Fault Lines
By Jennifer Pattison (Rebelicious on Ravelry)
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What you will need:
Yarn: 1 ball of Wendy Roam Fusion (4ply/fingering weight, 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 404yds per 100g) or any similar 4ply/fingering weight sock yarn. Marled, tweed, Donegal, and other similarly rustic yarns are ideal. Tonal, solid, semi-solid and gradient yarns will also work well, but self striping yarns may obscure the pattern. 2.25mm needles (DPN, circular or magic loop as preferred) or needles sized to obtain a gauge of 9 stitches and 13 rows per inch in stocking stitch. 2.75mmneedlesforcaston. Appropriatelysizedcableneedle Stitch markers as required. Wool needle for grafting the toes. You may also like to use a 2-3mm (approx) crochet hook for picking up stitches along edges of heel flap.
Abbreviations:
K -Knit P-Purl C3F - Slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 3, thenknit stitches from cable needle. C3B - Slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3, then knit stitches from cable needle. SL - Slip stitch purlwise. SSK - Slip, slip knit. (Or Slip 1, Knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. Either way, the result is the same.) P2Tog - Purl 2 stitches together. K2Tog - Knit 2 stitches together.
Cast On:
Using 2.75mm needles and the cable cast on method, cast on 72 stitches. You can substitute a different stretchy cast on if preferred. Join in the round, place stitch marker if needed, and switchto2.25mmneedles. Cuff: Knit 12 round as follows: (K1, P1)\* to end of round. Knit one round of stocking stitch.
Leg:
Round 1:P12,C3F,C3B,P24,C3F,C3B,P12 Rounds 2-10: Knit all stitches. Knit these 10 rounds a total of five times (more repeats for longer leg, less for a shorter leg) then knit rounds 1 and 2 once more.
Heel Flap:
The heel flap is worked back and forth over the first 36 stitches, the other half of the stitches are held inactive. See notes at the end of the pattern for heel flap/gusset variations if you have a higher or lower instep. Row 1: (SL1, K1)\* to end of row. Turn work. Row 2: SL1, P35.Turn work. Knit these 2 rows a total of 18 times.
Heel Turn:
Row 1: SL1,K22,SSK,K1,turn work. Row 2: SL1, P11, P2Tog, P1, turn work. Row 3: SL1, K12, SSK, K1, turn work. Row 4: SL1, P13, P2Tog, P1, turn work. Row5: SL1,K14,SSK,K1,turn work. Row 6: SL1, P15, P2Tog, P1, turn work. Row7: SL1,K16,SSK,K1,turn work. Row 8: SL1, P17, P2Tog, P1, turn work. Row 9: SL1, K18, SSK, K1, turn work. Row 10: SL1, P19, P2Tog, P1, turn work. Row 11: SL1, K20, SSK, K1, turn work. Row 12: SL1, P21, P2Tog,P1, turn work.
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Gusset decreases:
This moves back into working in the round. Round 1: SL1, Knit 23 (the heel stitches), Pick up and knit 20 stitches along the side of the heel flap, one in each of the slipped stitches, and two more before the held stitches, K36 (the previously held stitches), then pick up and knit 20 stitches along the other side of the heel flap, K12. This is the new start of round point, the middle of the underside of the foot. You should have a total of 100 stitches. Round 2: K30, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K30 Round 3: K98 Round 4: K29, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K29 Round 5: K96 Round 6: K28, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K28 Round 7: K94 Round 8: K27, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K27 Round 9: K28, P12, C3F, C3B, P12, K28 Round 10: K26, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K26 Round 11: K90 Round 12: K25, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K25 Round 13: K88 Round 14: K24, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K24 Round 15: K86 Round 16: K23, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K23 Round 17: K84 Round 18: K22, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K22 Round 19: K23,P12, C3F, C3B,P12,K23 Round 20: K21, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K21 Round 21: K80 Round 22: K20, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K20 Round 23: K78 Round 24: K19, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K19 Round 25: K76 Round 26: K18, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K18 Round 27: K74 Round 28: K17, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K17 Round 29: K18, P12, C3F, C3B, P12, K18 Round 30: K16, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K16 Round 31: K70 Round 32: K15, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K15 Round 33: K68 Round 34: K14, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K14 Round 35: K66 Round 36: K13, K2Tog, k36, SSK, K13 Round 37: K64 Round 38: Knit all stitches.
Foot:
Round 1:K14,P12,C3F,C3B,P12,K14. Rounds 2-10: Knit all stitches. Knit these 10 rounds a total of four times (more repeats for longer foot, less for a shorter foot) then knit rounds 1 and 2 oncemore.
Toe setup:
Knit 16 stitches. This will be your new start of round, with the first 32 stitches comprising the top of the toe and the second 32 stitchesbeing the underside.
Finishing:
Cut yarn, leaving an approx 40cm/16" tail. Thread this through the wool needle and graft the remaining 28 toe stitches together using Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends, then do it all over againfor thesecondsock.
Notes on heel flap/gusset sizing adjustments:
You can work less repeats of the heel flap rows for a shorter heel flap or more for a longer one. If doing this you will need to consider the following adjustments: When picking up the stitches along the side of the heel flap you will need to pick up 2 more stitches than the number of heel flap repeats you did. If you picked up more or less than 20 stitches along the heel flap sides, you will need to work out your gusset decrease rounds as per this formula: K(%2n), K2Tog, k36, SSK, K(%2n) where “n" equals the total number of stitches minus 40. As written, rounds 9, 19 and 29 ofthegussetdecreasesectionincludethepurlandcable sections of the pattern so these rounds and any additional pattern rounds (ie round 39 if you need one) will need to follow this formula: K(%n), P12, C3F, C3B, P12, K(%n) where "n" equals the total number of stitches minus 36. When you have decreased down to 64 stitches, knit as many rows as required so that there are 9 rows since your last purl and cable row. Then continue with the foot pattern.
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Toe Decreases:
Round 1: K1, SSK, K26, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K26, K2Tog, K1 Round 2:K60 Round 3: K1, SSK, K24, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K24, K2Tog, K1 Round 4:K56 Round 5: K1, SSK, K22, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K22, K2Tog, K1 Round 6:K52 Round 7: K1, SSK, K20, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K20, K2Tog, K1 Round 8: K48 Round 9: K1, SSK, K18, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K18, K2Tog, K1 Round 10: K44 Round 11: K1, SSK, K16, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K16, K2Tog, K1 Round 12:K40 Round 13: K1, SSK, K14, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K14, K2Tog, K1 Round 14:K36 Round 15: K1, SSK, K12, K2Tog, K2, SSK, K12, K2Tog, K1 Round 16: K32