Orwell Bridge scarf
by Alison Hawke (QuantumTea) This is a scarf designed to bridge the gap between the neck and the end of the coat, when you don't want the bulk of a full scarf. It is named for the Orwell Bridge in Suffolk, England, which I've been across many times. I love the look of stocking stitch but not how it curls. In this pattern the tubular construction prevents curling, and a double-thickness scarf keeps the gap between coat and neck warm. Make with one skein of luxurious yarn as a quick gift, I used Great Northern Yarns 7o% mink 30% cashmere yarn and 1oo% yak yarns for soft scarves.
Skills required: cable cast on, M1 using the bar between stitches, knitting in the round. Gauge: 6.5 to 7 stitches per inch (exact gauge not required) Needles: US4 and US3 circulars or double points, stitch holder. Materials: 2oo yards of soft sport weight yarn, scrap yarn in a contrasting colour.
Notes:
Long tails are left on joins and breaks to reinforce the points where you start and stop working in the round. Your definition of “long" may vary, mine is 8 to 1o inches of yarn. A women's scarf should take around 2oo yards of yarn. A man's scarf may take more, depending on neck size. US4 needles, CO 9 stitches using the cable cast on method and knit one ro1 Work in garter stitch as follows: k1, m1, k to end (m1 by picking up bar between stitches) Increase to 30st, then knit 6 rows.
Change to US3 needles and knit one row.
Split for a slot by putting each alternate stitch on a different needle or stitch holder, ending with 15 stitches on each needle. If you can leave one set of stitches on the cable of a circular needle, it will be easier to work with the other set of stitches,
Working on one set of stitches, work slot ribbing in this pattern: Row 1: k1 (p1, k1) repeat to end. Row 2: p1 (k1, p1) repeat to end. Repeat until the slot is 2 inches long. Break the yarn, leaving a long tail to reinforce the opening of the scarf. Do not weave this end in yet, you will need it very soon. Join yarn, leaving a long tail, and knit the second set of slot stitches the same way but do not break the yarn. Start working in the round using all slot stitches, and knit one round. Tie a piece of scrap yarn through the garter stitch tab to mark the front of the scarf so you know where the start of the round is. Go back to US4 needles and increase to a 58st tube: Round 1: k1, m1, k to one stitch before end, m1, k1. Repeat on back of scarf. Round 2: knit all stitches. Once you get to 58 st, measure how long the increase section is and note it down. Then change to this pattern: p1, k27, p1, repeat on back. Work a couple of rounds, then use the two ends of yarn from the slot to reinforce the edges where you start working in the round. Weave the cast on end into the tube. Pattern ? Alison Hawke 2011
Measure your target neck and add 2 inches. That is how long your tube needs to be, including the increase and decrease sections. If you want a looser scarf, add more than two inches. Knit until your tube is long enough, remembering to take account of the decrease section to come, it will be the same length as your increase section, which you measured earlier.
Decrease to 30st:
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to three stitches before the end of the side, k2tog, k1. Repeat on back of scarf. Round 2: knit all stitches. Your tube should now measure the target length of neck circumference plus 2 inches. Switch to US3 needles and knit one round. Working on front 15 stitches only, work in ribbing for a slot as described above. Break the yarn leaving a long tail. Join yarn, leaving a long tail, and work the other side of the slot. Using the two tails of yarn, reinforce the edges of the tube where you split for the slot. Knit alternating stitches from each slot until you have 30 stitches on one needle. Switch to US4 needles and work 6 rows. Start decreases as follows: k1, ssk, k to end of row. Decrease until you have 9 stitches, then cast off. Weave the final end in. Block lightly, using wires or thread to pull out the purl columns on each side of the tube, wear, and stay warm!
