Sally's Sockettes
Sally was an avid golfer and a favorite customer who appreciated and encouraged both my knitting and sewing career by contracting my talents for much of her wardrobe. Every time I knit a pair of socks like these...I remember her bubbly personality, patience, and appreciation of the hard work that goes into custom knitting and clothing. Sally passed away in 1998 from brain cancer, but will always be remembered and thanked for her support with this pattern. These sockettes were frequently made in either cotton or wool --either handspun or commercial yarns. Sally preferred the wool even in hot weather for their wicking ability. She said she never came away from a round with sweaty, wet feet. I always reinforced the ribbing, heels and toes for her with either Wooly Nylon, a matching acrylic yarn or elastic sewing thread. \*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*
Yarn Size:
Fingering weight of any type and small amount of elastic sewing thread or wooly nylon sewing thread. Yarn Quantity: 2 one ounce skeins ( I wind mine into center pull balls).
Needles:
One set each of size US1 and US2 DP--either 4 or 5 depending on your knitting preferences. If you choose 5 needles, I would split the instep stitches onto two needles and then keep the side/heel sts on the other two needles--making 16sts on each needle. For these directions, I will be writing for 4 needles . Guage: 8 sts/inch and 9 rows/inch
Abbreviations:
CO=Cast On EOR=End Of Row K=Knit P=Purl St(s)=Stitch(es) PSSO=Pass Slipped Stitch Over Sl=Slip SSK=Slip Slip Knit (knit the two slipped stitches together) R=Row Tog=Together P/U=Pick Up N=Needle
To Begin:
Using the smaller size one needles--Cast on 64 sts onto one needle. I use the cable cast on method going down into the stitch instead of in back of it. This make an even stretchy edge. Divide sts on needles as follows: N1=16sts N2=32sts N3=16sts Join by slipping the first stitch from N1 to N3 and bring over the original first stitch from N3 to N1--being careful not to twist the needles during the process so the edge stays straight.
Ribbing:
Join elastic or wooly nylon and work stranded together as one for entire rib. K1, P1 to EOR. Work rib for approx. 3/4 to 1 inch. Break off your stretchy thread about 1 inch and make sure it is in the back of the work. Weave in on the next round. Change to size 2 needles and knit all stitches in one round. K16 sts 0n N1 K32 sts on N2--move them to a stitch holder or just leave on DP depending on how slippery your needles are. (TIP: for slippery needles, I just put either a small rubber band around on the tip or one of those smaller rubber tip covers on either end of the DP). K16 sts on N3 and onto the same needle K16 sts from N1 You should now have all your work on 2 DP needles or 1 DP needle and a stitch holder. Instep=32sts Heel=32sts
Heel:
R1=P32 stS R2=\*K1, Sl 1,\* repeat to EOR ending with a K1 Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 2 inches, ending with a R2. Turn Heel: P18, P2tog, P1,turn Sl 1,K5, Sl 1,K1,psso, K1,turn Sl 1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn Sl 1, K7, Sl 1, K1,psso,K1,turn S1 1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn Continue working in same manner 1 st more with each turn until all stitches have been worked. You should end with a K row and have 18 sts on the needle. P/U and K 15 sts on side left side of heel piece with the same needle (N1). N2= K all sts of instep N3= P/U and K 15 sts from right side of heel and the first 9 sts from N1 Needle stitch count: N1=24sts N2=32sts N3=24sts \*\*Starting at center back of heel... Shape Heel Gusset: Round 1= N1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 N2: K all sts across N3: K1, SSK, K to EOR Round 2= Knit all sts \*\*\*Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 14 sts remaining on N1 and N3.
Foot Body:
K all sts and rounds until measurement equals length of foot less 2 inches. Shape Toe: Round 1= N1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 N2: SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 N3: K1, SSK, K to EOR. Round 2= K all sts. \*\*\*Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 4 sts on N1 and N3, and 10 sts on N2--end knitting at end of N1. Put all sts from N1 and N2 on one needle. Break off yarn leaving about 16 inches to weave sts together. Holding both needles side by side--either graft/weave sts together for an invisible seam toe or close with a three needle bind off to form a chain of sts on toe edge. Steam lightly to block.
I-Cord Bow Tie:
With 2 DP needles CO and knit 4 sts. Make an I-Cord of about 3 inches in length and tie off--weave ends in. Fold in half and stitch to back of sockette close to the original CO join with your Co ends. Tie in loose overhand knot. This \*tie\* serves to keep socks from slipping down into your shoe during heavy activity by hanging over the back edge of the heel of your shoe. It is cute also in contrasting colors to match your outfits.
Optional Suggestions:
I also have taken a small crochet hook and put a simple picot crochet edging around the sock in matching color or contrast color . Contrasting heel and toes to match I-Cord and Edging would also be a nice addition to the sock. ①Sheri Smith/Spin2Knit 2000 All rights reserved. Email if you have any questions.
