Dappled Things
Fingerless mitts for Gerard Manley Hopkins - just what he always wanted. These are designed to show off variegated yarn. I've used Malabrigo Sock, but anything will do. Look for the ^counter, original, spare, strange', why don't you? The finished mitts fit hands that measure up to 8” around the knuckles. G.M.H., and others larger of hand, can add extra stitches in multiples of four, or wait for me to size up the pattern.
Materials
Variegated sock yarn (one 100g ball is more than enough) 2.75mm needles (DPNs or circular)
Notes
m1 = twisted bar increase (or whatever you prefer) pm = place marker
Cuff:
CO 48 sts (cable cast on), join in round R1: \*sl1, kl, yo, psso2\*, rep from \* to end R2: Knit Rep these 2 rows 23 more times (48 rows in total) Now, you switch to whelk stitch ... R49: \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* 6 times, place marker, \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* 6 times d start the thumb increases. These are different for the rigbt and left hands. .and start the thumb increases. These are different for the right and left hane la start tne tnumo mcreases. These are amlerent for the Tght ana felt na RIGHT HAND (see chart A) R50: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left before marker, sl1, kl, m1, k1, pm, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 (49) R51: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* to marker, pm, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R52: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* until 1 st left before marker, m1, sll, pm \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end (50) R53: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* until 2 sts left before marker, p1, sl1, pm, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end R54: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 1 st left before marker, m1, kl, pm, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 (51) R55: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 2 sts left before marker, k2, pm, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R56: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left before marker, k2, m1, sll, pm \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end R57: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to marker, pm, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end Put the 24 thumh sts (the 24 before the marker) on waste varn. 1 ut the 24 thaino sts (the 24 Delore the marker) onf waste yo R50: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left before marker, sl1, k2, pm, m1, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 (49) R51: k1, \*sll, k3\* rep from \* to 3 sts left before marker, sl1, k2, pm, K2, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R52: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to marker, pm, m1, sll1, \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end (50) R53: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to marker, pm, p1, sl1, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end R54: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 st left before marker, sl1, k2, pm, m1, K3, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R55: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left before marker, sl1, k2, pm, K4, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R56: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to marker, pm, m1, K2, sl1,\*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end (52) R57: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to marker, pm, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end Repeat these 8 rows 5 more times. You have now added 24 sts, giving 72 sts in total. Put the 24 thumb sts (the 24 after the marker) on waste yarn. (48)
From this point, both hands are the same:
R98: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* 5 times, sl1, k2, CO 8sts across the gap, k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 (56) (TIP: If it's awkward casting on from right to left, turn your work around and do an ordinary knitted-on cast on, but purl it instead of knitting. Then turn your work back again, and you're all set up to keep going in the right direction.) You can now start decreasing the 8 thumb gusset stitches, which are shown in brackets below: R99: k1, \*sl1,k3\* rep from \* 5 times, sl1, k2, [k8], k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R100: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* 5 times, k3, SSK, [k6], k2tog, k2, sl1, \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end (54) 1: \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* 5 times, p3, k1, [k6], k1, p2, sl1, \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* to en R102: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* 5 times, sll, k1, SSK, [k4], k2tog, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 (52) R103: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* 5 times, sl1, k2, [k4], k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R104: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* 5 times, k3, SSK, [k2],k2tog, k2, sl1, \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end (50) 5: \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* 5 times, p3, k1, [k2], kl, p2, sl1, \*p3, sl1\* rep from \* to en R106: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* 5 times, sll1, k1, SSK, k2tog, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3sts left, sl1, k2 (48) R107: k1, \*sl1, k3\* rep from \* until 3sts left, sl1, k2
Now that the thumb gusset is finished, continue in whelk stitch straight:
R108: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end. R109: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end Left twist Prl Background = a cable over two stitches turning to the lef ton a purled background R112: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end. R113: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end R114: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R115: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R116: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end. R117: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end
Switch back to cuff pattern:
R118: knit R119: \*sl1, k1, y0, psso\* rep from \* around R120-134: Repeat these last 2 rows 7 more times Castoff
Now you're ready to add the thumb.
Put the 24 sts you left on waste yarn back onto needles. Attach yarn and start knitting from the outside edge, opposite the gusset gap (12 sts along). R135: k1, \*sll, k3,\* rep from \* to \*, sl1, k2, pick up 8 sts along cast on edge, kl, sl1, \*k3,sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, sll, k2 (32) R136: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* to \*, sll, k2, [k8], kl, sl1, \*k3,sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, sll, k2 R136: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, k3, SSK, [k6], k2tog, k2, sl1, \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \* (30) R137: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, p3, k1, [k6], kl, p2, sl1, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \* R138: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* to \*, sl1, k1, SSK, [k4], k2tog, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* to \* (28) R139: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* to \*, sl1, k2, [k4], k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* to \* R140: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, k3, SSK, [k2], k2tog, k2, sl1, \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \* (26) R142: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \*, p3, k1, [k2], k1, p2, sl1, \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to \* R144: k1, \*sl1,k3\*, rep from \* to \*, sl1, kl, SSK, k2tog, \*sl1,k3\*, rep from \* to \* (24) R145: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2
Now you are working whelk stitch straight again.
R146: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end. R147: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end R148: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R149: k1, \*sl1, k3\*, rep from \* until 3 sts left, sl1, k2 R150: \*k3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end. R151: \*p3, sl1\*, rep from \* to end
Switch back to the cuff stitch pattern for 8 rows:
R152: knit R153: \*sl1, k1, y0, psso\* rep from \* around Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times.
Cast off.
CHART A (right hand)
CHART B (left hand)
Key Knit Purl Slip with yarn back M Make 1
