Torbay By Amy Pickard
My inspiration for this cardigan was the style of Hollywood stars from the late 1950s on the French Riviera, although the pattern is named for an area on the South coast of England known as the “English Riviera". Torbay is knitted from the neck down in a yoke style and features a simple cable that runs down both fronts, garter stitch welts and trims in a contrasting yarn. Photographs: Amy Pickard Model: Amy Pickard
Size
Sizes: XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X) To fit bust: 78(86, 94, 102, 109, 117, 124, 132)cm/31(34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)inches Finished bust measurement: 86(92, 102, 108, 114, 123, 130, 139)cm/34(361%4, 40, $42\%$ $44\%$ ， $48\%$ 51, $54\%$ )inches Shown in size XL Requirements Yarn: MC: 5(5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) $\mathrm{~\times~}100\mathrm{g}$ skeins Patons Diploma Gold Aran ( $55\%$ wool $125\%$ acrylic $\%$ nylon, $184\;\mathrm{m}/100\;\mathrm{g})$ in colour: Cocoa (08218) CC: $1\mathrm{~x~}50\mathrm{g}$ ball Rowan Classic Yarns Cashsoft DK ( $57\%$ extra fine merino $I33\%$ microfibre $\,^{\prime}10\%$ cashmere, $130\mathrm{m}/50\mathrm{g})$ in colour: Poppy (00512) - $25\mathrm{m}$ of yarn is required for casting off and on and sewing on buttons only Needles: Interchangeable needle set with $5\mathrm{mm}/\mathrm{US}8$ and $4\mathrm{mm}/\mathrm{U}\mathrm{S}6$ tips, or size needed to obtain correct tension Notions: $5\mathrm{~x~}18\mathrm{mm}/^{3}\!/4$ inch buttons (you may need 9 or more buttons if you find that the fronts gape) Blunt needle for weaving in ends and sewing on buttons Cable needle (optional) Stitch markers (optional)
Tension
19 sts and $26\ \mathrm{rows}=10\mathrm{cm}/4$ inches in stocking stitch in the round and in the flat on larger needles
Pattern Notes
This is a neck-down cardigan knit with a yoke. The increases are staggered, not stacked one on top of another, to create small “triangles"” of increased stitches. For more details on seamless, top-down knitting, see this article by Diane Mulholland in the Spring 2008 issue of The Inside Loop. (http://www.theinsideloop.com/Issue1/Articles/ simplyseamless.html) Note on short row shaping for bust: Short row shaping add length to a garment, meaning the hem of the finished garment will hang straight and not pull up at the front. Each short row adds 2 rows to the length, therefore if 5 short rows are worked this adds 10 rows or 4cm/1/zinches to the length. To determine the number of short rows required, measure from centre of shoulder to hem length at the front (over the fullest part of the bust) and subtract the same measurement from the back. This give the additional length required. This difference is then translated into number of rows using the tension obtained in stocking stitch and divided by two. Workedexample: Shoulder to hem at front $=70\mathrm{cm}$ Shoulder to hem at back $=60\mathrm{cm}$ $$ 70\mathrm{cm}-60\mathrm{cm}=10\mathrm{cm} $$ 10cm in stocking stitch is 26 rows 26 divided by $2=13$ , therefore 13 short rows are needed. The turning point for each short row is 3 sts apart so the first short row needs to be worked at $(13\mathrm{~x~}4)$ sts from side seam marker, i.e. 52sts. Mark this stitch with a safety pin or similar marker. Note: if this number is greater than the number of front sts available for your size, work the same number of short rows but work them closer together. IMPORTANT: the cable and garter stitch border is worked throughout the short row shaping. Before starting the shaping note which chart row you finished on and during the shaping for the left front note the number of repeats you complete. When you work the Right Front shaping you will be starting with the next RS row of the chart. How to work the short rows: (Starts on k row at Left Front) k to marked stitch, W&T, p back to front edge. Work to wrapped st, pick up wrap and work together with wrapped st, k2, W&T, work to front edge. Rep until number of wrapped sts equals number of short rows needed. Complete row. Repeat this process for Right Front. How to place short rows: The first short row worked needs to be at the "bust point" or fullest part of chest (this is usually the nipple). After the underarm sts have been cast on, try the cardigan on and measure from the bottom of the cardigan to the bust point. Work in pattern to this point, ending after a ws row has been completed. Start the short row shaping. Side shaping: Work side shaping decreases as follows: k to 3sts before first side marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k to within 3sts of second marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k to end (4sts decreased). Work side shaping increases as follows: k to 1st before first side marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L, k to within 1st of second side marker, M1R, kl, sm, k1, M1L, k to end (4sts increased).
Abbreviations
M1: make 1 stitch by picking up the loop laying between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, and knitting into the back M1R: from back, lift strand of yarn between needles and knit through the front M1L: from front, lift strand of yarn between needles and knit through back C6B: slip next 3 needles on to cable needle and hold at back of work, k3, k3 from cable needle. C6F: slip next 3 needles on to cable needle and hold at front of work, k3, k3 from cable needle. C8B: slip next 4 needles on to cable needle and hold at back of work, k4, k4 from cable needle. C8F: slip next 4 needles on to cable needle and hold at front of work, k4, k4 from cable needle. Gst (flat): garter stitch in the flat; k every row Gst (rnd): garter stitch in the round; k1 rnd, p1 rnd W&T: wrap and turn The Inside Loop list of standard abbreviations can be found at: www.theinsideloop.com/abbreviations.html
Instructions
Yoke: With one strand CC as the lower thread, one strand MC as the upper, and using the long tail method, cast on 120(128, 134, 140, 152, 164, 170, 176)sts onto smaller needles. Break off CC. Work Gst (flat) for 6 rows. Cable set-up row (rs): Work Row 1 of cable chart 1A for sizes XS-L or chart 2A for sizes XL-4X, kto 15(15, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17)sts before end, work Row 1 of Chart 1B for sizes XS-L or chart 2B for sizes XL-4X. Next row (ws): Work Row 2 of appropriate "B" chart, p to 15(15, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17)sts, work Row 2 of "A" chart. Cont. in st st, working yoke increases as follows: For sizes XS to L charts 1A and 1B are used and for sizes XL to 4X charts 2A and 2B are used. The cables and garter stitch border are maintained at the front edges throughout the yoke increases and for the rest of the body of the cardigan.
XS
Row 1: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k1, [M1, k4] 9 times, [M1, k3] 5 times, [M1, k4] 9 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 1B Row 2: work row 4 of chart 1B, p to last 15sts, work row 4 of chart 1A Rows 3-6: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 7: work row 3 of chart 1A, [M1, k5] 9 times, [M1, k4] 5 times, [M1, k5] 9 times, M1, k4, work row 3 of chart 1B (168sts) Rows 8-12: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 13: work row 3 of chart 1A, k2, [M1, k6] 9 times, [M1, k5] 5 times, [M1, k6] 9 times, M1, k3, work row 3 of chart 1B (192 sts) Rows 14-18: maintaining cable patterm as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 19: work row 3 of chart 1A, k4, [M1, k9] once, [M1, k8] 17 times, [M1, k9] once, M1, k4, work row 3 of chart 1B (212 sts) Rows 20-26: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
S
Row 1: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k1, [M1, k4] once, [M1, k3] 29 times, [M1, k4] once, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 1B (160 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 1B, p to last 15sts, work row 4 of chart 1A Rows 3-8: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 9: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, [M1, k5] once, [M1, k4] 29 times, [M1, k5] once, M1, k4, work row 3 of chart 1B (192 sts) Rows 10-16: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 17: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k2, [M1, k6] once, [M1, k5] 29 times, [M1, k6] once, M1, k3, work row 3 of chart 1B (224 sts) Rows 18-24: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 25: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k16, [M1, k33) once, [M1, k32] 3 times, [M1, k33) once, M1, k16, work row 3 of chart 1B (230 sts) Rows 26-28: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
Row 1: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k1,
[M1, k4] 4 times, [M1, k3] 23 times, [M1, k4] 4 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 1B (166 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 1B, p to last 15sts, work row 4 of chart 1A Rows 3-8: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 9: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, [M1, k5] 4 times, [M1, k4] 23 times, [M1, k5] 4 times, M1, k4, work row 3 of chart 1B (198 sts) Rows 10-16: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 17: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k2, [M1, k6] 4 times, [M1, k5] 23 times, [M1, k6] 4 times, M1, k3, work row 3 of chart 1B (230 sts) Rows 18-24: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 25: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k5, [M1, k12] once, [M1, k11] 15 times, [M1, k12] once, M1, k6, work row 3 of chart 1B (248 sts) Rows 26-30: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
Row 1: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k1, [M1, k4] 7 times, [M1, k3] 17 times, [M1, k4] 7 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 1B (172 sts)
Row 2: work row 4 of chart 1B, p to last 15sts, work row 4 of chart 1A Rows 3-8: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 9: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, [M1, k5] 7 times, [M1, k4] 17 times, [M1, k5] 7 times, M1, k4, work row 3 of chart 1B (204 sts) Rows 10-16: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 17: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k2, [M1, k6] 7 times, [M1, k5] 17 times, [M1, k6] 7 times, M1, k3, work row 3 of chart 1B (236 sts) Rows 18-24: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 25: work 15sts of row 3 of chart 1A, k3 [M1, k7] 13 times, [M1, k6] 3 times, [M1, k7] 13 times, M1, k3, work row 3 of chart 1B (266 sts) Rows 26-36: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
XL
Row 1: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k1, [M1, k4] 11 times, [M1, k3] 9 times, [M1, k4] 11 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 2B (184 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 2B, p to last 17sts, work row 4 of chart 2A Rows 3-8: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 9: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, [M1, k5] 11 times, [M1, k4] 9 times, [M1, k5] 11 times, M1, k4, work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2B (216 sts) Rows 10-16: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 17: Work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k2, [M1, k6] 11 times, [M1, k5] 9 times, [M1, k6] 11 times, M1, k3, work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2B (248 sts) Rows 18-24: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 25: Work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, [M1, k7] 11 times, [M1, k6] 9 times, [M1, k7] 11 times, M1, k6, work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2B (280 sts) Rows 26-32: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 33: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k20, [M1, k41) 5 times, M1, k21, work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2B (286 sts) Rows 34-44: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
Row 1: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k1,
[M1, k4] 5 times, [M1, k3] 29 times, [M1, k4] 5 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 2B (204 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 2B, p to last 17sts, work row 4 of chart 2A Rows 3-10: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 11: Work 17sts of row 5 of chart 2A, [M1, k5] 5 times, [M1, k4] 29 times, [M1, k5] 5 times, M1, k4, work 17sts of row 5 of chart 2B (244 sts) Rows 12-20: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 21: work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2A, k2, [M1, k6] 5 times, [M1, k5] 29 times, [M1, k6] 5 times, M1, k3, work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2B (284 sts) Rows 22-30: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 31: work 17sts of row 1 of chart 2A, k12, [M1, k25) 9 times, M1, k13, work 17sts of row 1 of chart 2B (294 sts) Rows 32-48: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
3X
Row 1: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k1, [M1, k4] 8 times, [M1, k3] 23 times, [M1, k4] 8 times, M1, k2, work row 3 of chart 2B (210 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 2B, p to last 17sts, work row 4 of chart 2A Rows 3-10: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 11: work 17sts of row 5 of chart 2A, [M1, k5] 8 times, [M1, k4] 23 times, [M1, k5] 8 times, M1, k4, work 17sts of row 5 of chart 2B (250 sts) Rows 12-20: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 21: work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2A, k2, [M1, k6] 8 times, [M1, k5] 23 times, [M1, k6] 8 times, M1, k3, work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2B (290 sts) Rows 2-30: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 31: work 17sts of row 1 of chart 2A, k3, [M1, k8] twice, [M1, k7] 31 times, [M1, k8] twice, M1, k4, work 17sts of row 1 of chart 2B (326 sts) Rows 32-50: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing
Row 1: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, kl,
[M1, k3] 23 times, [M1, k2] once, [M1, k3] 23 times, M1, k1, work row 3 of chart 2B (224 sts) Row 2: work row 4 of chart 2B, p to last 17sts, work row 4 of chart 2A Rows 3-12: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 13: work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2A, [M1, k4] 23 times, [M1, k3] once, [M1, k4] 23 times, M1, k3, work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2B (272 sts) Rows 14-24: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 25: work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2A, k2, [M1, k5] 23 times, [M1, k4] once, [M1, k5] 23 times, M1, k2, work 17sts of row 3 of chart 2B (320 sts) Rows 26-36: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Row 37: work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2A, k5, [M1, k12] 11 times, [M1, k11] once, [M1, k12] 11 times, M1, k6, work 17sts of row 7 of chart 2B (344 sts) Rows 38-52: maintaining cable pattern as set at beg and end of rows, work in st st without increasing Divide for sleeves: Next row (ws): keeping cable pattern as set, work 40(44, 47, 51, 55, 58, 62, 65) front sts. With smooth waste yarn in a similar weight to MC, cast on 10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16) underarm sts using temporary cast on method. Leaving 36(38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58) sleeve sts on one section of interchangeable needle set or waste yarn, p80(86, 94, 100, 108, 116, 122, 130) back sts, place 36(38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58) sleeve sts on cable or waste yarn, cast on 10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16) underarm sts using a provisional cast on, work to end of row. Place stitch markers at centre of underarm cast on to denote "side seams". Work optional short row shaping for bust here (see Pattern Notes fo1 details). Side shaping: Working decreases and increases as outlined in Pattern Notes, begin side shaping as follows: Next row (rs): dec in next and every following 6th row 7(7, 7,3, 9, 4, 5, 8) times and then every 8th row 2(2, 2, 5, 0, 5, 4, 1) times. Work straight for 10(10, 10, 12, 16, 6, 10, 14) rows. If you wish to shorten or lengthen the body, work fewer or more rows at this point. Hip increases: Next row (rs): increase in next and every following 6th row 6(6, 6, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times and then every 8th row 1(1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times - 148(162, 176, 190, 202, 216, 230, 244)sts. Again, if you would like to lengthen the body, more rows can be worked after the increases have been completed. Change to smaller needles and stop working cable pattern. Next row (rs): k across whole row, decreasing 2sts in each cable and 15(16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24)sts evenly across row - 129(142, 154, 167, 178, 190, 203, 216)sts remaining Beginning with a k row, work 11 rows in Gst (flat). Break MC, join CC and cast off knit-wise Sleeves (make two alike): Remove waste yarn at underarm. Rejoin MC at centre of armhole and using larger needles, continue as follows: k5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8) underarm sts, pick up 2sts in "corner" of arm, k36(38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58) sleeve sts from holder, pick up 2sts, k rem underarm sts, pm - 50(52, 58, 60, 66, 68, 72, 78)sts. k 5 rnds, then work sleeve decreases as follows: k1, ssk, k to 3sts before marker, k2tog, k1. Continue in this manner, decreasing 2sts every 14(16, 14, 14, 12, 14, 14, 12) rows a total of 5(4, 5, 5,6, 5,5,6) times - 40(44,48, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)sts. Change to smaller needles. Next rnd: k around, decreasing 4(4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7)sts evenly. Beginning with a p rnd, work in Gst (rnd) for 6 rnds, ending with a k rnd. Break off MC. With CC, cast off purl-wise. Finishing Weave in loose ends and tighten any loose sts at underarms. With CC, sew buttons on to Right Front, matching yarnovers. Use yarnovers as buttonholes.
About the Yarn
Patons Diploma Gold Aran is a machine washable wool blend yarn that comes in a variety of colours and knits at 19sts to $10\mathrm{cm}$ An alternative yarn that has the same tension is Rowan Classic Cashsoft Aran.
About the Designer
A self-confessed nerd, Amy knits in the northwest of England and is obsessed with the weather and the cricket. Visit her blog at dyedinthewool.wordpress.com. Email Amy: dyedinthewoolster@ googlemail.com This printable version has been designed to minimise ink and space. For more images visit the original at www.theinsideloop.com. You may download, print and/or photocopy this pattern for your own personal noncommercial use only. No distribution or reproduction is permitted without express written permission of copyright owner. If your friends would like a copy, please direct them to the source at www.theinsideloop.com.
Chart 2A: For sizes XL-4X
Right front cable
Chart 1B: For sizes XS-L
