The Paige Babydoll is a sister pattern to the Kaia Babydoll. It is a simple, yet gorgeous, babydoll top. There are two skirt options, a full skirt with two hems to choose from, or an A-line cabled skirt.
This top is a seamless top down garment, knit in the round on circular needles. It can be knitted in wool for spring/autumn and winter or in cotton for summer. Both plain and variegated yarns are well suited to the pattern.
Yarn Requirements
10ply/worsted weight yarn - main colour and contrast colour. Some suggested yarns $\bigcirc$ Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 10ply 100purewool 3ply Gaia Worsted Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece OTIG Springvale Super Merino OJo Sharp Desert Garden Aran Cotton
Gauge/Tension
20st/10cm (5st/1")
You will need
4.5mm circular needle (or size to achieve correct gauge) 30, 40 and 60 cm 4mm circular needle (40 or 60cm depending on size) 5mm circular needle (for full skirt option) 40 and 60cm Approx 1 - 1.5m ribbon/i-cord/crochet chain 5 stitch markers Cable needle
Yarn Meterage Required (approx.)
This chart gives the approximate meterage required to knit the Paige Babydoll. As always when knitting, it is a good idea to have some yarn in reserve just in case.
Abbreviations
coCast off MCMain colour yarn CC - Contrast colour yarn Kknit Ppurl Pm - place marker Kfb - Knit front and back. Knit into the front of the stitch, then into the back of the same stitch. Sm - slip marker soRM - start of round marker Ssk - Slip, Slip, Knit - slip one stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit, stick point of left needle in two slipped stitches in front of the right needle and knit C4F - cable 4 stitches to the front. Place first two stitches on cable needle and hold in front of work. Knit the next two stitches then knit the two stitches off the cable needle C4B - cable 4 stitches to the back. Place two stitches on cable needle and hold behind work. Knit the next two stitches then knit the two stitches off the cable needle. M1 - From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop
Size nb (3m, 6m, 9m, 12m, 18m, 2y, 3y,4y, 5y)
To fit chest measurement of: - 38(40.5,43,45.5,48,51,53.5,56,58.5,61)cm. 15(16, 17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24) inches. Using 4.5mm 30 or 40cm needle and MC Cast on 52(58,62,64,70,74,78,82, 86, 90) stitches. Round 1 - Using a marker to show start of round and ensuring work isn't twisted, join in the round:- Nb p12, pm, p14, pm, p12, pm, p14. 3m p13,pm, p16,pm, p13,pm, p16. 6m p 14, pm, p17,pm, p14,pm, p17. 9m p14, pm, p18,pm, p14, pm, p18. 12m p15,pm, p20,pm, p15,pm, p20. 18m p16, pm, p21,pm, p16, pm, p21. 2T p17, pm, p22,pm, p17,pm, p22. 3T p18, pm, p23,pm, p18, pm, p23. 4T p19, pm, p24, pm, p19, pm, p24. 5T p20, pm, p25,pm, p20, pm,p25. Round 2 - \*kfb, knit to 2 stitches before marker, kfb, k1 sm; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 3- purl. Round $4-{^{*}\mathsf{k}}\mathsf{f}\mathsf{b}$ , knit to 2 stitches before marker, kfb, k1 sm; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 5- knit. Round $6-4k+b.$ , knit to 2 stitches before marker, kfb, k1 sm; repeat from \* to end of round. Repeat rounds 5 & 6 4(4, 4,4, 5, 5,5,6,6, 6) more times (so there will be 7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) sets of increases so far). There will be 26 (27, 28, 28, 31, 32, 33, 36, 37, 38) stitches between SORM and the next marker. Round 7 - purl to marker, sm, knit to marker, sm, purl to marker, sm, knit to end of round. Round 8- repeat round 6. Round 9 - repeat round 7. You will now have a total of 116 (122, 126, 128, 142, 146, 150, 162, 166, 170) stitches. Round 10 - Removing stitch markers as you come to them. \*Cast off all the stitches between SORM marker and the next marker, knit to next marker. Repeat from \* to end of round. You will now have two sets of 30(32, 33, 34, 38, 39, 40, 43, 44, 45) stitches for the front and back on your needle. Using backwards loop or cable cast on, C0 2(3, 3, 4, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) stitches, place marker to show beginning of round. Cast on another 2(3, 3, 4, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) stitches. Knit to next armhole. Cast on 4(6, 6, 8, 6, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12) stitches. Knit t0 end of round. (Please refer to the end of the pattern where I explain how I neaten up the underarm cast on and get rid of the hole that often occurs.) You should have a total of 68(76, 78,84, 88, 94, 100, 106, 108, 114) stitches. Knit 3(4,4,5,5,6,7,8,10, 10) rounds Change to 4mm (or one size smaller than gauge) needles and CC, Round 1 - knit. Round 2 - purl. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 1(1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2,2, 2, 2) more times. Round 3 - \*yo, k2tog, repeat from \* to end of round. Round 4 - purl. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 1(1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2,2, 2, 2) more times. Change back to main yarn and knit a round. Continue to skirt options - either Full skirt or Cabled A-line.
Full skirt option
Change to 5mm needles (or one size bigger than gauge) and main colour. \*Kfb, k1, repeat from \* to end of round. 102(114, 117,126, 132, 141, 150, 159, 162,171) stitches. Knit straight until garment measures 27(30, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) cm from top of shoulder. If you are going to do a Feather and Fan hem, knit to 1cm less than suggested above.
There are two hem options - Garter and Feather & Fan. Continue on to preferred hem.
Garter Hem
This hem pulls the skirt in and gives it a slight bubble shape. If you prefer to not have the ‘bubble' look then use the same size needles that you used to knit the skirt. Change to CC and 4mm needles (or one size smaller than gauge) Round 1 - knit. Round 2 - purl. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 2(2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times for a total of 6(6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds. Loosely cast off.
Feather and Fan Hem
In the next row you will be increasing to get a stitch count that is a multiple of 12 stitches, which is required for the feather and fan pattern. For all sizesexcept $^{12}\mathsf{m}$ :(knit 17(19,39,21,-,47,25,17,27,19), m1) 6 (6,3, 6,-,3,6, 9,6, 9) times, k0 (0, 0,0, -, 0, 0, 6,0, 0). Size 12m - Knit a round. You will now have 108(120, 120, 132, 132, 144, 156, 168, 168, 180) stitches. Purl a round. The next 4 rows make up the Feather and Fan pattern; Row I - knit. Row 2 - knit. Row 3 - \* (K 2 tog) 2 times, (YO, K 1) 4 times, (K 2 tog) 2 times, repeat from \*. Row 4 - purl. Repeat rows 1 -4 1(1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more times. Change to CC and knit a round. Purl 1 round. Bind off loosely. Block garment and add a ribbon or i-cord through the eyelets if desired.
Cabled A-line skirt
Using 4.5mm needles and main yarn; Remove S0RM k3, pm, knit 28(32, 33,36, 38,41, 44, 47,48, 51), pm, k6, pm, knit 26(30, 31, 34,36, 39, 42,45,46, 49). Place SORM. (The start of the round will now be 5 stitches before where it was originally) Knit 2 stitches, pm, knit to end of round. The following section forms the cable A-line pattern Round 1 - \*knit to marker, yo, sm, knit to marker, sm, yo; repeat from \* once and knit to end of round. Round 2 - \*knit to marker, sm, C4F, k2, sm; repeat from \* once and knit to end of round. Round 3 - \* knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, yo, sm, knit to marker, sm, yo, k2tog; repeat from \* once and knit tc end of round. Round 4 - \*knit to marker, sm, k2, C4B, sm; repeat from \* once and knit to end of round. Repeat Rounds 1 -4 until garment measures 28(30, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) cm from top of shoulder.
Hem Change to CC. Round 1 - knit. Round 2- purl. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3,3,3) more times for a total of 6(6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds. Loosely cast off. Block garment and add a ribbon or i-cord through the eyelets if desired. I want to say a very VERY special thank you to my wonderful testers, without who this pattern would just be one of those fleeting ideas in my head. Thank you so much Kathryn, Kath, Margaret, Natalya, Nat, Ali, Deanne, Becca, Kylie, Odette, Helen, Tasha, Jacquie, Julia, Sheryl, Lauren, Krissie, Rachael, Elaine, Christine and Shannon. Also a big thank you to Georgie, my tech editor @button & bean designs 2010
Getting rid of the underarm holes (after casting on)
1. Knit 3 rounds after casting on under the arms.
4. This will pull the ‘hole' tight, firming up the stitch, making the underarm look much neater.
2. Directly above the ‘hole,' pick up the back loop of the stitch that is loose (that creates the hole look) Twist it once or twice and put it on the left needle. 5. This is what it looks like from the inside.
3. Knit that stitch together with the next stitch on the needle.
The copyright of this pattern remains with the author - Rachel Evans, button & bean designs. Thispattern isintendedforpersonalhomeuseonly.Anycommercial useof thispattern without written permission from the author is in violation of copyright. If you wish to sell garmentsfrom thispattern,a cottagelicenseis available.PleasecontactmeonRavelryunder theusernameCraftyWeeWifeyorbyemail atbuttonandbeandesigns@slingshot.co.nz @button & bean designs 2010
