Aino Haikala Designs: Knitted Lace Shawl Pattern with Modular Half-Circular Shape and Beading Options

A Knitted Lace Shawl pattern Written instructions: 7-9 Charts: pages 10-16 Aino Haikala Designs

"It was the sweetest, most mysterious-looking place any one could imagine. // There were numbers of standard roses which had so spread their branches that they werelikelittle trees. There were other trees in the garden, and one of the things which made the place look strangest and loveliest was that climbing roses had run all over them and swung down long tendrils which made light swaying curtains, and here and there they had caught at each other or at a far-reaching branch and had crept from one tree to another and made lovely bridges of themselves."F.H.Burnett:The Secret Garden

Materials

Teetee Elegant 50 g / 500 m (546 yards) (70 % wool, 30 % silk) or any other similar yarn. The total amount of yarn needed: L: 1000 yards (915 meters), M: 700 yards (640 meters), S:600 yards (550 meters). Size 8 beads (optional). The total amount of beads needed for a completely beaded shawl: L: 2200, M: 1600, S:1250.

Needle size

3,5 mm (US 4) needles.

Gauge

18 stitches and 26 rows = 4" or 10 cm in Leaves pattern on size 3,5 mm needles using lace weight yarn. Exact gauge is not important. Do note that a looser gauge will result in the use of more yardage.

Finished Size

L: 178 cm (70 inches) across by 64 cm (25 inches) down M: 164 cm (64 inches) across by 55 cm (21 inches) down S: 155 cm (60 inches) across by 48 cm (19 inches) down

Structure

With this shawl I wanted to play with the shape. My goal was to make a modular half-circular shawl and I ended up using a method I haven't seen in any other pattern before. The shape is between half-circular and crescent and it's formed by using normal and increasing motifs. The exact shape depends on the size of the shawl you choose and how you block it: the smaller sizes are designed to be more half-circular than the large size. The shawl is knitted from the center of the neck outwards. There is a three stitch garter stitch border which is formed by always knitting the first three and the last three stitches. All the wrong side rows are worked k3, p to 3 sts from end, k3. The roses used in the body of the shawl were modified from an edge pattern I designed for the Language of Roses shawl.

This pattern consists of eight different charts. The set-up chart has a twig pattern. The twigs continue in rose chart 1 and rose chart 2 and are accompanied by roses. The roses change into leaves in transition chart 1 and transition chart 2. Leaf chart 1 and leaf chart 2 continue the basic leaf pattern. Finally there is the border chart, which ends the shawl. The increases of the shawl are hidden in the charts. There are two different motifs for rose chart 2, transition chart 1, leaf chart 1 and border chart. The increasing motifs have the increases needed and they are always knitted four times per arow.

Adding beads

The pattern makes it easy to decide which sections you want to bead, as the number of beads needed for each section is included in the instructions. The model shawl is beaded starting from the transition chart 1. You can add the beads using your preferred method, like using a crochet hook. Beads are always placed before working the stitch. If the beaded stitch is k, insert a bead on the next stitch and knit it. If the beaded stitch is ssk or sssk, place the bead on the first stitch on the holding needle. If it's k2tog or sk2p, place the bead on the second stitch on the holding needle, if it's k3tog place the bead on the third stitch on the needle. After placing the bead, make the decrease normally. The bead should be placed on the topmost stitch.

Modularity

You can change the size of this shawl by knitting different amounts of the rose chart 2 or leaf charts 1 and 2. The set-up chart, rose chart 1, transition chart 1, transition chart 2 and the border chart are always knitted once. You can leave rose chart 2 out or knit it as many times as you wish.If you knit Rose chart 2 multiple times, first knit the chart from right to left (or your preferred chart reading direction) and then alternate the reading direction for each subsequent repeat. After that continue normally to the transition chart 1. Leaf charts 1 and 2 are always knitted together. You can leave both of them out or knit both of them as many times as you wish. There should always be four increasing motifs per row, however the exact place of your increasing motifs isn't important. The more evenly you place increasing motifs, the more half-circular your shawl will be. The increasing motifs of the border chart are placed more in the center in the model shawl, in order to give the shawl its crescent-like shape. It's recommended not to place the increasing motifs only on one side of the shawl (unless you know what you are doing) and think ahead where you are going to place the next set of increasing motifs if you decide not to follow the pattern as written.

For left-handed knitters

If you are a mirror-knitter (you knit from the right needle to the left needle) you can knit the right-side rows of the charts from right to left using the normal chart key or from left to right using the chart key below. The shawl is slightly asymmetric. If you follow the charts from right to left your finished object will be a mirror image of the shawl in the pictures.

Notes

· The charts do not include three stitch garter stitch border. · There is no center stitch nor are there increases in the sides of the shawl. · On wrong side rows knit the frst three and the last three stitches and purl all Other stitches. · The colored squares in the Rose charts will help you to see the outlines of the petals, but it's not necessary to see the colors in order to knit the shawl. · It's recommended to separate the increasing motifs by using contrasting stitch markers. · There are no increases in transition chart 2 and leaf chart 2. The increases have been placed in previous sections.

Abbreviations

k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together ssk = slip1, slip1, knit the slipped stitches together through the back loop k3tog = knit 3 together sk = slip1, slip 1, slip 1, knit the slipped stitches together through the back loop s2kp = slip 2 stitches together knit-wise. Knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over theknitted stitch knit 2 into 5 = \*k2tog through back loop without dropping the stitches from the holding needle, yo\*, twice for the same stitches, knit the same stitches again and now drop the stitches from the holding needle. As a result there are five stitches on the needle. knit 3 into 5 = \*k3tog through back loop without dropping the stitches from the holding needle, yo\*, twice for the same stitches, knit the same stitches again and now drop the stitches from the holding needle. As a result there are five stitches on the needle. knit 3 into 7 = \*k3tog through back loop without dropping the stitches from the holding needle, yo\*, three times for the same stitches, knit the same stitches again and now drop the stitches from the holding needle. As a result there are seven stitches on the needle. knit 1 into 5 = \*k through back loop without dropping the stitch from the holding needle, yo\*, twice for the same stitch, knit the same stitch again and now drop the stitch from the holding needle. As a result there are five stitches on the needle. knit 2 into 3 = \*k2tog through back loop without dropping the stitches from the holding needle, yo\*, once for the same stitches, knit the same stitches again and now drop the stitches from the holding needle. As a result there are three stitches on the needle. knit 1 into 3 = \*k through back loop without dropping the stitch from the holding needle, yo\*, once for the same stitch, knit the same stitch again and now drop the stitch from the holding needle. As a result there are three stitches on the needle. nupp = \*knit a stitch without dropping the stitch from the holding needle, yo\*, three times for the same stitch, knit the same stitch again and now drop the stitch from the holding needle. As a result there are seven stitches on the needle. On following WS row, purl these 7 stitches together.

Instructions

CO 3 sts provisionally using scrap yarn. Knit 9 rows with main yarn. Do not turn the work around but rotate 90 degrees clock-wise, \*pick up and knit 1 st from the garter stitch edge of the piece, yo\* four times, undo provisional cast-on and knit the 3 live sts. (14sts) K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3. Continue, following the instructions for the size you want to knit.

Large

rows 1-38 of the set-up chart once. There are four repeats of the motif in a ro Work rows 1-42 of the rose chart 1. There are four repeats of the motif in a row (174 sts). This section needs 128 beads. Work across each row (1-42) of the rose chart 2 in the following order: \*increasing motif once, normal motif once\* four times (258 sts). This section needs 192 beads. Work across each row (1-18) of the transition chart 1 in the following order: increasing motif once, normal motif three times, increasing motif once, normal motif twice, increasing motif once, normal motif three times and increasing motif once (326 sts). This section needs 148 beads. Work rows 1-28 of the transition chart 2. There are 16 repeats of the motif in a row (326 sts). This section needs 688 beads. Work across each row (1-10) of the leaf chart 1 in the following order: right side once, normal motif four times, increasing motif once, normal motif five times, increasing motif once, normal motif nine times, increasing motif once, normal motif five times, increasing motif once, normal motif four times and left side once (366 sts). This section needs 159beads. Work rows 1-10 of the leaf chart 2. There are 35 repeats of the motif in a row (366 sts). This section needs 180 beads. Work across each row (1-20) of the border charts in the following order: right side, normal motif nine times, increasing motif once, normal motif five times, increasing motif once, normal motif three times, increasing motif once, normal motif five times, increasing motif once, normal motif nine times, left side (494 sts). This section needs 638 beads. Bind off loosely, wash and block.

Medium

Work rows 1-38 of the set-up chart once. There are four repeats of the motif in a row. Work rows 1-42 of the rose chart 1. There are four repeats of the motif in a row (174 sts). This section needs 128 beads. Work across each row (1-18) of the transition chart 1 in the following order: increasing motif once, normal motif once, increasing motif once, normal motif twice, increasing motif once, normal motif once and increasing motif once (246 sts). This section needs 104beads. Work rows 1-28 of the transition chart 2. There are 12 repeats of the motif in a row (246 sts). This section needs 516 beads. Work across each row (1-10) of the leaf chart 1 in the following order: right side once, normal motif three times, increasing motif once, normal motif four times, increasing motif once, normal motif five times, increasing motif once, normal motif four times, increasing motif once, normal motif three times and left side once (286 sts). This section needs 119 beads. Work rows 1-10 of the leaf chart 2. There are 27 repeats of the motif in a row (286 sts). This section needs 140 beads. Work across each row (1-20) of the border charts in the following order: right side, normal motif six times, increasing motif once, normal motif four times, increasing motif once, normal motif three times, increasing motif once, normal motif four times, increasing motif once, normal motif six times, left side (396 sts). This section needs 510 beads. Bind off loosely, wash and block.