Some Other Spring By Josie MacGregor
Sample 1
Materials:
420-550 yards of fingering or light fingering yarn (cross-hatch short rows will require more yardage than gartershort rows) 4.0 mm circular knitting needle (US size 6) 3.75 mm circular knitting needle (US size 5) Either a 5mm crochet hook (US H) or 5mm (US size 8) circular needles for cast on This crescent shaped shawl is designed to be worked up quite quickly. I needed a quick gift for my friend Eves, and I remembered a lovely conversation we'd had about gardening. Being as it's a vine lace pattern, and I originally knit it in a jungle green, it seemed fitting to follow the theme, and name it after my favorite Billie Holliday song. It is knit in one piece from the bottom up, and contains two options for both the lace and the short rows - you can mix and match whichever way you please. The vine lace pattern is simple to knit, and easily memorized. It also creates a scalloped edge, eliminating the need for a separate pattern to create one. The decreases appear rapidly; this helps create the crescent shape without disturbing the lace pattern. A very big “thank you" to my test knitter Cheryl, Marta and SK Kozinski for checking this pattern thoroughly for me. @ Copyright Josie MacGregor 2012 Note: it is important to have a very loose cast on for the scalloped edging. I found the crochet cast on method to work best, but a lace cast on with a needle two sizes larger than the one you will knit with will also achieve the same effect. Likewise, it is very helpful to drop your needle one size when switching from the lace section to the short rows in order to accentuate the crescent shaping. Gauge is not critical with this pattern - just choose a needle size you are happy with, and remember to adjust the other needle sizes accordingly. Option 1 for the lace will use slightly more yarn and yield a bigger finished project than option 2, if you use the same number of repeats. The garter stitch short rows will use less yarn than the cross-hatch short rows, and will be slightly more shallow. My first sample used 520 yards of light fingering (Madelinetosh Merino Light), and measured approximately 60x15. This was lace option 1 with garter short rows. My second sample used 475 yards of light fingering, and measured approximately 54x16. This was lace option 1 with cross-hatch short rows. My third sample used 340 yards of fingering, and measured approximately 48x14. This was lace option 2 with cross-hatch short rows. My test knitter's sample used about 420 yards of fingering.
A few tips:
If you don't like using stitch markers, you can keep track of where you are by watching the decreases: on row 1, the decreases from the previous lace row will fall under the SSK, on row 3, the decreases will fall under theK2tog. If you are not sure you will have enough yarn for your short rows, place a lifeline before starting, so you can rip back easily - you could substitute a complimentary color in its place. Feel free to fudge the last few rows on the short rows and knit a few extra stitches on each side - my test knitter and I both did. Just remember to stay in pattern if you are doing the cross-hatch short rows. This pattern is easily adjusted for size - to make it wider or narrower, simple add or subtract multiples of 11 for lace option 1, or multiples of 9 for lace option 2. To make deeper or shallower, simply work more or fewer repeats of the four-row lace chart.
| Key: | |
| Knit k (RS) Knit (W5) Purl | SK2P {R5] 5lip K2tog P550 (w5) Slip purl2 tog P55o Slip Slip Knit |
| Knit 2 Together k2tog (RS) Knit 2 stitches together (WS) Purl 2 Together Purl | ssk (RS} slip, slip, knit slipped sts together (wS] slip, slip, purl slipped sts together No Stitch |
| P (RS) Purl (wS) Knit | (RS} No Stitch (wS) No Stitch |
For Lace Option 1: Using either method mentioned above, cast on 281 stitches.
Using 4mm needles, work vine lace chart one 15 times (60 rows)
| 17 | 16 | 15 | 14 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 6 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 5 | 432 | 1 | ||||
| 寸 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 2- | ||||||||||||||||||
| 0 | 1 |
Work vine lace chart two 1 time
Written Instructions For Vine Lace:
Cast on 281 stitches
Vine Lace Chart One (work 15 times)
Row 1: k4, \*k1, YO, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, YO, k2\*, k2 Row 2: k2, purl to last two stitches, k2 Row 3: k4, \*YO, K2, ssk, k2tog, k2, YO, k3\*, k2 Row 4: k2, purl to last two stitches, k2 Row 1: k4, \*k3, ssk,k2tog, k4\*, k2 Row 2: k2, purl to last two stitches, k2 Row 3: k4, \*k2, slip1, k2tog, psso, k4\*, k2 Row 4: k2, purl to last two stitches, k2 @ Copyright Josie MacGregor 2012
For Lace Option 2: Using Either of the methods mentioned above, cast on 229 stitches
Work Alternate Vine Lace Chart One 15 times (60 Rows)
Work Alternate Vine Lace Chart Two 1 Time:
Written Instructions For Alternate Lace Chart:
Cast on 229 stitches Alternate Vine Lace Chart One (work 15 times) Row 1: K2, \*K1,YO, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, YO\*, K2 Row 2: K2, Purl to last two stitches, K2 Row 3: K2, \*YO, K2, SSK, K2Tog, K2, YO, K1\*, K2 Row 4: K2, Purl to last two stitches, K2 Alternate Vine Lace Chart 2 (work one time) Row 1: K2, \*K3, SSK, K2Tog, K2\*, K2 Row 2: K2, Purl to last two stitches, K2 Row 3: K2, \*K2, Slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, K2\*, K2 Row 4: K2, Purl to last two stitches, K2 ① Copyright Josie MacGregor 2012
A close up of Lace Option 1
A close up of Lace Option 2
Switch to 3.75mm needles, and begin short rows (wrap turn not necessary)
For Garter StitchShort Rows: Row 1: K95, turn (Center stitch is 91, knit 4 stitches past center stitch) Row 2: Place Marker (PM), k9, turn Row 3: PM, knit to marker, Remove Marker (RM), k4 , turn Row 4: PM, k to marker, RM, k4, PM, turn Continue working rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been knit, ending on row 4. For Cross-Hatch Short Rows (2from2: knit two stitches together through the front and back): Set up row 1: K87(knit to four stitches before center stitch), PM, (2from2)x4, k1, turn Set up row 2: PM, p9, RM, p4, turn Row 1: PM, k1, \*(2from2) to marker\*, RM, (2from2)x2, turn Row 2: PM, purl to marker, RM, purl 4, turn Row 3: PM, \*(2from2)\* end 1 stitch before marker, place this stitch on the right hand needle, RM, transfer stitch back to left hand needle, (2from2)x2, k1, turn Row 4: PM, purl to marker, RM, purl 4, turn Work set up rows 1 and 2 once. Work rows 1-4 until all stitches are knit, ending on a purl row. Bind off as follows: K2, \*transfer 2 stitches back to left hand needle, knit together through back loop, k1\*. Secure final stitch, weave in ends, soak and block.
