EZ 100th Anniversary PI Shawl: Gull Wings Half-Circle Knitting Pattern Tribute to Elizabeth Zimmermann

EZ $100^{\mathtt{t h}}$ Anniversary PI Shawl: Gull Wings (half circle version)

Elizabeth Zimmermann was born on August 9th, 1910 (8/9/10). This shawl is the half-circle version of the Gull Wings shawl, one of a set of three Pl shawls designed as a tribute to EZ and a celebration of all she has done for us. For the EZ 100th Anniversary Pl Shawls, modifications were applied so that the stitch pattern repeats are multiples of 8, 9, and 10 (the numbers in EZ's birthday). For the half

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circle version of the shawl, the same stitch patterns are used with modifications so that they can be knit back and forth, purling back on wrong side rows. A garter stitch border is incorporated. The instructions in this document will produce a half-circle version of the Gull Wings shawl. I used 5mm needles and approximately 785 yards of fingering weight yarn. The shawl is $71^{\prime\prime}\times37^{\prime\prime}$ (blocked). Your experience may vary depending on yarn weight, needle size, and tension. Use any yarn weight and needle size that you like. You don't have to use the stitch patterns provided here, you could unvent your own! Include any pattern that has stitch repeats of 8, 9, or 10. The three full circle Pl shawls can be found on Ravelry, and each one has a half-circle alternative design: EZ $100^{\mathrm{th}}$ Anniversary PI Shawl: Gull Wings EZ $100^{\mathrm{th}}$ Anniversary Gull Wings Half-Circle ${\mathsf{E}}{\mathsf{Z}}\,100^{{\mathsf{t h}}}$ Anniversary PI Shawl: Hearts ${\mathsf{E}}{\mathsf{Z}}\,100^{{\mathsf{t h}}}$ Anniversary Hearts Half-Circle ${\mathsf{E}}{\mathsf{Z}}\,100^{{\mathsf{t h}}}$ Anniversary PI Shawl: Camping ${\mathsf{E}}{\mathsf{Z}}\,100^{{\mathsf{t h}}}$ Anniversary Camping Half-Circle

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Symbols: Rs: Right side, Ws: Wrong side, k: knit; p: purl; yo: yarn over; k2tog: knit 2 together; ssk: slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, slip left needle into the front of both stitches from the left and knit them together from that position OR slip 1, knit 1, psso (pass slipped stitch over); sk2p: slip 1, k2tog, psso. m1: invisible make 1, lift running strand from the front with left needle and knit into the back of it, or knit into back of stitch below the next stitch, then knit the stitch itself. Doesn't matter as long as you are making a new stitch and it is relatively unnoticeable (ie., doesn't make a hole). kfb: knit into the front and back loops of the stitch, making 2 out of 1 stst: stockinette stitch (knit on RS and purl on WS). TIP: A different coloured marker at beginning of Rs helps to keep track.

MAIN INSTRUCTIONS

I'm starting with a garter tab cast on. It's a bit fiddly if you've never done one, but is worth learning; it looks great. Follow my instructions below, and if you are having trouble, check out knittingkninja's great tutorial at: http://knittingkninja.com/2010/06/13/on-designing-a-lace-triangle-i-cast-on/ Garter tab cast on Cast on 3 st (you can do a provisional cast on, but I don't bother). Knit 6 rows to complete the garter tab. Row1: At the end of the 6th row of the 3 stitch garter tab, turn 90 degrees and pick up 3 stitches (from the 3 garter bumps) along the side of the little tab you've just knitted. Turn 90 degrees again and pick up 3 stitches from your cast on row. You now have 9 funny looking stitches and have completed row 1. The first and last 3 stitches will be a 3 stitch garter st border on either side, the middle 3 stitches will grow the shawl. Row 2: k3, place marker, p3, place marker, k3 IMPORTANT: From here on, instructions and charts will not bother to mention the garter stitch border at each end; only what is between the end markers will be described. The 6 border stitches, 3 at the beginning and 3 at the end of each row, will always be garter stitch (knit both RSandws). Row 3: yo, kfb, yo, k1, yo, kfb, yo (9 st) Rows 4-8: stst Row 9: (yo, k1) 9 times, yo (19 st) Row 10-16: stst Row 17: (yo, k1) 19 times, yo (39 st) Row 18-28: stst Row 29: (yo, k2tog) 2 times, (yo, k1) 31 times, (yo, k2tog) 2 times, yo (71 st) Row30: purl Row 31: k1, m1, knit to end (72 st) Row32:purl Row 33-48: Gull Wings (16 rows, directions below, then return here) Row 49-50:stst Row 51: (yo, k1) 72 times, yo (145 st) Row52: purl Row 53: k2tog, knit to end (144 st) Row54:purl Row 55-94: Vines (40 rows, directions below, then return here) Row95-96:stst Row 97: (yo, k1) 144 times, yo (289 st) Row 98:purl Row 99: k2tog, knit to end (288 st) Row100:purl Row 101-144: Gull Wings (44 rows, directions below, then return here) Row145-146:stst Border: Row 147: (yo, k2tog) 144 times, yo (289 st) Row 148: purl Row 149: k1, m1, knit to middle stitch, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1 (292 st) Row 150:purl Row 151-168: Hearts (18 rows, directions below, then return here) Row 169: (yo, k1) 292 times, yo (see bind off notes below) Row 170: bind off in knit from Ws (l used 5.5mm needle) Bind Off: You can use any stretchy bind off that you like, but it is critical that it be stretchy, because a circular shawl (or a half-circle shawl) needs an extremely stretchy edge to allow it to be stretched enough while blocking. My preferred method is to bind off over 2 rows, as shown in Rows 169 and 170; it requires more stitches and a bit more yarn, but I like the edge it gives me. Of course, you are the boss of your knitting and you might have a favourite and equally stretchy bind off of your own. A few alternatives: Bind off over two rows: First row: (yo, k1) to end, yo (doubles the stitches). Second row: bind off normally; for this shawl I bound off in knit from the Ws using a needle 0.5mm larger. Lace bind off in purl: p1, $\ast_{\mathsf{p1}}$ , slip both stitches back to left needle and p2tog (repeat from \* until all stitches bound off). Might be a good idea to use a larger needle size and test for stretch! Lace bind off in knit: k1, $^{*}\mathsf{k}1$ , slip both stitches back to left needle and k2tog (repeat from \* until all stitches bound off). Might be a good idea to use a larger needle size and test for stretch! Blocking: It helps to use a yard stick or a pinned string to measure from the centre of the top edge of the shawl to the curved edge and make sure this radius is the same all around the half circle. I kept a spray bottle of water handy to wet down the shawl as it was getting too dry. I wet down the whole shawl again once I was done pinning. Gull Wings (number of rows depends on which half-ring you are on): Gull Wings (adapted from Barbara Walker's Treasury of Knitting Patterns, page 201). Row 1: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2 Row 3: k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1 If you are working across the 72 stitch half-ring, repeat these 4 rows 4 times in total (16 rows) If you are working across the 288 stitch half-ring, repeat these 4 rows 11 times in total (44 rows) Don't forget the last purl row; then return to the main instructions Gull Wings (4 rows) 9 stitch repeat

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Notes for Gull Wings chart: Scan the written instructions for number of row 3 repeats (depends on which half-ring you are on). 1 Vines (40 rows; 144 stitch half-ring): Vines (adapted from BW Treasury, page 218). (note, only the RS rows are given, purl back on all WS rows) Row 1: k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo Row 3: yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1 Repeat these 4 rows 10 times in total (40 rows) Don't forget the last purl row; then return to the main instructions Vines (4 rows) 9 stitch repeat

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m1

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Hearts (2 row set-up plus 2 repeats of $8\,\mathsf{r o w s}=18$ rows; 292 stitch border): The Hearts pattern was inspired by the tulip pattern in Maggie Righetti's Knitting in Plain English (page 166). It was modified to reduce stitches from 12 to 9. Modifications produced a simple 9 stitch and 8 row pattern. Note that this 8 row pattern is defined by rounds 3-10 (below) but I begin with rounds 1 and 2 so that the top of the first row of hearts is better defined. (note, only the RS rows are given, purl back on all WS rows) Row 1: yo, sk, k2tog, yo, $^{*}\mathsf{k}1$ yo, sk2p, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo (repeat from \*) Complete rows 1 and 2 one time only (2 rows). Row 3: yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, $\ast_{\mathsf{k5}}$ , yo, ssk, k2tog, yo (repeat from \*) Row 5: yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, $\ast_{\mathsf{k5}}$ , yo, ssk, k2tog, yo (repeat from \*) Row 7: k4, \*yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4 (repeat from \*) Row 9: yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, $^{*}\mathsf{k}1$ , yo, sk2p, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo (repeat from \*) Row 18: don't forget the last purl row; then return to the main instructions Hearts (2 row set-up plus 8 row repeat)

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9 8 765 43 2 2 1 9 stitch repeat Notes for Hearts chart: Each RS row starts with the 4 stitches shown on the right (knit once per row), followed by the 9 stitch repeat. Rows 1 and 2: are worked one time only Rows3to10:areworkedtwice

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