ADAMA SHAWL
DESIGNED BY MIRIAm L. FELTON
"Adamas" in Greek means indomitable or untamable. This name was given to diamonds because of their ability to scratch anything, while not being scratched themselves. The diamond motif in this shawl was adapted from the pattern for a bread cloth in Sophia Caulfeild's Dictionary of Needlework, first published in 1882.
SPECIFICATIONS
Yarn: 700-800 yards of laceweight yarn. Sample is shown in KnitPicks Shadow in the Lost Lake colorway Needles: 3.75mm (US 5) 24" or 30" circular Gauge: 4.5 sts and 6 rows per inch square after blocking Finished Sizes: 72" across the top and 36" from neck to point Notions: 4 stitch markers (more may be used to mark the pattern repeats in the lace, if desired), tapestry needle to weave in ends
ABBREVIATIONS
k: knit p: purl k2tog: knit 2 together yo: yarn over sl: slip tbl: through the back loop ssk: slip 2 sts separately knit-wise, then knit them together tbl. sl1, k2tog, psso: slip 1 stitch, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over. RS: Right Side of work Ws:WrongSideofwork
ConStructiOn:
This shawl is worked from the neck down, using yarn overs on each end of each right side row to shape the "wings" and paired yarn overs in the center of each right side row (separated by a center stitch) to shape the point down the spine. These 4 increased stitches are added every right side row, making each row successively longer than the last, so that what started with 5 stitches cast on, ends with hundreds.
Notes:
· All wrong side rows are worked with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch and all stitches between purled. ?If you desire a shorter or longer shawl, just reduce or increase the repeats of Chart 2. All charts are also given with text transcriptions of the chart. The chart legend is on page 3 of this pattern. 4 main markers are used. After being placed while working row 3 the 2 on the ends separate the garter edge stitches on each side of the shawl from the body, and the two in the middle flank the center stitch. Markers are mentioned when they are placed, and not mentioned thereafter. They should simply be slipped when you come to them. You may choose to place stitch markers to denote lace repeats (the red lines onthechart). If you use stitch markers to mark lace repeats, at the beginning of every repeat of Chart 2 you will need to shift these repeat markers and add new ones as you increase the number of stitches in the row. If you are using stitch markers for every repeat, every time a double decrease is next to a stitch marker, you will have to borrow'stitches from the other side of the marker to complete the double decrease, so for instance, in Chart #2, row 9, the decrease should be worked as follows: slip 2 stitches separately, remove marker, slip one stitch back to the left hand needle, k2tog, psso, re-place marker and continue on.
PaTTerN:
-Cast on 5 sts using a cable cast on. Row 1: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2 (7 sts). Row 2: k2, p3, k2. Row 3: k2, pm, yo, k1, yo, pm, k1 (center stitch), pm, yo, k1, yo, pm, k2 (11 sts). Row 4: k2, p7, k2. Row 5: k2, yo, k3, yo, k1 (center stitch), yo, k3, yo, k2 (15 sts). Row 6: K2, p11, k2.
-Work Rows 1-20 of Chart 1 -Work Rows 1-10 of Chart 2, 14 times -Work Rows 1-12 of Chart 3
Once Chart 3 is complete, bind off VERY LOOSELY on RS as follows: K2, \*slip left hand needle into those 2 sts through the front and in front of the right hand needle, k2tbl. K1, repeat from \* until all stitches are bound off. Pull end through final stitch. Weave in ends.
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yo,k3 (k2, yo , k3, yo, ssk, yo, k
K3, yo, sk, yo, gy 1.0 \*\*Repeats are marked by bolded text within parentheses. Center stitch is underlined.
