Buttons Squared Chapeau
The bobbles in the checkerboard squares are what make this hat unique. The key to a successful experience knitting this hat is to practice making the bobbles. I know it is much more fun to just dive into a new project, which I am guilty of on numerous occasions, and which I always regret. If you have never knit bobbles before, and even if you have, please try a few first to get the hang of it. You will be glad you did. Enjoy your new project! Skills At A Glance In the round Crown Shaping on Double Pointed Needles Design Element - Bobbles Sizes Youth L (Adult S/M, Adult L/XL)
Finished Measurements
With the hat laid flat, un-stretched the first measurement is taken from the top of the crown to rolled edge of brim, and the second measurement is taken across horizontally just above rolled brim. Hat circumference will be equal to two times the second number. Youth 6.25 inches / 16 cm, 8 inches / 20.3 cm S /M 7.25 inches / 18.4 cm, 9 inches / 22.8 cm (pictured) L / XL 8 inches / 20.3 cm, 10.5 inches / 26.7 cm
Materials
Solitude Wool, Romney (RMS1708) 10-ply, Aran wt., 133 yds / 121 meters, 1 hank in your favorite color, picturedhere in Turquoise US# 10 / 6 mm, 20 inch /59 cm circular needle \*\*see NOTE under Gauge before choosing needle size Dpn set, 7.5 inch /19 cm long, in size needle required to obtain gauge Crochet Hook, optional-see Bobble Notes for explanation Stitch markers Row counter, optional Tapestry needle
Gauge
17 sts x 21 rows = 4 inch square /10 cm square in stockinette stitch, knit in the round. 16 sts x 24 rows = 4 inch square / 10cm square in Bobble pattern, knit in the round. Please check gauge to get the same pattern result. \*\* NOTE: If you are not a tight knitter, please consider the use of a US #9 [5.5 mm], to get my gauge.
Pattern Notes
\* I have used both the long tail, and a crochet cast on, and these have simply been my preferences, for this hat. I have also added one stitch to the cast on number to accommodate a technique I use to tighten the join. This little trick decreases one stitch while tightening up the join for a “no gap" finish, if you do not wish to try this joining technique you will want to cast on 60 (66, 78) and begin Rnds 1- 8. SKPO: sl1k, k1,psso. Bobble: [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] allinto one stitch, turn work to back side, k5, turn work to front side and SKPO, k3tog, lift first stitch over second and off needle. \*If you are having trouble with the k3tog, you may want to try a crochet hook to pull your yarn through the 3 sts, making the st and placing the st back onto the RH needle. I used this method because my tight stitches made the k3tog a bit of a struggle at times for me. \* The bobbles worked in round 13 may want to stay on the purl side while being worked, they are easier to work if you let the remain on the back side of your work on this and the next 2 rows before popping them to the front side of your work.
Chapeau
Cast on 61 (67, 79), slip the first stitch on your LH needle to your RH needle, then pass the first stitch of the RH needle over the slipped stitch, place this stitch back onto LH needle, pm behind first st on RH needle. Now begin. Brim Rnds 1-8 (10, 12): k to end. Bobble Pattern Rnd 1: \* p1, k1; repeat from \* to end. Rnds 2, 4, 6: k to end. Rnds 3, 7: p1, \*k5, p1; repeat from \* to last 5, k5. Rnd 5: \* p1, k2, MB, k2; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 8: k to end. Rnd 9: \* p1, k1; repeat from \* to end. Repeat rnds 2 thru 9 two more times. Crown Knit 0 (2, 4) rounds on the circular needles. Divide your total ss, onto three dpn 20 (22, 26) while doing this further divide each number of sts in half. On your first needle, pm at 10 (11, 13) and repeat on each of the remaining two needles. The six sections on the three dpn, will create the decreasing swirl as you begin the following rounds; Rnd 1: \*k8 (9, 11), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 2: \*k7 (8, 10), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 3: \*k6 (7, 9), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 4: \*k5 (6, 8), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 5: \*k4 (5, 7), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 6: \*k3 (4, 6), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 7: \*k2 (3, 5), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 8: \*k1 (2, 4), k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 9: \*k0 (1, 3), k2tog; repeat from \* to end.
Size S/M ONLY Rnd 10 (12): k2tog around. Size L/XL ONLY Rnd 10: \* k2, k2tog; repeat from \* to end. Rnd 11: \* k1, k2tog; repeat from \* to end. All Sizes End with 6 (6, 6) total sts. Finishing Cut a tail at least 12 inches long and thread into a tapestry needle. Using the tapestry needle pick up the stitches from your starting needle, drop the needle and repeat for the next two needles. You will have all six stitches on your thread and you may cinch / or pull the thread tight to close the hole that has now become the top of your hat. Poke the tail down into the hole and onto the wrong side of your hat and weave it in using your tapestry needle.
The Designer
There is nothing like a dream to create the future. -Victor Hugo
My mother taught me to knit hats, scarves and mittens when I was young. I was content with knitting until she taught me how to sew. However, I never really left the needles alone, I kept returning to them for brief periods throughout my life. In 1993 I left the business world to be a full-time mother. I was able to be present for my two boys in their developing years, and in addition, explore a range of other skills that I possessed in the arts. I have been blessed with the time to consider using my artistic talents to follow a dream of working in a creative arts field as my present job becomes part-time. Life holds only new opportunities for me now. Abbreviations: dpn= double pointed needles, k = knit, p = purl, pm = place marker, LH = left hand, MB = make bobble, psso = pass slipped stitch over, RH = right hand, RS = right side of work, Rnd = round, sl1k = slip one knit wise, st(s) = stitches, tog = together, wS =wrong side of work.
