Skill Sampler Afghan: A Comprehensive Guide to Advanced Knitting Techniques and Patterns

Skill Sampler Afghan

By Brynn Riordan (ItsBrynn) Patternisavailable asa freeRavelry download at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skill-sampler-afghan This 12-square afghan was designed as a knit along project for the K.0.M. Rivers Knitting Guild to learn new knitting methods. Each square was released at our monthly meeting and supported throughout the month at our weekly gatherings. The techniques were suggested by members to build their knitting repertoire. This pattern assumes knitters are at an Advanced-Beginner or greater skill level. All blocks begin, end, and are edged by a garter-stitch border. Block 1: Knits and Purls, reading a written pattern Block 2: Entrelac, short rows, increase and decrease, picking up stitches Block 3: Cables, reading charts, cabling without an extra needle Block 4: Twisted Stitches/Bobbles, repetitive charts, knitting backward Block 5: Lace/Beads, lifelines, design modification Block 6: Short Rows Block 7:Doubleknit/Buttonholes Block 8: Brioche Block 9: Intarsia Block 10: Mosaic Block 11: Fair Isle Block 12: TBD; blocking, assembly pproximately 12" x 12" and a finished afghan will measure approximately 36" x 48' Yarn: Worsted weight. 1400 - 1700 yards for entire blanket. The fewer colors you use, the less yarn you'll need. Each square uses approximately 120-140 yards. Gauge: While gauge is not important for this blanket, it is imperative that you make your blocks as similar as possible. Please avoid changing yarn types or needles between blocks. The gauge for my blocks is 4 stiches and 6 rows over 1" in garter stitch. Needles: US Size 10/6mm straights or 20"-24" circulars Other notions: Stitch markers, Cable needle, Row Counter

Block One: Knits and Purls Creating Texture with Simple Stitches!

This first square will help you explore the kind of texture that can be created with those two basic stitches: knit and purl. It will also refresh your pattern-reading skills! CO 48 sts using the Long Tail method. Bottom border: Knit in garter stitch for 6 rows Side border: Knit first and last 4 sts in each row. Center pattern below DOES NOT contain border stitches. Center pattern (3-stitch Basket Weave): Row 1: \*p7, k3\* (Rpt \* 3 more times for a total of 40 sts) Row 2: \*p3, k7\* 4 times Row 3: Repeat Row 1 Row 4: Purl all sts Row 5: \*p2, k3, p5\* 4 times Row 6: \*k5, p3, k2\* 4 times Row 7: Repeat Row 5 Row 8: Purl all sts Repeat rows 1-8 until center measures appx. 10", finishing after row 4 or 8. Top Border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows, bind off loosely.

Block Two: EntrelaC (Slip stitch version) Increase, decreases, and selvages, Oh my!

Entrelac can be a challenge to get started. The pattern doesn't really begin to make sense until you're about 2 or 3 rows into it. Rather than do a standard Entrelac, I've substituted a slip-stitch version that gives a loose and very easy-to-read selvage edge to help new knitters identify EXACTLY which stitches to pick up and knit. For this Square, we will include the border stitches in each row count because of the unusual nature of the stitch pattern. Do not add the border stitches except where indicated in the pattern. CO 48 sts using the Long Tail method. Bottom border: Knit in garter stitch for 6 rows Setup Row: k4, pm, \*k2tog, k1, k2tog\* 8x, pm, k4 = 32 sts. Round 1: Base row triangles (wrong side) Row 1: k4 for border, slm, p2, turn Row 2 (rs): sl 1, k1, turn Row 3: sl 1, p2, turn Row 4: sl 1, k2, turn Row 5: sl 1, p3, turn Row 6: sl 1, k3, turn Row 7: sl 1, p4, turn Row 8: sl 1, k4, turn Row 9: sl 1, p5, turn Row 10: sl 1, k5, turn Row 11: sl 1, p6, turn Row 12: sl 1, k6, turn Row 13: sl 1, p7, pm, p2,turn Repeat rounds 2-13 two more times fo after the p7) Slm, k4.Turn. End of round one.

Abbreviations:

k2tog = Knit two stitches together p2tog = Purl two stitches together x = times pm = Place marker slm = Slip marker sl = Slip (as if to purl) kfb = Knit into the front and back loops of the same stitch (increase) wyf = With yarn in front ssk = Slip (as if to knit), Slip (as if to knit), Knit both sts together through the back loops Right edge triangle Row 1 (rs): K4, slm, k2, turn Row 2 (ws): sl1, p1, slm, k4, turn Row 3: K4, slm, kfb, ssk, turn Row 4: sl1, p2, slm, k4, turn Row 5: K4, slm, kfb, k1, ssk, turn Row 6: sl1, p3, slm, k4, turn Row 7: K4, slm, kfb, k2, ssk, turn Row 8: sl1, p4, slm, k4, turn Row 9: K4, slm, kfb, k3, ssk, turn Row 10: sl1, p5, slm, k4, turn Row 11: K4, slm, kfb, k4, ssk, turn Row 12: sl1, p6, slm, k4, turn Row 13: K4, slm, kfb, k5, ssk, slm End of right edge triangle. Pick up and knit Slip-Stitch Selvage edges:

Round 2: (right side) continued Right side Diamond Row 1: Pick up and knit 8 sts from selvage of triangle below, turn Row 2: sl1, p7, turn Row 3: sl1, k6, ssk turn. Rpt Rows 2 and 3 until all sts on lower triangle have been used (do not purl back). Slm Rpt Diamond 1 more time. Left edge triangle Row 1: Pick up and knit 8 sts, pm, k4, turn Row 2: K4, slm, P8, turn Row 3: Sl1, k5, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 4: K4, slm, p7, turn Row 5: Sl1, k4, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 6: K4, slm, p6, turn Row 7: Sl1, k3, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 8: K4, slm, p5, turn Row 9: Sl1, k2, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 10: K4, slm, p4, turn Row 11: Sl1, k1, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 12: K4, slm, p3, turn Row 13: Sl1, ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 14: k4, slm, p2, turn Row 15: ssk, slm, k4, turn Row 16: k4, remove marker, (one st remains) End of Round 2 Row 1: Pick up and purl 7 sts from the selvage edge of the triangle below. Row 2: sl1, k7, turn Row 3: sl1, p6, p2tog, turn Rpt Rows 2 and 3 until all sts on next triangle are used. re times, picking up 8 sts from selvage edge below on Row 1. Slm, k4. End of Rounc Repeat Round 2. Repeat Round 3. Repeat Round 2. Row /: iop euge tlldnigie (wronig siue) Row 1: Sl1, pick up & purl 8 more sts from the selvage edge of the triangle below, turn (9sts total) Row 2: Sl1, k7, sl1, turn Row 3: P2tog, p6, p2tog, turn Row 4: Sl1, k6, sl1, turn Row 5: P2tog, p5, p2tog,turn Row 6: Sl1, k5, sl1, turn Row 7: P2tog, p4, p2tog, turn Row 8: Sl1, k4, sl1, turn Row 9: P2tog, p3, p2tog, turn Row 10: Sl1, k3, sl1, turn Row 11: P2tog, p2, p2tog, turn Row 12: Sl1, k2, sl1, turn Row 13: P2tog, p1, p2tog, turn Row 14: Sl1, k1, sl1, turn Row 156: P2tog, p3tog, turn Row 16: SI2, turn Row 17: P2tog (one st remains) Rpt 2 more times, k4 End of round. You should have only the one active st and the 4 left and 4 right side border sts left o needle. To finish the top border, we will need to pick up stitches from our cast-off triangle edge to create the first row of border stitches.

\*NOTE: Here we will pick up the FRONT loop of the slipped sts for a cleaner look\*

We will also be doing our increases back to the 48 stitches on this row. With the left needle, pick up a total of 23 stitches across the FRONT loops of the selvage edge. You should have a total of 32 live sts: 4 on each edge and 24 in the center (one is your sl st from the row before), k4, turn. K4, \*kfb, k1, kfb.\* Rpt to end of finished edge, k4. 48 sts. Turn. K all sts, turn. Rpt 3 more times. Bind off loosely. http://m.dummies.com/how-to/content/the-basics-of-entrelac-knitting.html

Block Three: Cables

C'mon baby, let's do the twist! Cables can be confusing. Confusing charts, confusing needle positions, and confusing stitches. But the gorgeous results are SO worth the effort of learning and mastering this versatile and (with a little practice) surprisingly easy skill. You'll wonder why you didn't give it a try earlier! Charts are quite intimidating the first time you try to work one. You're not sure where to start or what the symbols mean, and it's hard to see how the final design willook. Hopefully, this will de-mystify things a bit.

Chart rules:

1. Always read the instructions! Although there are standards that most pattern makers follow, you never know when a "creative" pattern maker will throw in a non-standard stitch or symbol. The KEY or LEGEND is an important part of any chart. Embrace it! 2. Charts start at the bottom right and move across and up, just like your knitting does. Odd numbered rows are worked on the front, even numbered rows are worked on the back. Like many cable charts, this one has the even rows simply mirroring the odd row below each of them. 3. Even row symbols are the OPPOsITE of their odd row counterparts. Yes, this is confusing, so what's new? Basically, a KNIT symbol on an even row means you should PURL it. A PURL symbol on an even row means you should KNIT it. Basically all symbols are written for the FRONT of your work, regardless of which side you are workingon. 4. Tools are your friends! Charts are excellent opportunities to use all those fancy gadgets you bought but don't know what to do with. Highlighter tape, row counters, stitch markers, cable needles, or humble Post-lt Notes al come in handy when you're getting your feet wet. 5. Don't get overwhelmed. Just take one stitch, one row, one cable at a time. Don't focus on what's ahead, just focus on getting the NEXT stitch right and before you know it, you'll be halfway through the chart like a BOSS! This chart presents 4 different types of Cable stitches: The Twisted Cable, the Traveling Cable, the Split Cable, and the Braid cable. I've also added a Mock Cable: The 3-Stitch Twist, both left and right versions. Let's talk about each of these. · Twisted cable: This is the most standard cable stitch and mine includes a "middle" stitch that helps set off the vertical parts. Traveling cable: this 2 stitch cable makes an obvious "outline" and is easily moved around patterns to make intricate designs such as Celtic knots or frames (like in this pattern). · Split Cable: this stitch really moves your stitches around! We use it to create texture for our owl. Braid Cable: I've used the classic three stranded braid cable. 3-Stitch Twist: This one isn't technically a cable since no live stitches actually leave the needle, but it mimics a cable closely enough that it creates interest and texture. Cabling without a needle can really speed up your work. While it sounds intimidating to remove live stitches from one needle and transfer them to another, with care, practice and patience, it can be done. The trick is to avoid jostling your work in the middle of a stitch and have a firm grip on the stitches below the live stitches while completing the transfer. An excellent video on CABLES WITHOUT A CABLE NEEDLE can be found at KnitPurlHunter.com, or you can try this variation that I use from KnittingHelp.com. My instructions are written for cabling without a needle.

Legend of Stitches Used in Chart

Purl on right side, Knit on wrong side Place bead (optional)

Skip first 2 sts. Slip tip of right needle into BACK of third st. Pinch and hold base of all three sts and slide off left needle.Pick up 2 right (loose) sts in the FRONT with left needle. Move st from right needle to left needle.Purl first st,knit next 2 sts.

Skip first st. Slip tip of right needle into FRONT of second 2 sts. Pinch and hold base of allthree sts and slide off left needle.Pick up right (loose) stitch in the BACK with left needle.Move 2 sts from right needle to left needle.Knit first 2 sts,Purl last st.

Skip first 2 sts. Slip tip of right needle into BACK of second 2 sts. Pinch and hold base of all four sts and slide off left needle. Pick up 2 right (loose) sts in the FRONT with left needle. Move 2 stsfromright needle to left needle.Knit all sts.

Skip first 2 sts. Slip tip of right needle into FRONT of second 2 sts. Pinch and hold base of all four sts and slide off left needle. Pick up 2 right (loose) sts in the BACK with left needle. Move 2 sts from right needle toleft needle.Knit all sts.

Skip first 2 sts. Slip tip of right needle into BACK of second 2 sts.Pinch and hold base of all foursts and slide off left needle.Pickup 2 right (loose)sts intheFRONT with left needle. Move 2 stsfrom right needle toleft needle.Purl first 2 sts,Knit second 2 sts.

Skip first 2 sts. Slip tip of right needle into FRONT of second 2 sts. Pinch and hold base of all four sts and slide off left needle. Pick up 2 right (loose) sts in the BACK with left needle. Move 2 sts from right needle to left needle.Knit first 2 sts,Purl second 2 sts.

Skip first 3 sts. Slip tip of right needle into BACK of second 3 sts.Pinch and hold base of all six sts and slide off left needle. Pick up 3 right (loose) sts in the FRONT with left needle.Move 3 stsfrom right needle to left needle.Knit all sts.

Skip first 3 sts. Slip tip of right needle into FRONT of second 3 sts.Pinch and hold base of all six sts and slide off left needle. Pick up 3 right (loose) sts in the BACK with left needle.Move 3 sts from right needle toleft needle.Knit all sts.

1F 2F 3F

Skip first 2 sts. Knit into the FRONT of the third st (1F), but don't remove from left needle. Knit intotheFRONTof thesecond st(2F),but don't remove from theleft needle.Knit into theFRONT of thefirstst(3F),and remove all threestsfrom theleft needle. Skip first 2 sts.Knit into the BACK of the third st(1B),but don't remove from left needle.Knit into the BACK of the second st (2B), but don't remove from the left needle.Knit into the BACK ofthefirstst(3B),andremoveallthreestsfromtheleftneedle

CO 48 sts using the Long Tail method. Bottom border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows (the 6th row will be our set up round) Side border: Knit first and last 4 sts in each row. Chart DOES NOT contain border stitches. Set up round: (k4 border) \*P3, kfb\* 9x, P4 (k4 border) (49 center sts + 8 side sts.) crease round: (k4 border) \*K3, k2tog\* 9x, k4 (k4 border) (40 center sts + 8 side sts. Top border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows. Bind off loosely.

Block Four: Twists and Bobbles

Otherwise known as "Stitches designed to slow you down"..tee hee Twists and Bobbles take a little bit of attention to master, but once learned, they are terrific tools to keep in your knitting arsenal. Twisted stitches aren't much different than regular knits and purls, but simply working the back leg of a stitch causes the stitch to twist and this helps it pop out more from the background of other stitches. Bobbles, too, are all about the popping out! There are many versions of bobbles out there, and I've chosen a 3x4 for us on this square. That's 3 stitches wide by 4 rows high. You'll learn more about that later. Another thing we'll focus on this month is repeating charts. These are used when the overall piece will have a repeating pattern. Rather than charting out the entire piece, a designer will give you the basic chart and instruct you how many repeats to do. For instance, in this design we will do 3 horizontal and 4 vertical repeats of the chart. So you'll knit Row 1 (Sts 1-14), then keep going with another Row 1 (sts 1-14) and yet another Row 1 (sts 1-14). Turn your work and knit Row 2 three times. Turn and knit Row 3 three times, etc. After you complete all 14 rows, start with Row 1 again. You'll see the pattern begin to develop. Note that unlike our cable charts, the even numbered rows are NoT mirrors of the rows below them. You'll need to PAY ATTENTION to the charts for correct stitches! The last technique I'd like to introduce is knitting backward. This is a way to work the back side of your piece without actually turning your work over. It's quite handy when making bobbles and especially knitting short rows (which we'll tackle soon). Start practicing now and see how good you can get! CO 48 sts using the Long Tail method. Bottom border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows (the 6th row will be our set up round) Side border: Knit first and last 4 sts in each row. Chart DOES NOT contain border stitches. Set up round: (k4 border) Kfb, knit to last center st, kfb (k4 border) (42 center sts + 8 side sts.) ork 3 horizontal and 4 vertical repeats of chart plus border stitches for next 56 rov nd: (k4 border) K2tog, k to last center st, k2tog (k4 border) (40 center sts + 8 side st Top border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows. Bind off loosely.

Purl on Right side, knit on Wrong side

3x4 Bobble: Kfbf in same st. Turn work and purl 3 back into new sts (or Knit Backward - see below). Turn work and k3. Turn work and p3tog. Twisted Stitch: ktb on the Right side, ptb on the Wrong side Left Leaning Twisted Stitch: Sk 1st st. ktb of 2nd st. Without removing sts from needle, ktb of 1st st. Rem both sts from leftneedle Right Leaning Twisted Stitch: Sk 1st st. K 2nd st. Without removing sts from needle, ktb of 1"t st. Rem both sts from leftneedle I chose this design because here in Ohio in early spring, when we start seeing beautiful soft pussywillow branches, we know warmer weather is on its way. 2013-2014 has been an especially brutal winter in our area, so we are looking forward to all the pussywillows we can get! So now that you've seen the chart, let's go over the new special stitches: Bobbles: A Kfbf is where you knit into the front leg of a stitch, then in the back leg of the same stitch, then back again into the front of that same stitch all while keeping the sts on the left needle. When you're done with the 3, then remove the left needle. This is a 1 to 3 stitch increase. (Some bobbles use a 1 to 5 increase which is Kfbfbf) We will work these same 3 stitches over a total of 4 rows. Be sure to snug up the sts on either side of bobble both before you knit it and after you finish it to keep the holes at a minimum. It also helps to snug up the surrounding sts on the next row as well. You may have to "pop" your bobble out too, if it looks inverted. Just put your finger in the back of it and turn it right side Out. Twisted Stiches: Knitting (ktb) or purling (ptb) through the BACK leg of a stitch will twist that stitch. When moving a twisted stitch to the left or right, be sure to twist the correct stitch. It is nearly impossible to twist the knit stitch on a Right Leaning Twist, so I twisted it before I knit it. When ktb, insert the right needle into the back leg of the next stitch from right to left (as if to purl). When ptb, insert the right needle into the back leg from left to right (as if to knit). It's a bit confusing, but you'll see the stitch works out correctly. Knit Backwards: Try practicing this on your bobbles. After your Kfbf, DO NOT TURN your work. With yarn in back, insert the tip of the LEFT needle from left to right through the BACK loop of the 1st st on the right needle. Wrap your yarn over the top of the needle from left to right and complete the stitch. Repeat on the next two sts. That's all there is to it! Now you have 3 knit sts on the left needle, all ready to be knit again normally. Knit those sts. For the last row, insert the left needle into all three sts at once from left to right and draw the wrap through, creating a 3 to 1 decrease. Don't forget to snug up your stitch to help reduce holes!

Block Five: Lace and Beads

This is where we BEDAZZLE our knitting -- Bling it up, Baby! I think people avoid lace because it looks really hard. In truth, it can actually be really simple. Lace is made when you combine increases and decreases close together. The preferred lace increase is a Yarn Over (yo) and decreases are made by a variety of sts, most often used are k2tog or ssk. Where lace becomes challenging is when we drop a stitch or lose count of where you are. You can recover from this, but for new lace knitters, it is often easier to rip back than try to read your stitches. For this reason, LIFELINES are absolute necessities. To place a lifeline, simply thread a light yarn or heavy thread through a darning needle and draw through all live stitches on your knitting needle (don't remove your stitches from the needle). Make sure your thread is long enough to extend at least 6" on either side. Now if you need to rip back your work, the lifeline will act as a stopper and will preserve the work below it from being unraveled. To show you how much fun lace can be, I've designed a whimsical pattern to practice your skills. I've also given you the option to PLAY DESIGNER! You can choose to make your block with a puppy or kitty theme by selecting which center panel you want to try: Beaded Bone or Beaded Fish. We are also going to try our hand at beading. There are 2 methods for working beads: 1) Add all your beads at the beginning of your work or 2) Add the beads one at a time when needed. Bead selection is important. You need a bead that is appropriate for your yarn. Since our blocks are being worked in worsted weight, I would recommend a bead NO SMALLER THAN 6/0 OR "E" SIZE. Standard plastic pony beads are probably going to be too large for this application, so choose wisely. The most important thing to remember about beads is that THE HOLE needs to be big enough for a sewing needle (Method 1) or small crochet hook (Method 2) to go through.

CO 48 sts using the Long Tail method. (If using Beading Method 1 - string 120 beads on before casting on) Bottom border: Knit in garter stitch for 6 rows. and last 4 sts in each row. Center pattern below DOES NOT contain border stitches.

Center pattern:

Rows 1-12: Work Paw Print Lace Rows 1a-12, place lifeline Row 13-14: Work Chain Lace Rows 1-2 Rows 15-38: Work Bone or Fish lace panel Rows 1-24, placelifeline Row 39-40: Chain Lace Rows 1-2 Rows 41-42: Work Paw Print Lace Rows 12-11 (reverse order) Rows 43-50: Work Paw Print Lace Rows 5-10 Rows 51-54: Work Paw Print Lace Rows 4-1b (reverse order) Top border: Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows. Bind off loosely. Remove lifelines.

Abbreviations:

k2tog = Knit two stitches together yo = Wrap your working yarn around the right needle by bringing yarn under the needle toward you and up over the top yo x3 = wrap yarn around needle 3 times, knit next stitch. When you purl back, you will purl the first wrapped st, knit the second wrapped st, and purl the third wrapped st. sssk = Slip (as if to knit), Slip (as if to knit), Slip (as if to knit), knit all three sts together through the back loops ssk = Slip (as if to knit), Slip (as if to knit), Knit both sts together through the back loops

Pawprint Lace:

Row 1a: Decrease set up round: \*K2tog, k3\*, rpt to end, 32 sts. Row 1b: Increase set up round: \*Kfb, k3\*, rpt to end, 40 sts. Row 2: Purl Row 3: Knit Row 4: Purl Row 5: \*k1, k2tog, yo x3, sssk, k2\* 4 times Row 6: \*p4, k1, p3\* 4 times Row 7: \*k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1\* 4 times Row 8: Purl Row 9: \*k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2\* 4 times Row 10: Purl Row 11: Knit Row 12: Knit (place lifeline) Chain Lace: Row 1: \*K2tog, yo\* to end of round Row 2:Knit

Bone Panel: 118 beads (add a few more to be safe)

Row 1: Knit Row 2 (and all future even rows): Purl Row 3: K5, \* k2tog, yo\* x3, k10, \*yo, k2tog\* x3, K5 Row 5: K4, \*k2tog, yo\* x4, k9, \*yo, k2tog\* x4, k3 Row 7: K3, \*k2tog, yo\* x13, k3 Row 9: K4, \*yo, k2t0g\* x12, k4 Row 11: K6, \*k2t0g, yo\* x10, k6 Row 13: K7, \*yo, k2t0g\* x10, k5 Row 15: K7, \*k2tog, yo\* x10, k5 Row 17: K4, \*k2tog, yo\* x12, k4 Row 19: K3, \*k2tog, yo \* x13, k3 Row 21: K4, \*k2tog, yo\* x4, k8, \*yo, k2tog\* x4, k4 Row 23: K5, \*k2tog, yo\* x3, k11, \*yo, k2tog\* x3, K5

Fish Panel: 118 beads (you'll need a few more to be safe)

Row 1: Knit Row 2 (and all future even rows): Purl Row 3: K2, \*yo, k2tog\* x3, k9, \*k2tog, yo\* x3, k9 Row 5: K2, \*k2tog, yo\* x4, k6, \*k2tog, yo\* x5, k6 Row 7: K3, \*k2tog, yo\* 4x k2, \*k2tog, yo\* 7x, k5 Row 9: K4 \*k2tog, yo\* x12, k4 Row 11: K7, \*yo, k2tog\* x11, k3 Row 13: K7, \*yo, k2t0g\* x12, k1 Row 15: K7 \*k2tog, yo\* x11, k3 Row 17: K4 \*k2t0g, yo\* x12, k4 Row 19: K3, \*k2tog, yo\* 4x k2, \*k2tog, yo\* 7x, k5 Row 21: K2, \*k2tog, yo\* x4, k6, \*k2tog, yo\* x5, k6 Row 23: K3, \*k2tog, yo\* x3, k8, \*k2tog, yo\* x3, k9

Beading:

Method 1: Pre-string beads using a darning needle or dental floss threader. Add all beads to the yarn and slide them down and away from your working area. Bring each bead up the yarn as you draw through the k2tog st. If you place the bead just below the right needle before you draw it through, the bead will come through in the correct place.

Method 1 results in beads on a single width of yarn, offset. Method 2: Add beads one at a time with a crochet hook small enough the fit through the hole in the bead. After you complete the k2tog, remove the finished stitch from the right needle. Put the bead on the hook first, hook the finished st and slide the bead onto it. Put the st back on the right needle and continue knitting.

Method 2 results in beads over both widths of yarn, centered.