BERNICE
I really enjoy the short stories of F Scott Fitzgerald, and I absolutely love the design of the Penguin hardback edition of his works, so the inspiration for this sock design is both visual and emotional in a way, and I feel that there is a definite Art Deco vibe about the way the lace curves over the twisted 2x2 rib. This sock is named after one of my favourite stories from the collection "Flappers and Philosophers", called "Bernice bobs her hair".
Size:
Since the repeat is fixed at 22 sts, unfortunately I could only provide one size, knitted with 66 sts. I would suggest you try and make any necessary adjustments by going up or down a needles size. I found the texture of the lace/rib to be virtually the same as stocking stitch, so if you generally use 64 or 66 sts for your socks you should be ok.
Material:
Precise amounts of yarn will always depend on the length of the leg and the size of the foot, but broadly speaking you should be ok with around 100 gr / 400 mtrs of sock yarn (4 ply / fingering weight).
Needle size:
2.5 mm or size needed to get the right dimensions. This design can equally be knit on circulars or DPN's, use what you are most comfortable with and what works best for you.
Further requirements:
Tapestry needle Stitch markers (although you could do it without if they irritate you)
Cuff:
Using your cast on method of choice, cast on 72 sts. Close to a round, taking care not to twist the sts. Rib: P1, [K1tbl, P2] to last 2 sts, K1tbl, P1 Work in this twisted 2x1 rib for as long as you prefer, my sample has 20 rounds. If you are uncomfortable starting your rounds with a purl stitch start with Kitbl and shift one stitch in the last cuff round to get the correct alingment.
Leg:
Work the decrease round 0 to get to 66 sts. Work the leg according to the left pattern chart, repeating the chart 3 times around the leg. Please note that, in order to perform the K3tog at the end of rounds 39, 45 and 51 you will need to use the very first st of that round. To achieve this, start the round by knitting this st onto your second needle, then start the round with the YO as shown. When you reach the end of the round, this first st will be part of the K3tog. f you would prefer a shorter leg, work the shorter chart on the right instea If you would prefer a longer leg, work the chart on the left to round 40, then work the chart on the right (without round 0). For even longer legs, the repeat is marked on the left design by a red rectangle. Work the remainder of the leg in plain stocking stitch until you have reached the desired length. Personally, I find it looks best if there is a substantial amount of stocking stitch before the heel, but that is your choice. I did 18 rounds plain.
Heel:
I have chosen an Eye of Partridge Heel, as I think the texture complements the lace well and doesn't fight with the 2x1 rib. If you want a more pronounced structure, you can slip the stitches knitwise, otherwise slip them purlwise for a more subtle pattern. I find it most convenient to work this on 2 DPNs, leaving the remaining sts parked on the circs. The heel is worked over the last 34 sts, leaving 32 sts for the instep., so turn the work to start with a WSrow. Row 1: Sl1, P33, turn Row 2: SI2, [K1, SL1] to last 2 sts, K2, turn Row 3: Sl1, purl to end, turn Row 4: [Sl1, K1] to end, turn Repeat these 4 rows until you have worked a total of 39 rows, ending with a WS row. You can make the flap shorter or longer, but this will effect the number of sts you can pick up for the gusset, so this will need to be taken into account when you come to the gusset. Turn the heel as follows: Row1: [SL1, K1] 8 times, K3, SSK, K1, turn (leaving 12 sts unworked) Row2: Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn (again leaving 12 sts unworked) Row3: Sl1, K to 1 st before gap, SSK, K1, turn Row4: Sl1, P to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have used up all the sts either side. You should be ready to work a K row, with 20 sts on your needle.
Gusset:
With needle1, K 10 Pick up and K 1 st in each of the slipped stitches all the way down the heel flap to the instep. You should pick up half the number of sts that you have knitted rows in your flap, i.e. 20 sts for a 39 row flap (rounding up). M1 st in the gap between the flap and the instep sts, place a stitch marker, K across half your instep sts. With needle2, K across the remaining instep sts, place a second marker, M1 in the gap between the instep and the flap. Pick up and K one st in each of the slipped sts up the second side of the heel flap, taking care to pick up the same number as on the other side. K remaining 10 sts to centre back. Round1: K 16, [P2, K1tbl] until 2 sts before the instep marker, K 2tog. K across instep to second marker, SSK, mirror the rib from the other side until you have 16 sts left, K to end Round2: work plain, keeping the gusset in rib as established. Repeat these two rounds until you have decreased all of the rib sts of the gusset and are left with 64 sts for the foot.
Foot:
Work the foot in plain stocking stitch until you are 5 cm / 2 inches short of your desired total foot length.
Toe:
To place your markers for the toe decreases (if you prefer to use them), work first round as fol lows: K 13, K2tog, K1, place marker, K1, SSK, K 13. Repeat on Needle2 Round2: K Round3: K Round4: K Round5: [K to 3 sts before marker, K2 tog, K1, sl marker, K1, SSK, K to end] on each needle Round6: K Round7: K Round8: as Round 5 Round9: K Round10: K Round11: as Round5 Round12: K Round13: as Round5 Round14: K Round15: as Round5 Round16: K Round17: as Round5 Keep working Round 5 until you have a total of 16 sts. With a DPN, K 4 sts from needle1. Move the remaining 4 sts from needle1 and the first 4 sts from needle2 onto a second DPN. Move the last 4 sts from needle2 onto the first DPN. Cut yarn, leaving about 10 inches / 25 cms and graft the toe closed. Turn sock inside out and darn in both loose threads.
Further suggestions:
·It is very easy to substitute other types of heel if you prefer, just work it instead of the flap + gusset heel described here. ·You could try and continue the pattern down the foot, but as the design repeats 3 times around the leg, some adjustments will have to be made to make it fit. ·I have deliberately set the designs so the are not centred on the finished sock; if this bothers you work another 11 sts plain before starting the heel to centre the design over the heel. ·I like the repeat of the rib in the gusset, but this could of course be worked plain instead.
Glossary:
St, sts stitch, stitches Kknit Ppurl SI slip K2tog knit 2 stitches together SSK slip, slip, knit. Slip 2 stitches separately as if to knit, insert left needle into these two stitches from the right and knit onto right needle. P2togpurl 2 stitches together CCD centred double decrease. Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, knit next stitch and pull slipped stitches over this stitch. WS, RS Wrong Side, Right Side
