Cerrg Pretcbett's Discworld: Flgpn Che Swamp Drcgon
Swamp Dragon and Discworld is owned by Terry Pratchett Swamp Dragon Pattern was written by Stephieface/Steph Conley
Flynn is a swamp dragon. When not eating armor polish, the kettle, charcoal biscuits, or the good silverware.. swamp dragons gamble with exploding. Their basic defense against predators is exploding. Their basic reaction to indigestion is exploding. Their basic mating rituals with the males competing with one another leads to exploding. Generally, with Swap Dragons, there's a good bit of exploding, chances to explode, and ample opportunities to explode. So, a creative Igor installed a zipper in the belly of the beast so that often ate items may be retrieved, that is of course if you are not bothered by your retrieved item being covered in dragon bile. Flynn is intended as a basic swamp dragon pattern, with many opportunities to customize and be creative. If you do not like the spike ridge down his back, flip the spine pattern so that the WS shows out, omit the spikes, make him fatter, make his neck longer, make it shorter, lengthen his ears. Just as there are many breed of dog with different physical attributes, so are there different kinds of dragon attributes... only dogs explode less than dragons.... well, hopefully anyway. Worsted Weight Yarn (l used recycled sweater yarn from my stash) US5DPNs US5 Circular needle (optional, straights can also be used) Darice brand 15mm Plastic Toy Eyes w/ washer (l used the 4 pk, brown eyes) Polyfill or equivalent toy stuffing 7" zipper in color that matches your yarn Thread that matches zipper and yarn Tapestry needle and sewing needle Stitch Markers Spine Pattern: 3 stitches to start 1. Kfb, Kfb twice in same stitch, Kfb 2. Purl all stitches 3. Kfb ea st 4. Purl all stitches 5. K3tog x 2, K2tog x 2, K3tog x 2 6. P2tog x 3 Flynn is worked from the head back to the tail. Then stitches are picked up around the "nose" to make the snout. Ears, and legs, are added later along with the zipper. Directions where actions are designated to specific needles, needles will be classified as "a", “b", and “c". On DPNs, CO 21, joining in the round R1 - R3: K all R4: a) K b) Kfb, K to last stitch, Kfb c) K R5: a) K b) K4, Kfb, K4 c) K (you will no longer be working in the round at this point) R6: P all R7: a) K b) Kfb, K to last st, Kfb c) K R8: P all R9: a)K b) Kfb, K5, Kfb, K5, Kfb c) K R10: P all R11: a) K b) Kfb, K6, Kfb, Kfb, K6, Kfb c) K R12: P all R13: a) K b)Kfb all st c) K Rearrange stitches to be even on needles with needle B holding most R14: P all R15: a) K7, Kfb, K b) Kfb every st c) K until 8 sts remain, Kfb, K7 R16: P all R17: K all R18: P all R19: K all R20: P all R21: K all R22: P all R23: a) K b) K2tog all c) K Rejoin in the round R24: K all R25: K all R26: a) K7, K2tog, K7,Ktog b)K4, K2tog x 2, K2, K2tog x 2, K4 c) K2tog, K7, K2tog, K7 R27: a) K7, K2tog x4, K1 b) K2tog, K4, K2tog, K4, K2tog c)K1, K2tog × 4, K7 R28: a) K7, K2tog, K1, K2tog b) K2tog × 2, K3, K2tog x 2 c) K2tog, K1, K2tog, K7 R29: a) K8, K2tog b) K2tog, K3, K2tog c) K2tog, K8 R30: a) K7, K2tog b) K5 c) K2tog, K7 Take a stitch from both needles A and C and put on needle B so that each needle has 7 stitches, 21 stitches in total. R31- R46: K all- These rows make Flynn's neck R47: a) K6, Kfb b) K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1 c) Kfb, K6 R48: a) K6, Kfb x2 b) K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1 c) Kfb x 2, K6 R49: a) K8, Kfb x 2 b) K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1 c) Kfb x 2, K8 Stop knitting in the round here, and start knitting back and forth. You may want to switch to circulars or the larger straights from the DPNs. You will also need to make your stitch markers handy. Additional Note: The first 7 stitches and last 7stitches will always been in stockinette and untouched. These stitches are w the zipper will attach to on the belly. R50: P all R51: K7 (place marker) K to last 7 stitches (place marker) K7 R52: P all R53: K7 (m) K1, Kfb, K3, Kfb x2, K1, Kfb x 2, K3, Kfb, K1 (place marker) M1 (place marker) K1, Kfb. Kfb ×2, K1, Kfb x 2, K3, Kfb, K1 (m) K7 R54: P all R55: K7 (m) Kfb, K19, Kfb (m) Kfb twice in same stitch (m) Kfb, K10, Kfb (m) K7 R56: P all these two markers willalways be the spine stitches.] R58: P all R59: K all sts to 2nd marker (m) Kfb ea st until next marker (m) K all sts to end R60: P all R61: K to 2nd marker (m) K3tog ×2, K2tog ×2, K3tog x 2 (m) K to end R62: P to 2nd marker (m) P2tog x 3 (m) P to end R63: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K to end R64: P all R65: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb ea st to next marker (m) k to end R66: P all R67: K to 1st marker (m) K22, Kfb x 3 sts, K2 (m) K3tog ×2, K2tog × 2, K3tog x2 (m) K2, Kfb x 3 sts, K22 (m) K7 R68: P to 2nd marker (m) P2tog x 3 (m) P to end R69: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K to end R70: P all R71: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb ea st (m) K to end R72: P all R73: K to 2nd marker (m) K3tog × 2, K2tog x 2, K3tog x 2 (m) K to end R74: P to 2nd marker (m) P2og x 3 (m) P to end R75: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K to end R76: P all R77: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb ea st to next marker (m) K to end R78: P all R79: K to 2nd marker (m) K3tog x 2, K2tog x 2, K3tog x 2 (m) K to end R80: P to 2nd marker (m) P2tog x 3 (m) Pto end R81: K7 (m) K2tog, K24, K2tog x 2 (m) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K2tog x 2, K24, k2tog (m) K7 R82: P all R83: K to 2nd marker (m) Kfb ea st until next marker (m) K to end R84: P all R85: K7 (m) K2tog, K21, K2tog ×2 (m) K3tog × 2, K2tog × 2, K3tog × 2 (m) K2tog ×2, K21, K2tog (m) K7 R86: P to 2nd marker (m) P2tog x 3 (m) P to end Return to DPNs [a) 21 sts b) 23 sts for the back c) 21 sts] rejoin for knitting in the round R87: a) K7 (m) K2tog, K10, K2tog b) K2tog, K6, K2tog (m) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K2tog, K6, K2tog c) K2tog, k10, K2tog (m) K7 R88: K all R89: a) K7 (m) K2tog, K8, K2tog b) K2tog, K4, K2tog (m) Kfb ea st to next marker (m) K2tog, K4, K2tog c) K2tog, K8, K2tog (m) K7 R90: K all R91: a) K7 (m) K2tog x5 b) K2tog x3 (m) K3tog ×2, K2tog ×2, K3tog ×2 (m) K2tog x3 c) K2tog ×5( K7 R92: a) K all b) K3 (m) K2tog x3 (m) K3 c) K all R93: a) K5, K2tog (remove marker) K2tog x 2, move last stitch to beginning of needle b B) K2tog x 2 (n Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb (m) K2tog, slip first stitch from needle c purl wise to needle b then K2tog ( K2tog x 2 (remove marker) K2tog, K5 R94: a) K4, K2tog x 2 b) K2tog (m) Kfb ea st to next marker (m) K2tog c)K2tog x 2, K4 R95: a) K4, K2tog b) K2tog, K14, K2tog (remove markers) c) K2tog, K4 R96: a) K3, K2tog b) K3tog × 2, K2tog x 2 , K3tog × 2 c) K2tog, K3 R97: a) K4 b) K2tog x 3 c) K4 R98 - R107: K all R108: a) K2, K2tog b) K c)K R109 - R117: K all R118: a) K b) K c) K2tog, K2 R119- R143: K all R144: On ea needle Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb R145: K all R146: Kfb ea st R147: K all R148: on each needle K3tog x 2, K2tog x 2, K3tog x 2 R149: K2tog all R150: K2tog, K1 \* repeat for all stitches R151: K2tog all sts R152: K all Break yarn and pull thru remaining stitches For Flynn's Snout PU 21 sts around the nose for knitting in the round , arrange 7 sts per needle, with needle b's stitches being on the 'top' for the bridge of his snout. R1: K all R2: a) K2tog, K3, K2tog b) K7 c) K2tog, K3, K2tog R3: a) K1, K2tog, K2 b) Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb, Kfb, Kfb, Kfb, Kfb twice in same st, Kfb c) K2, K2tog, K1 R4: a) K2tog, K2 b) K all c) K2, K2tog R5: a) K3 b) Kfb x 8, K2, Kfb x 8 c) K3 R6: K all R7: a) K3 b)K3tog × 2, K2tog × 2, K3tog × 2, K2, K3tog × 2, K2tog × 2, K3tog × 2 c) K3 R8: a) K3tog b) K2tog x 3, K2, K2tog x 3 C) K3tog Break yarn and draw thru remaining stitches. Bend down point and secure to “chin" to create Flynn's nostrils. Legs (make 4) CO 12, Join to knit in round R1 - R20: K all R21: Kfb ea st R22 - R27: K all R28: K2tog all R29: Arrange stitches on to 2 needles and kitchener. Ears (make 2) CO2 R1: K R2: P R3: Kfb ea st R4: P R5: K R6: P R7: K R8: P R9: K2tog R10: P2tog Break yarn and pull thru remaining stitch. Use CO edge to sew to sides of head. Ears are supposed to curl. Add eyes to the head, you can manipulate the folds to make eyelids, horn ridges, etc. Sew hole in chin closed and stuff head with polyfill. Stuff legs and sew on to the body using ladder stitch. Using needle and thread sew zipper into the belly hole on Flynn's tummy. If you like you can first use fabric and make a zippered pouch, then sew the pouch in. Weave in all ends. I took a very small amount of polyfill and stuffed the base of Flynn's tail... but you don't have to. Remember, there can be different breeds of dragon, as well as different breeds of dragon with different assorted dragon diseases. You can add stripped feathers for "hair", beads, sequins, a collar. You can have a Lancastrian Short Snout (and omit the snout directions, sewing the nose shut ), an Uberwaldian Ridge Back (by turning the spine stitches so that the WS faces out), or a Klatchian Krick Neck (omit a few rows of neck rounds). He's really easy to customize, so get creative!
