Reaf and flower Shawl
By Linda Choo
Difficulty: intermediate-design istriangular in shape with an increasing stich count. Only charts are provided. This Leaf and Flower Shawl can be made in a number of yarn weights. The size can easily be increased by increasing the number of repeats before the border. The stitch count increases by 4 stitches (2 on each half) on every knit row. Only charts are provided. There are 2 charts provided for the body of the shawl. The first one is the Leaf chart, which is based on Vislehekiri from Hapsalu Sall, while the Flower chart is based on Ussitanud lehekiri also from Haapsalu Sall. One or both of these charts can be used. An optional transition chart is also provided, and can be used if desired. With these charts and the 2 edgings, you can design your own unique shawl and make it your own. Construction: The construction is a typical triangular shawl knit from the centre back neck down. This was my first attempt at understanding and designing a triangular shawl, so I kept the charts simple and interchangeable. Everything is based on a 12 stitch repeat. The shawl is worked with a garter stitch border and a centre stitch "spine" with the chart worked twice, once for each side. Gauge: Gauge is not important since thisis notafitted garment. The lace willopen up after blocking Needles: Needle size will vary with the yarn choice. It is recommended that a sample or swatch is knitted to determine a suitable needle size. The sample was knitted with $3.5\mathsf{m m}$ circular needle with laceweight handspun yarn. The second sample was also knit with $3.5\mathsf{m m}$ circular needle and Fleece Artist Suri Blue yarn (1 skein). Yarn: A variety of yarn weights can be used. The choice of yarn as well as the size will dictate the amount of yarn used. The sample used approximately 300-550m of alpaca laceweight. Alternatively, fingering weight, double knitting, sport weight, or baby yarn can be used. The needle size and amount of yarn needed will vary with the choice of weight as well as the number of repeats worked. Size: This will depend on the yarn and size knitted. Sample: The first sample, the shawlette, was knit with $47\mathrm{{g}}$ of baby alpaca laceweight handspun or about $300\mathsf{m}$ . It was $40^{\prime\prime}$ by $24^{\prime\prime}$ after blocking. I ran short of handspun and substituted a smaller simpler edging. The charts are provided for both edgings. The second sample, the fullshawl, was done with more repeats and the main edging chart. Fleece Artist Suri Blue (alpaca and BFL laceweight) was used in the Victoria colourway. Most of 1 skein or about 500-550m of yarn was used. The final size was $68^{\prime\prime}$ by $32^{\prime\prime}$ after blocking. Dedication: While I was knitting this, our family dog passed away very suddenly. She was my companion while I knit in the early morning and is very much missed. I dedicate this design to all companion pets, and the unconditional love and friendship that they bring into our lives.
Stitches Used:
K2tog -this is a right leaning decrease, by knitting the 2 stitches together Slip-knit-psso (pass slipped stitch over) or ssk- this is the corresponding left leaning decrease. Consistency in the direction of the decreases is important in lace knitting for the overall appearance. Slip-k2tog-psso (pass slipped stitch over) or $S k2p-$ is a double decrease with the first stitch positioned on top of the decrease. Again consistency in the type of decrease is important to the appearance of the motif. Yo - yarn over the needle, to make an eyelet Garter stitch - knit on both sides (i.e. the knit and purl rows) Bind off-It is important that this be very stretchy and loose, to allow for easy blocking. Larger needles can be used for the bind off. Use your favourite method. Instructions: Beginning: There are two alternate beginnings, either of which can be used. Garter Stitch Tab Method: With a contrasting yarn (slightly heavier), crochet a chain about 6-10 stitches long. Mark the end for unravelling later. With your shawl yarn, make 3 stitches by inserting your needle under the loop at the back of the chain and knit on a stitch onto your needle. Do this 3 times to have 3 stitches. Knit several rows in garter stitch, so that you have 3 ridges along the side. Then pick up 3 stitches along the long edge of your garter stitch strip, carefully unpick the provisional cast on and knit the 3 stitches onto the needle. You willnow have 9 stitches. Turn. K3, yo, K1, yo (one side made), k1 (centre spine), yo, k1, yo, K3 (second side made). Turn. K3, P7, K3. Turn. You can now start Chart 1 Beginning at Row 3. Cast On Method: Cast on 9 stitches loosely. Garter stitch for 3 rows. Row 4: k3, yo,k1,yo, k1(centre stitch), yo, k1, yo, k3 Row 5: k3, p7, k3. Now proceed to chart 1, starting at Row 3. Shawl: Work the rest of chart 1 in the Leaf pattern, repeating rows 35 to 46 as many times as desired. For each extra repeat, you will have one additional repeat of the shaded portion of the chart. Note that the chart is worked twice, once on each side of the shawl. That chart is symmetric, so there is no need to reverse it at the centre. Keep the first 3 and last 3 stitches in garter stitch, and the centre stitch as stockinette. Only the knit rows are shown in the charts. Alleven rows are purled, with the exception of the 3 stitch garter border on each side. You can move at any time to Chart 2, or do the entire shawl in either pattern. The choice is your. There is an optional transition chart provided (rows 1 to 12 on Chart 2) which can be worked if desired. Rows 11 to 24 of Chart 2 can be worked for as many repeats as desired before proceeding to edging, working the appropriate number of repeats of the shaded portion. All charts are a based on a 12 stitch repeat and fit well together. There is no need for a specific number of repeats, and the choice is totally yours. Chart 3 is the border chart. The shaded portion is worked as many times as needed, depending on the size of your shawl. Chart 4 is an alternate simplified border (provided since I ran short of yarn on the first sample and had to abort my edging plans). The blue shaded portion is worked in place of the shaded portion in Chart 3. Cast off with your favourite stretchy bindoff method. Block your lace and enjoy! 45 43 41 39 37 35 33 31 29 27 25 23 21 19 7 15 13 11
Chart 1: 5 Leaf Pattern Legend:
Chart 2: Transition and Flower Chart Legend:
Chart 3: Border Chart Legend:
Chart 4: Alternate Border
Legend: 7 5 3 1
