Corinthian Order MKAL: A Knit-a-Long Shawl Pattern by DeviousRose with Triangular, Crescent, and Rectangular Options

Corinthian Order MKAL by DeviousRose

Pattern page: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/corinthian-order/ Clue 3: Border chart, final clue. When placing beads, slide on bead and then slip stitch without working. Ihop you have enjoyed this knit-a-long as much as I have!

Release schedule:

-present: Prologue (yardage, bead counts, design choices and alternatives, some information on shawl structure for those new to shawls) - July 3: Clue 1 (main body, if two colours this is Colour A). Page 4 -July 17: Clue 2 (border transition, if two colours use Colour B here and after). Page 7 July 31: Clue 3 (border). Pages 8-12 August 14: We have built the temple columns: post all the spoilers you want! (Final pattern release) · Please, NO spoiler photos as your front project photo until after the MKAL is over- use the pattern teaser images or your yarn choices. Size: 80 cm x 62 cm/31.5 in x 24.5 in, but customizable with more or less repeats of main chart. Stole or scarf have directions for 55 inches-60 inch length, depending on your blocking.

Basic shawl crash course:

Please see the Prologue for basic crescent and triangular shawl construction if you have never made a shawl or the charts for the crescent and triangular options are confusing you!

Special Abbreviations:

btc- back twist cable (k tbl into 2nd st from needle, k into first st of needle normally, slip both worked sts onto workingneedle) cdc- centered double decrease (sl 2 kw, as if to k2tog, k next st, p2sso) For other abbreviations, scroll to the bottom of the document and see "Abbreviations." For chart symbols, see the chart key. For the rest, scroll to the last page. Corinthian Order, @DeviousRose

Charts/Table of Contents:

- The stitch repeat for each chart is 12 stitches. One Chart 1 repeat is about as long as the border repeat. - ws (odd) rows are NOT shown on any of the charts. These are simply purled across. - Border stitches (the k2 on either side) and edge increases are also NOT shown on the charts. -All RS rows on the crescent-shaped shawl are worked as k2, yo, ml, chart, ml, yo, k2. -All RS rows on the triangular shawl are worked as k2, chart, spine, chart, k2 -Note that one of the double decreases is a slk2tog psso (slip next st kw, k2tog, pssso).

All charts begin on:

Rectangular: page 3 Triangular: page 4 Crescent: page 5-6

Rectangular (stole/scarf):

Directions are written as scarf (stole). As with the other shape options, the chart omits the k2 on either side. CO 41 (65), or any multiple of 12+5 (chart + selvedge stitches) using a provisional cast on, so you can pick up and knit later to make both scarf halves symmetrical- and omit grafting. Work 36 in/92 cm in stockinette stitch. Pick up and knit as many stitches as you cast on from the cast on side, and begin to work each set of directions identically on both sides. Work Char 1 twice, then work Rows 2-39 (Rowss 2-38 of chart, then work a Ws row). Work chart rows with each row as k2, chart, k2! For an all-lace scarf (stole), work a few rows of Chart 1, then pick up the stitches from your provisional CO. Work the first chart row for the other half, but instead of doing the cdc as written, slip 2 sts knitwise, return to left needle, and k3tog. work a ws row and then continue chart as written. : cast on likewise, but knit in stockinette until 8 inches/20.5 cm less than desire Garter tab cast-on (for both crescent & triangular): CO 3 sts (2 sts for crescent) using knitted cast-on (you may work a provisional CO of your choice, as you will be picking these sts up) Rows 1-12 (1-6 for crescent): K across Row 13: K2, p1 (ignore this if working crescent) eft-handed) and pick up & purl 6 sts (3 for crescent), one from every other row Triangular: Turn work Cw (CCw if left-handed) and pick up & purl 1 st, then pick up & knit 2 sts [12 sts] Crescent: Turn work Cw (CCw if left-handed) and pick up & knit 2 sts [7 sts] This pick up row counts as Row 1 of the pattern (ws row). From here on, move to chart, remembering to k2, yo at the start of each row and yo, k2 at the end of each row. Alternately, you can CO 12 sts using knitted cast-on and knit 2 rows, then work k2, p8, p2 as your pre-chart row for the triangular, or CO 7, knit 2 rows, then work k2, p3, k2 for the crescent.

Triangular:

I include the spine chart on the Setup Chart for visualization, but it is not shown on the other charts for the triangular shawl. If you want, you can work a typical spine and just k2 on every row. The spine is worked as follows and remains the same throughout the whole shawl: Corinthian Order, @DeviousRose Spine directions: Row 1 (and all wS rows): p2 Row 2:btc Row 4:k2 Rebeat Rows 1-4 throuahout entire shawl Stockinette version: Cast on the same way, and work spine as indicated, but work body in stockinette until you have 378 sts on needles, or any multiple of 12 + 6 (all RS rows will be k2, yo, knit to spine, yo, knit to selvedge, yo, k2, and all ws rows will be k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2)

Crescent:

Unlike the triangular, increases are NOT shown on charts. You must work each RS chart row as k2, yo, ml, chart, ml, yo, k2. Each ws row is just k2, purl across, k2. Stockinette version: Cast on the same way, and work spin as indicated, but work body in stockinette until you have 371 sts on needles, or any multiple of 12 + 11 (all RS rows will be k2, yo, ml, knit to selvedge, ml, yo, k2, and all ws rows will be k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2)

Pilar Lace (Chart 1 Rectangular) (multiple of 12+1)

Setup chart shown with spine, edge increases, and both halves for those who have never made a triangular shawl before. The other triangular charts will only be shown for each half.

Triangular Chart 1- split in half to fit in document!

Same charts for the crescent, not rotated:

Abbreviations:

CCW counter clockwise cdc centered double decrease (sl 2 kw, as if to k2tog, k next st, p2sso) co cast on or cast off, depending on context CW clockwise k knit k2tog knit 2 together kW knitwise m1 make 1 (pick up bar between sts from previous row and knit) p purl pb place bead (after sliding bead onto stitch, DO NOT work stitch, but simple slip and continue to follow the chart) p2sso pass 2 slipped sts over psso pass slipped stitch over pw purlwise RS right side s1k2tog psso sometimes abbreviated as sssk in other patterns- slip 1 st kw, k2tog, psso (lleff-leaning double decrease) sl slip sm slip marker ssk slip, slip, knit (sl st kw, next st, psso) st(s) stitch(es) tbl through back loop WS wrong side yo yarn over

CLUE 2:

This clue is a small chart, so if you have not finished Clue I you have plenty of time still left to catch up! If you have already finished Clue 1, then you will have some rest time. Happy knitting and beading! Remember, you can replace beads with nupps if you want, but it willhave a different effect and you will use up more yardage. I also changed the column top design a little, so you will need approximately 120 more beads than first estimated, for a border motif.

Border transition (Chart 2 Rectangular) (multiple of 12+1)

Border transition (Chart 3 Triangular)

CLUE 3:

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/deviousrose

Corinthian Order, @DeviousRose

The triangular and crescent charts have been split in half for your viewing and printing convenience. This is the "master" pattern file, with all shapes included. This week I will release 3 extra pdf files for each shape. It has been fun designing this and seeing everyone's progress and takes on the project! Thanks to this, I now completely understand why designers sometimes release several updates of one pattern in the same day, and I have a deeper appreciation for designers who host knit and crochet alongs, especially mystery ones where they are the only person who fully knows what's going on. I hope you all had as much fun as I did, despite the errors that riddled the clue releases! Border (Chart 3 Rectangular) (multiple of 12+1)

Triangular Chart 4. Rotated version on following page. Please note that the symbol is used here to mean \*yo, m1\* on the right half and \*m1, yo\* on the left half of the chart!

Crescent Chart 4. Rotated version on following page, also split

Corinthian Order, @DeviousRose K1, \*k1, insert stitch-holding needle (left for right-handed people) into the front of the two stitches on the working (right) needle and k tog through front loop, similar to an ssk\*, repeat from \* to \* to cast off all sts. Fasten off and block. I usually weave in ends after blocking, but you can do it before.

Blocking a lace shawl:

After casting off, your shawl will look crumpled and not very lacy at all, so if you don't block or don't often block, you wilhave to block your lacework. There is an easy way, without too many pins and no blocking wires, and a hard way to do this. The hard way is to get all your pins and stab through each point, curve, edge, and whatnot to get the shawl into shape. This is fine for patterns with simple edges, but annoying for scalloped, petaled, or any other complex edge motif, such as the points and spires of this design. If your design is complex, it is maddening to get all. Those. Edges. Perfectly in place. Not to mention getting that spine and the top of the shawl to behave! The easy way requires waste yarn for the top edge and the cast off edge (essentially, the whole perimeter), and pins just for the points. A similar method to mine, can be found at http://www.yarnharlot.ca/blog/archives/2005/08/23/walk_around_the_block.html with pictures! You need 2 or 3 lengths of waste yarn: one for the top edge of the shawl, at least 20 cm/8 inches longer than your intended wingspan (top dimension), and one length 20 cm/8 inches than the lower outer length around the body of the shawl, or 2 lengths each 20 cm/8 inches longer than the lower outer length of each body half of the shawl. You thread the first string through the top of the shawl, either through the yarn overs or the edge stitches, and the second string through the bottom CO edge. If you have three lengths of string, repeat the motion for the second on the other half of the body with the third string. Now you go about the same way you block any item: wet the item according to the yarn you are using, such as total water immersion for strong materials like merino or other sheep wools, and THEN pinning into shape, or pinning into shape and THEN spritzing until slightly damp for fibers like alpaca or cashmere. Now, don't panic. The "pinning into shape" here isn't the hard way described in the first paragraph. Here, you simply stab two pins through your blocking surface as far apart plus wiggle room as you want your shawl to have a wingspan, and wrap each edge of the the topstring each of the pins. Now you pull out the center of the shawl to how deep you want it, and pin through where the second string is (or second string and third string). Pin out each scallop, corner, or whatever the shaping is for the edge, and the waste yarns willforce the cast off edge to follow the slopes of your lace. For this shawl, you will pull the points of the column tops out to cause them to flare. Whether you gently mist after pinning, or immerse in water before blocking, is up to you and the sort of yarnyou'veused.