New Treeline Cardigan
Back in the very early days of the Purl Bee when we had about a dozen readers, a quarter of whom were our mothers, we posted a pattern for a sweater that we called the Treeline Striped Cardigan. It has endured to this day, enjoying an active life on Ravelry and garnering many comments here on the Bee. Unfortunately, a not insignificant number of those comments have been... egads, corrections! This pattern is really from the Purl Bee dark ages, from before we had meetings or schedules or plans, let alone editors, but since then, we've... matured. And so it's become time to rescue an old favorite from the annals of glitchy patterns. We've corrected some numbers, added a larger size and a schematic, streamlined the wording, and definitely made the whole pattern much more user friendly.
And on the style front, this new version has a more decisive collar (thanks to Faye, our intrepid re-designer!) and an updated choice of yarns. The New Treeline Striped Cardigan alternates between Manos Del Uruguay's soft and cozy Maxima and Alchemy's charismatic Kozmos. The result is a textural adventure, full of fascination and beauty! All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!
MATERIALS
Main Color (MC): 3 (3, 4) skeins of Manos Del Uruguay's Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino Wool. This color (on the left) is Natural. Contrast Color (CC): 3 (3, 4) skeins of Alchemy's Kozmos, 30% Silk, 26% Mohair, 15% Wool, and 31% Cotton. This color (on the right) is Platinum. A US #9, 24 or 32-inch circular needle A set of US #9 double pointed needles 4 stitch holders Six 3/4-inch buttons. These are Purl Soho's Mother of Pearl Buttons - Large
GAUGE
4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Woman's Small (Medium, Large) Finished Chest Circumference: 34 1/2 (38 1/2, 42 1/2) inches, buttoned Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (13 1/2, 13 1/2) inches Length from cuff to armhole: 17 (17 1/2, 18) inches
All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!
NOTES
Since the Sleeves are worked in the round, it is easy to change colors: simply change at the beginning of each round (see Stripe Pattern in the Round, below). When working back and forth, however, this pattern employs a neat technique for working stripes that are only one row high without having to cut and rejoin the yarn. The entire body of the sweater is worked this way (see Stripe and Rib Pattern, below).
STRIPE PATTERN IN THE ROUND
Round 1: With CC, knit. Round 2: With MC, knit. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Stripe Pattern in the Round. Carry the color not in use up the wrong side.
STRIPEANDRIBPATTERN
Row 1: On the right side of the work, using CC, [k1, p1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern), knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times (edge stitches, keep in rib pattern); do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to knit again. Row 2: Still on the right side, using MC, [k1, p1] 3 times, knit to last 6 stitches, [p1, k1] 3 times; turn. Row 3: On the wrong side of the work, using CC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; do not turn. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to purl again. Row 4: Still on the wrong side, using MC, [p1, k1] 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, [k1, p1] 3 times; turn. Repeat Rows 1-4 for Stripe and Rib Pattern. Note that you work 2 rows on the right side (one in CC, followed by one in MC), then 2 rows on the wrong side (one in CC, followed by one in MC). Never turn after working CC; always slide the stitches back to the right-hand end of the needle, ready to work on that same side with MC. Always turn after working MC, ready to work on the opposite side of the work with CC. Carry the color not in use up the outside edge of the work, being careful not to pull too tightly when working the first stitch in the row.
PATTERN
SLEEVES
CUFF With MC, cast 32 (36, 40) stitches 0nto the double pointed needles. Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Round 1: \*K1, p1, repeat from \* to end of round. Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. Do not cut MC.
STRIPES
Join CC. Beginning Stripe Pattern in the Round (see Pattern Notes, above), work Rows 1 and 2 three more times.
SHAPE SLEEVE
Increase Round: Continuing in Stripe Pattern as established, knit front and back (kfb), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [2 stitches increased] Work even in Stripe Pattern in the Round for 6 rounds. Repeat last 7 rounds 8 (9, 10) more times. You will alternate working the Increase Round on a MC round, then on a CC round. [50 (56, 62) stitches] Continue to work in Stripe Pattern in the Round without increasing until piece measures 17 (17 All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation! 1/2, 18) inches from cast on edge, ending with a MC round. Final Round: With CC, knit to end of round, remove marker, k3 (4, 5) stitches past the marker, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder. [44 (48, 52) stitches remain] Cut both yarns, leaving a 12-inch tail of MC (you'll need it later to graft the underarms together!). Put the first sleeve on hold on stitch holders, an extra circular needle, or scrap yarn andmakeasecondsleevethesameasthefirst.
BODY
BOTTOMRIBBING
circularn,ease .137(153, 169) stitches onto the Row 1 (right side): \*K1, p1, repeat from \* to last stitch, k1. Row 2 (wrong side): \*P1, k1, repeat from \* to last stitch, p1. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until pieces measures 2 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 2. Do not cut MC.
STRIPES
Change to CC and Stripe and Rib Pattern (see Pattern Notes, above). Work even until piece measures 14 (13 1/2, 13 1/2) inches from cast on edge (or desired length to underarm), ending with Row 4 of pattern.
YOKE
YOKE PREPARATION
Next Row (right side): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 37 (42, 47) stitches, place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, k69 (77, 85), place previous 6 (8, 10) stitches on a stitch holder, work to end of row. [125 (137, 149) total working stitches: 31 (34, 37) stitches for each front and 63 (69, 75) stitches for the back]. Do not turn work; with the right side still facing you, slide the stitches back to the righthand end of the needle.
JOINSLEEVESTOBODY
Joining Row (right side again): Continuing in Stripe and Rib Pattern, work 31 (34, 37) stitches, place marker (pm), k44 (48, 52) across right sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, k63 (69, 75) across back, pm, k44 (48, 52) across left sleeve stitches (again, starting with the stitch left of the underarm stitch holder), pm, work to end of row. [213 (233, 253) stitches, divided by four markers indicating the front and back of the shoulders]. Turn work. Work even in Stripe and Rib Pattern for 2 rows.
SHAPE RAGLAN
Note: Throughout all raglan shaping rows, continue to work in Stripe and Rib Pattern as established. Row 1 (right side): \*Work to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* 3 more times,workto end of row.[8 stitches decreased] Rows 2-4: Work even. Repeat Rows 1-4 two more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once. [181 (201,221) stitches remain]
SHAPENECKEDGEANDRAGLAN
Row 1 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* 3 more times, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased] Row 2: Work even. All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation! Row 3 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, \*knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* 3 more times, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [10 stitches decreased] Row 4: Work even. Repeat Rows 1-4 three (four, five) more times, then repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (one, zero) time(s). [91 (91, 101) stitches remain] SIZE SMALL ONLY Row 1 (right side): Work 6 stitches, \*knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* 3 more times, knit to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [83 stitches] Row 2: Work even. Row 3 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, \*slip marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, repeat from \* twice, slip marker, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [75 stitches remain] Row 4: Work even. Row 5 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, removing marker, \*knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* once, knit to 3 stitches before marker, [k2tog] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [67 stitches remain] Row 6: Work even. Row 7 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [59 stitches remain] Row 8: Work even. Row 9 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, \*knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [51 stitches remain] Row 10: Work even. Row 11 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [45 stitches remain] Row 12: Work even. Row 13 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [39 stitches remain] Row 14: Work even.
SIZE LARGE ONLY
Row 1 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, \*purl to 2 stitches before marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* 3 more times, purl to last 6 stitches, work to end of row. [93 stitches] Row 2: Work even.
SIZES MEDIUM AND LARGE ONLY
Row 1 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, slip marker, \*k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, repeat from \* once, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, work to end of row. [- (83, 85) stitches remain] Row 2: Work even. Row 3 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, removing marker, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* once, purl to 3 stitches before marker, [p2togtbl] twice, removing marker, work to end of row. [— (75, 77) stitches remain] Row 4: Work even. All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation! Row 5 (right side): Work 6 stitches, [ssk] twice, \*knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* once, knit to last 10 stitches, [k2tog] twice, work to end of row. [- (67, 69) stitches remain] Row 6: Work even. Row 7 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, [p2tog] twice, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* once, purl to last 10 stitches, [p2togtbl] twice, work to end of row. [- (59, 61) stitches remain] Row 8: Work even. Row 9 (right side): Work 6 stitches, ssk, \*knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, repeat from \* once, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, work to end of row. [- (53, 55) stitches remain] Row 10: Work even. Row 11 (wrong side): Work 6 stitches, p2tog, \*purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, slip marker, p2togtbl, repeat from \* once, purl to last 8 stitches, p2togtbl, work to end of row. [- (47, 49) stitches remain Row 12: Work even. Rows 13 and 14 (right side): Repeat Rows 9 and 10. [— (41, 43) stitches remain] ALL SIZES Row 15 (wrong side): Work to next marker, remove marker, p2togtbl, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog, remove marker, work to end of row. [37 (39, 41) stitches remain] Cut CC yarn.
COLLAR AND FRONT BANDS
BACK OF COLLAR Row 1 (right side): \*K1, p1, repeat from \* to last stitch, k1. At the end of the row, with the right side still facing you, pick up 4 stitches at the neck edge. [4 stitches increased] Row 2 (wrong side): \*P1, k1, repeat from \* to last stitch, p1. With the wrong side still facing you, pick up (purlwise) 4 stitches at the neck edge. [4 stitches increased] Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (nine, ten) more times. [109 (119, 129) stitches] FRONT BANDS Row 1 (right side): \*K1, p1, repeat from \* to last stitch, k1. With the right side still facing you, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the left front edge. Reihen 166 - 219 (225/229/237) (= 54 (60/64/72) Reihen gesamt): in Muster I (glatt rechts), am Rand Rdm arb, nach der RdM am R-A und vor der RdM am R-E fur den Saum jeweils 5 M in Muster IIl (Rippenmuster) arb. Row 3: \*K1, p1, repeat from \* to last stitch, k1. Row 4: \*P1, k1, repeat from \* to last stitch, p1. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until front bands measure 3/4 inch, ending with a wrong side row. Buttonhole Row (right side): [K1, p1] twice, bind off next 2 stitches, \*work 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2) inches in 1 x 1 rib as established, bind off 2 stitches, repeat from \* 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row. Next Row: \*Work in 1 x 1 rib as established to bound-off stitches, cable cast on 2 stitches, repeat from \* 5 more times, work in 1 x 1 rib as established to end of row. Continue to work in 1 x 1 rib as established until front bands measure 1 1/2 inches, incorporating the cable cast-on stitches into the 1 x 1 rib as established. All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!
FINISH
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarm seams together. Sew on six 3/4-inch buttons across from the buttonholes. Weave in your ends and gently block your new cardigan! All Purl Bee and Purl Soho patterns are copyrighted and intended for personal home use only. Items made from our patterns may not be sold or auctioned. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!
