Repeat Row 122 Row 135) \* to \*; (p2, PRC) 3 times, PLC, p3, 2/1 PRC, 2/1 PLC, p2, 2/1 PRC, 2/1 PLC, p3, PRC, (PLC, p2) 3 times; \* to \* Row 136) Repeat Row 122 Row 137) \* to \*; p5, (PRC, p2) twice, k1b, p3, k2, p2, 2/1 PLC, 2/1 PRC, p2, k2, p3, k1b, (p2, PLC) twice, p5; \* to \* Row 138) Repeat Row 122 Row 139) \* to \*; p4, (PRC, p2) 3 times, PRC, PLC, p2, C4R, p2, PRC, (PLC, p2) 3 times, PLC, p4; \* to \* Row 140) Repeat Row 122 Row 141) \* to \*; p3, PRC, p6, (PRC, p2) twice, k1b, p2, k 4, p2, k1b, (p2, PLC) twice, p6, PLC, p3; \* to \* Row 142) Repeat Row 122 Row 143) \* to \*; p2, p2tog, p6, (PRC, p2) 3 times, C4R, (p2, PLC) 3 times, p6, p2togtbl, p2; \* to \* Row 144) Repeat Row 122 Row 145) \* to \*; p8, PRC, p6, PRC, p1, 2/2 PRC, 2/2 PLC, p1, PLC, p6, PLC, p8; \* to \* Row 146) Repeat Row 122 Row 147) \* to \*; p7, p2tog, p6, PRC, p1, PRC, PLC, p2, PRC, PLC, pl, PLC, p6, p2togtbl, p7;\* to \* Row 148) Repeat Row 122 ROW 149) \* to \*, P13, 1/1 PRC, p1, 1/1 PRC, p2, k1b, p2, k1b, p2, 1/1 PLC, p1, 1/1 PLC, p13; \* to \* Banyan Love Page 6
Row 150) Repeat Row 122
Row 151) \* to \*; p12, p2tog, p1, (PRC, p2) twice, PLC, p2, PLC, p1, p2togtbl, p12; \* to \* Row 152) Repeat Row 122 Row 153) \* to \*; p17, PRC, p4, PLC, p17; \* to \* Row 154) Repeat Row 122 Row 155) \* to \*; p17, k1b, p6, k1b, p17; \* to \* Row 156) Repeat Row 122 Row 157) \* to \*; p16, p2tog, p6, p2togtbl, p16; \* to \* Row 158) Repeat Row 122 Row 159) \* to \*; p40; \* to \* Row 160) Repeat Row 122 Row 161RS) sl 1, k150 (134, 166, 182), p1 Row 162WS) sl 1, k9; (p4, k4) 16 (14, 18, 20) times, p4l; k9, p1 Repeat Rows 161and 162 (same number of times you repeated Rows 17 and 18 at the beginning), ending with a 161st row. (HINT-- if you can't figure out how many rows to do or you did not count them, count the 'ridges? and multiply by two) Work 15 (11, 17, 19) rows of garter, and bind off in garter on the next row. Finishing Weave in ends. Blocking acrylic: normally, I do not advise any form of heat on acrylic. However, if you are careful, it can really help smooth out the little bumps and lumps. I like to wash in a bit of warm soapy water, and rinse well, drying flat and pinning square. Then take a steam iron, and putting a towel underneath the afghan, carefully steam gently FROM THE BACK, holding iron at least 2 inches away and not keeping the steam on any one section more than a half a second, and patting into shape. Allow to dry flat again.
Photo courtesy of ajsgramma on Ravelry
