Ruffled Stole Scarf Wrap Knitting Pattern: Merino Wool Project with Knoetchen-Pattern and Ruffle Detail

Ruffled Stole (Scarf/Wrap)

Somebody asked me how to knit a Ruffle Scarf. I put on my thinking cap, had an idea and picked up the needles. The Ruffle Wrap turned out just like I envisaged, with a discreet center line and a small “Knoetchen"-pattern (like a small bobble, but knit differently) in the flat section. The ruffles required about 1/3 of the total amount of yarn. Material: $2009\cdot3009$ (Merino wool or similar) yardage approx. ${190~\mathsf{m}}$ (approx. 207 yd) / 100 g (recommendation only). Needles 4.5 (European size, i.e. 7 US / UK size) or per choice (80 cm length at first, ruffles require at least a set of 100 cm needles!) Size: 200/250/300 CO (CO $=$ cast on) (With a CO of 300 stitches the wrap has a length of approx. 180 cm and 25 cm width at the center top)

Instructions:

CO 200/250/300 stitches with 4.5 (European size, or 7 UK/US size) needles, place marker at center! Knit 8 rows in garter stitch (row one: knit, row two: knit $=1$ ridge; 8rows $=4$ ridges) The two center stitches are always knit in garter stitch pattern right up to the point where you begin with the ruffle. Continue knitting all flat surfaces in stockinette pattern (except the 2 center stitches!) plus the

Pattern illustration

Pattern illustration

"Knoetchen"-pattern [purl 3 stitches together $=$ p3tog. Do not drop the three (old) stitches from the left needle, k1 and p1 out of the 3 (old) stitches still on the left needle. You have now three new stitches on the right needle $(1\,\mathsf{p}/1\,\mathsf{k}/1\,\mathsf{p})$ .Then drop the 3 old stitches from the left needle.] (see Chart). Configuring the “Knoetchen"-pattern starts at the center. Please make sure that enough stitches are available for the side and top edge due to the short rows (see Chart). There might be a different number of “Knoetchen" to the left and right of the center (see Chart). If you wish to avoid that please start counting before you start knitting. Short rows are used to achieve the triangular shape of the wrap. This is done by not knitting 6/5/5 stitches on the left needle before the end of the row (i.e. starting of the second short row $5/4/4$ stitches before the doubled stitch of the previous row), turn your work and work 1 doubled stitch. If you don't like the doubled stitch, you can also use any other gapless short rows method. Doubled stitch: This stitch is often used when knitting socks for the so-called jo-jo heel. After you turn your work before the end of the row (see above “Short rows"), keep yarn in front of work. Insert the needle from right to left into first stitch, slip stitch and yarn together, pull yarn firmly to the back, the stitch is drawn over the needle and is now doubled, but treated as one stitch (it should look as if you had two stitches on your right needle). The yarn must be pulled firmly in order to avoid holes (see Chart). At 46/56/56 rows (about almost at the right of the center) knit allstitches on right side of work, i.e. ktog the doubled stitches (right side row / RS). Turn work. This is followed by the WS, purling all 200/250/300 stitches, i.e. ptog alldoubled stitches (wrong side row / wS) Turn work. To start the ruffle, double every stitch in row 49/59/59 by doubling every stitch: ktbl [ktbl $=$ knit one stitch through back of loop, ktfl $=$ knit one stitch through front of loop, then let stitch drop from left needle], using a 100 cm needle of the same size. Turn work. Knit 3 rows in stockinette pattern, 400/500/600 stitches. In row 53/63/63 double every other stitch by ktbl/ktfl $=$ 600/750/900 stitches. Following 4 rows in stockinette (starting with the back row on the wrong side of the work) knit 6 rows garter stitch $[=$ knit front and back row] $=3$ ridges (or only 4 rows in garter stitch $=2$ ridges). Bind off(BO)all600/750/900 stitchesby entering the right nedle into the back of the loop of the stitch on the left needle. Weave in ends. Finished! Enjoy!

Pattern illustration

Note:

There is an abbreviated Central Chart for 250 stitches for anybody not wishing or needing to see every stitch, as well as 3 complete Charts for the 3 different sizes with 200/250/300 stitches (every left i.e. right half on one page, respectively). The complete Charts are not translated, for translation you can use the Central Chart. The texts are the same, only the numbers are different.

Information:

Special unanks to Laura on Kaveiry / Lauragais ior tme translalon! I wrote this pattern to the best of my knowledge and ability. I cannot assume responsibility for any errors that might have occurred and wish to apologize in advance should this be the case. The instructions are exclusively intended for private use and may be disseminated for this intended use or purpose, however it may not be used or sold in and for any commercial manner or purpose. Dusseldorf, 11.11.2009 $\circledcirc$ by SaBine Vogelpoth

Pattern illustration

"Knoetchen"-pattern:purl 3stitchestogether $=p3t09$ Do not drop the three old) stitchesfrom the lft needle, k1 and p1 out ( the3(old)stitches stilontheleftneedle.You have nowthree newstitches on theright needle (1p/1k/1p).Thendropthe3old stitchesfromtheleftneedle.

Doubled stitchThis stitch i oftenused whenknitting socsfor the socalled jo-joheelAferyou turned yourwork before the end of therowseabvhrrowkainfrntfwrkerthlefrrighttt intfirststithsttand togetherullafimlytthack,thstitchrawethedeand inuldt tratdsnestitheyam pulled firmly in order to avoid holes! If you don't like the doubled stitch, you can also use any other gapless short rows method.

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