Callicarpa hat & headband
Callicarpa is a genus of shrubs and small trees that includes the American beautyberry, whose pink berries brighten a wintry day. This beaded, bobbled hat is reminiscent of winter's brightest berries. Knit from a luxurious DK weight yarn at a firm gauge, its dense fabric will keep your ears warm on the coldest days, while the extra wide band holds it snugly in place. The headband is a reprise of the extra wide band, without the crown and with more beaded sections for extra sparkle. Two great ways to keep the weather at bay! by Kim Denise
YARN
Posh Yarn Martha DK 1 skein 230 yds (210 m)/100 g Wollmeise Merino DK 1 skein 468yd (428m)/ 200g Hat: 230 yds (210m) Headband: 150 yds (133m)
SIZE
18 inches (46cm) circumference To fit heads 19-21 inches (48-53cm)
GAUGE
28 sts/ 27 rows per 4 inches over Berry Rib; 23 sts/ 28 rows per 4 inches in stockinette st.
NEEDLES&NOTIONS
US3 (3.25mm) needles (or size needed to obtain gauge). Circular (1 or 2 sizes smaller than working needle) for provisional cast on and picking up crown sts 1 dpn, size of working needle, for three needle bind off. 2 stitch markers (if desired). Waste yarn in contrast color. Size 6/0 seed beads, quantity 28 (hat)/112 (headband). Beading tool or crochet hook for beading. Tapestry needle.
ABBREVIATIONS
dpn = double pointed needle k = knit kwise = knitwise LH = left hand M1F = make one increase front (lift the bar between stitches and knit into the back of it) MK = make Berry Knot: K1, (p1, k1) 3 times loosely into same stitch, then with point of LH needle pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th sts on RH handle one at a time over the first st. p2tog = purl two together p=purl pB = place bead, then purl pfb = purl into front and back of stitch pm/sm/rm = place/slip/ remove marker pu&k = pick up and knit pu&p = pick up and purl pwise = purlwise RH = right hand RS = right side s2kp=sl 2 pwise, k1, pass slipped sts over sl= slip st/sts = stitch/stitches st st = stockinette stitch tbl = through back loop WS = wrong side wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back yo = yarn over
PATTERN NOTES
A word about gauge: It can be difficult to measure gauge over the Berry Rib pattern because it is so textural, so be sure to knit a swatch in stockinette. This pattern is designed to be knit at a fairly tight gauge. It creates a firm, windproof fabric that holds its shape and makes the textured stitches pop. Don't be afraid to knit it on unexpectedly small needles. Winding Provisional Cast On: It really is as simple as it seems. No need to knit back over the wound-on sts; just jump right in with the setup row. You will want to put an effective stopper on the ends of the dangling "holder" needle, as this needle will remain in place until the piece is finished. Rubber bands work great in a pinch. Using Charts: RS rows are worked right to left, and WS rows are worked left to right. Chart is worked from bottom up, starting in lower right-hand corner with Row 1. Variations: If you prefer the extra bead-y sparkle of the headband, but want a whole hat, feel free to follow the headband instructions through Section F, then proceed to Section G and add the crown. Or, if you want a headband with a little less bling, follow the hat instructions through Section F and call it done!
Helpful Links:
ThreeNeedleBind Off WindingProvisional CastOn Everything you need to know about adding beads to your knitting.
INSTRUCTIONS
Section A: Berry Rib
Cast On 47 sts using Steps 1-4 of the Turkish Cast On. Work setup row (Row 0) of Berry Rib Pattern (p.4)/Chart A (p.5). HAT: Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 7 times, then work Rows 1-11 oncemore. HEADBAND: Work Rows 1-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A 2 times, then work Rows 1-3 once more. Decrease Row (Hat and Headband) (WS): This row is worked across all stitches; border pattern is NoT worked. Remove markers as you knit. P2tog to last st; p1 (24 sts). Row 1 (RS): Knit. After completing this row, use a tapestry needle to thread contrasting waste yarn through all the stitches on the needle. This will be your "guide line" for completing the bar in Row 8. It will ensure that the bar ends up straight. Rows 2-7: Beginning with WS (purl) row, work Rows 2-7 in st st. Row 8 (Ws): K1, \* with yarn in front, insert needle from top down into the head of the purl st just above the waste yarn guide line below; pick up this loop, place it on LH needle, and purl it together with the next st; rep from \* for every st across row to last st; pu&p 1 st from edge and purl together with last remaining st to smooth the edge across the bar (24 sts). It can be helpful to use a crochet hook for picking up this stitch and the one in Row 9. Work this row somewhat loosely to help with M1F increases in next row. Row 9 (RS): (K1, M1F) 7 times, k10, (k1, M1F) 6 times, pu&k 1 from row below in edge to smooth the edge across the bar, k last st remaining on needle (38 sts). Use your judgment to determine the best spot for picking up the stitch so it pulls the edge into a clean transition across the bar. You're also crossing the pickedup st over the last st.
Section C: Beaded Mesh
SameforHatandHeadband.Note:TheTransitionRowof this sectionreintroducestheborderpattern. Transition Row (WS): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, pm, k1, M1F, purl to last eight sts, M1F, k1, pm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1 (40 sts). Begin Beaded Mesh Pattern (p.4) /Chart B (p.5). Work Rows 1-4 of Beaded Mesh Pattern/Chart B 2 times. WorkRows 1-2 oncemore. Decrease Row (RS): Note: this row is worked across all stitches; border pattern is NOT worked. Remove markers as you knit. (k2tog) 8 times, k8, (k2tog) 8 times (24 sts). Next Row(WS): Purl.
Section D: Bar (Between Mesh and Rib)
Row 9: K1, (k1, M1F) to last st, pu&k 1 from row below in edge to smooth the edge across the bar, k the stitch you just picked up, k last st remaining on needle (47 sts.)
Section E: Berry Rib 2
Work Rows 5-12 of Berry Rib Pattern/Chart A. (Omit bobbles in Row 5; just purl that stitch.) Work Rows 1-12 two times. Work Rows 1-11. Skip to Section G. HEADBAND: Repeat Section A, omitting the first line (because you don't need to cast on any sts!). Continue to Section F. Section F: Continuing the Headband Headband Only Repeat Sections B, C, D. Repeat Section A (omitting the first line). Repeat Sections B, C, D. Continue to Section G.
Section G: Bind Off & Join
Grab the cast-on end and bring it up to meet the working end, with right sides held together and wrong sides facing out. Join the live stitches together with the provisional cast-on stitches using a three needle bind off.
HEADBAND: Stop here. You're done!
Weave in ends, block lightly if you wish, and wear with delight!
Section H: Crown
Step 1: Using smaller circular needle, with RS facing, and starting at the join, fold the upper border down toward you to expose the wrong side of the border sts. Pu&k 160 sts from the last ridge of knit sts in the border, just before (above) the purled sts of the Berry Rib pattern. This will cause the crown of the hat to come up from behind the border stitches. See illustration below:
Step 2: Switch to working needle. Work in st st in the round for 2 inches (5cm) (or longer for a slouchier hat, if you have enough yarn). Round 1: k10, s2kp, [k17, s2kp] 7 times, k7 (144 sts). Round 2 and all even-numbered rounds until Round 18: Knit Round 3: k9, s2kp, [k15, s2kp] 7 times, k6 (128 sts). Round 5: k8, s2kp, [k13, s2kp] 7 times, k5 (112 sts). Round 7: k7, s2kp, [k11, s2kp] 7 times, k4 (96 sts). Round 9: k6, s2kp, [k9, s2kp] 7 times, k3 (80 sts). Round 11: k5, s2kp, [k7, s2kp] 7 times, k2 (64 sts). Round 13: k4, s2kp, [k5, s2kp] 7 times, k1 (48 sts). Round 15: k3, s2kp, [k3, s2kp] 7 times (32 sts). Round 17: k2tog to end (16 sts). Round 18: k2tog to end (8 sts). Draw yarn through sts with tapestry needle and pulltight. Securely weave in end. Weave in remaining ends. Wash and shape lightly to dry. Wear with delight!
STITCHPATTERNS
NOTE: Repeat sts are inside brackets, in bold type.
Berry Rib:
Setup Row (Row 0) (Ws): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, pm, k2, [k4, p2, k1, p, k1, p2, k3], k3, pm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row1 (Rs): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog,k2, sm,p3, [, p2tog,k2, pfb, ktbl, pfb, k2, p2tog, p2], p2, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, swyib, k1. Row . O! wyu, pz, yu, pzuy, pz, o, , no, p, n, pi, n, p, neJ, no, o, pe, pzuy, yo, ni, oi wyuw, ni. Row3: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p3, [p2tog, k2, pfb, p1, ktbl,p1, pfb, k2, p2tog, p1], p2, sm,k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row4: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2,[k2, p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k], k3, sm, p2, p2tog, yo,k1, sl1 wyib,k. Row7: wyif p, y, pto,2 m, ,ktl, [fb,, ptg,p,ptg,k, pf,ktl, p, sm,k, ptg, y,, s wb k1. Row 8: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, [p1, k2, p2, k5, p2, k2],p1, k2, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row9:if, ,yt,,,,t, [,pb,,pt,,t,p,,, ,m,,py, wyib,k1. Row 10: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, [p1, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3], p1, k2, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 11: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p2, MK, [p3, k2, p1, k1tbl, p1, k2, p3, MK], p2, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 12: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k2, [k4, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k3],k3, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1.
Beaded Mesh:
Row 1 (Rs): Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p1, [yo, k2tog], p1, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 2 (Ws): S1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k1, [pB, p3], k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 3: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, sm, p1, [k2tog, yo], p1, sm, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. Row 4: Sl1 wyif, p2, yo, p2tog, p2, sm, k1, [p3, pB],k1, sm, p2, p2tog, yo, k1, sl1 wyib, k1. CHARTA-BERRY RIB
Chart A setup row
