Top Down Tee
By Rebecca Airmet
What could be greater than a multi-functional garment that can be worn in any season and requires almost no finishing? The Top Down Tee is a versatile cap-sleeve tee that can be worn alone as a summer shell or as a layering piece over a long-sleeve blouse or shirt. Because it is worked from the top down with raglan-style shoulder shaping, there are no stitches to pick up, no piecing, and no seams to be sewn, making this a wonderful project for those who dislike "finishing". It requires only one type of increase and a couple of simple decreases. The top can be knit in cotton for a lighter summer feel or in wool or cashmere for a luxurious fall through spring
Sizes:
Small/medium, Medium/large. Shown in size small. Small/medium fits a 24 to 28 inch waist and a 30 to 36 inch bust; Medium/large fits a 28 to 32 inch waist and a 36 to 42 inch bust. Gauge: 4.5 stitches $\times\,6.5$ rows $=1$ inch in stockinette stitch. piece. The coral sample in the pictures has been knit in cotton and the blue sample is a cashmeremerino blend. The bust area has a lot of stretch, making the pattern very suitable for many different sizes, so use your waist measurement to determine what size to knit.
Materials:
Crystal Palace Bamboo needles, US#7-16 in. circular and 26-in. circular. 6 (7) skeins of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran ( ${}\left.90\,\mathrm{m}/50\right.$ g), Rowan All-Seasons Cotton (98 yards/ $50\mathrm{g})$ , or almost any worsted weight yarn with which you can obtain gauge. Five markers, one in a different color.
Stitch Pattern:
Mistake ribbing: Row 1: $\ast\mathrm{K}2$ ， $\mathrm{P}2^{*}$ across. Row 2: $\boldsymbol{*}\mathbf{P}1$ , K2, $\mathbf{P}1^{*}$ across, i.e., K2 P2 off-set from previous row by one stitch. Repeat these two rows.
1x1 ribbing: All rows: $\ast\mathrm{K}1$ ， $\mathbf{P}1^{*}$ across.
Yoke:
Using shorter needles and Long Tail Cast On, CO 100 (112) stitches. Place the differently colored marker (pm) to indicate beg of round, and join circle as follows: Holding working yarn and tail together, knit first two stitches with both strands. Drop tail and continue to knit around (knit every stitch). This join will help prevent the little “jog” often found at the beginning of circular knitting. Row 2: knit around. Be sure to knit through both loops for the first two stitches of the round. Row 3: Slip marker, increase into next stitch (all inc are made by knitting into the front, then into the back (kf/b), pm, inc, K14 (16), inc into next stitch, pm, inc into next stitch, K32 (36), inc, pm, inc, K14 (16), inc, pm, inc, K32 (36) (108 (120) st). Row 4 (and all even rows): knit even. Row 5 (and all odd rows): Inc by k-f/b into each stitch before and after your 4 stitch markers. Take care not to work increases next to the marker for the beg of round. Cont until you have increased a total of 14 (16) rounds (29 (33) total rounds), ending with an increase (odd) row. You should now have 44 (50) st in each shorter section (shoulders) and 62 (70) across front and back (212 (240) st total).
Bind off for Armholes:
Row 30 (34): Knit 15 (17) stitches, to stitch marker, remove marker and bind off 44 (50) stitches (loosely), Remove markers as you come to them. Knit 62 (70) stitches across front (with last stitch from BO counting as “1". B0 44 (50) stitches between last two markers, removing last marker as you come to it, and knit 62 (70) stitches across back, removing Beg st marker as you come to it, and replacing it at the end of the back.
Body:
Row 31 (35): CO 14 (both sizes) stitches under each arm using backward loop method. Cast on snugly. (152 (168) st). Row 32 (36) (and all even rows): Slip marker. Begin Pattern Stitch (Mistake Ribbing): $\ast\mathrm{K}2$ $\mathrm{P}2^{*}$ across. Row 33 (37) (and all odd rows): Slip marker. P1 $\ast\mathrm{K}2$ $\mathbf{P}2^{*}$ to last three st before marker and K2 P1. Repeat rows 32 and 33 (36 and 37) for 5 (5 1/2) in. (approximately 36 (40) rows). Dec Rnd 1: On next row knit 6 st in pattern, then purl 3 st tog at center of underarm. This decrease should occur for the 3 st between the two columns of solid knit stitches. Cont in pattern to center of opposite underarm and purl 3 tog, same as for first underarm. Knit in pattern to end of round. (Note: these decreases should come near the bottom of the bust line. Add extra rows here if the bust line is low.) Dec Rnd 2: Knit next round in pattern. (Purl the 1 rem st between the two solid knit columns at each side where you previously decreased to maintain pattern). Dec Rnd 3: K 6 st in pattern. Knit next 2 st tog. (This is the single center purl st and the knit stitch of the second column of solid knit stitches.) Cont in pattern to other underarm and dec as for first underarm. Dec Rnd 4-7: Knit in pattern around (you will have 2 solid knit columns next to each other at each underarm). Dec Rnd 8: K 5 in pattern, then K2tog (the two solid knit columns) at each underarm (144 (160) st). Continue knitting in pattern for 2 more inches (14 rows) (total of 8 (9) inches in pattern stitch).
Waist:
Begin 1x1 ribbing (beg w/a purl stitch so that the knit ribs line up with the knit columns in the pattern stitch) Knit 5 inches (approximately 32 rows) in 1x1 ribbing, then bind off all stitches knitwise (NOT in 1x1 rib pattern). Note: I recommend trying on the garment as you reach the end of the waist portion so that you can lengthen or shorten as necessary for your body type. No blocking is necessary. If desired, you can lightly steam block the top portion if you want less roll at the neckline and sleeves. NOTES: You can try on the shell as you work by slipping the stitches to waste yarn or by knitting half the stitches onto another long circular needle. You can adjust the length of the piece in either the pattern stitch section or in the waist section, as noted, for an individualized fit.
