NicEoin Scarf Design: A Knitting Pattern for a Beautiful, Seamless Scarf or Wrap with Integrated Edging

Welcome to my NicEoin scarf design. I love being able to knit a scarf in one piece with the edging knit at the same time as the body of the scarf, leaving very little finishing to do when the scarf is knit. What can I say I'm a lazy knitter! The scarf (or wrap - you can vary the amount of repeats to suit making it wider and longer) begins with the bottom edging which is knit in a strip, then turned and the stitches for the body of the scarf are picked up. The centre pattern and edging are then knit at once following the pattern until the desired length is achieved. To finish, the edging is knit across the top from right to left attaching itself to the live stitches of the centre pattern before the two ends of the edging are grafted together. It may seem a little fiddly but the effort is worth it. If this method of construction is daunting, you could cast on the desired number of stitches for the centre pattern, knit to the required length and then knit on the edging afterwards around the entire scarf/wrap. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed designing and making it. It would also make a very pretty stole or wrap by varying the number of repeats.

What you will need:

495m cobweb weight yarn approx (I used Heirloom Knitting's Merino 2 ply lace, shade Airforce Blue (375m per 25g), although this scarf could be knit in any weight blockable yarn to any size by amending the amount of repeats. My scarf weighs 30g and used 450m approx. 2.5mm straight needles (or short circulars if you prefer) August 2010 Version 1.0 Stitch markers or contrasting thread to mark the edging and centre design scarf sections. Row Counter (optional) Sharp scissors Darning needle (to darn in ends) Contrasting yarn for waste wool cast on.

Gauge/Tension:

One edging repeat when blocked measures 2.5" x 2.5” in garter stitch. 16 stitches at widest point and 24 rows in garter stitch. Finished blocked dimensions using yarn/needle combination above and four repeats of the pattern: 12" x 56" approx

Notes:

This scarf/wrap is knit from the bottom up in one piece. The edging is knit at the same time as the centre pattern of the scarf and the bottom edging is knit first (after using the waste wool cast on with some contrasting yarn). The stitches for the centre are picked up along the straight side/edge of the edging, the waste wool is picked out and the live stitches are placed on the needeso that the border canbe knit onboth sides as you knit the cente of the scarf, points facing outwards. This minimises casting o/ff and sewing which is something that appeals to me! You can knit the scarf in stocking stitch but this may change the size and look ofthe completed it

Patterning is on EVERY OTHER row.

To make this scarf/wrap wider, you can cast on any multiple of 14 centre stitches plus 14 left hand side stitches and 15 right hand stitches (This does not include the stitches for the edging as this varies from row to row.). Altermatively, you could make it thinnerbyjst using 29 stitches (14 lft hand and 15 right hand stitches). You will need to make some gauge/tension swatches to figure our how much more yarn you will need before beginning if this is the case. The length can also be changed by knitting rows 25 - 144 as many times as you like. very odd row is read from right to left and every even row is garter stitch and not shown on the ch: August 2010 Version 1.0

Instructions:

Cast on 12 stitches with your contrasting yarn and knit 3 rows. Breakfrajai htwild tutght in scarf). Knit 1 row. Beginning with row1 ofedging chart knit6points ofdging (each point is a 24 row repeat, with 12 loops oridesbetweenrows to pick up stitches frm)note if you have amended the width of your scarf you will need to make either more or less edging points at this stage. I came up with the 6 points as follows:- Each point has 24 rows which leaves 12 ridges (loops between rows) to pick up stitches from I wanted the edging to fit around the corners, so I wanted to fit an extra point on each side (+2) When the scarf is blocked this will mean that the edging sits neatly around the corners of your scarf so that it doesn't pull or pucker. So, with my live edging stitches on the needle in my right hand, for the first two points I picked up 11 stitches, for the next two I picked up 20 stitches and then the final two I picked up 12 stitches per point, this left me with 11 + 20 + 12 = 43 stitches. If you are amending the width of your scarf/wrap firstly work out how many repeats you would like Eg. If you want 4 extra repeats of the centre motif (4 x 14 = 56) plus 14 left hand and 15 right hand stitches, gives a total of 85 Stitches. 85 stitches divided by 12 (loops between rows) = 7.08 (round up or round down here). This means I need 7 edging repeats. Include 2 extra repeats to fit the edging around the corners (7 + 2 = 9) So you can now make your 9 edging points, then turn and pick up 12 stitches from the first two points, 61 stitches from the next five edging points, and lastly 12 stitches from the last two points (12+ 61 + 12 = 85 the number of stitches needed to the centre of the scarf) These figures DO NOT INCLUDE THE RIGHT & LEFT EDGING STITCHES Then pick up the 12 stitches attached to the contrasting yarn of your waste wool cast on. You can unpick or snip out the waste wool carefully with a scissors once the 12 stitches are safely on your needle. If you pullthe waste wool taut, you should be able to see the stitches of your main yarn clearly. Knit row1 ofChart adding your markers nowto differentiate between the centre scarf pattrn and the left and right edging. Place thefirst markers afer the 12 stitch and the second 43 stitches later. Increase by 1 stitch in the last row (44 centre stitches). This is to make it easier to attach the edging evenly (4+ 6+ 24+6+4= 44 stitches),see below. August 2010 Version 1.0 DO NO CAST OFE. You should have finished the final row of the scarf with a row 24 of the edging. Now you need to complete 6 more points of the edging for the top of the sarf attaching it to the scarf body as you goby knitting 2 stitches (ast edging stith and next scarfstch on the lft hand neede together). Continue with the edging pattern with the right hand edging only, attaching to the body of the scarf/wrap (on the left hand needle) as follows:- To mimic the corners at the beginning ofthe scarf, continue with the edging pattern as charted (the repeat is outlined in red and atach to the scarf body as follows:- First Point (uses 4 scarf body stitches) I have marked in bold, the rows where you attach the edging to the body of the scarf. Row 1 - Pattern to end, do not attach to body of scarf Row 3 - Knit to 2nd last stitch, turn Row 5- Pattern to last stitch, K2tog (edging & scarf body stitches) Row 7 - As row 3 Row 9 - As row 1 Row 11 - As row 5 Row 13- As row 1 Row 15- As row 3 Row 17- As row 5 Row 19 - As row 3 Row21- As row 1 Row23- Asrow5 Second Point (uses 6 scarf body stitches) Row 1 - Pattern to end, do not attach to body of scarf Row 3 - Pattern to last stitch, K2tog (edging & scarf body stitches) Row 5 - As row 1 Row 7 - As row 3 Row 9 - Asrow1 Row 11 - As row 3 Row 13- Asrow1 Row 15 - Asrow3 Row 17 - As row 1 Row 19 - As row 3 Row 21 - As row 1 Row 23 - As row 3 Third Point & Fourth Point (uses 24 scarf body stitches) Attach edging and body of scarf together every second row Fifth Point (uses 6 scarf body stitches) As for second point August 2010 Version 1.0

Sixth Point (uses 4 scarf body stitches)

Row 1 - Pattern to end, do not attach to body of scarf Row 3 - Knit to 2nd last stitch, turn Row 5 - Pattern to last stitch, K2tog (edging & scarf body stitches) Row 7 - As row 3 Row 9 - As row 1 Row 11 - As row 5 Row13- As row 1 Row 15- As row 3 Row 17- As row 5 Row 19 - As row 3 Row 21- As row 1 Row23- As row 5 You could decrease your stitch count by 1 in the final row to 84 (84 divided by 12 (loops/ridges between rows) is 7 - this was your original number of points needed before you added two extra to ease the edging around the corners) This would mean that you could attach the edging to the scarf body every fourth row (as per second point above) for the first two points (12 scarf body stitches used) For the next 5 points attach to the scarf body every second row (60 scarf body stitches used) For the final 2 points attach every fourth row (12 scarf body stitches used) 12+60+12=84 There is no rule for attaching the edging, you wil just need to get a pencil, paper and calculator and work out how you can double up’ the edging at ach side as you can see from the chart below.

There is no need t cast of. When the 6 point is complete, you can graft Kitchener stitch) the two ends of the edging together for an invisible join I have no helpful graphics for this, if you make socks, or Shetland shawls you will already be familiar with the process of grafting. If in doubt, please root out your knitting books or look it up online. It's much easier to grasp if you can se it being done in a tutorial or with pictures. Aiternatively, you can cast off and sew two edges neatly together. stitches on the needle until the entire seam is grafted (just in case) but there is no real need to do tl August 2010 Version 1.0 Darn in all loose ends securely and block/dress.

Pattern Charts

Unfortunately, the chart is large and will not fi comfortably onto a page so you will need to stick the right and lft hand sides together. The pages are laid out so that the left hand side is first, rows 23b down to 1 and then the right hand side rows 23b to 1. The pattern shows the edging alongside the main centre pattern on each side. The centre pattern is made up of 14 left hand centre side stitches, 14 centre pattern stitches (you can make the scarf into a wrap by increasing here, 28, 42, 56 etc.), 15 right hand centre side stitches and right hand edging stitches. The blue outline is the 14-centre pattern and the red outline is the scarf repeat (to be repeated 4 times or as many times you like). The pattern overlaps at the yellow square so you only need to knit this square ONCE. August 2010 Version 1.0

:ht Side) NB Only knit yellow square ONCE, this is where the pattern overlap!

Dressing/Blocking

I blocked my scarf on a double bed with blocking wires and safety pins, but all you really need is a large enough flat space, measuring tape, rustproof pins and time! Soak the scarf in lukewarm water with some gentle detergent suitable foryour yan. If using wool don't alter the temperature of the water as this could cause felting.Rinse until al the detergent is rinsed out, wrap in a colourfast towel, and blot to take out most of the moisture. Lay out on your chosen flat surface and pin out, tretching gently, along each point of the edging. You can use the tape measure to make sure each side is straight. Leave until completely dry. Unpin and enjoy!

2010 by Aisling M Doonan. This pattern is for private use only. The pattern, images or products made from the pattern may not be sold without the express written consent of the designer. Thank you for choosing my pattern, I hope you enjoy knitting and using it. Please feel free to contact me if you find any errors or have any other issues you need clarified. Your comments will be gratefully accepted.