HODGEPODGE: A Top Down Pullover in Four Colors
A pattern by L. C. Price for Sorlenna's Studio @2014
Sizes S, M, L, XL (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)" bust: this pullover has a g0od bit of ease for comfort and warmth. Project is worked from the top down in the round. Materials: Three circular needles, size 8 US/5mm, two 16" and one at least 29" long (change needle size if needed to obtain gauge), dpns or 9" or 12" circular needle for sleeve cuffs, stitch markers, 3 of one color (to set off sections) and 1 of another color (for end of round); worsted weight yarn in four coordinated colors (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300 yds total). Gauge: 20 sts and 24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch Model (size M) uses Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Tweed (80% Peruvian Highland Wool, 20% Donegal Tweed, 110 yds/50g) in Wellies Heather (black, 3 skeins [235 yds]), Sequoia Heather (dark green, 4 skeins [415 yds]), Flagstone Heather (gray, 3 skeins [235 yds]), and Reindeer Heather (brown, 2 skeins [210 yds])=1085 yds total. Label or make a list of each color and assign each a letter (color A, B, C, and D). With color A and a 16" circular needle [Note: for a smaller circumference neck, cast on and work the first 5 rounds of your choice of neckline, below, then switch to the size needle that makes gauge and continue as directed.], cast on 88 (92, 96, 100) sts. Place the different color marker for end of round and join (switch to longer needle when stitches are sufficient). For model sweater, A=gray, B=black, C=brown, D=green. Abbreviations: k=knit, p=purl, pm=place marker, kfb=knit in front and back of stitch (increases by one), k2tog=knit two stitches together, ssk=slip two stitches to right needle, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit them together Round 1 (place markers for increases in this round, signaled by pm): K36 (38, 40, 42) for front, pm, k12, pm, k28 (30, 32, 34) for back, pm, k12.
Choose the neckline:
For a closer/ribbed neckline: Work k1, p1 ribbing for 2": [\*K1, p1. Repeat from \* around.]. For a rolled neckline: Knit 4 more rounds, slipping markers as you go (now and throughout). Continue as follows: Round 6: \*K1, kfb, k to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker. Round 7: Join Color B (do not break A). Knit to end of round. Round 8: Join Color C (do not break A or B). \*K1, kfb, k to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker. Repeat from \* to end of round. Round 9: Join Color D (do not break other yarns). Knit to end of round. Repeat the increase and knit rounds (rounds 8-9, picking up a new color each round instead of rejoining, making sure to snug up the unused yarns by bringing the working yarn underneath them) 24 (26, 30, 33) times. You should have 280 (300, 336, 364) sts total, ending with round 8.
Separate sleeves and body
Round 10: K84 (90, 100, 108) sts for front, remove marker. Cast on 2 sts. Onto 16" circular needle, k 60 (64, 72, 78) sleeve stitches (these will be held aside). Using main needle, K76 (82, 92, 100) sts for back, cast on 2 sts. Using second 16" circular needle, k60 (64, 72, 78) sleeve stitches and hold aside. You will now work only on the main needle to complete the body. Keep the end of round marker. You may wish to cap the sleeve needles to be sure the stitches do not slip off. Working around body stitches only on main needle, push gap closed and pick up the next color in line. Break the other three colors. With the remaining color, knit 5 rounds (162, 174, 194, 210 sts). Break that color and join the next color in line. Knit 7 rounds. Break that color and join a third color. Knit until body measures 7 (8, 9, 10)" from bottom of armhole. Break this yarn and join the fourth color. Work for another 3 (4, 5, 5)" [longer if you prefer and have extra yarn, then work the last 1" in k1, p1 rib, using another color if you wish]. Bind off all stitches. Add buttons or other embellishments to right front edge (or wherever you wish!).
SLEEVES
have 60 (64, 72, 78) sts set aside on spare needles for each sleeve
With right side facing, join one color yarn at underarm. Knit to end. Cast on 2 sts at end of round. Place marker for end of round. Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until sleeve measures 1" from underarm. 62 (66, 74, 80) stitches
Begin decreases (Read the entire section for sleeve directions before beginning so you note the color changes):
For size SMALL: Round 1: K2tog, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk. Rounds 2-5: Knit. Repeat these 5 rounds until there are 52 sts on needle (you may need to switch to dpns or a shorter needle as stitches decrease; Magic Loop or two circulars techniques also work). Work the even rounds before changing color each time. Change to another color (if you wish, change colors more often or less often; I changed the colors an extra time in the second sleeve to use up the last bits of the green yarn). Repeat these 5 rounds until there are 42 sts on needle. Change to another color. Continue knitting even until sleeve is 2" longer than desired length (edge will roll or work Alternative sleeve cuff: Work k1, p1 ribbing for the last 2"). Be sure to count the rows so you know how many to work on the second sleeve. Bind off all stitches. Sew up underarm hole and weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve, using a different order of colors. For MEDIUM: Round 1: K2tog, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk. Rounds 2-6: Knit. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 56 sts on needle (you may need to switch to dpns or a shorter needle as stitches decrease; Magic Loop or two circulars techniques also work). Work the even rounds before changing color each time. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 48 sts on needle. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 42 sts on needle. Change to another color. Continue knitting even until sleeve is 2" longer than desired length (edge will roll or work Alternative sleeve cuff: Work k1, p1 ribbing for the last 2"). Be sure to count the rows so you know how many to work on the second sleeve. Bind off all stitches. Sew up underarm hole and weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve, using a different order of colors. For LARGE: Round 1: K2tog, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk. Rounds 2-5: Knit. Repeat these 5 rounds until there are 58 sts on needle (you may need to switch to dpns or a shorter needle as stitches decrease; Magic Loop or two circulars techniques also work). Work the even rounds before changing color each time. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 50 sts on needle. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 46 sts on needle. Change to another color. Continue knitting even until sleeve is 2" longer than desired length (edge will roll or work Alternative sleeve cuff: Work k1, p1 ribbing for the last 2"). Be sure to count the rows so you know how many to work on the second sleeve. Bind off all stitches. Sew up underarm hole and weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve, using a different order of colors. For X-LARGE: Round 1: K2tog, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk. Rounds 2-4: Knit. Repeat these 4 rounds until there are 74 sts on needle (you may need to switch to dpns or a shorter needle as stitches decrease; Magic Loop or two circulars techniques also work). Work the even rounds before changing color each time. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 56 sts on needle. Change to another color. Repeat these 6 rounds until there are 48 sts on needle. Change to another color. Continue knitting even until sleeve is 2" longer than desired length (edge will roll or work Alternative sleeve cuff: Work k1, p1 ribbing for the last 2"). Be sure to count the rows so you know how many to work on the second sleeve. Bind off all stitches. Sew up underarm hole and weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve, using a different order of colors.
Knitting design and photos by L. C. Price @2014
Every effort has been made to create an error free pattern. If you should find an error or have a question, email me at sorlenna@yahoo.com This pattern may not be reproduced or sold. You may do as you wish with the finished knitted project.
