Men's Simple Swish Hat By Lee Samsami Stein
My husband likes his clothes very simple. No tags, patterns, logos, images, etc. So knitting stuff for him is challenging, especially when one loves varied colors, patterns and textures like I do. Alas, I thought of a simple hat pattern that can be worn by men (and women), yet provides a little flourish to make process more interesting. This hat has a ribbed edge, not folded, with a basic stockinette body and a purled "swish" across it. It doesn't take more than a skein and a day to make!
Finished Size:
With an unrolled edge, stretches to comfortably fit a 20-22" head.
Gauge:
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Materials:
About 200 yards of worsted weight yarn. US Size 7 needles (circular and double-pointed) US Size 6 needles (16" circular or double-pointed) Tapestry needle, two stitch markers Note: If you like the folded edge—not shown in these examples—do the ribbing for about 4.5" to 5" and be sure to add that length to the body so you'll know when to start your decreases. Another Note: When it's time to start decreasing, you want to keep the swish going. So continue your purl pattern as established. Substitute any knit stitches for purl stitches if you get to the "swish." Also if you need to decrease in the middle of the swish, substitute purl for knit. For example, if you need to k2tog on a purl stitch, p2tog instead.
Yarn Usage:
Pictures clockwise from top left: 1 skein of Hidden Valley Yarns worsted in beige; 1 skein Madelinetosh Pashmina worsted in Tannehill; 1 skein Peace Fleece worsted in Siberian Midnight; % skein Madelinetosh Pashmina worsted (Tannehill) + % skein of KnitPicks Swish worsted (Lawn). I used the same needles for all four hats, but the madelinetosh has a little more stretchiness and softness to it being a lighter yarn, whereas the hidden valley and peace fleece—-although heavier yarn—-make a more durable fabric but still have enough give to fit nicely, and keep you warm. All of the above hats fit my big head, which is 22" (including ears).
Instructions:
With Us Size 6 needles, cast on 100 stitches. Place a marker and join in the round being careful not to twist stitches. K2P2 for 2.5 inches. Switch to US size 7 needles. Round 1: K4, P4, knit to end Round 2: K4, P4, knit to end. Round 3: K6, P4, knit to end. Round 4: K6, P4, knit to end. You get it? At this point, I place a little marker in front of the purl stitches because sometimes it's hard for me to see when the knits end and the purls begin. I move the marker over every time it's time to move over 2 purls. Here's a diagram in case my words do not make sense (dark = purl, white = knit):
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You just keep knitting and purling along as established above, until the body is about 6" from the cast-on edge. Begin Decreases - Remember, at same time, continue your purl pattern as established. (See "another note" above). Round 1: k5, (k2tog, k10) 9 times, k2tog, k9. (92 sts) Round 2: \* k2, k2tog. Repeat \* to end. (69 sts) Round 3: Work one round even. Round 4: \* k1, k2tog. Repeat \* to end. (46 sts) (You may need to switch to DPNs at this point.) Round 5: Work one round even. Round 6: K2tog to end. (23 sts) Round 7: Work one round even. (From here on you will stop the purl pattern and work straight through the decreases). Round 8: K2tog to last stitch, k1. Round 9: K2tog to end. (6 sts) Cut yarn, pull through the center top and weave in ends. Wear with joy!