FIRST TIME SOCKS TOP-DOWN MAGIC LOOP TECHNIQUE
Yarn:
436 yds /400m of fingering weight yarn or 436 yds /400m of sport weight yarn or 436 yds /400m of worsted weight yarn
Needles:
US 1/2.25 mm 32" circular -fingering weight or US 2/2.75 mm 32" circular -fingering weight or US 3/3.25 mm 32" circular - sport weight or US 6/4 mm 32" circular - worsted weight Glossary: k2tog: knit 2 together RS: Right side skp: slip one st knitwise, knit one st, pass the slipped stitch over (this action is like a bind-off). WS: Wrong side
Sizes:
Men's sizes: 48 st worsted, 56 st sport, 60 st fingering Ladies' sizes: 44 st worsted , 52 st sport, 56 st fingering
Notes:
·Always slip stitches purlwise, except when working normal decreases; those should be slipped knitwise.
Cast-On and Set-Up:
Using the German Twisted Cast-On link, cast on 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts. Using the Magic Loop Tutorial link, slide all sts onto the cable portion of the needle. Find midpoint of the 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts and pull cable up between the sts (you will have 22 (24, 26, 28, 30 sts on each side of the cable.) Push both sets of sts down toward the tips of the needles. Join stitches in the round, taking care that stitches are not twisted.
Ribbing and Leg:
Work a k2, p2 rib for 2". Important Note: For the 44, 52, & 60 stitch sizes, to stay in pattern, you will be beginning with purl sts on the second half of thecable.
Work in stockinette st until sock leg is desired length. Note: When beginning the heel stitch, you will be working flat - or back and forth in rows - rather than circularly. You will only be working the stitches on the back cable. To set up, begin with all the sts up on both tips of the needle and pull out the front needle to become your working needle (this action is the opposite of working Magic Loop in the round).
Heel Stitch:
With work positioned so that the interior purl side is facing, work as follows: Row 1 (WS): Slip 1, p to the end. Row 2 (RS): \*Slip 1, k1\* to the end. Repeat these 2 rows until there are 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) rows of the heel stitch worked. Note: If you are working the heavier weight yarn with fewer stitches, you may want to work moreheel stitch rows to make sure that your heel flap is deep enough. A good rule of thumb is if you fold the heel flap down at a right angle, it should form a complete triangle when the edge of the heel flap and the edge of the lioe sts meet. Note: Since the slipped sts are quite prominent, they are easy to use when counting rows.Each slipped st counts as two rows, s0 count 14 (14, 14, 14, 15) slipped stitches to equal the 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) rows needed.
Turning the heel:
Row 1 (WS): Slip 1, p11 (12, 13, 14, 15), p2tog, p1, turn Row 2 (RS): Slip 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn. Note: At this point, look at your work and you should see a gap between the sts on the needle where you turned and worked back (see fig. 1). This is what you are looking for to work the next two rows. Fig. 1
Row 3: Slip 1, p until 1 st remains before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1, k until 1 st remains before the gap, ssk, k1, turn. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all sts are worked.
For the 44, 52, & 60 stitch sizes:
The last two rows will not have the single stitch to work after the decreases. Note: Don't get your knickers in a twist about getting the exact number of sts called for when picking up the gusset stitches. If you're a stitch or two off, don't worry about it; just make sure you pick up the same amount on the other side. Picking up gusset stitches to join back in round: Starting on right side of heel gusset, pull out Working needle tip from heel sts and pick up 12 (13, 14, 15 16) sts up the side of the heel flap, going under both strands of the chain stitch. Knit across instep stitches. Pull out working needle tip to give yourself more cable and pick up 12 (13, 14, 15 16) sts down the other side of the heel flap. You are now joined back in the round. Redistribute sts on cables so that all the instep sts are on one side of the cable and all the heel and gusset sts are on the other side of the cable. Pull cables through at those 2 junctures. Place a stitch marker at the far right of the heel and gusset sts to designate the new beginning of round. Work to the end of cable 1 (heel & gusset sts), then to the end of cable 2 (instep sts). You are now set up to begin the gusset decreases.
Decreasing Gusset Stitches: Round 1:
Cable 1 (Heel & Gusset sts): k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1. Cable 2 (Instep sts): Knit (no decreases on this side of the cable!) Round 2: k Repeat these two rounds (alternating a decrease round with a round of plain knitting) until there are 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts on each side of the cable. Continue knitting without shaping until sock reaches the bottom of your little toe. Toe Decreases: Round 1: Cable 1 (Heel & Gusset sts): k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1. Cable 2 (Instep sts): k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1. Round 2: k Repeat these two rounds (alternating a decrease round with a round of plain knitting) until 12 sts remain on each side of the cable (24 sts total). Break yarn leaving a tail approximately three times the length of the toe seam.
Join Toe with Kitchener Stitch:
Use Kitchener Stitch Tutorial link for video help. Threading the yarn tail with a blunt-edged needle, hold both needles together in your left hand with the yarn end coming from the first stitch on the back needle. Set up stitches: Draw the yarn purlwise through the first stitch on the front needle, and leave it on the needle. Now draw the yarn knitwise through the first stitch on the back needle and leave it on the needle.
Four Step Kitchener Stitch
1. With tapestry needle tip, slip first stitch off the front needle knitwise. 2. Put tapestry needle tip into second stitch on front needle purlwise and draw yarn through, leaving stitch on the needle. 3. With tapestry needle tip, slip first stitch off the back needle purlwise. 4. Put tapestry needle tip into second stitch on back needle knitwise, and draw yarn through, leaving stitch on the needle. Repeat these 4 steps until all the stitches are joined.
