Rose City Rollers
ocks, perfect for summer knitting and wearinc
Pattern by:
Mara Catherine Bryner
\*this pattern is in no way affliated with the roller derby team, but it dreams to be as awesome as them
Rose City Rollers
Sizes: Sizes will be color coordinated throughout the pattern Small (S)- 7.5 inch (19cm) foot circumference Medium (M)- 8.5 inch (21.5cm) foot circumference Large (L)- 9.5 inch (24cm) foot circumference
Materials:
Fingering/sock weight yarn, approximately 50- 75g Set of 5 size 1 US, 2.25mm double pointed needles (or size needed to obtain gauge) Tapestry needle Measuring tape Scissors Stitch marker (optional)
Gauge:
24 stitches and 30 rows = 3 inches (7.6cm) in stockinette stitch, knit in the round. A note about gauge: I think that understanding gauge, and knitting gauge swatches, are important parts of the knitting process. That being said, I also understand the need to cast something new on right away. If you have already knit socks, you probably have a good idea of your gauge and what stitch count works for you. If this whole process is new to you, I highly recommend knitting a small swatch in the round to check your gauge,or guessing whichsizewill work for you and trying it on before starting the heel flap to make sure it is not too tight or too loose.
Abbreviations:
A quick note about needles before we begin: I like to use dpns for my top down socks, and I prefer to arrange the stitches over 4 needles. This helps keep stitch tension even, and reduces the chance of ladders. Using 4 needles also makes the gusset section easier. If you are more comfortable using 2 circulars, or the magic loop method, this pattern iseasilyconverted.
Cuff:
Cast on 56 (64 72) stitches, I like using the long-tail, or Old Norwegian cast on method for socks. Distribute stitches evenly over 4 needles (14 16 18 stitches per needle). Make sure that the stitches aren't twisted, and join for working in the round. Some people like to place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round, I prefer to leave the tail from my cast on and use that to help me remember where the round starts. k -knit p- purl st st - stockinette stitch dpn - double pointed needle sl - slip stitch purlwise k2tog - knit two stitches together p2tog - purl two stitches together ssk - slip one stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, knit slipped stitches together rs - right side wr - wrong side Work even in stockinette stitch (knit every row) for at least 1 inch (to measure, unroll the cuff and measure from the cast on edge), how long you make the cuff is up to you, I like to have about 1 V2 inches before I start the heel flap, but it's open to personal preference.
Heel Flap:
Knit across the first two needles, these will be the instep (top of foot) stitches, they will not be worked again until the heel flap and heel turn are done. The 28(32 36) stitches on needles3& 4willbecombinedontooneneedlefor theheel flap and heel turn. Row 1-(rs) (sl1, k1) across needles 3 & 4, working all stitches onto one needle, end with a knit stitch, turn Row 2-(ws) sl the first stitch, p across stitches, turn Row 3- (sl1,k1) to end of row, turn Row 4- sl the first stitch, p to end of row, turn Heel Flap cont. Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you have worked a total of 28 (32 36) rows. End with a purl row. If you're like me, and have trouble remembering to use a row counter, you can count the line of slip stitches (the slipped stitches will be raised) on the knit side of the heel flap, there should be 14 (16 18) slip stitches (sometimes I put a removable stitch marker on one of the slipped stitches in the first row, so I know where to start counting).
Heel turn
For the heel turn you will be working short rows, and some people get intimidated by short rows. If you are one of those people, just remember that essentially all you're doing is knitting (or purling) and turning before you get to the end of the row. That's it. Totally not scary. Row 1-(rs) k 16 (19 21), ssk, k1, turn Row 2-(ws) sl1, p 5 (7 7), p2tog, p1, turn Row 3- sl1, k 6 (8 8), ssk, k1, turn Row 4- sl1, p 7 (9 9), p2tog, p1, turn Continue working each row in this pattern, sl 1, k or p to one stitch before the gap, ssk or p2tog, k or p 1, turn, until all stitches have been worked (depending on what size you are making, you might end with a p2tog and not a p2tog, k1), you will end with a purl row. Turn to the right side, you should have 16 (20 22) stitches left on the needle.
Gusset:
For the gusset, you will be picking up stitches along both sides of the heel flap, after the stitches are picked up your sock will be distributed over 4 needles again. There are many different methods for picking up gusset stitches, some people like to pick up only the front or back loop, others pick up both loops, the important thing is to pick a method and stay with it consistently for all of the picked up stitches. I like to use two needles and pick up and knit the stitches as I go. Knit across the heel flap, placing a marker after 8 (10 11) stitches (the halfway point). Pick up and knit 14 (16 18) stitches along the edge of the heel flap. Gusset cont. Pick up one more stitch at the corner between the heel flap and instep, this will help prevent a hole at that corner. There should now be 31 (37 41) stitches on this needle. Knit across the 28 (32 36) stitches on the next two needles. Using the two empty needles, pick up and knit one stitch at the corner and 14(16 18) stitches along the heel flap, then knit the first half of the heel (until the marker) onto the same needle that holds the heel flap stitches just picked up. The two heel needles shound now each have 23 (27 30) stitches.
Gusset decreases:
You could start the round here, but then the beginning of the round would be in the middle of the heel, so I always knit across the rest of the heel and the first picked up stitches, and start the round at the beginning of the instep stitches. The needles are now numbered as illustrated below, with the instep stitches on needles 1 and 2, and the heel stitches divided acrossneedles3 and 4. Round one-k across needles 1 & 2 Needle 3- k1, ssk, k to end of needle Needle 4- k to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Round two- k all stitches on needles 1-4 Repeat these two rounds until all 4 needles have 14(16 18) stitches on them.
Foot:
Continue knitting st st in the round until the foot of the sock measures about 2 inches shorter than your foot length measurement (from heel to longest toe). If you are able to try the sock on, it should reach the base of your pinkie toe.
Toe:
I am giving two toe options, a rounded toe and a square toe. If you want to use a contrasting toe color, I would add it now and knit one round with it before starting the toe.
Rounded toe kounaea toe: Round one Needle 1: k1, ssk, k to end of needle Needle 2: k to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle Needle 4: k to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Rounds two-four- k all stitches Round five- repeat round one Round six-seven-k all stitches Round eight- repeat round one Round nine- k all stitches All remaining rounds- repeat round one until 4 (6 8) stitches remain on each needle. Divide stitches evenly over 2 needles, Kitchener stitch together. Weave in and trim ends. Square toe: Round one Needle 1: k1, ssk, k to end of needle Needle 2: k to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle Needle 4: k to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Round two- knit all stitches Repeat these two rounds until 7 (8 9) stitchesremainoneachneedle. Divide stitches evenly over 2 needles, Kitchener stitch together. Weave in and trim ends. This pattern is intended for personal use only
Square toe The yarns used for the socks in this pattern are from: Republic of Wool The Flying Kettle Hedgehog Fibres Into the Whirled Thank you so much for checking my pattern out! If you have any comments, or questions, you can pm me on Ravelry, where I'm Maracatherine Or dm me on Instagram where I'm orangeknits
