Callicarpa
by Kim Denise
Callicarpa is a genus of shrubs and small trees that includes the American beautyberry, whose iridescent pink berries brighten a wintry day (and provide food for hungry winter birds). This richly textural cowl, with its bobbles and beads, brings the same bright cheer to your winter wardrobe. Knit from a smooth hightwist merino DK, its firm fabric will keep out bitter winds, while architectural details and beaded mesh inserts add sparkle on even thesnowiest days.
YARN
Wollmeise Merino DK 1 skein 468yd (428m)/ 200g Cherry Tree Hill Supersock Selec' DK 2 skeins 230yd (210m)/100g small: 260 yds (238m) large: 468 yds (428m) SIZES circumference Small: 24 inches (61 cm) Large: 56 inches (147 cm) GAUGE 28 sts/ 27 rows per 4 inches over Berry Rib; 22 sts/ 29 rows per 4 inches in stockinette st. NEEDLES&NOTIONS US3 (3.25mm) needles (or size needed to obtain gauge). Circular (1 or 2 sizes smaller than working needle) for provisional cast on. 1 dpn, size of working needle, for three needle bind off. 2 stitch markers (if desired). Waste yarn in contrast color. Size 6/0 seed beads, quantity 216 (small)/384 (large). Beading tool or crochet hook for beading. Tapestry needle.
ABBREVIATIONS
dpn = double pointed needle k= knit LH = left hand M1F = make one increase front (lift the bar between stitches and knit into the back of it) MK = make Berry Knot: K1, (p1, k1) 3 times loosely into same stitch, then with point of LH needle pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th sts on RH handle one at a time over the first st. p2tog = purl two together p=purl pB = place bead, then purl pfb = purl into front and back of stitch pm/sm/rm = place/slip/ remove marker pu&k = pick up and knit pwise = purlwise RH = right hand RS = right side sl = slip st/sts = stitch/stitches st st = stockinette stitch tbl = through back loop WS = wrong side wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back yo = yarn over
PATTERN NOTES
A word about gauge: It can be difficult to measure gauge over the Berry Rib pattern because it is so textural, so be sure to knit a swatch in stockinette. This pattern is designed to be knit at a fairly tight gauge. It creates a firm, windproof fabric that resists flopping and makes the textured stitches pop. Don't be afraid to knit it on unexpectedly small needles. A word about the Turkish Cast On: If you've never done this one before, you will be amazed! It really is as simple as it seems. Once your cast on is complete, you will want to put some kind of highly effective stopper on the ends of the dangling "holder" needle, as this needle will remain in place until the piece is finished. Rubber bands work great in a pinch. A word about CHARTS: RS rows are worked right to left, and WS rows are worked left to right. Chart is worked from bottom up, starting in lower right-hand corner with Row 1.
Helpful Links:
ThreeNeedleBind Off Turkish Cast On Everything you need to know about adding beads to your knitting.
INSTRUCTIONS
Section A: Berry Rib
Cast On 61 sts using Steps 1-4 of the Turkish Cast On. Work Setup Row (Row 0) of Berry Rib Pattern (p.3)/Chart A (p.4). Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 3 (6) times. SMALL: Work Row 1 once more. LARGE: Work Rows 1-11 once more. Next Row (WS): P2tog across all stitches including border, removing markers as you knit, to last 3 sts; p3tog (30 sts).
Section B: Bar (Between Rib and Mesh) Same for both sizes
Row 1 (RS): Knit. After completing this row, use a tapestry needle to thread contrasting waste yarn through all the stitches on the needle. This will be your "guide line" for completing the bar in Row 8. It will ensure that the bar ends up nice and straight. Row 2-7 Beginning with a WS (purl) row, work Rows 2-7 in st st. Row 8 (Ws): K1, \* with yarn in front, insert needle from top down into the head of the purl st just above the waste yarn guide line below; pick up this loop, place it on LH needle, and purl it together with the next st; rep from \* for every st across row to last st; pu&p 1 st from edge and purl together with last remaining st to smooth the edge across the bar (30sts). It can be helpful to use a crochet hook for picking up this stitch and the one in Row 9. Work this row somewhat loosely to help with M1F increases in next row. Row 9 (RS): (k1, M1F) 10 times, k10, (k1, M1F) 9 times, pu&k 1 from row below in edge to smooth the edge across the bar, k last st remaining on needle (50 sts). Yes, you're kind of fudging it here. Use your judgment to determine the best spot for picking up the stitch so it pulls the edge into a nice clean transition across the bar. You're also crossing the picked-up stitchoverthelaststitch.
Section C: Beaded Mesh
Note: The Transition Row of this section reintroduces the border pattern. Transition Row (Ws): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, pm, k1, purl to last eight sts, k1, pm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Begin Beaded Mesh Pattern (p. 3)/Chart B (p. 4) Work Rows 1-4 of Beaded Mesh Pattern/Chart B 2 times. LARGE only: work Rows 1-2 once more. Work Interlude as follows: Interlude Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p1, knit to last st before m, p1, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Interlude Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, knit to m, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Interlude Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyif, k2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, purl to m, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1 Interlude Row 4 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k1, purl to last st before m, k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B 2 times. LARGE only: work Rows 1-2 once more. Decrease Row (RS): Note: this row is worked across all stitches; border pattern is NOT worked. Remove markers as you knit. (k2tog) 10 times, k10, (k2tog) 10 times (30 sts). Next Row (WS): Purl.
Section D: Bar (Between Mesh and Rib) Work Rows 1-8 as in Section B.
Row 9: (K1, M1F) across row to last st, pu&k 1 from row below in edge to smooth the edge across the bar, k last st remaining on needle (61 sts). SIZE SMALL: Repeat Sections A, B, C and D twice more, then skip to Section Q. SIZE LARGE: Continue through Sections E-P
Section E: Berry Rib 2
Work Setup Row of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A. Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 6 times. Work Row 1 oncemore. Next Row (WS): P2tog across all stitches including border, removing markers as you knit, to last 3 sts; p3tog (30 sts.)
Section M: Berry Rib 4
Work Setup Row of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A. Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 4 times. Work Row 1 once more. Next Row (Ws): P2tog across all stitches including border, removing markers as you knit, to last 3 sts; p3tog (30 sts.)
Sections F, G H: Bar, Beaded Mesh, Bar Work as Sections B, C, D.
Sections N, O, P: Bar, Beaded Mesh, Bar Work as Sections B, C, D.
Section I: Berry Rib 3
Work Setup Row of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A. Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 5 times. Work Row 1 once more. Next Row (WS): P2tog across all stitches including border, removing markers as you knit, to last 3 sts; p3tog (30 sts.) Sections J, K, L: Bar, Beaded Mesh, Bar Work as Sections B, C, D.
Section Q: The Big Finish!
Note: I blocked this piece gently to keep the fabric dense and firm. If you want to give this a hard blocking, leave it on the needles (with some good firm stoppers in place) and block it BEFORE you bind off. Come back and bind off when it is dry. Grab the cast-on end and bring it up to meet the working end, with right sides held together and wrong sides facing out. Join the live stitches with the provisional cast on stitches using a three needle bind off. Weave in ends. Soak and block lightly. Wear with delight!
STITCHPATTERNS
Berry Rib:
Setup Row (Row 0) (ws): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, pm, k6,\*p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7\*; rep from \* to \*, end last repeat k6 (instead of k7); pm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row1 (Rs): Sl1wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm,p,\* p2tog,2, pb,kl, pfb,k, ptog,p3\*;rp frm\*to\*,p, sm,k, ptog, yo,k, sl1 wyib, k1. Row3: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog,k2, sm, p3,\* p2tog, k2, pfb, p1,ktbl, p1, pfb,k2, p2tog, p1\*; rep from\*to\*,p2, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 4: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k4,\* p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3 \*; rep from \* to \*, k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row5: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p2, ktbl,\*p1,k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, ktbl\*; rep from\*to\*,p2, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib,k1. Row 6: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, p1, \*k1,p2, k7, p2, k1, p1 \*; rep from \*to\*,k2, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row7: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog,k2, sm,p2, ktbl,\* pfb,k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog,k2, pfb, ktbl\*; repfrom\*to\*,p2, sm, k2, p2tog,yo,k1, sl1 wyib,k1. Row8: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, p1, \* k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1\*; rep from \*to\*, k2, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row9: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog,k2, sm, p2, ktbl, \* p, pfb, k2, ptog, p1,p2tog, k2, pfb,p1, ktl\*;rep from \*to\*, p2, sm, k2, ptog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 10: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, p1, \* k3, p2, k3, p2, k3, p1 \*; rep from \* to \*, k2, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row11: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p2, MK,\*p3, k2, p1, ktbl, p1, k2, p3, MK\*; rep from \*to\*,p2, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib,k1. Row12:S1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog,p2, sm, k6,\*p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7\*; rep from \* to\*, end last repeat k6 (instead of k7);sm, p2, ptg, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1.
Beaded Mesh:
Row 1 (Rs): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p1, \* yo, k2tog \*; rep from \* to\*, p1, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 2 (Ws): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k1,\* pB, p3 \*; rep from \* to \*, k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 3: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p1, \* k2tog, yo \*; rep from \* to \*, p1, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 4: Sl1 wyif,p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k1,\*p3, pB \*; rep from \* to \*, k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1.
CHARTA-BERRY RIB
Chart A setup row
