Crochet Pattern for Dolly the Sheep by Galina Astashova - Intermediate Skill Level

Little Owl's Hut

Crochet Pattern

By Galina Astashova

Skill level: Intermediate

About this pattern

Dolly is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. Move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one. I use USA terminology for my pattern (don't worry if you use UK terms, all the differences are explained in the pattern). This pattern is easy to follow with step-by-step instructions.

Dolly the Sheep!

Hello! My name is Dolly

You will ask: "Why Dolly?’ Simply because you can crochet this toy in a few hours, it's easy to make, and it doesn't require special skills. You can use leftover yarn in any colour, so you can clone the sheep in any quantity you wish.

Counting sheep could be a great method to fall asleep but... wouldn't it be nicer to hug one of these sweet fluffy pals? This toy is intended for children over 3 years old, and it's soft and has interesting features, so your child definitely would like to play with it. Ready? Let's begin... Happy crocheting!

Finished size Approx. 11.5 inches (29 cm) long or 8 inches (20 cm) - it depends on yarn Materials and tools You will need two types of yarn: 1。 Very fluffy yarn (Bouclé) for the body 2. Smooth yarn for the muzzle, eyes, ears, legs and hooves 3 colors - white for eyes, brown for hooves, and third for the muzzle and legs. Hook matching to the yarn thickness (see “"Gauge”’ section) Two small black beads for eyes. Polyester fiberfill (stuffing) One beautiful button for the tail / Decorative flower. Yarn and hook suggestions

Hook conversion chart

Tip (marker)

If you don't have stitch markers, you can always use a scrap of contrasting yarn instead.

Abbreviations

ch = chain inc = increasing (2 sc in 1 st) ins = insert dec = decreasing (sc2tog) sc2tog = single crochet two together Rnd = round st(s) = stitch(s) sl st = slip stitch sc = single crochet pic = picture

Tip

You may use any yarn you have to crochet Dolly. Smooth yarn should be thinner then the yarn for the body. It is better to use boucle yarn for the body. Make the swatch first to be sure that you have chosen the right yarn. See “Gauge” section.

Gauge (tension) IT IS VERY IMPORTANT!

To make sure that you have chosen the right yarns crochet 2 swatches first. First: Work first swatch using smooth yarn and matching hook (use smaller hook than suggested on the yarn label). Crochet tight. Second: Work second swatch using boucle yarn and matching hook (use smaller hook than suggested on the yarn label). Crochet loose. Instruction for the both swatches: Rnd 1: 6 sc, in a magic ring. Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts. Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts. Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts. Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts. Compare your swatches. Small swatch should be almost 2-3 times smaller then the big one. If not, take bigger hook than you used before and work another swatch using boucle yarn or you may try to crochet small swatch tighter using smaller hook or thinner yarn. If it does not help - choose different yarn and make another swatches.

USA/UK terminology comparison chart.

Other differences in crochet terminology used: Skill levels

Projects for first-time crocheters using basic stitches. Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, midlevel shaping and finishing.

Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping and refined finishing.

Muzzle

Use smooth yarn and crochet tight Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts Rnd 6-8: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sc. Rnd 9: 10 sc, skip 5 sts (this will be the right nosti

the skipped part inwards, 2 sc, as you work the third sc, pick up (work through) the centre　of the5　missed stitches (this is done in order to secure the position of the nostrils), 1 sc, skip 5 (for the left nostril), 6 sc = 20 sts (See “Explanation in details" on the last page if needed) Rnd 10: 4 dec, 4 sc, then hook stitch from the main row and 3rd st of skipped 5 of the left nostril and do 1 sc, 3 sc, 2 dec = 14 sts Rnd 11-13: 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts Stuff the bottom of the muzzle Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts to marker (do not replace marker yet), 2 sc, place marker. It is your new starting point for the next round.

Rnd 15: 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 18 sts Rnd 16: 6 sc, 8 inc, 4 sc = 26 sts Rnd 17: 1 sc in each st around = 26 sts Rnd 18: 5 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 28 sts Rnd 19: 5 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 30 sts Rnd 20: 5 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 32 sts Rnd 21: 5 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 34 sts Rnd 22: 5 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 36 sts Rnd 23: 5 sc, 1 inc, 26 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 38 sts Rnd 24: 5 sc, 1 inc, 28 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 40 sts Rnd 25: 5 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 cc - AA ctc Rnd 26: 5 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 48sts Rnd 27: 1 sc in each st around = 48 sc. Fasten off by making 1 sl st, finish off and weave in loose end.

Body

Use Boucle yarn and do not crochet too tightly Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts Rnd 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 48 sts Rnd 9: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 54 sts Rnd 10-13: 1 sc in each st around = 54 sts Rnd 14: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 48 sts Rnd 15: 1 sc in each st around = 48 sts Rnd 16: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 42 sts Rnd 17: 1 sc in each st around = 42 sts Rnd 18: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 36 sts Rnd 19: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts Rnd 20: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 30 sts Rnd 21: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts Rnd 22: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 24 sts Rnd 23: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 24: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 18 sts Rnd 25-26: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts Rnd 27: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 12 sts Rnd 28-29: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Loosely stuff the body and neck Rnd 30: 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec = 10 sts Rnd 31-33: 1 sc in each st around = 10 sts Rnd 34: 3 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc = 16 sts Rnd 35: 3 inc, 10 sc, 3 inc = 22 sts Rnd 36-37: 1 sc in each st around = 22 sts

Tip

Compare the diameter of the body with the diameter of the muzzle. Two parts should be almost the same size (diameter of the end of the body can be slightly bigger then the diameter of the muzzle). If the muzzle slightly bigger you can undo the last 4 rows of the body and crochet it again using bigger hook. If the diameter of the muzzle is much bigger then the diameter of the body it means that you have chosen the wrong type of yarn or wrong size of the hook - go to section "Gauge" and make the swatch first to chose the right yarn and hook. Finish with 1 sl st. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Ears (make 2)

Use smooth yarn Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring Rnd 2: 5 inc = 10 sts Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 5 = 15 sts Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 5 = 20 sts Rnd 5-7: 1 sc in each st around = 20 sts Rnd 8: 3 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc = 16 sts Rnd 9: 2 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc = 12 sts Rnd 10-14: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Row 15: Fold bottom edge and then hook simultaneously both sides of the fold crochet 6 sc

Fold together the long part of the ear (from 9 to 15 rows). Using flat stitches sew opposite sides together Leave long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 4)

Start with smooth yarn main colour Rnd 1: ch 10 and form a circle = 10 sts Rnd 2-20: 1 sc in each st around = 10 sts Attach brown yarn for hooves Rnd 21-24: 1 sc in each st around = 10 sts Fold bottom edge and then hook simultaneously both sides of the fold crochet 5 sc Stuff lightly.

Eyes (make 2)

Use white smooth yarn Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts Rnd 4-5: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts Rnd 6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6, 1 sl st = 13 sts Fasten off and weave in loose end. Stuff lightly.

Assembly

Because of the two types of yarn used and the different thickness of crochet, the head and the body will have a different stitch count at the end, however they will look about the same. When you sew the muzzle to the body the increase in the last row of the body should face upwards to the top of the head. Stuff the head gradually. Sew ears and eyes to the head. Sew ears to the fluffy part of the head (see pic. below) Sew legs to the body (see pic. below)

To sew pupil bead to the eye enter the needle behind the ear and exit at the center of the eye, fasten the bead and exit behind the ear, tighten the yarn. Repeat 2-3 times for a better fix. Tightening makes the pupil sink inside the eye, plus it also creates the right shape for the head. Sew the button to make a tail. You can sew a decorative flower or bow on the top of the head if you wish

Nose explanation in details

Rnd 9: 10 sc, skip 5 sts (this will be the right nostril) push the skipped part inward and insert hook into the 6th stitch

2 sc, as you work the third sc, pick up (work through) the centre of the 5 missed stitches (this is done in order to secure the position of the nostrils),

1 sc, skip 5 (for the left nostril)

6sc = 20 sts That is how the nose looks when the round 9 is finished:

Rnd 10: 4 dec, 4 sc, then hook stitch from the main row and 3rd st of skipped 5 of the left nostril and do 1 sc,

3 sc, 2 dec = 14 sts That is how the nose looks when the round 10 is finished:

Appendix 1

STITCHESUSEDIN THE PATTERN

Slip knot

Loop the yarn around your left index finger.

Slip the yarn from your finger, and hold the loop between your thumb and index finger.

Use the crochet hook, held in your right hand, to draw the loop up and around the hook.

Chain (ch)

Start with slip knot, yarn over, pull the strand of yarn though the loop on your hook - you've got one chain. Continue to repeat the process to create more chains.

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Insert the hook in the next chain, yarn over and pull the strand of yarn through the chain and the loop on the hook.

Single Crochet (sc)

Insert the hook in the chain, yarn over, pull the strand of yarn through the chain, yarn over again and pull the strand of yarn through both loops on the hook. Starting from round 2 insert the hook in the stitch of previous round.

Decrease (dec)

In the place where you need decrease pull up a loop in next 2 stitches of previous round, yarn over, pull the strand of yarn through all 3 loops on the hook, counts as one single crochet.

Increase (inc)

In the beginning (end or middle) of the row make 2 single crochets in 1 stitch of previous round.

Half double crochet (hdc)

Yarn over, insert the hook in the chain or in the stitch of previous round and pull the yarn through. Yarn over again and gently pull the wrapped hook through the center of all 3 loops on your hook.

Double crochet (dc)

Yarn over, insert the hook in the chain or in the stitch of previous round and pull the yarn through.

Yarn over again and gently pull the wrapped hook through the center of the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over again and draw your yarn through the last 2 loops on the hook.

Fasten Off Yarn

When you get to the end of your crochet design and you'll need to fasten off the yarn. Fastening off crochet is a fancy way to say “cut the yarn and secure it." Cut the yarn about 15 cm (6 inches) from the hook then using your hook, draw the cut end of the yarn through the last remaining loop on your hook.

Weaving in ends

When the work is completed it is necessary to weave in all ends. 1. Thread one end through a tapestry needle 2. Weave the 15 cm (6 inches) tail of yarn up and down through 3 or 4 stitches — kind of in a zigzag pattern (try not to split the yarn of the stitches). 3. To make the end really secure go back the way you came, weaving the end backwards through those same few stitches. 4. Cut the yarn about 0.5 cm (1/4 inch) from the fabric and gently pull the fabric. The end magically disappears, and your work is secure. Second option (when changing colors). You can crochet over the yarn ends, which reduces the work in the future. When you change color, put the new yarn on the stitches of the previous row and crochet over it (the end will be inside the ‘fabric'). In this case you need to cut the yarn in 5 cm (2 inches). FREE Crochet Pattern on our Facebook page www.facebook.com/Littleowlshut

Crochet patterns available for sale at Little Owl's Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com

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