Rosina Tunic Knitting Pattern: Detailed Instructions for Sizes S to XXL with Charts and Abbreviations

Rosina Tunic ?

Yarn, needles, accessories:

300 g (S/M), 450 g (L/XL1), 550 g (XL2/XXL) Fingering yarn (original yarn: Dibadu - Seda Grande or Seda Desierto Grande), 420 m per 100 g skein, circular needles 3.0 or 3.25 mm, 40, 60 and 80 cm long,

Sizes

Gauge needle 3.0 = 30 sts and 40 rows unblocked Gauge needle 3.0 = 28 sts and 36 rows blocked The intermediate sizes result in a longer raglan and a widerbottom edge. In order to determine the correct size, please take the bust measure and the circumference at the upper arm.

All measures after washing and blocking. I calculated with an additional width of 2 cm based on the actual bust measure.

Basics

For knitting the yoke, increases are made by M1L and M1R, i. e. a left-slanting or right-slanting increase knitted into the horizontal strand between the stitches. These increases are made after the neck border in each round of the front and back, until you have reached the respective width between the stitch markers SM1 and SM2, as well as between SM3 and SM4. They always slant towards the middle of the F and B, see image below.

Instruction with images HERE M1L - left-slanted increase = make one left: insert the left needle into the horizontal strand from front to back, then knit this stitch through the back loop; the new stitch leans to the left. M1R - right-slanted increase = make one right: insert the left needle into the horizontal strand from back to front, knit this stitch; the new stitch leans to the right. This method results in a bow form of the raglan; any possible creases will vanish after blocking and during wearing. The number of stitches for the arms - 63 (S/M/L1), 73 (L2/XL/XXL) = 6 times (S/M/L1), 7 times (L2/XL/XXL) arm chart + p3) always remains the same!

Part 1 - yoke

Cast on 122 (S/M/L1), 142 (L2/XL/XXL) stitches with needle 3.0 - 40 cm (or a set of DPNs) for the neck border, close the round with a purl stitch, set SM1. Work 61 stitches (S/M/L1), 71 stitches (L2/XL/XXL) as follows: p1, k1 tbl alternatingly, then set SM3 and again p1, k1 tbl for another 61 (S/M/L1), 71 (L2/XL/XXL) stitches; in the middle of front and back you now have 2 purl stitches with a SM in between. Repeat 1st round 12 times! Now you work 3 set up rounds:

Beginning of yoke chart for sizes S1, M3, L1, XL1, XL2

1st round: slip SM1, M1 tbl, set SM2, \*p1, k9\*, repeat 5 times (S1/M3/L1), 6 times (XL1/XL2) between \*\*, p1, slip SM3, M1 tbl, set SM4, \*p1, k9\*, repeat 5 times (S1/M3/L1), 6 times (XL1/XL2) between \*\*,，p1. (Increase by 2 sts)= 124 sts (S1/M3/L1), 144 sts (XL1/XL2) 2nd round: before the first SM1, M1L, slip SM1, k1, slip SM2, M1R, work 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2) chart A- round 1, p1, M1L, slip SM3, k1, slip SM4, M1R, work 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2) chart A - round 1, p2. (Increase by 4 sts) = 128 sts (S1/M3/L1), 148 sts (XL1/XL2) 3rd round: slip SM1, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM2, p1, repeat chart A- round 2 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2), p2, slip SM3, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM4, p1, repeat chart A- round 2 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2), p2. (Increase by 4 stitches) = 132 sts (S1/M3/L1), 152 sts (XL1/XL2) Repeat chart A as described in the following. For increases and numbers of stitches please see table attached to the yoke chart.

For symbols please see annex. In even round numbers, work the stitches of the chart as they appear, knit the yarn overs. Increase in each round of chart A = 28 sts = 10 cm Increase in every other round of chart A = 14 sts =5 cm

Yoke chart A for sizes S1, M3, L1, XL1, XL2

Table of increases and number of stitches

Beginning of yoke chart A0-A for sizes S2, M1, M2, L2, XXL

1st round: slip SM1, M1 tbl, set SM2, \*p1, k9\* repeat 5 times (S2/M1/M2), 6 times (L2/XXL) between \*\*, p1, slip SM3, M1 tbl, set SM4, \*p1, k9\*, repeat 5 times (S2/M1/M2), 6 times (L2/XXL) between \*\*, p1. (Increase by 2 sts) = 124 sts (S2/M1/M2), 144 sts (L2/XXL) 2nd round: before the first SM1, M1L, slip SM1, k1, slip SM2, M1R, repeat chart A0 - round 1 6 times (S2/M1/M2), 7 times (L2/XXL), p1, M1L, slip SM3, k1, slip SM4, M1R, repeat chart A0 - round 1 6 times (S2/M1/M2), 7 times (L2/XXL), p2. (Increase by 4 sts) = 128 sts (S2/M1/M2), 148 sts (L2/XXL) 3rd round: slip SM1, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM2, p1, repeat chart A0 - round 2 6 times (S2/M1/M2), 7 times (L2/XXL), p2, slip SM3, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM4, p1, repeat chart A0 - round 2 6 times (S2/ M1/M2), 7 times (L2/XXL), p2. (Increase by 4 sts) = 132 sts (S2/M1/M2), 152 sts (L2/XXL)

Yoke chart A0/A for sizes S2, M1, M2, L2, XXL

For symbols please see annex. In even round numbers, work the stitches of the chart as they appear, knit the yarn overs. Work chart Ao only once, and then proceed with chart A! Increase in each round of chart A0 = 15 sts = 4.5 cm Increase in each round of chart A = 28 sts = 10 cm Increase in every other round of chart A = 14 sts = 5 cm Table of increases and numbers of stitches

When this set-up of the sweater has been accomplished, proceed by increasing for the raglan (M1R and M1L) in each round “between" the SMs of the front and back (i.e. after SM1 and before SM2, as well as after SM3 and before SM4). The stitches of M1R and M1L always lean towards the center of the F/B, see image above.Knit all the increased stitches. In even rounds, work the stitches of the chart as they appear, and knit the yarn overs. In such a way, the raglan is bordered by 2 purl stitches and the SMs at its beginning and its end, “between" which you increase 4 sts per round for the front and back. In round 8 of the chart you can change to a 60 cm round needle. Ind the increases, please see the respective tables and the following descriptions.

Increases yoke chart for all sizes

SizeS1 Repeat chart A 4 times and work increases in each round = 111 sts

Sizes S2/M1

Work chart A0 once, repeat chart A 3 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again and work increases only every other round! =111 sts SizeM3 Repeat chart A 4 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again and work increases only every other round! = 125 sts

Size L1

Repeat chart A 5 times working increases in each round = 139 sts Size L2 Work chart A0 once, repeat chart A 4 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again and work increases only every other round! = 139 sts Size XL1 Repeat chart A 5 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again and work increases only every other round! = 153 sts Size XL2 Repeat chart A 5 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again and work increases only every other round! =153 sts Size XXL Work chart A0 once, repeat chart A 4 times working increases in each round. Repeat chart A again twice and work increases only every other round!=153sts The shoulder yoke is thus worked up to 4 (S1), 5 (S2/S3/M1/M2/M3/L1), or 6 (L2/XL/XXL) "points" of the chart. We recommend trying the fit of the yoke already after 3 - 4 repeats of the chart. The last round before spliting up the arms and the body is an even round, i. e. round 14 of chart A; knit all the yarn overs. Note: in this last round there aren't any increases for sizes S2, M1, M2, L2, and xXL. The respective numbers of stitches for the finished yoke as well as the increases below the arm are listed in the attached table and in part 2.

Part 2 - Body and Border

Set-up row: Remove SM, knit all the stitches of the back, cast on 3 (S/M/L/XL1), 8 (XL2/XXL) new stitches, set lateral SM, cast on 4(S/M/L/XL1), 9(XL2/XXL) stitches, place 63 sts (S/M/XL1), 73 sts (L2/XL2/XXL) for one arm onto a stitch holder, knit all the stitches of the front, cast on 3 (S/M/L/XL1), 8 (XL2/XXL) sts, set SM, cast on 4 (S/M/L/XL1), 9 (XL2/XXL) new stitches, place 63 (S/M/L1), 73 (L2/XL/XXL) stitches for the other arm onto a stitch holder, and close the round. Table: number of stitches before and after finishing the yoke, arm increases, lateral decreases

Now knit in the round in stockinette stitch for 4 cm (S), 5 cm (M/L1), 6 cm (L2/XL1), 8 cm (XL2/ XXL), then begin with the lateral increases in the following way: \*knit until 2 stitches before the lateral SM, M1R, k1, slip SM, k2, M1L\*, repeat once between \*\*. Repeat these increases of 4 sts per round as indicated. If there is an increase of only 2 sts per round, the decrease is worked before the first and after the second lateral SM. Depending on the desired length and width of the tunic you can adapt this according to your wishes. ount for the length +/- 12cm of the lace border when calculating the length. Table of lateral increases for all sizes

Lateral increases all sizes:

Size S1

Size L1

Increase from 236 sts to 260 sts = 24 sts: increase by 6x4 sts every 12th round. Increase from 292 sts to 320 sts = 28 sts: increase by 7x4 sts every 12th round.

Size L2

SizeS2 Increase from 236 sts to 270 sts = 34 sts: increase by 7x4,1x2 sts every 8th round. Increase from 292 sts to 330 sts = 38 sts: increase by 9x4, 1x2 sts every 10th round.

Size M1

Size XL1

Increase from 236 sts to 280 sts = 44 sts: Increase by 11x4 sts every 7th round.

Size M2

Increase from 320 sts to 340 sts = 20 sts: increase by 5x4 sts every 17th round.

Size XL2

Increase from 264 sts to 290 sts= 26 sts: increase by 6x4, 1x2 sts every 12th round.

Size M3

Increase from 340 sts to 350 sts = 10 sts: increase by 2x4, 1x2 sts every 20th round.

Size XXL

Increase from 264 sts to 300 sts= 36 sts: increase by 9x4 sts every 9th round. Increase from 340 sts to 360 sts = 20 sts: increase by 5x4 sts every 18th round. If you multiply the increases according to the desired width, you will also need more yarn. If possible, try on the tunic from time to time; for this purpose, use long round needles for the stitches of the arms and of the body. When the lateral increases are finished, the number of stitches must always be dividable by 10! When you have reached a length of 26 cm (S), 27 cm (M1/M2), 28 cm (M3), 30 cm (L1), 32 cm (L2/XL1), 34 cm (XL2/XXL) - measured from the beginning of the body below the arm -, begin with chart B for the border. The border measures 9 cm unblocked and 12 cm blocked. Chart B Rosina border body all sizes

In round 25 the chart increases by 2 stitches, because we work 2 yarn overs without the respective decreases. Beginning with round 33, the chart starts with a ktbl stitch. Also beginning with round 33, the number of stitches of the border chart increases by 2 sts per repeat, resulting from the double-knitted yarn over. This is marked by the gray background in the chart; see section of border chart B. In round 43, we work a simple yarn over which is PURLED in the following even round. Bitte beachten, in dieser letzten Rd. wird fir die GroBen S2, M1, M2, L2, XXL nicht mehr zugenommen. Der Tabelle im Anhang und in Teil2 sind die jeweiligen Maschenzahlen nach dem Beenden der Passe sowie die Maschenzunahmen unter dem Arm zu entnehmen.

Section border chart B

Part3- Arms

Place the stitches for the arms on a short round needle (40 cm) or a set of DPN Pick up and knit 7 (S/M/L/XL1), 17 (XL2/XXL) sts from the stitches which have been cast on below the arms, k1, set SM for the beginning of the round, and work round 1 of chart A over the remaining stitches until the end of the round. "Insert" the picked up stitches as the 7th (S/M/L/XL1) or 7th and 8th (XL2/XXL) repeat of the chart and close for knitting in the round. For sizes S1/S2, we work a small "gusset" below the arm over one repeat of the chart - (Z) chart A2. It makes the part below the arm more comfortable to wear and can also be worked by all knitters whose upper arms are slimmer than indicated in the table of sizes. If you wish a slimmer lower arm, you can knit the chart for the lower arm worked over the picked up stitches until you reach the elbow. Then decrease this chart according to the gusset chart A2 and continue the lower arm over 61 stitches. Chart A3 is a chart increased by 2 purl stitches for more width at the upper arm; you have to pick up 9 sts instead of 7 sts from the cast on stitches below the arm. In such a way, you can adapt the width of the arms according to your personal wishes. In round 13 of the gusset chart A2, set back the SM to the beginning of the round again. Number of stitches for the arms: 60 (S1/S2), 70 (M1/M2/L1), 80 (L2/XL1), 90 (XL2/XXL).

Table number of stitches and increases for arms

Repeat chart A until you have reached the desired arm length - for half arms 7 times (S), 8 times (M), 9 times (L/XL1), 10 times (XL2/XXL), and then work chart A1 once for the border. Beginning with round 7, the numbers of stitches of the border chart A1 increases by 2 sts per repeat, resulting from the double-knitted yarn over. This is marked by the gray background in the chart. The double-knitted yarn overs result in a ruffled border of the arm. If you prefer a normal cuff, you can simply knit/purl the yarn overs. (nit the second arm in the same way. Work an elastic bind off or a crochet bind off Soak your garment, squeeze excess water, and block it - excluding the arms! Chart A arm and A1 border for all sizes, from round 7(A1) rounds start with ktbl

In round 15, we knit a simple yarn over which is PURLED in the following round.

Section arm border chart A1

Chart A2 gusset (Z) for sizes S1/S2

Arm chart A3 for increasing the arm circumference by +/- 2 cm

.! The purl stitch at the beginning of the round and at the end of the round can be purled together with the following purl stitch at the height 11of theelbow.

Annex?

Abbreviations

M1L - make one left, insert the left needle into the horizontal strand from front to back, then knit this stitch through the back loop; the new stitch leans to the left. Instruction with images HERE M1R - make one right , insert the left needle into the horizontal strand from back to front, knit this stitch; the new stitch leans to the right. Instruction with imagesHERE body - front and back SM - stitch marker St/sts - stitch/stitches p1 - purl 1 k1 - knit 1 s1 - slip 1 as if to knit yo - yarn over rd - round B -back F - front ktbl - knit through back loop rep - repeat Z - gusset, extra chart for smaller or larger arm circumference

Chart explanation

purl1 knit1 O yarn over O purl yarn over ssk = slip slip knit: slip 2 sts one after another from left needle to right needle as if to knit, slip back to left needle together, then knit these 2 sts together tbl / k2tog = knit 2 sts together 入 s1, k2tog, then pull the slipped st over + ktbl = knit through back loop Yarn over which is worked doubly in the following round. Either k1, p1 “into" the yo, or p1, k1, depending on the stitches before and after the yo. Work p1, k1 if you have worked k1 before the yo, or k1, p1 if the next st is k1; this method results in a neat ribbing of the border. In even rounds, the knit stitches are worked as ktbl! As a consequence, the number of stitches will increase; this is not explicitly indicated in the chart! place holder, no sts increase round, number of sts increases by 2 In even rounds, work sts as they appear, i. e. knit the yos Table: sizes, measures, numbers of stitches, increases arms and body

Yoke charts

Armchart A/A1

Border chart B

Section border chart B

Modifications

For sizes S1, M3, L1, XL1, XL2 it is possible to work a different neck in lace pattern A0 if you like a solution a little wider at the neckline. Cast on 120 sts (S1/M3/L1), 140 sts (X1L/XL2), close the round, and set SM1. Then purl 3 rds. One setup round: Slip SM1, repeat 12 times (S1/M3/L1), 14 times (XL1/XL2) \*p1, k9\*. In the following round, repeat chart A0 12 times (S1/M3/L1), 14 times (XL1/XL2) per round. Work chart AO up to round 8, and then begin with the yoke according to chart A. Beginning of yoke, transition to Chart A rds 9 - 22 1 st rd: setup round: Work up to SM1, M1L, slip SM1, k1, set SM2, M1R, ssk, k2, yo, k1,yo, k2, k2tog, then repeat chart A - rd1 - 5 times (S1/M3/L1), 6 times (XL1/XL2), M1L, set SM3, k1, set SM4, M1R, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, repeat chart A - rd1- 5 times (S1/M3/L1), 6 times(XL1/XL2), end with p1. 2nd round: Slip SM1, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM2, repeat chart A rd 2 - 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2), p1, slip SM3, M1L, k1, M1R, slip SM4, repeat chart A rd 2 - 6 times (S1/M3/L1), 7 times (XL1/XL2), p1. Complete chart A and repeat increases in each round of the front and back up to the desired width between the stitch markers (SM1 and SM2 as well as SM3 and SM4). Each round increases the number of sts by 4. The increases always lean towards the center of the front and back, see image 1. Work chart A up to the desired length of the yoke, make additional stitches for front and back in each round as indicated.

Work chart A with increases as indicated.Work chart A0 once without increases. Complete the yoke as indicated and continue with the sweater pattern. The arms are worked over 61 sts (S1/M3/L1), 71 sts (XL1/XL2); pick up and knit 9 or 19 sts below the arm instead of 7 or 17, and adapt the lateral increases as you wish.

Notice

My special thanks.for the English translation of this pattern goes to PetraSchulz www.sprachenservice-schulz.com It is due to Petra's commitment that the Rosina pattern may now also be a "challenge" to the creativity of English speaking knitters. Bredia has provided us with a detailed video for this pattern, where she explains all the steps of the pattern, as well as the increases M1L and M1R. Thank you very much! For the video, click HERE. HERE is Bredja's channel. A tutorial including photos of the diferent parts of the pattern can be found in the blog FadenStille A gallery with the finished garments made according to this pattern is HERE.

Project gallery on Ravelry

Thank you very much also to all the Rosina knitters who undertook the first “Rosina journey" with me and who have tested and improved this pattern with patience, humor, and perseverance. Thanks to "Gartendrossel" for the beautiful blogpost and photo.

This pattern is free of charge for private use, copyright by FadenStille2014 Website: http://fadenstille.blogspot.fr/