Loueys Collection Spring 2013
Including: IdristheDragon EggberttheLittleChicken Star Baby Ziggy the Zebra Hooty the Owl Cute Bunny
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finished products are listed.
Jdis
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finished products are listed.
This isldris!Idris used tolive in a cold dark cave but now finds all the warmth he needs by snuggling up to someone special!
What you will need:
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn 50g of yarn for the blanket (green in example) 30g yarn for the head and ears (green in example) 30g yarn for the scales (yellow in example) 20g yarn for the wings (red in example) Small amount of a pale yarn for the white of the eye (pale yellow in example) Very small amount of a darker yarn for nostrils and pupils (black in example) Hook: G7 (4.5mm) Gauge: Not critical for this project - try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through Note: Different hook sizes and yarn weights can be used to achieve a lighter or heavier finished item. Terminology: US Other items needed: Stuffing for head Stitch markers Darning needle
abbreviations:
Beginning (beg) Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Loop (lp) Nxt (nxt) Repeat (rep) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
Sc2tog (sc dec): (Insert hook into nxt st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1sc decreased V st: Work one hdc, ch 1 and hdc again into same st Fphdc: Yo and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the hdc of previous row. Complete as for a regular hdc stitch.
Jattern Stait:
Diamond Blanket
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as a ch1 and a dc) dc into furthest ch from hook, ch3, work 2 further dc into same ch, turn (st count: 2dc, ch3, 2dc) Row 2: Ch3, skp first st, dc in nxt st, work 2dc, ch3, 2dc in 3ch sp, dc in nxt st, dc in 4th ch of ch4, turn (st count: 4dc, ch3, 4dc) Rows 3-16: Ch3, skp first st, dc across to ch3 sp, work 2 dc, ch3, 2dc in 3ch sp, dc across to end, working a dc in top of turning ch, turn (each row will increase by 4dc) Do not fasten off continue to the...
Blanket Border
Ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across, working 3sc into ch3 sp. Do not turn, instead work 2 further sc into last st and continue to sc around the blanket, working 2sc into each end dc st. Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Head
Ildris's head is crocheted in continuous spirals from the nose up, without joining the rounds from the bottom up to the top of the head. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one. Foundation Round 1: With chosen yarn, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Round 3: \* Work sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (18sc) Round 4: \* Work sc in nxt 2 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (24sc) Round 5: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (30sc) Rounds 6 & 7: Sc in each st around (30sc) Round 8: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (24sc) Rounds 9: Sc in each st around (24sc) Round 10: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (30sc) Round 11: \* Work sc in nxt 4 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (36sc) Round 15: \* Work sc in nxt 4 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (30sc) Round 16: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (24sc) Round 17: \* Work sc in nxt 2 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (18sc) Stuff head. Round 18: \* Work sc in nxt st, sc2tog, rep from \* around (12sc) Round 19: Sc2tog around (6sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail and use this to weave through the final stitches to close, hide any loose ends.
Features
Nostrils - make 2 Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook, join last sc to first sc with a sl st and fasten off leaving a tail to attach to nose (6sc) Attach nostrils to either side of top front of nose. Eyes - make 2 Row 1: Using pale yarn, ch2, work 5sc in furthest ch from the hook, join last sc to first sc with a sl st (5sc) Row 2: Ch1, sl st in nxt st, 2sc into each of nxt 3 sts, sl st into last st, fasten off leaving a tail to attach to head. Attach whites of eyes to top half of head and then taking a darker yarn sew pupils over the whites of the eyes.
Ears - make 2
Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook, join last sc to first with a sl st (6sc) Round 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st) work 2sc in same st, work 2sc in each st around, join last sc to first with a sl st (12sc) Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), work sc in same st, \* 2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st rep from \* around, join last sc to first with a sl st (18sc) Round 4: Ch1 (does not count as a st), work sc in same st and sc in nxt st \* work 2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, rep from \* around, join last sc to first with a sl st (24sc) Fasten off leaving a fairly long tail Fold ear in half and sew up a few of the stitches like so:
Then sew onto side of head:
Wings - make 2 Row 1: Ch2 (does not count as a st), 3dc in furthest ch from hook, turn (3dc) Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), work 2dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in last st, turn (5dc) Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), dc in nxt 2 sts, 2dc in nxt st, dc in nxt st, 2dc in nxt st, turn (7dc) Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), 2dc in first st, dc in nxt st, 2dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 4 sts, turn (9dc) Row 5: Ch2 (does not count as a st), dc into each st across, turn (9dc) Row 6: \*Ch3, sl st into nxt st, repeat from \* twice more times. \*\* Ch2, sl st into nxt st, repeat from \*\* five more times. Fasten off. Attach wings to the dc either side of the third hole from the top of the blanket as shownbelow
Scales
Please see the end of this pattern for a tutorial on the crocodile stitch which you may find helpful if you have not worked it before. Ch5 (counts as a v st - hdc, ch1, hdc) and join to form a ring. Round 1: Ch2 (counts as a hdc), work 3 hdc in ring, ch2, work 3 hdc in ring, ch2 (counts as a hdc) and sl st into ring. Do not join round, and do not turn. This first open round counts as the first scale and the first point of the scales (1 scale). Row 2: Ch3 (count as a hdc and a ch1 sp), hdc in same sp as beg ch to complete a v st, turn (1 v st) Row 3: Ch2 (counts as a hdc), working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of v st, work 3 fphdc, ch2, turn work so v st is sideways and post of second hdc of v st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc of v st, work 3 fphdc, ch2 (counts as a hdc), sl st into ch1 of v st, turn (1 scale) Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have 21 scales. For the final scale (22nd), repeat row 2, then ch2 (counts as a hdc), working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of v st, work 3 fphdc, ch2, turn work so v st is sideways and post of second dc of v st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc and the ch1 of v st, work 6 fphdc, sl st into top of first hdc (1 fully rounded top scale) Fasten off leaving a good long tail to sew scales onto blanket.
arms - make 2
Idris's arms are crocheted in continuous spirals from the hand up, without joining the rounds. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one. Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Round 3: \* Work sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (18sc) Rounds 4 - 6: Sc into each st around (18sc) Round 7: \* Work sc in nxt st, sc2tog, rep from \* around (12sc) Rounds 8 - 13: Sc into each st around (12sc) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to body.
Finishing
Sew head to top of diamond blanket.
Starting in the centre of the head very carefully take your time to sew the scales over the back of the head and down the centre of the diamond blanket.
Sew arms directly beneath the head one to either side - essentially to the neck.
I hope you enjoy making your Idris the Dragon Lovey! All my for sale patterns are fully tested by members of my pattern testing group on Ravelry but if you do find that you need any clarification of any part of the pattern or find any errors, please don't hesitate to let me know: Ravelry: LollysCC ● Facebook: Lolly's Crafty Crochet ● Twitter: @LollysCC Website:www.lollyscraftycrochet.co.uk
Photo tutorial of the crocodile stitch:
Note: Please note yarn weight and hook were changed for better visualisation on the images. The following tutorial uses dc rather than hdc - the principle of how the scales are formed remains the same.
Workingfrombottom to toparoundpostof second dcofv-st,work5fpdc.
This is Eggbert! This eggstremely cute little guy loves the Spring and eggspecially Easter!
What you will need:
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn 75g of yarn for the blanket (pale yellow, saffron yellow & green in example) 30g yarn for the body (pale yellow in example) 20g yarn for the flowers (saffron yellow in example) Small amount of a coloured yarn for the eye (black in example) Small amount of a coloured yarn for beak and feet (saffron yellow in example) Very small amount of yarn for the coxcomb (red in example)
Eggbert
EASY
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed —mechanically, electronically,or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern maybe used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finishedproductsarelisted.
Hook: G7 (4.5mm)
Gauge: Not critical for this project - try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through Note: Different hook sizes and yarn weights can be used to achieve a lighter or heavier finished item.
Terminology: US
Other items needed: Stuffing for head Stitch markers Darning needle
abbreviations:
Beginning (beg) Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Loop (lp) Nxt (nxt) Repeat (rep) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
2dc Cluster: Yo, insert hook through nxt stitch, yarn over, hook back through stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Then yarn over and insert hook through same st, yarn over, hook back through stitch (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Sc2tog (sc dec): (lnsert hook into nxt st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1sc decreased
Jattern Start:
granny Hexagon Blanket
Round 1: Ch4, work 11dc into furthest ch from hook, join last dc to first with a sl st to form a circle, fasten off colour (12dc - beg ch counts as a dc). Round 2: Join new colour, ch1 (not a st), 2dc cluster into same st, \* ch1, 2dc cluster in nxt st, repeat from \* around, ending with a ch1 and by joining to first cluster with a sl st, fasten off colour (12 clusters and 12 ch1 sps) Round 3: Join new colour to ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as a dc), work 2dc into same st, \* ch1, work 3dc into nxt ch1 sp, repeat from around, ending with a ch1 and joining this to ch3 with a sl st, fasten off colour (12 groups of 3dc and 12 ch1 sps) Round 4: Join a new colour to a ch1 sp, ch3, sl st into nxt ch1 sp, repeat from \* around, ending with a ch3 and sl st back into starting st (12 ch3 loops). Do not fasten off as you will use the same colour for round 5. Round 5: Sl st into ch3 loop. Ch3 (counts as a dc), work 2dc, ch2, 3dc into same ch3 loop (corner). \* Work 3dc into nxt ch3 loop. Work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into nxt ch3 loop (corner). Repeat from \* around. You will end the round with a 3dc group. Join the round with a slip stitch (18 groups of 3dc & 6 corners formed by ch2 sps). Fasten off colour. Round 6: Join new colour to one of the ch2 corners, ch3 (counts as a dc), 2dc, ch2, 3dc into same ch2 sp, \* work 3dc in each of nxt 2 sps between 3dc groups of previous round to nxt corner, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into ch2 sp, repeat from \* around, ending with a 3dc group. Join the round with a sl st (24 groups of 3dc & 6 corners formed by ch2 sps). Rounds 7 - 11: Repeat the steps in round 6, changing colours if/where you want to, working groups of 3dc into the sps between the corners and 3dc, ch2, 3dc into each ch2 corner sp, fasten off.
Blanket Border
Round 1: Join colour to one of the ch2 corners, ch3 (counts as a dc), 5dc into same ch2 sp, \* work 3dc in each sp between the 3dc groups of previous round to nxt corner, work 6dc into ch2 sp, repeat from \* around, ending with a 3dc group. Join the round with a sl st. Round 2: Ch1 and sl st loosely around the blanket to create a more finished look. Fasten off.
Body
Eggbert's body is crocheted in continuous spirals from the bottom up, without joining the rounds from the bottom up to the top of the head. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one. Foundation Round 1: With chosen yarn, ch2, work 5sc in furthest ch from the hook (5sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (10sc) Round 3: Work \*sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st, repeat from \* around (15sc) Round 4: Work \*sc in nxt 2sts, 2sc in nxt st, repeat from \* around (20sc) Round 5: Work \*sc in nxt 3sts, 2sc in nxt st, repeat from \* around (25sc) Round 6: Work \*sc in nxt 4sts, 2 sc in nxt st repeat from \* around (30sc) Round 7: Work \*sc in nxt 5sts, 2 sc in nxt st, repeat from \* around (35 sc) Round 8: Work \*sc in nxt 6sts, 2 sc in nxt st, repeat from \* around (40sc) Rounds 9-14: Sc in each st around (40sc) - Mark round 14 as this is where the eyes will be stitched. Round 15: Work \*sc in nxt 8sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (36sc) Round 16: Work \*sc in nxt 7 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (32sc) Round 17: Work \*sc in nxt 6 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (28sc) Round 18: Work \*sc in nxt 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (24sc) Round 19: Work \*sc in nxt 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (20sc) Round 20: Work \*sc in nxt 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (16sc) Round 21: Work \*sc in nxt 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (12sc) Tightly, stuff the work. Round 22: Work \*sc in nxt st, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (8sc) Round 23: Work \*sc in nxt 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from \* around (6sc) Fasten off leaving a long tail. Use this and a darning needle to close up the hole by stitching back and forth across the opening.
Eyes
Stitch each eye over two stitches in marked round number 14,placing them 8 sts apart.
Beak
Row 1: Using chosen colour for beak, ch2, work 4sc in furthest ch from hook, turn (4sc) Row 2: Ch2 (counts as a hdc), hdc into same st, work 2 hdc in each st across (8hdc) Fasten off leaving a tail. Fold this half circle in half along the flat edge and sew it together this way. Then sew this beak along the flat edge right between the eyes in the centre - this will form a little concave (triangular cup shaped) beak
Jeet & Coxcamb
Make two in one colour for the feet and one in another for the coxcomb. Round 1: Ch2, work 5sc in furthest ch from hook, join first sc to last sc with a sl st (5sc) Row 2: \*Ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in nxt ch, sl st into original st, sl st into nxt st repeat from \* twice more (makes a foot with 3 claws or a coxcomb with three peaks!) Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing to body. Attach feet to bottom of Eggbert's body in line with the eyes but slightly to the sides. Attach coxcomb to the top of Eggbert's head, slightly more towards the front than the back, facing end on at the front.
Wings - make 2
Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from hook, join first sc to last sc with a sl st (6sc) Round 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st), work 2sc in same st, hdc in nxt st, 2dc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st. 2sc in nxt st, sl st in nxt st and fasten off leaving a tail to sew onto body. Sew edge of wings to bird one row below the eyes to the side of the body.
Little Jlowers - make 6
Round 1: With chosen yarn colour, ch2, 5sc in furthest ch from hook. Join last sc to first sc with a sl st (5sc). Round 2: \* Ch2, 3dc, ch2, sl st in the same st, sl st into nxt st and repeat from \* around, making 5 petals. Fasten off and attach to blanket as illustrated opposite.
I hope you enjoy making your Eggbert the Little Chick Lovey! All my for sale patterns are fully tested by members of my pattern testing group on Ravelry but if you do find that you need any clarification of any part of the pattern or find any errors, please don't hesitate to let me know: Ravelry: LollysCC Facebook: Lolly's Crafty Crochet Twitter: @LollysCC Website: www.lollyscraftycrochet.co.uk
Star Baby Lavey
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern maybe reproduced or distributed —mechanically,electronically,or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finishedproducts arelistedforsale.
Say hello to Star Baby! Star Baby loves to snuggle, comfort andencourage! This lovely lovey crochets up quickly and is small enough to fit into a travel bag. StarBaby is the perfect gift for any occasion!
What you will need:
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn 15g of yarn for the face 20g of another colour for the body & hat Small amount of pink yarn for the cheeks and in brown or black for the eyes.
Hook: H (5mm)
Gauge: Not critical for this project - try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through Note: Different hook sizes and yarn weights can be used to achieve a lighter or heavier finished item.
Terminology: US
Other items needed: Stuffing for head Stitch markers Darning needle
abbreviations:
Beginning (beg) Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Loop (lp) Next (nxt) Repeat (rep) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
Hdc2tog (hdc dec): Yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a Ip, 3 Ips on hook. Yo hook, insert hook into nxt st, pull up a Ip, 5 Ips on hook. Yo hook, pull through all 5 Ips. Sc2tog (sc dec): (Insert hook into nxt st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1 sc decreased
Jattern Start:
Shoulders & Chest
Foundation row: Ch12, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across, turn (11hdc - starting ch counts as a hdc) Row 1: Ch2 (counts as a hdc from now on), hdc in nxt 2 sts, work 3hdc in nxt st placing a st marker in the central hdc st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, 3hdc in nxt st placing another marker as before in the central hdc st, hdc in last 3 sts, turn (15 hdc) Rows 2 - 5: Ch2, hdc in each st across, placing 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to each central st as you move up the rows, turn. Place stitch marker in first st of row 5. (19, 23, 27, 31 sts)
Fiust aum
Row 6: Ch2, hdc in nxt 8 sts, place st marker at the base of the last hdc, turn (9hdc) Row 7: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (8hdc) Row 8:Ch2, hdc in nxt 7 sts, turn (8hdc) Row 9: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 10: Ch2, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 11: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 4 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 12: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 13: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (5hdc) Rows 14 - 18: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts , turn (5hdc) Row 19: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 2 sts, turn (4hdc)
Other arm
Rows 20-22: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (4hdc) Row 23: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (3hdc) Attach yarn to opposite shoulder, where you placed the st marker in the first st of row5. Rows 24-28: Ch2, hdc in nxt 2 sts, turn (3hdc) Row 29: Ch2, hdc2tog, turn (2hdc)
Row 1: Ch2, hdc in nxt 8 sts, place st marker at the base of the last hdc, turn Rows 30-34: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, turn (2hdc) Row 35: Ch1, sc in nxt st, turn (2sc) Fasten off. (9hdc) Row 2: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (8hdc) Row 3:Ch2, hdc in nxt 7 sts (8hdc) Row 4: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (7hdc) Row 5: Ch2, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 6: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (6hdc) Row 7: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 8: Ch2, hdc in nxt 2 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (5hdc) Rows 9-13: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts, turn (5hdc) Row 14: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (4hdc) Rows 15-17: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (4hdc) Row 18: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (3hdc) Rows 19-23: Ch2, hdc in nxt 2 stsm turn (3hdc) Row 24: Ch2, hdc2tog, turn (2hdc) Rows 25-29: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, turn (2hdc) Row 30: Ch1, sc in nxt st, turn (2sc) Fasten off.
Body
Attach yarn to right hand side of the chest, where you placed the first st marker.
Row 1: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc across to 2nd st marker, place 2hdc into marked st, turn (16hdc). Row 2: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc across to last st and place 2hdc in the last st, turn (18hdc) Rows 3 - 6: Ch2, hdc in each st across, turn (18hdc)
Fiust Leg
Row 7: Ch2, hdc in nxt 8 sts, turn, place st marker in nxt st - this marks where you will attach the yarn for the other leg, turn (9hdc) Row 8: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (8hdc) Row 9: Ch2, hdc in nxt 7 sts, turn (8hdc) Row 10: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 11: Ch2, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 12: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 4 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 13: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 14: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (5hdc) Row 15: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts, turn (5hdc) Row 16: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in nxt 2 sts, turn (4hdc) Row 17: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (4hdc) Row 18: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (3hdc) Rows 19-24: Ch2, hdc in nxt 2 sts, turn (3hdc) Row 25: Ch2, hdc2tog, turn (2hdc) Rows 26-29: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, turn (2hdc) Row 30: Ch1, sc in nxt st, turn (2sc) Fasten off.
Other Leg
Keep holding the piece upside down and attach yarn to marked st.
Row 1: Ch2, hdc in nxt 8 sts, turn (9hdc) Row 2: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (8hdc) Row 3: Ch2, hdc in nxt 7 sts, turn (8hdc) Row 4: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (7hdc) Row 5: Ch2, hdc in nxt 6 sts, turn (7hdc) Row 6: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (6hdc) Row 7: Ch2, hdc in nxt 5 sts, turn (6hdc) Row 9: Ch2, hdc in nxt 4 sts (5hdc) Row 10: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (4hdc) Rows 11: Ch2, hdc in nxt 3 sts, turn (4hdc) Row 12: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (3hdc) Rows 13-18: Ch2, hdc in nxt 2 sts, turn (3hdc) Row 19: Ch2, hdc2tog, turn (2hdc) Rows 20-23: Ch2, hdc in nxt st, turn (2hdc) Row 24: Ch1, sc in nxt st, turn (2sc)
Finishing the Body
Ch1, sc into same st, work sc equally all the way around the piece. Loosely knot arms and legs, slide knot to lower end and pull tighter.
Head
Star Baby's head is crocheted in continuous spirals, without joining the rounds. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one. Foundation Round 1: With chosen yarn, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Round 3: \*2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st; rep from \* around (18sc) Round 4: \*2sc in nxt st, sc in each of nxt 2 sts; rep from \* around (24sc) Round 5: \*2sc in nxt sc, sc in each of nxt 3 sts; rep from \* around (30sc) Round 6: \*2sc in nxt sc, sc in each of nxt 4 sts; rep from \* around (36sc) Rounds 7-13: Sc in each st around (36sc) Round 14: \*Sc2tog, sc in each of nxt 4 sts; rep from \* around (30sc). Round 15: \*Sc2tog, sc in each of nxt 3 sts; rep from \* around (24sc). Stuff the head - not too tightly. Round 16: \*Sc2tog, sc in each of nxt 2 sts; rep from \* around (18sc) Round 17: \*Sc2tog, sc in nxt st; rep from \* around (12sc) Round 18: Sc in each st around (12sc). Fold this row against itself, so that 6 sts lay against 6 sts. Cut yarn leaving a long tail and sew these sts together. Then sew head as neatly as possible to the neck of the body.
Eyes
Count down 11 rounds from the top of the head downwards and identify the central st on the face. Count three sts over to the left and taking a small length of yarn, sew on the first eye over a couple of sts, then tie it off securely and hide the yarn tail in the head. Do the same counting the stitches in the opposite direction.
Cheeks - make tuo
With pale pink yarn, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook, join last sc to first with a sl st. Fasten off leaving a small length of yarn and then using a darning needle sew the cheek underneath the eye, slightly more towards the side of the head.
Hat
Foundation Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook. Mark first st for beg of nxt rnd; move marker up each rnd. Rounds 2 & 3: Sc in each st around (6sc) Round 4: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Rounds 5 & 6: Sc in each st around (12sc) Round 7: \*2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st; rep from \* around (18sc) Rounds 8 & 9: Sc in each st around (18sc) Round 10: \*2sc in nxt st, sc in each of nxt 2 sts; rep from \* around (24sc) Rounds 11 & 12: Sc in each st around (24sc) Round 13: \*2sc in nxt sc, sc in each of nxt 3 sts; rep from \* around (30sc) Round 14: Sc in each st around (30sc) Round 15: \*2sc in nxt sc, sc in each of nxt 4 sts; rep from \* around (36sc) Rounds 16-18: Sc in each st around (36sc) Fasten off leaving a long tail, then using a darning needle sew hat to head, working your stitches one round above the finishing round. To create a neat brim, attach yarn to one of the bottom stitches on the hat at the back of the head, then sl st around the edge of the hat to finish. I hope you enjoy making your Star Baby lovey! All my for sale patterns are fully tested by members of my pattern testing group on Ravelry but if you do find that you need any clarification of any part of the pattern or find any errors, please don't hesitate to let me know: Ravelry: LollysCC Facebook: Lolly's Crafty Crochet Twitter: @LollysCC Website: www.lollyscraftycrochet.co.uk
Ziggy!
EASY
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finished products are listed.
Say hello to Ziggy, the Zebra Lovey! Ziggy enjoys spending his days on the Savannah and his nights snuggled up to someonespecial! This lovey crochets up quickly and is small enough to fit into a travel bag. Ziggy is the perfect gift for any special littleone!
What you will need:
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn - 50gwhite 50g black Hook: G7 (4.5mm) Gauge: Not critical for this project - try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through Note: Different hook sizes and yarn weights can be used to achieve a lighter or heavier finished item. Terminology: US Other items needed: Stuffing for head Stitch markers Darning needle
abbreviations:
Beginning (beg) Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Loop (lp) Nxt (nxt) Repeat (rep) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
Sc2tog (sc dec): (lnsert hook into nxt st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1 sc decreased
Jattern Start:
Granny Sguare Blanket
Useful Granny Square Tutorial link from The Crochet Crowd: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFn yfJEWCd8 Using white yarn, ch4 and sl st to the beginning ch to form ring. Round 1: Ch3 (counts as a dc from now on), work 2dc into the ring, \*ch2, 3dc into the ring\*, rep from \* twice more, ch2 and sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round, fasten off the white yarn. Change colour to black yarn, alternate the colour of your rounds from now on throughout rest of blanket instructions. Round 2: Attach black yarn where you fastened off. Ch3, work 2dc into the same sp, \*ch1, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into nxt ch2 corner sp. Rep from \* all the way around. Your final sts should be 3dc, ch2 and then sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Round 3: Attach new colour of yarn in any corner ch2 sp, ch3, work 2dc, ch2, 3dc into same sp, ch1, \*3dc, ch1 across into each ch1 sp to nxt corner, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into nxt ch2 corner sp. Rep from \* all the way around. Sl st last ch1 to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Fasten off for colour change.. Rounds 4-12: Rep round 3 nine times. Each round will cause the square to increase in size.
Border
Without fastening off the previous yarn colour, attach the other colour you are using to the same st, so you are working this final round in both colours. Round 1: With both colours held together and on your hook, ch1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc in nxt 2 sts, work 2sc into ch2 corner sp, \*sc in nxt 3 sts, skp ch1, repeat from \* across to next corner, work 2sc into ch2 corner space, continue to repeat from \* all the way around working 2sc into corner sps joining the last sc to first sc with a sl st (152sc) Round 2: Still keeping both yarns together, ch1, sc into same st, work sc into each st on the sides and 2sc into the two sc's in each corner (160sc) Fasten off.
Head
Ziggy's head is crocheted in continuous spirals, without joining the rounds from the nose up to the top of the head. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one. Foundation Round 1: With black yarn, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from the hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Round 3: \* Work sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (18sc) Round 4: \* Work sc in nxt 2 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (24sc) Round 5: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (30sc) Round 6: \* Work sc in nxt 4 sts, 2sc in nxt st, rep from \* around (36sc) Rounds 7-9: Sc in each st around (36sc) Round 10: \* Work sc in nxt 4 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (30sc) Rounds 11-13: Sc in each st around (30sc) Round 14: \* Work sc in nxt 3 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (24sc) Change to white yarn. Useful video for how to change colour from Planet June: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8vt kK-3Do Rounds 15-17: Sc in each st around (24sc) Change to black yarn. Rounds 18-20: Sc in each st around (24sc) Change to white yarn. Rounds 21-24: Sc in each st around (24sc) - eyes will be placed here - see under the heading features Change to black yarn. Round 25: Sc in each st around (24sc) Round 26: \* Work sc in nxt 2 sts, sc2tog, rep from \* around (18sc) Stuff head. Round 27: \* Work sc in nxt st, sc2tog, rep from \* around (12sc) Round 28: Sc2tog around (6sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail and use this to weave through the final stitches to close, hide any loose ends.
Features
Sew Ziggy's eyes three stitches apart between rows 21 and 24 (as mentioned above). Sew two x's with white yarn onto the end of Ziggy's nose to form his nostrils.
Mane
Warning: The mane strands are very fine once pulled apart, therefore we would not recommend that this lovey be given to babies, due to choking hazard. Mane can always be skipped. Cut 5, 6cm lengths of both the white yarn and the black yarn (10 lengths in total, 5 in white, 5 in black) Start in the centre of the head at the top of the white band where you have placed the eyes. Then with a length of black yarn work the lengths as per the following video by Art of Crochet by Teresa, alternating between black and white in a line to the back of the head: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAg gGMxIJ40 Pull each piece of yarn apart to secure and create a fuller mane.
Ears - make 2
Round 1: Using white yarn, ch2 and work 6sc into the furthest ch from the hook, joining last sc to first with a sl st (6sc) Row 2: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, turn (5sts) Row 3: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, turn (5sts) Change to black yarn. Round 4: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in nxt 4 sts, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, and work, sc in same st to work around the corner, work sc evenly around the ear, I used 6sc but if you feel that you need more or less, please do so! (12sc in total) Fasten off - you will end the ear at the top point. Then using a length of black yarn and a darning needle attach ear to one side of the mane onto the back of the head.
Legs - make 2
Round 1: Using black yarn, ch2 and work 6sc into the furthest ch from the hook, joining last sc to first with a sl st (6sc) Round 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st) 2sc into same st, then work 2sc in each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st (12sC) Rounds 3 - 5: Ch1 (does not count as a st) sc into same st, then sc into each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st (12sc) Fasten off and change yarn colour to white. Rounds 6 - 8: Ch1 (does not count as a st) sc into same st, then sc into each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st (12sc) Round 9: Ch1 (does not count as a st), \*sc2tog, sc in nxt 2 sts, repeat from \* around, joining last st to first with a sl st (9sc) Rounds 10 - 13: Ch1 (does not count as a st) sc into same st, then sc into each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st (9sc) Fasten off with a long tail to allow attachment to body.
Finishing
Using a length of white yarn and a darning needle, sew head to centre of the blanket (utilising the hole in the centre). Make sure to sew the underside of the white band which has the eyes in it to the white centre of the blanket, this will ensure that your sts will not be seen. Using the length of yarn left on each leg, fold them in half and sew the top closed without stuffing. Then using the rest of the length of yarn sew each one separately to the very centre of the blanket right where the head is attached (essentially you are sewing this to the 'neck' as it were). I hope you enjoy making your Ziggy the Zebra Lovey! All my for sale patterns are fully tested by members of my pattern testing group on Ravelry but if you do find that you need any clarification of any part of the pattern or find any errors, please don't hesitate to let me know: Ravelry: LollysCC Facebook: Lolly's Crafty Crochet Twitter: @LollysCC Website: www.lollyscraftycrochet.co.uk
Hooty!
EASY
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed —mechanically, electronically,or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern maybe used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Lolly's Crafty Crochet when finishedproductsarelisted.
Say hello to Hooty!
After a busy night doing what owls do, Hooty enjoys nothing more than spending his days snuggled up to someone special! This lovey crochets up nice and quickly - the perfect gift for everylittle one!
What you will need:
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn 50g of yarn for the blanket (beige, brown and yellow in example) 25g yarn for the head, ears and wings (beige in example) 10g yarn for outer eye colour (white in example) Small amount of a coloured yarn for the eye (yellow in example) Small amount of black for the centre of the eye Small amount of yarn for the beak (brown in example)
Hook: G7 (4.5mm)
Gauge: Not critical for this project - try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through Note: Different hook sizes and yarn weights can be used to achieve a lighter or heavier finished item.
Terminology: US
Other items needed: Stuffing for head Stitch markers Darning needle
abbreviations:
Beginning (beg) Chain (ch) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Loop (lp) Next (nxt) Repeat (rep) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
Sc2tog (sc dec): (Insert hook into next st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1 sc decreased
Jattern Start:
granny Sguare Blanket
Useful Granny Square Tutorial link from The Crochet Crowd: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFn yfJEWCd8 Using chosen yarn, ch4 and sl st to the beginning ch to form ring. Round 1: Ch3 (counts as a dc from now on), work 2dc into the ring, \*ch2, 3dc into the ring\*, rep from \* twice more, ch2 and sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Round 2: Ch3, work 2dc into the same sp, \*ch1, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into next ch2 corner sp. Rep from \* all the way around. Your final sts should be 3dc, ch2 and then sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Round 3: Ch3, work 2dc into the same sp, ch1 \* work 3dc, ch1, into each ch sp across to corner sp. In corner sp, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1. Rep from \* all the way around. Your final corner should have 3dc, ch2 and then sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Rounds 4-12: Rep round 3 nine times. Each round will cause the square to increase in size. I like to change colour every 4 rows for this particular pattern.
Blanket Border
Round 1: Attach coloured yarn of preference to ch2 corner space. Ch1 (does not count as a st), work 2sc into ch2 corner sp, \* sc in nxt 3 sts, skp ch1, repeat from \* across to next corner, work 2sc into ch2 corner space, continue to repeat from \* all the way around working 2sc into corner sps, joining the last sc to first sc with a sl st (152sc) Round 2: Ch1 (does not counts as a st), 2sc into same st, 2sc into next st, then work sc into each st on the sides and 2sc into each of the two sc's in each corner, join last sc to first sc with a sl st (160sc) Round 3: Ch1 and sl st loosely around the blanket to create a more finished look. Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Head
Hooty's head is crocheted in continuous spirals, without joining the rounds from the top down to the bottom of the head. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one. Foundation Round 1: Ch2, 6sc in furthest ch from hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc) Round 3: \*Sc, 2sc in next st\*, rep 6 times (18sc) Round 4: \*Sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st\*, rep 6 times. (24sc) Round 5: \*Sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st\*, rep 6 times (30sc) Round 6: \*Sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st\*, rep 6 times (36sc) Round 7: \*Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st\*, rep 6 times (42sc) Round 8: \*Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st\*, rep 6 times (48sc) Rounds 9-12: Sc in each st around(48sc) Round 13: \*Sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog\*, rep 6 times (42sc) Round 14: \*Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog\*, rep 6 times (36sc) Round 15: \*Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog\*, rep 6 times (30sc) Round 16: \*Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog\* rep 6 times (24sc) Begin stuffing head. Round 17: \*Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog\*, rep 6 time (18sc) Round 18: \*Sc, sc2tog\*, rep 6 times. (12sc) Continue stuffing head firmly. Round 19: \*Sc2tog\*, rep 6 times. (6sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail with which to weave in ends to close the gap and then to attach to the blanket. Eyes - make 2 Round 1: Using black yarn, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from hook, join first sc to last with a sl st. fasten off (6sc) Round 2: Attach yarn for chosen eye colour, ch2 (counts as a hdc), hdc into same st, work 2 hdc in each st around, join first sc to last with a sl st, fasten off (12hdc) Round 3: Attach yarn for chosen outer eye colour, ch3 (counts as a dc), dc into same st, work 2dc in each st around, join first sc to last with a sl st (24dc) Round 4: Ch1 (does not count as a st), sl st loosely around, fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach the eye to the head. Eyes should be positioned so that they are almost touching, side by side on the head. Using the long tail, sew eye onto head with a darning needle, weaving your stitches in and out of the fabric, just beneath the outer sl sts of the outer eye. Secure and hide loose end in the head.
Beak
Round 1: Using chosen colour for beak, ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from hook, join first sc to last with a sl st (6sc) Round 2: Ch2 (counts as a hdc), hdc into same st, work 2 hdc in each st around (12hdc) Fasten off leaving a long tail. Fold in half and sew together this way. Then sew this length ways just beneath the eyes in the centre.
Ears - make 2
Round 1: Using the colour you used for the head, ch2 and work 6sc into the furthest ch from the hook, joining last sc to first with a sl st (6sc) Row 2: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, turn (5sts) Row 3: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in nxt st, dc in next st, sc in nxt 2 sts, turn (5sts) Fasten off - you will end the ear at the top point - leave a long tail with which to sew to head.Ears should be sewn to the side of the head so that the top of the ear is in alignment with the top of the eye.
Wings - make 2
Hooty's wings are crocheted in continuous spirals, without joining the rounds. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one. Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from hook (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sc). Rounds 3&4: Work 1sc in each st around (12sc) Round 5: \*Sc2tog, sc in next two sts, repeat from \* around (9sc) Rounds 6 - 9: Work 1sc in each st around (9sc) Do not stuf wings, sew open end shut and tie off leaving a long tail. Using tail sew wings just beneath the head - to either side of the neck. I hope you enjoy making your Hooty the Owl Lovey! All my for sale patterns are fully tested by members of my pattern testing group on Ravelry but if you do find that you need any clarification of any part of the pattern or find any errors, please don't hesitate to let me know:
Text and images by Lolly's Crafty Crochet & Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale. It is appreciated if design credit to Lolly's Crafty Crochet is listed in finished products.
Cute Bunny Comforter
Yarn: 3/Light/Worsted/8ply yarn - 15g of one color for bunny head, arms and ears, 15g of another color for blanket (body/dress) plus a small amount of yarn for the face. Hook: H hook (5mm) Gauge: Not particularly important but try to keep sts as tight as you can when working the head so that the stuffing does not show through. Terminology: US Other items needed: Stitch marker, darning needle. Beginning (beg) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Single Crochet (sc) Space (sp) Chain (ch) Loop (Ip) Skip (skp) Stitch (st) Double Crochet (dc) Repeat (rep) Slip Stitch (sl st) Yarn Over (yo)
Special Stitches
sc2tog (sc dec) (Insert hook into next st and draw up a Ip) twice, yo and draw through all 3 Ips on hook - 1 sc decreased
Granny Square Blanket
Useful Granny Square Tutorial link from The Crochet Crowd: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFnyfJEWCd8 Ch4 and sl st to the beginning ch to form ring. Round 1: Ch3 (counts as a dc from now on), work 2dc into the ring, \*ch2, 3dc into the ring\*, rep from \* twice more, ch2 and sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Round 2: Ch3, work 2dc into the same sp, \*ch1, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc into next ch2 corner sp. Repeat from \* all the way around. Your final sts should be 3dc, ch2 and then sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. Round 3: Ch3, work 2dc into the same sp, ch1 \* work 3dc, ch1, into each ch sp across to corner sp. In corner sp, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1. Repeat from \* all the way around. Your final corner should have 3dc, ch2 and then sl st to the top of the ch3 that started the round. eat round 3 nine times. Each round will cause the square to increase in siz
Head
Notes
Rounds are worked in continuous spirals; do not join. Do not turn work at the end of each round but use stitch markers as indicated. Round 1: Ch2, work 6sc in furthest ch from hook. Place stitch marker in first st for beg of next Round; move marker up at start of each Round. Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around (12sc). Round 3: \*2sc in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from \* around (18sc). pund 4: \*2sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2sc; repeat from \* around (24sc pund 5: \*2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3sc; repeat from \* around (30sc Round 6-10: Sc in each st around. Round 11: \*Sc2tog, sc in each of next 3sc; repeat from \* around (24sc) Round 12: \*Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2sc; repeat from \* around (18sc). Round 13: \*Sc2tog, sc in next sc; repeat from \* around (12sc) Stuff firmly. Round 14: Sc2tog around (6sc). Fasten off, leaving a long tail to use to sew head to centre of blanket.
Bunny Ears (make 2)
Note: Turning ch1 does not count as a st. 1: Starting at bottom of ear, ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (3s( Row 2: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (3sc) Row 3: 2sc in first sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in last sc, ch 1, turn (5sc) Rows 4 & 5: Sc in each st across, ch1, turn (5sc) Row 6: 2sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2sc in last st, ch1, turn (7sc) Rows 7 - 18: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn. Row 19: Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (5sc) Row 20: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn. Row 21: Sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, ch1, DO NOT TURN (3sc) Edging: Work 21 sc down side of ear, work 3 sc across opposite side of starting ch, work 21 sc up side of ear, ch1, join with a sl st to first sc of row 21. Leaving a length of yarn for sewing, fasten off. Fold ear in half lengthwise and sew the top of row 21 together. Sew ears to top of head.
Arms (make 2)
Notes
Rounds are worked in continuous spirals; do not join. Do not turn work at the end of each round but use stitch markers as indicated. Round 1: Ch2, work 5sc in furthest ch from hook. Place stitch marker in first st for beg of next round; move marker up at start of each Round (6sc) Round 2: Work 2sc in each sc around (12sc). Rounds 3 - 4: Work 1sc in each st around (12sc) Round 5: Sc2tog, sc in next two sts around (9sc) Rounds 6 - 9: Work 1sc in each st around (9sc) Do not stuff arms, sew open end shut and tie off leaving a long tail. Using tail sew arms just beneath the head onto the blanket body. Finish by sewing a simple face onto the bunny using a darning needle - using yarn makes this comforter very safe for little ones. I hope you like this pattern! If you have any problems with it please don't hesitate to let me know and I'll see if I can help!
