Lagniappe Shawl (v6 WITH CHARTS)
Designed by Esther Sandrof
OR THE FIRSTTHREE TRANCHES ARE INCLUDED ATTHE END OFTHEPATTER Lagniappe (Pronounced (Lan-yap) is a word with Quechua, French, Spanish and Creole origins that is used in Southern Louisiana to mean a baker's dozen or as the MeriamWebster dictionary describes "something given or obtained gratuitously or by way of good measure." This design combines a baker's dozen (or more, actually) of different types of crochet stitches that make a unified whole. The design comes in four tranches, which provides opportunities for experimentation with different color combinations. The first tranche is a sampler of different but uncomplicated stitches. The second tranche is a chain mesh. The third tranche is a granny motif. The fourth tranche is a twisted fringe. I'm the first to admit that I'm an impatient, easily distracted, rather improvisatory and inexact crochet practitioner. When I'm working from a pattern, if I come to an instruction that doesn't make sense to me or seems overly complicated, I tend to go with my gut and things usually work out OK. It is with this spirit of improvisation, that I present my first transcription of a pattern. It
liuuiu ue vicwcu a a icipe uliat Lall ut tweaked to your particular preferences. If you want to make a bigger shawl, or if you want to use a lighter yarn, the easiest way to adjust the pattern is to add additional rows to the second or third tranches. If you want to make a smaller shawl, you can omit some of the rows in any of the tranches - or leave off the third tranche completely. If you are going to improvise on the type of wool, a good rule of thumb for a sizing a shawl is to make it at least as wide as your outstretched arms. Thicker wool and bigger hooks will get you there quicker. If you want to make it with a lighter yarn, you will end up with a shawlette, unless you add in some rows. The Lagniappe Shawl featured in the photograph is made of Lion Brand Recycled Cotton, which is an aran weight yarn comprised of 72% Cotton, 24% Acrylic and 2% Other stuff. I used about 850 yards of yarn in two colors: 2.5 skeins of Seashell and 2.5 skeins of Pebble Beach. I used a 5mm (H) crochet hook. Helpful note: It's a very forgiving pattern. Mistakes are usually invisible and rarely fatal. The goal of this paticularly design is to produce a shawl that lays flat on the floor - it should be neither wavy (which is a sign of too many stitches in a row) or bowl-shaped (which is a sign of too few stiches in some rows). To some extent, this works itself out when you block the piece but because everybody uses different tension when they crochet and all yarns behave differently, don't be scared to adjust as you go. As you do each row, check to see whether you are getting waves or bowls. If you get waves, you can correct by evening reducing the number of stitches evenly across the row. A little reduction goes a long way. (Or alternatively, you can keep the waviness and end up with a fully shawl at the end - not a tragedy. Likewise, if your work starts to bowl, you can add a few stitches to flatten it out. Special Stiches: Cluster \*Yo, insert hook in next dc, yo, pull up a loop. Yo, draw through two stitches (leaving remaining stitches on hook). Repeat \* twice more. End stitch by drawing through remaining 4 loops onhook.
Instructions
First Tranche (Lagniappe):
Row 1: ch31 loosely. Chain an extra 3 to count as the 1st dc in the next row. Row 2: dc2 in base of 4th ch from hook. 1dc in next ch. \*dc2 in next ch. 1 dc in next ch \* Repea across. dc3 in last ch. Turn. Row 3: ch3 (counts as 1st dc now and throughout). dc in same stitch. 1ch. Skip next dc. \*dc in next dc. ch1. Skip next dc.\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 4: ch3. dc in same dc. \*dc3 in ch 1 space.\* Repeat through last ch 1 space. dc2 in last dc.Turn Row 5: ch3. dc in same dc. \*1 cluster in 2nd dc of each triplet. 2ch\* repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 6: ch3. dc in same dc. \*ch1. dc2 in next ch2 space. ch1.\* Repeat to last ch1 space. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 7: ch3. dc in same dc. dc in next dc. \*dc in ch 1 sp. dc in each dc.\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 8: ch3. dc in same dc. ch2. Skip 2 dc. dc in next dc.\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 9: ch3. dc in same dc. ch1. dc3 in ch 2 space. ch1.\* Repeat across. ch1. dc2 in last dc.Turn. Row 10: ch3. dc in same dc. dc4 in middle dc of triplet.\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 11: ch3. dc in same dc. \*ch1. dc in 2nd dc of quartet. ch1. dc in 3rd dc of quartet.\* Repeat to last ch1 space. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 12: ch3. dc in same dc. \*dc3 in ch 1 space. dc2 in next ch1 space\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 13: ch3. dc in same dc. ch1. Skip 1 dc. \*dc in each of next 2 dc. ch2. Skip 2 dc.\* Repeat to 3rd from last dc. ch1. Skip 1dc. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 14: ch3. dc in same dc. ch1. 1 cluster in ch 1 space. ch1. \*dc between 2 dcs. ch2. 1 cluster in ch2 space. ch2\* Repeat across to last ch2 space. dc between 2dcs. 1 cluster in ch1 space. ch1. Dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 15: ch3. dc in same dc. ch3. slin ch1 space . \*ch3. sl in ch2 space\* Repeat across. d2c in last dc. Turn. Row 16: ch3. dc in same dc. ch1. \*dc2 in ch3. Ch1\* Repeat across. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 17: ch3. dc in same dc. ch1. dc in ch1. \*ch2. Skip 2dc. dc in next ch.\* Repeat across. ch1. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Row 18: ch3. dc in same dc. dc3 in ch1. \*dc3 in each ch2 space\* Repeat across. dc3 in ch1. dc2 in last dc. Turn. Detach yard and weave in ends, if you are changing colors here.
Second Tranche (Mesh):
If you are changing colors, attach yarn to corner stitch. Rows 19 and 20: ch1 sc in first sc. \*sc in each sc\* Repeat across. sc2 in last sc. Row 21: ch1. sc in same sc. \*ch3. skip 1 sc. sl in next sc\* Repeat across. sc2 in last sc. Turn. Rows 22 - 26 (Or more if you want a wider mesh tranche): ch1. sc in same sc. \*ch3. sl in ch3\* Repeat across. sc2 in last sc. Turn. Row 27: sc2 in first sc. sc in next sc. \*sc3 in each ch3\* Repeat across. sc in sc. sc2 in last sc. Row 28: sc2 in first sc. \*sc in each sc\* Repeat across. sc2 in last sc. Detach yard and weave in ends, if you are changing colors here.
Third Tranche (Granny):
If you are changing colors, attach yarn to corner stitch. If you are not changing colors you may skip Row 29 and go directly to Row 30. Row 29: sc2 in first sc. \*sc in each sc\* Repeat across. sc2 in last dc. Row 30: ch3. Dc2 in same dc. \*Skip sc2. Dc3 in next sc. ch1\* Repeat across. dc3 in last dc. Turn. Rows 31 - 33 (Or more, if you want a wider granny tranche.): ch3. Dc2 in same dc. \*dc3 in ch1 space. ch1\* Repeat across. dc3 in last dc. Turn. Row 34: Add a sc border around the whole shawl. Detach yard and weave in ends, if you are changing colors here.
Fourth Tranche: (Twisted Fringe)
If you are changing colors, attach yarn to corner most ridge and add a sc border to the bottom edge of the shawl. Turn. Insert the hook into the first ridge. YO and pull a loop that is about 7" (13cm) long. You may want to use a guide to make sure that your loop is always the same size. Turn the hook clockwise about 20 times. Fold the twisted loop in half and let it twist back on itself. Sl back into same ridge. Repeat these instructions in each of the remaining ridges along to bottom of the shawl. Pull on each fringe to remove kinks and curls. You may want to experiment with the length of the fringes, the number of twists and/or the density of the fringes to suit your individual fringe preferences. Enjoy!
SECOND TRANCHE (MESH) THIRD TRANCHE (GRANNY)
