Paw Tracks by Crafts Meow
# Ravelry ID: TheCraftsMeow - buy yarn at CraftsMeow.etsy.com
This pattern something I envisioned that I wanted for a long time and finally had the time to sit down one day and figure out how to make it work. Adorable little paws appear to walk up your feet and legs and you can show everyone how your pet walks all over you! This pattern is customizable too. Choose your heel, short row or heel flap. Instructions are included for both. Instructions also provided for different types of ribbing to top off your socks. Thank you to my test knitters, Bev Latham and Sam Luchsinger for providing additional feedback and instructions. Gauge: 9-10 st per inch. Since you're working to custom length, row gauge not as important. Sample socks are 12 rows per inch Needles: US size 1 or 2 one of the sample socks was knitted on size 1 and the other was knitted on size 2. The samples were using magic loop, but these can be made using 2 shorter circulars, or dpns. I can't knit socks with dpns, so these instructions presume you're working magic loop or 2 circs. If you normally work with dpns, you'll know how to adjust. Just be sure to divide instep stitches 17 on one needle and 15 on another, since the pattern is worked over 17 stitches. Pink sample socks are CraftsMeow Ice Cream Sundae, $75\%$ superwash merino, $25\%$ nylon, and Ice Cream Sundae Kiddie Scoop for the contrast heels/toes Blue sample socks are CraftsMeow Banana Split II, ${\bf80\%}$ superwash merino, $2\mathbf{0}\,\%$ bamboo Abbreviation key: $\mathsf{p m}=$ place marker kfb $=$ knit into the front and back of stitch tbl $=$ knit through the back loop Socks are designed toe-up using Judy's Magic Cast On. See http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html for detailed instructions Step 1: Using Judy's Magic cast on (or your preferred toe-up cast on), CO 20 stitches, 10 per needle. Work 1 round even, pulling ends tight to avoid gaps at toe Increase Row: k1, kfb, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. Repeat for bottom of foot. Next Round: work even Repeat these two rounds until you have 64 stitches, 32 for the instep and 32 for the bottom of the foot Begin Pattern: Note\*\*Pattern is worked over 17 stitches on the outside of the leg, and are mirror images of each other. The remaining 15 st of instep are stockinette, as are the 32 sole stitches. The marker is used simply to separate the 17 pattern stitches from the other 15 on the instep, to avoid having to count.
Right sock:
Round 1: k15, pm, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k9 Round 2 and all even rounds: K all stitches. Round 3: K15, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k8 Round 5: k15, k3, k2tog tbl, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k9 Round 7: k15, k9, k2tog, yo, kl, yo, k2 tog tbl,k3 Round 9: k15, k8, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2 tog tbl ,k2 Round 11: k15, k9, k2 tog tbl, yo, kl, yo, k2tog , k3 Round 12: k around
Short row heel - Repeat rounds 1 thru’ 12 until sock measures $2^{\bullet}$ less than desired foot length. Heel flap heel - Repeat rounds 1 thru 12 until sock measures $2\;^{1\!/\!}2^{\circ}$ less than desired foot length
before the unworked stitch. W&T
Short row heel:
Row 1: Knit 31stitches. Move the working yarn to the front between the needles as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work. You have just wrapped and turned (W&T) on a knit row. Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn. You have just wrapped and turned (W&T) on a purl row. Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. W&T Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 9 of the heel stitches are wrapped and on left side, 14 stitches are "live" in the middle, and 9 are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Your heel is half done. Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock heel to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows. Now you'll work the second half of the heel: Row 1: Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn. Row 2: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn. On subsequent rows you willpick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch. Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 32 "live" stitches. When you have allstitches live again, you are going to begin working the leg of the sock, returning to pattern as established. To avoid a hole between the instep and the heel, you may want to pick up an extra stitch or two between the "live" stitches and the stitches you left on a needle for the instep. On the next round remember to decrease back down to 32 stitches each for the front and back of the leg.
Heel flap heel:
Gusset: while working pattern over instep, increase as follows: Row 1: Knit across needle 1 (instep stitches) in pattern. On needle 2, K1, kfb, knit to last two stitches, kfb, k1 Row 2: Knit pattern stitches on instep needle, and even on sole stitches Repeat these two rows until there are 56 total sole stitches, keeping in pattern on the instep stitches. Mark your pattern in some way so you remember where you are in pattern, because you are now going to work your heel flap on the sole stitches only. You'll need to continue pattern when you finish. Turning the heel: turn work and slip 1 stitch, purl back across sole stitches Row 1: S11, k30, ssk, k1, turn Row 2: Sl1, p8, p2tog, pl, turn Row 3: Sl1, k across to one stitch before gap, ssk, kl, turn Row 4: Sl1, purl across to one stitch before gap, p2tog, pl, turn Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked and 32 stitches remain on the needle Return to working in the round. Pick up 1 or 2 stitches to close the gap between the gusset and heel if desired and necessary. Leg of sock and finishing: Work until the leg is the desired length to the ribbing, then work in ribbing to the desired finished length. Blue sample socks were ribbed by kbl, p1 around. Pink sample socks were ribbed using standard k2p2 rib. Bind off loosely.
Left sock:
Round 1: k9, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog tbl, k3, pm, k15 Round 2 and all even rounds: K all stitches Round 3: k9, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, k15 Round 5: k9, k2tog tbl, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, k15 Round 7: k3, k2tog, yo, kl, yo, k2 tog tbl , k9, k15 Round 9: k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2 tog tbl , k8, k15 Round 11: k3, k2 tog tbl, yo, kl, yo, k2tog , k9, k15 Round 12: k around Follow chosen heel and ribbing instructions, same as you did for the right sock. You now have cute litte paw tracks coming up your legs! This was Chanel's reaction when the first pair of test socks came in. Enjoy and have fun!
