studio drawclose knits bikini top
SIZED TO FIT A(B,C,D) cup. Find your fit by measuring across the base of one breast under the fold, following the curve, using a tape measure. Note on cup sizes: bra manufacturers size cups relative to ribcage size. For example, a 34-Dcup is a 36-C cup is a 38-B cup. When in doubt, measureyourself.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Each cup-triangle measures 7(8,9,10)” across hemmed base and 6(7,8,9)” from base of triangle to top measured along column of mitered decrease sts. Shoulder strap lengths 14(15,16,18)” or as desired. Back strap length 40(45,50,55)" or as desired. GAUGE 5.5 sts X 8 rows = 1" in stockinette stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row) INGREDIENTS 170-220 yards worsted weight yarn knit firmly to achieve gauge. more guidelines for yarn choices included in pattern
studio drawclose knits
Learn all about decreasing as you make the classic string bikini top. Knit for fun in the sun - and after the sun goes down. Don't bother wearing it in the water - that's not the point.
INGREDIENTS
170 yards 50% cotton, 35% rayon, 15% linen tape yarn Size 5 US/3.75mm 9" straight needles; Size 6 US/ 4.0Omm 9" straight needles 2 DPN's size 5 US/3.75mm; 29" circular needle size 5 US/ 3.75mm Needle sizes are only recommendations. Swatch until you get the gauge for proper fabric, fit, and support. Tapestry needle, large safety pin. SIZED TO FIT A(B,C,D) cup. Find your fit by measuring across the base of one breast under the fold, following the curve, using a tape measure. Note on cup sizes: bra manufacturers size cups relative to ribcage size. For example, a 34-Dcup is a 36-C cup is a 38-B cup. When in doubt, measure yourself.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Each cup-triangle measures 7(8,9,10)" across hemmed base and 6(7,8,9)" from base of triangle to top measured along column of mitered decrease sts. Shoulder strap lengths 14(15,16,18)" or as desired. Back strap length 40(45,50,55)" or as desired. GAUGE 5.5 sts X 8 rows = 1" in stockinette stitch (k 1 row, p 1 row)
PATTERN KEY TO ABBREVIATIONS & TECHNIQUES
K- knit P -purl ST - Stitch CO - Cast on YTF - Yarn To Front - Bring yarn to front of work by passing yarn BETWEEN needle tips. SL1WYIF - SLip 1 st With Yarn In Front - bring yarn to front of work BETWEEN needle tips, K2TOG - Knit 2 sts TOGether - k next 2 sts together as if they are one st. Single st decrease, right-leaning. SSK - Slip Slip Knit - (insert right needle tip into first st on left needle as if you are going to knit it, slip it to right needle) 2 times. Insert left needle tip into FRONT of the 2 slipped sts, knit them off together. Single st decrease, left-leaning. SL2KP2 - SLip 2 sts Knit one st Pass the 2 slipped stitches Over knitted stitch - Insert tip of right needle into BOTH of first 2 sts on left needle like you are going to knit them. Slip them to right needle. Knit next stitch. Use left needle tip to lift each of previously slipped stitches over knitted stitch and off right hand needle. 2-st decrease. SL2K2TOGP2 - SLip 2 sts Knit 2 sts TOGether Pass the 2 slipped stitches over knitted stitch - Slip BOTH of the first 2 sts like you are going to knit them to the right needle. Knit next 2 sts together. Using left needle tip, lift each of previously slipped stitches over k2tog st and off right hand needle. 3-st decrease. ICORD: with 2 double-pointed needles, across 3-8 sts (in this pattern, across 3 sts) - Row 1: Knit 3 sts. Slide 3 sts to opposite end of same double pointed needle. Repeat Row 1, pulling yarn tightly from opposite side of the row. To bind off: knit 3 sts together as if they are one stitch. Fasten off final st. Check the internet for more on this technique (just google I-cord) or email me. PATTERN CUP (make 2) Thanks for including me in your knitting life! I welcome your feedback - please tell me about your experience with this studio drawclose pattern. www.drawclose.com : drawclose on ravelry : studio.drawclose@me.com thank you - enjoy your knitting!
studio drawclose knits
With smaller needles, CO 39(45,51,57) sts. Starting with a p row, work stockinette stitch for 5 rows. Row 6 - slip one stitch as if to knit, k 1, \*ytf, k2tog; rep from \* to end of row Work 6 more rows in stockinette st. Switch to larger needles. Purl 1 row. Establish 6-st edging pattern Row 14 - (sllwyif, k1)3 times, k to last 6 sts, (k1,sllwyif)3 times Row 15 - AND ALL OTHER ODD #/WRONG SIDE ROWS - PURL ALL STS First decrease pattern - centered miter (double decrease) for cup shaping Row 16 - (sl1wyif, k1)3 times, k 12(15,18,21), sl2kp2, k 12(15,18,21), (k1,sl1wyif)3 times --> 37(43,49,55) sts Row 18 - (sl1wyif, k1)3 times, k 11(14,17,20) sl2kp2, k 11(14,17,20) (k1,sl1wyif)3 times --> 35(41,47,53) sts Repeat decrease pattern (every RS row work sl2kp2 one st sooner than in the previous decrease row, purl all WS rows) until you have worked a total of 8(9,10,10) decrease rows and following purl rows. End ready to begin a RS (knit) row. -> 23(27,31,37) sts D CUP ONLY: Maintaining 6-st border patt, work 8 rows even. Second decrease pattern - dec points move to just inside the edging Next row (RS): (sl 1 wyif, k1) 2 times, sllwyif, k2tog, k to last 7 sts, ssk, (k1,sllwyif)2 times, sllwyif. Next row (WS): purl. Repeat these 2 rows 3(4,5,7) times more --> 15(17,19,21) sts. Third decrease pattern - work patt for your size A CUP DECREASE PATT: Row A1: (sllwyif, k1)2 times, sllwyif, sl2k2togp2, (k1,sl1wyif)3 times. --> 12 sts A2 (& all A even rows) purl A3: (sl1wyif,k1)2 times, sl2k2togp2, (k1,sllwyif)2 times. -- > 9 sts A5: sl1wyif,k2, sl2k2togp2, k1, sllwyif -> 6 sts Switch to double-pointed needles. A7: sllwyif, sl2k2togp2, sllwyif -> 3 sts. A8: Slide the 3 sts you have knit to the opposite end of the double pointed needle. A9: Knit. Repeat for I-CORD (see abbreviations & techniques above) until strap measures 14" or desired length. Bind off.
B CUP DECREASE PATT:
Row B1: (sl1wyif,k1)3 times, k1,sl2k2togp2, (k1,sllwyif)3times --> 14 sts B2 (& all B even rows) Purl B3: (sl1wyif, k1)2 times, k2tog, ssk, (k1,sllwyif)3 times. --> 12 sts. After purling next row, cont as given from A3. Work ICORD strap to15" or desired length. Bind off. C CUP DECREASE PATT: Row C!: (sl1wyif,k1)3 times, k2tog, sl2kp2, ssk, (k1,sllwyif)3times -> 15 sts C2 (& all C even rows) Purl Continue as given from A1, working ICORD strap until it measures 16" or desired length. Bind off. D CUP DECREASE PATT: Row D1: (sl1wyif,k1)3 times, k2tog, k1,sl2kp2, k1, ssk, (k1,sllwyif)3times --> 17 sts D2 (& all D even rows) Purl D3: (sl1wyif,k1)3 times, k1,sl2k2togp2, (k1,sl1wyif)3times -> 14 sts Thanks for including me in your knitting life! I welcome your feedback - please tell me about your experience with this studio drawclose pattern. www.drawclose.com : drawclose on ravelry: studio.drawclose@me.com thank you - enjoy your knitting!
studio drawclose knits
D5: (sllwyif, k1)2 times, k2tog, ssk, (k1,sllwyif)3 times. --> 12 sts. After purling next row, cont as given from A3. Work ICORD strap to 15" or desired length. Bind Off ALL SIZES: CUP FINISHING Fold 6-row hem at turning row. Steam. Sew cast-on edge to row 12 for hem. Sew in ends. BACK STRAP With smaller circular needle, cast on 220(248,275,300) sts. Bind off. Sew in ends.
BIKINI TOP FINISHING
Stick safety pin through one end of back strap. Using safety pin as leader, work back strap through hem tube of each cup. (Since each cup is symmetrical, it is unimportant which one you put on first - just make sure they are both facing the same way). Try on. Have fun! Sample knit in size C using 2 balls Katia Idea Jeans yarn, color Olive. Yarn courtesy Pittsburgh Knit & Bead, 1708 Shady Avenue, Pittsburgh, PA. Original yarn is worsted weight - the ball band gauge is 4 sts x 5.5 rows = 1" using 8-9 US/5- 5.5mm needles. In this pattern, knitter uses smaller needles to knit to a smaller gauge, producing a FIRM fabric for structured support. I would knit this top in a smooth-textured, worsted weight yarn made of a blend of plant fibers (cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, etc.). Fiber junkie, artist, poet, filmmaker .. . at the gentle nudging of those I've knit for in the last few years, I'm offering patterns for sale under the imprint Studio Drawclose : Jessica Fenlon Designs. I wrote how-to knitting articles for knitty in 2002-03, and published “The Cherry Variations" there. Co-designed a light summer top with Lily M. Chin, for her book, The Urban Knitter. Yes, I did spin and knit a sweater that included human hair, part of my MFA thesis at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, where I also created & taught the class Knitting for Artists in 2001-02. Working knit stores in Boston and Pittsburgh, I wrote and customized patterns, and taught others how to make. I design almost everything I knit. I love the problem solving aspects of design, and the whole process of knitting. For my statement on copyright for my knitting patterns, please visit - http://drawclose.com/snowblood/2012/07/on-copyright/ Be well in all things - Jessica Thanks for including me in your knitting life! I welcome your feedback - please tell me about your experience with this studio drawclose pattern. www.drawclose.com : drawclose on ravelry : studio.drawclose@me.com thank you - enjoy your knitting!
