KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS
By Margaret MacInnis c. 2015 Part of the Garden Mystery SeriesII Yarn: Vanna's Choice or other aran-weight yarn 45 g or so (85 yd) Needles: 4.5 mm or Us 7 or size for gauge of 16 st/4 in in garter st Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm or US G or H Yarn Needle, 2 Stitch Markers K: knit P: purl M1: using the horizontal thread between two sts, pick it up and place on left needle, knit into the back of it; an increase which uses no stitches Yo: yarn over k2tog: knit 2 sts together ssk: slip, slip, slip back to left needle, k2tog through back loops pbf: purl back and front of same st, an increase of one st (yes, back, then front—-hard but not impossible) sl2k1p2sso: Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit 2 stitches together, knit1, pass the slip stitches one at a time over the stitch just knitted and drop them Twist 2: knit into second stitch, without taking either off needle, knit into first st, then take both off together. PM: place marker Make bobble: In next st, k1, leave st on left needle, yo, k st again, TURN, knit the three sts, TURN, knit the 3 sts together tightly, continue with work Vinc: increase using the axis/row below stitch on the next st, knit the stitch as we https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWpR4OdFf8
Cast on 33 sts
Work knit 4 rows
Pattern over 19 or total sts indicated only in bold. DID YOU KNIT 4 ROWS FIRST? Row 1: Note: this will feel absolutely ridiculous while you are working it, but it DOES work out. Trust me. RS k2, pbf, m1, k1, p1, k1, m1, pbf, PM, -- k19--,PM, pbf, m1, k1, p1, k1, m1, pbf, k2 (41 sts) Row 2: k4, p2, k1, p2, k2 (purl 19 or number of stitches between markers as indicated), k2, p2, k1, p2, k4 ow 3: k2, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, --(k3, p1) x 4, k3-- p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, k Row 4: rep 2 Row 5: k2, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, -kl, p1, k3, p1, k2, p1, Vinc, p1, k2, p1, k3, p1, k1-, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, k2 (42 sts) Row 6: k4, p2, k1, p2, k2, --p8, k1, p2, k1, p8--, k2, p2, k1, p2, k4 Row 7: k2, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, -- k3, p1, k4, p1, twist 2, p1, k4, p1, k3--, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 8: k4, p2, k1, p2, k2, -p8, k1, p2, k1, p8--, k2, p2, k1, p2, k4 Row 9: k2, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, -k1, p1, k3, p1, k2, p1, twist 2, p1, k2, p1, k3, p1, k1-, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 10: k4, p2, k1, p2, k2, --p8, k1, p2, k1, p8-, k2, p2, k1, p2, k4 Rows 11-14, Rows 15-18, Rows 19-20: Rep Rows 7-10 (twice), Rep Rows 7-8 once more Row 21: k2, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, --k8, p1, twist 2, p1, k8-, p2, twist 2, p1, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 22: k4, p2, Vinc, p2, k2, --k9, k2tog, k9--, k2, p2, Vinc, p2, k4 (43 sts) Row 23: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k19--, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2,k2 Row 24: k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, --k19--, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4 (43 sts) Row 25: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --K1, yo, k1, (p3, k1)4 times, yo, k1-, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 26: k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, (purl 21 or number of stitches between markers as indicated), k2, p2, k2, p2, k4 Row 27: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k2, yo, k1, (p3, k1)4 times, yo, k2--, p2,twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 28: rep 26 (p23) Row 29: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, -k3, yo, k1, (p3, k1)4 times, yo, k3--, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 30: rep 26 (p25) Row 31: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k1, p1, k2, yo, k1, (p2tog, p1, k1) 4 times, yo, k2, p1, k1--, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 32: rep 26 (p23) Row 33: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k3, p1, k1, yo, k1, (p2tog, k1) 4 times, yo, k1, p1, k3--, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 34: rep 26 (p21) Row 35: k2, p2, twist 2, p2,twist 2, p2, --k1, p1, k4, yo,k1, (sl2k1p2sso, k1)twice, yo, k4, p1, k1-,p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 36: rep 26 (p19) Row 37: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k3, p1, k3, yo, k1, sl2kp2sso, k1, yo, k3, p1, k3--, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 38: rep 26 (p19) Row 39: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k1, p1, k3, p1, k2, yo, sl2kp2sso, yo, k2, p1, k3, p1, k1-, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 40: k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, (p9, make bobble—yes, from the wrong side, p9), k2, p2, k2, p2, k4 Row 41: k2, p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, --k19 working snugly over bobble top—if you wish to continue the raindrops, purl them in at the appropriate intervals as (k3, p1)4 times, k3--,p2, twist 2, p2, twist 2, p2, k2 Row 42: rep 26 (p19) Work repeats of Row 41 and 42 if needed to get to length of 7.5 to 7.75", after lightly stretching or steaming sideways. Last 4 rows will add about .75". If you wish to continue the raindrops as well, purl them in on the RS at appropriate intervals. :wist 2, p2tog, twist 2, p2tog, --k19--, p2tog, twist 2, p2tog, twist 2, p2tog, k2 (37 sts Row 44: k3, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, --k19--, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3 (33 sts) Knit 2 more rows, to complete same number of garter ridges as at beginning.
CROCHET BORDER FOR 9" KNIT BLOCKS: Aran-weight
instructions-—goal 27-28 sl stitches per side, including corner st Using crochet hook, pull a loop through between first and second knit rows, on the right. (if you are on the left edge, work from there--it doesn't matter. Work from \*\* and come back around. You will have to move your stitches to another straight if you are working with straights, in order to access the other end whenyoucome around.) Slip first st onto hook, yo, slip through both stitches LOOSELY (corner st made), slip next st onto hook, yo, slip through. \*Slip next 2 sts onto hook, yo, slip through LOOSELY. (Slip next st onto hook, yo, slip through LOOSELY) 5 times.\* Repeat \* to \* to last 6 sts. Continue slipping until 28 sts are reached (including corner st at beg of row), dec again if necessary. \*\*Slip last st from needle onto hook. Insert hook into between last two rows on the left (just under the edge thread there), pull up a loop and slip through all loops on hook (corner st made). When hooking between the rows on the sides, just hook under the first thread, don't go too deeply. Rotate. Working between garter ridges or between seed st edge rows, slip into each in turn. About every 5 or 6 or even 7 stitches, also slip into the row itself using the first 'bump'. If you think about it, this stitch count and the number of increases will depend on how many rows in your complete project. 1 worked 54 rows—so I will have 27 spaces, necessitating once increase along the sides, and a decrease four times along the top and bottom (with 33 stitches coming down to 28, leaving one stitch for the other side corner). The goal is to make the count the same on all four sides. On the top and bottom, decrease as necessary. My personal goal is 27 or 28 stitches per side (including corner st) for the aranweight blocks. Count ahead and determine how many you have to decrease on increase to achieve that, and work the decreases or increases as evenly spaced as you can. Working LOOsELY is mandatory for working the sc or hdc edge after; you'll thank me. SC or HDc edge: Depending on your size required, work a round of sc or hdc. If the block is already 9", fasten off. The sl st edge will be adequate for the crocheters to join with your work. I work 3 sc in each corner st, with a final count of 30 sts per side, or 120 for the block. Finish your last st with an Invisible Join to the first. Resist the urge to MASH it together, work the nice join and finish with pride. Weave in ends securely.
