Cadence Rose Sundress
by StitchyMama (Katherine Oxlade Knack)
Measurements:
V Chest: 48-52cm circumference (more stretch in it as well) Skirt of Dress: 76cm wide Tunic Length: 12-18 months: 30cm Dress Length: 12-24 months \~ 4- 48cm length depending on height
Gauge:
24sts for 1ocm in stockingette st on 4mm needles
Yarn:
130g-20og of 8ply (DK) depending on length Suggested Yarns: Jolly Jumbuck Freya and Aphrodite (both 8ply Crepe Merino) Four Bags Full Merino (supplied by both Monster Knits and The Yarn Café)
Materials needed:
4mm needles - 40cm and 6ocm lengths (flats if you like for the front and back pieces) Sewing needle for grafting 3 stitch holders crochet hook for a provisional cast on Piece of ribbon, 7mm wide, 1m length A couple of meters of scrap yarn for provisional cast on (preferably cotton) Stitch marker
Abbreviations used:
CO: Cast on K: Knit P: Purl st: Stitch BO: Bind off kfb: Knit front and behind for 1 stitch SSK: Slip one stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch purlwise, knit the two together through the back loops Kztog: knit 2 stitches together MiL: Make 1 stitch (leftslanting). From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop. MiR: Make stitch (right slanting). From the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop. PM: Place marker on needle WS: wrong side facing
RS: right side facing
This pattern is intended for personal home use only. Commercial use of this pattern is a violation of the copyright. Please do not reproduce and distribute this pattern. Items made using this pattern are not to be sold without written permission of the author Katherine Oxlade Knack. Email me at stitchymama@gmail.com for any enquiries regarding the pattern.
Back bodice piece (knit flat):
Using a crochet hook do a provisional cast on of 27 sts using your scrap yarn. This site has a good video that shows how to so a provisional cast on using a crochet hook: http://www.knittingatknoon.com/provisional.html R1-4: Attach yarn and complete 4 rows of garter st (knit each row). R5: K3, MiR, K21sts, MiL, K3. R6 and alleven rows: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. R7and all odd rows: K3, MiR, knit to last 3 sts, MiL, K3 Repeat rows 6 and 7 until you have 53 sts on the needles. Finish on a purl row. Cut yarn with a 15cm tail and place live sts on a stitch holder.
Bodice Cups (knit flat): make 2 of these.
Using a crochet hook do a provisional cast on of 7 sts using your scrap yarn. Rr: attach yarn and knit across Knit these stitches in garter st until length is 8cm unstretched (28 -30 rows for me), finish on a WS row Row 29: K3, MiR, k1, MiL, K3 Row 30: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 Row 31: K3, MiR, Kto last 3 sts, MiL, K3 Row 32: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 Continue rows 31 and 32 until you have 33 sts on the needles (finish on a purl row) For the first Bodice Cup - Cut yarn with a 15cm tail and place live sts on a spare 4mm needle. For the second, leave the live yarn attached.
Front Piece (joining the crossed over pieces):
Take the bodice cup still attached to your yarn and K until 13 sts remain, place the other bodice cup directly behind this so that the last 13 sts line up with the first 13 sts on the other needle. Knit the last 13 sts on the needle with the first 13 sts of the other cup. Ie. The first stitch on your front and back needles will be knit together and so on until all the front needle stitches are knit. Continue to knit to the end of the row. (53 sts) Bodice (joining the front and back) - knit in the round from here on. Continue knitting with the piece from last section. Turn work (so work is WS facing) and knit on 2 extra sts. Turn work back around when finished (RS facing). Place your back bodice piece on a spare needle and start knitting across with your live yarn, joining the two pieces. When you come to the end, again turn work and knit on 2 extra sts, placing a stitch marker in between them. Turn work back around when finished. (110 sts in total) See this website for instructions of knitting on as a cast on technique: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on Stitch marker will signify the start of each row from now on. Row 1: P around to marker, joining the other side of the dress. Row 2: K around to marker Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more. On the last knit row MiL at the beginning of the row and again under the opposite arm hole (n2 sts) Row 7 (Eyelet row): \*yo, k2tog, $k2^{*}$ repeat to end Row 8: K 1 row Row 9: P 1 row Repeat rows 8 and 9 twice more. Row 14 (Increase row): $^{\ast}\mathrm{k}\mathrm{1}$ kfb\* repeat to end (168 sts) Baby Fern pattern (from Charlotte Schurch's More Sensational Knitted Socks) Rounds 1, 3, 5: K to end Round 2: ${}^{\ast}\mathrm{P}_{1}$ , K2tog, K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, SSK, P1, $\mathbf{K}\mathbf{1}^{\ast}$ Repeat to end Round 4: ${}^{\ast}\mathrm{P}\mathbf{1},$ K2tog, K1, YO, K3, YO, K1, SSK, P1, $\mathbf{K}\mathbf{1}^{\ast}$ Repeat to end Round 6: ${}^{\ast}\mathrm{P}\mathbf{1}_{}$ , K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, P1, $\mathbf{K}\mathbf{1}^{\ast}$ Repeat to end
Lace Skirt:
Complete Baby Fern Stitch pattern until the dress/top is a little short (1-2cm) of these lengths: Tunic Length: 30cm Dress Length: \~ 4- 48cm length depending on height Dress edging: Complete Garter st (starting with a knit row) for 7 rows and BO in Purl. Add extra rows if needed. Joining the straps: Undo the provisional CO for the back piece and place it on the needles Join yarn on the WS and knit across Knit 7 sts, place them on a spare needle or stitch holder, BO 13 sts in purl, knit the last 7 sts. This is a good time to check the length of the straps as you can easily add more length if needed. If not... Cut yarn with a im tail. Undo the provisional CO for the corresponding strap, place the sts on a spare needle and graft the seam (Make sure you have 7 sts you may need to pick up one more from the edge). Here are some instructions from Knitty for grafting in garter stitch (at the bottom of the page). Just make sure you do it on the WS of the dress in case you make a mistake. http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummero4/FEATtheresasumo4.html Repeat for other strap. Weave in ends, wash and block.
Acknowledgements:
Thank you to Kelly, Sue. Tanya and Belinda for the use of their photos.
