HONSVEH KNITS
EILHTEEN
Eighteen is traditional Fair Isle vest, knit in the round with steeks at the neck and armholes. Two additional colorways are suggested on the last page.
Materials
Brown Sheep Company "Nature Spun Sport"( $100\%$ Wool; 184 yds/168m and 13/4 oz/50 grams), 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of #104 Grecian Olive (MC), 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skeins of #103 Deep Sea (CC1), 1 skein each of #148 Autumn Leaves (CC2), #N60 Purple Splendor (CC3), #N42 Royal Purple (CC4), #115 Bit of Blue (CC5), #124 Butterscotch (CC6) One size 4 circular needle, $24^{\prime\prime}$ or $32^{\prime\prime}$ One size 2 circular needle, $16^{\prime\prime}$ or $24^{\prime\prime}$ Stitch markers Stitch holders Safety pin, or locking stitch marker Scissors Darning needle Optional: point protectors - to keep stitches from slipping off needle tips
$32^{\prime\prime}\,(\,\,36^{\prime\prime},\,40^{\prime\prime},\,44^{\prime\prime},\,48^{\prime\prime})$ finished measurement
Gauge
6 stitches/inch and 6 rows/inch in pattern Note: For swatch purposes the gauge is 6 stitches/inch on size 4 needles in stockinette stitch.
Legends and Stitches Used
beg - beginning, BO - bind off, CC - Contrast Color, CO - cast on, cont - continue, dec - decrease, K- knit, MC- Main Color, P- purl, pm - place marker, patt - pattern, RS - right side, rep - repeat, sm - slip marker, st(s) - stitch(es)
Steeks and Edge Stitches
Steeks are extra stitches added to the knitting to bridge the gap caused by armholes, necklines, and/or front bands on cardigans. They allow for the ease of knitting in the round. The steeks in this pattern require casting on 10 stitches over the appropriate openings. The $1^{\mathrm{st}}$ and $10^{\mathrm{th}}$ stitches are edge stitches and will be knit using that round's background color. Ribbing stitches are picked up in the edge stitches. Color changes happen in the middle of the steek, and the patterning of the steek alternates, like a checkerboard. For more information see: Alice Starmore's Book of Fair Isle Knitting and/or www.eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/01/the_steeking_chronicles.html
Vest
Waistband
Using larger needles, C0 192 (216, 240, 264, 288) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place a marker for beginning of round. Work in K2, p2 rib until waistband measures $2^{\prime\prime}\left(2^{\prime\prime},\,2^{\prime\prime},\,2^{1}\!/_{2}^{\prime\prime},\,2^{1}\!/_{2}^{\prime\prime}\right)$ from cast on edge.
Body
(Note: To keep track of colors and symbols, attach pieces of each yarn color by the corresponding Stitch Legend.) Begin following the chart at appropriate starting point for your size, repeating the sections between the bold lines. Repeat Rounds $\mathtt{1}-54$ until the vest measures $11^{\prime\prime}\left(13^{\prime\prime},\,13^{\prime\prime},\,14^{\prime\prime},\,14^{\prime}/{2}^{\prime\prime}\right)$ to armholes. Lengthen or shorten the vest here.
36" 40″ 44" 32" and
Dividing for Armholes and Neck
At beg of round, knit 10 sts for part of Left Armhole and place these stitches on stitch holder. Knit in pattern 37 (43, 49, 55, 61) sts; knit next stitch (center stitch) and place on safety pin; Knit in pattern 37 (43, 49, 55, 61) sts; knit in pattern 21 sts for Right Armhole and place these sts on stitch holder; knit in pattern 75 (87, 99, 111, 123) sts across Back, placing the last 11 sts on the first stitch holder. Cut yarn. 149(173, 197, 221, 245) total sts on needle.
Adding Steeks
At Left Armhole, place marker, CO 10 sts to left-hand needle. (See Steek and Edge Stitches on page 2.) Pm, Patt to Center Stitch, pm, CO 10 sts (center steek), pm; patt to Right Armhole, pm, CO 10 sts, pm; Patt across Back, pm, and then knit to center of Left Armhole Steek. This is now the new beginning of round and all color changes will happen here. (There should be markers at the beginning and end of every steek - marker, edge stitch, 8 middle steek stitches, edge stitch, marker)
Armhole and Neck Shaping
Note: The shaping of the armholes and neck happen at the same time. Read both (Armhole and Neck) instructions that follow. Armhole - Dec 1 st on each side of both armholes on the next round. Then decrease 1 stitch on each side of armholes every other round 1 (4, 6, 8, 10) times. After the decrease rounds, work armholes without further shaping. 71 (77, 85, 93, 101) sts for back between steeks, after shaping.
And, at the same time:
Neck - Dec 1 st at each side of neck edge on next round and then every following 6 (6, 7, 8, 9) rounds. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other round until there are 15(17, 19, 22, 24) sts between markers for the left and right fronts. Continue in patt until the armholes measure $81\!/\!_{2}\!^{\prime\prime}\,(9^{\prime\prime},\,91\!/\!_{2}\!^{\prime\prime},\,10^{\prime\prime},\,11^{\prime\prime}).$
Shaping Back Neck
Divide all stitches for Front and Back. On a holder or spare needle, place 5 sts from Left Armhole steek, Front Left and Front Right sts (including the 10 sts from Front steek), and 5 sts from Right Armhole steek. 50 (54, 58, 64, 68) sts on Front needle or holder. Working on Back stitches with RS facing, rejoin yarns and cont in patt over 5 steek sts, and then 21 (23, 25, 28, 30) sts from Right Back, dec 1 st at neck edge. Cut yarns and place un-worked 55 (59, 65, 70, 76) sts on holder. Right Back Shoulder - With RS facing, and breaking yarns at end of every row, work in patt 5 more rows, while dec one st at each neck edge. 15 (17, 19, 22, 24) sts remain, excluding steeks. Left Back Shoulder - Place 29 (31, 35, 37, 41) sts for Center Back Neck on holder. Place rem 26 (28, 30, 33, 35) sts for Left Back Shoulder on needle. With RS facing, and breaking yarns at end of every row, work in patt 6 rows, while dec 1 st at each neck edge. Pattern will match Right Back Shoulder. BO all Back sts, including steeks.
Front
Attach yarn at Left Armhole. With RS facing, and breaking yarns at the end of every row, work in pattern for 6 rows. Pattern will match Back Shoulders. BO all Front sts, including steeks.
Cut Steeks
Sew shoulder seams together, including the steek edge stitches. Carefully cut between $5^{\mathrm{th}}$ and $6^{\mathrm{th}}$ steek stitches for the full length of the steeks at armholes and neck.
Armhole Ribbing
Using MC and smaller needle in $16^{\prime\prime}$ or $24^{\prime\prime}$ length, knit across sts on holder, pick up and knit, in edge stitch, one stitch for every row around armhole. The total number of stitches must be a multiple of $4;$ adjust stitches, if needed. Join, placing marker at beginning of round. Work in K2, p2 rib for 8 rounds. BO in pattern.
Neck Ribbing
With RS facing and beginning at bottom of Right Neck, use MC to pick up and knit, in edge stitch, one stitch for every row to Right Shoulder, down Right Back Shoulder, across neck stitches on holder, up Left Back Shoulder, and down Left Neck. The stitch count must be a multiple of $4,$ plus 2. Then knit the Center Stitch from safety pin. Join, placing marker at beg of round. Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds as follows: Rnd 1: K2, p2 to last 3 sts; k1, slip 2 sts as if to knit, k1, pass slipped sts over knit st. (The marker will need to be moved one st to the left, on every round.) Rnd 2: K1, $*_{\mathsf{p}2},\,\mathsf{k}2;$ rep from \* to last 4 sts; p2, slip 2 sts as if to knit, k1, pass slipped sts over knit st. Rnd 3: P2, k2 to last 3 sts; p1, slip 2 sts as if to knit, k1, pass slipped sts over knit st. Rnd 4: P1, $\ast\mathsf{k}2.$ p2; rep from \*to last4sts; k2, slip 2sts as ifto knit, k1, pass slipped sts over knit st. Rep Rounds 1 - 4 once more. BO in pattern. Weave in ends.
Trim and Secure Steeks
Carefully trim the cut ends of steeks to 2 stitches from the edge stitches. Using a thinner yarn (DMC makes a very thin wool embroidery floss), whip stitch through he middle of the steek stitch closest to the edge stitch, and then into the inside of the vest body. Be careful not to have stitches show on Rs. Stitch diagonally in one direction and then return at the different diagonal, creating X's.
Grey
Brown #720 Ash - MC #136 Chocolate Kisses - CC1 #701 Stone - CC2 #880 Charcoal - CC3 #601 Pepper - CC4 #N03 Grey Heather - CC5 #N91 Aran - CC6 #N94 Bev's Bear - MC #200 Bordeaux - CC1 #144 Limestone - CC2 #N17 French Clay - CC3 #101 Burnt Sienna - CC4 #N89 Roasted Coffee - CC5 #308 Sunburst Gold - CC6
