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Gaudi Stole
By Sue Grandfield [RiotousAssembly]
Finished size of stole: 70cm x 154cm (27.5" x 60")
Materials:
Outer:
54 test skeins $\approx\!10\mathsf{m}$ ea Wollmeise Merino Lammdochtwolle 3 skeins $\pmb{x}$ 100g Wollmeise Merino Lammdochtwolle Natural 1 skein x 100g Wollmeise Merino Lammdochtwolle Red Hot Chilli (used 60g for edging) Notes: Wollmeise Merino Lammdochtwolle is discontinued @ I've swatched with several alternatives, suggestions for substitutions given are on the last page of the pattern. \*I haven't listed the sequence of test skeins that I used; you will probably have a different collection of skeins. I can add this or send it if you are interested. PM me via Ravelry.
Lining:
$\mathbf{3\times25g}$ skeins Rowan Kid Silk Haze “Jelly" (green) $\mathbf{3\times25g}$ skeins Rowan Kid Silk Haze “Marmalade" (orange) $\mathbf{2\times25g}$ skeins Rowan Kid Silk Haze “"Candy Girl" (pink) $\mathbf{2\times25g}$ skeins Rowan Kid Silk Haze “Violetta" (purple) Note: Kid Silk Haze held double throughout Scrap yarn: Use a smooth worsted weight yarn for the provisional cast on. It MUST be smooth; otherwise it felts itself to the Wollmeise ML and is a pain to unzip! Needles: 5mm circular needle for outer (100cm +) 4.5mm circular needle for lining 5mm DPNS for edging 5mm crochet hook for provisional cast on Stitch markers (optional) Tapestry needle Gauge: 30sts: 6" over slip stitch pattern Notes: The outer section of the stole is worked sideways in the round, starting with a provisional crochet cast on. The outer section is steeked. The lining is worked backwards and forwards (l wasn't brave enough to steek Kid Silk Haze!) GAUDI has not been test knit - I'm putting it out like this before all those test skeins run out! Let me know if there are mistakes.
Abbreviations:
CO: Cast On BO: Bind off MC: Main colour (Natural/background) CC: Colour (Test skeins) CC2: Edging colour (Red Hot Chilli) DPNS: Double pointed needles RS: Right side WS: Wrong side K: Knit P: Purl St(s): stitch (es) St st: Stocking stitch PM: Place marker PU: Pick up SSK: slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit those 2 stitches together tbl Tbl: through back of loop Slip wyib: slip st as if to purl, with yarn held in back Slip wyif: slip st as if to purl, with yarn held in front
Slip Stitch Pattern:
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In other words... R1: MC Knit all stitches R2: CC \* Knit1, slip1 wyif, knit 1, slip1 wyib. Rep from \* to end R3: CC \* Knit 3, slip1 wyib. Rep from \* to end R4: MC \* Knit 1, slip1 wyib. Knit 2. Rep from \* to end R5: MC Knit all stitches R6: CC \* Knit 1, slip1 wyib, knit1, slip 1 wyif. Rep from \* to end R7: CC \* Knit 1, slip1 wyib, knit 2. Rep from \* to end R8: MC \* Knit 3, slip 1 wyib. Rep from \* to end
Instructions:
Arranging the colours:
Your set of test skeins will probably be different to mine. I recommend that you lay them all out on a table and arrange them until you find a progression of colours that looks good to you. I can send you the exact arrangement of my skeins if you like. PM me on Ravelry for details.
Joining the colours:
I used spit splicing to join all of the test skeins. I've never been very good at this, but it works a treat in Lammdochtwolle. Yes, you can use ordinary water too!
Instructions for Provisional Cast On:
To work a provisional cast on, work a crochet chain about 10 stitches longer than the number of stitches you want to cast on. Fasten off chain. I usually place a knot or loop at that end so I know which end to unzip from later. Then pick up 310 stitches with natural, knitting through the back loops of the crochet chain. The chain will be unzipped later to use in 3 needle bind off.
Outer section (worked in the round):
CO: Using 5mm crochet needle and waste yarn, cast on 310 stitches provisionally (300 stitches for body of stole, 10 stitches for the steek). Join. Work first 5 stitches for steek; K1MC, K1CC, K1MC, K1CC, K1MC. Place marker. Work next 300 sts in slip stitch pattern. Place marker. Work last 5 stitches for steek; K1CC, K1MC, KCC, K1MC, K1CC. Work in pattern until 54 test skeins has been used up, ending on row 5 or 1 so that you finish with a plain row in natural.
Casting off the steek:
On last row, work across row to last 5 steek stitches. Cast off all steek sts (i.e. 5 from end of last round and 5 from beginning of what would be the next round). You can now knit the lining back and forth. I did not cut the steek at this point - but waited until I had finished the lining. l didn't want to put too much pressure on that steek!
Lining:
Gauge: 20sts over 10cm on 4.5mm needles Change to 4.5mm circular needle and join in Kid Silk Haze Jelly/green (held doubled). Work lining back and forth in st st in stripe pattern
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RS: Knit all stitches WS: Purl all stitches
Stripe pattern:
R1-6: Jelly /green R7-12: Marmalade /orange Work rows 1-12 four times, then work 6 more rows in Jelly (Total of 54 rows) R1-2: Violetta /purple R3-6: Candy Giri /pink Repeat rows 1-6 four more times (Total of 30 rows) R1-4: Violetta /purple R5-6: Candy giri /pink Repeat rows 1-6 four more times (Total of 30 rows) R1-6: Jelly / green R7-12: Marmalade /orange Work rows 1-12 four times, and then work 6 more rows in Jelly End with a purl row. (Total of 54 rows). You will now have worked a total of 168 rows of lining if your gauge is the same as mine for the lining. If not, work a few rows and then recalculate the total number of rows you will need.
Casting off:
Unzip the provisional cast on and place live stitches on a 5mm circular needle. With right sides together, using Kid Silk Haze, work a 3 needle bind off to join the lining to the Wollmeise cast on edge.
Cutting the Steek:
Using a sewing machine, run a line of straight stitches down the central steek stitch. I sewed two more lines of machine stitches, one either side of the first row - just for extra security. Now... cut that steek down the centre line! You can work a crochet steek if preferred. I didn't because; 1. I thought a machined steek would be stronger for such a heavy piece 2. I was getting impatient! Steek size: I knit a 10 stitch steek which is large. I had never steeked Wollmeise Lammdochtwolle before and wanted a little extra security, particularly as this is quite a heavy garment. I still wouldn't be confident with a very narrow steek for this, your mileage may vary! Finishing: Turn stole so wrong sides are together and mattress stitch sides edges together.
Applied I-Cord Edging:
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Use 5mm DPNs and Wollmeise Red Hot Chilli work a 4 stitch applied i-cord edging. You do not need to pick up all the stitches at once, but can pick them up as you go. Pick up stitches at a rate of 1:1 on the long edges; pick up 5 stitches for every six rows (as counted in the lining) for the short edges. I needed to add two more stitches on each of the shorter edges - you may need to fudge a bit. You can pick up the stitches in any way you like, but I used a grafted cast on for the long edges. I don't even know if this is a "real" technique [couldn't find it in any books], but it matches up the stitches nicely on the front of the stole, and is invisible on the back. It's essentially a grafted cast off in reverse. Hard to explain, but it looks like this;
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You loop the yarn over the needle, stitch through each of the two strands of a stitch, repeat to the end.
Applied I Cord (continued...)
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Starting at the first of your picked up stitches, cast on four stitches (any method will do). Knit the first 3 stitches of the four you have just cast on, and then join the last cast on stitch to the first picked up stitch with an ssk. (You can use K2tog if you prefer, but sk hides any colour change blips) Now push the 4 stitches to the right end of the DPN and repeat the process. After a few rows, this will roll over to form a cord. Repeat.
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GAUDI When you reach the corners work 2 rows of i-cord without attaching them to the edge stitches of the stole. This will not leave a gap, but will allow the i-cord to stretch around the corner without distorting. At the final corner, work 2 rows unattached i-cord, cast off 4 and stitch the ends together.
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Adapting Gaudi:
This could be easily adapted to make a scarf. Just stop knitting when your scarf is the right width. If you want a longer scarf, just cast on 30 more stitches for every extra $6^{\prime\prime}$ of scarf you need. FYl: I used one complete test skein of Wollmeise worsted to make my swatch $(6^{\prime\prime}\times4.25^{\prime\prime})$
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Back of slip stitch pattern & lining before 3 needle bind off
Suggested Alternative Yarns: I've tried:
Lambs Pride Worsted (plain & multis) Malabrigo (plain & multis) Cherry Tree Hill Worsted (Lambs Pride base) Noro Silk Garden or Noro Kureyon Elann Peruvian Donegal (tweedy) Lopi Lett
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There are loads of indies on Etsy who handspin / dye yarns which would work well as a substitute. FeltStudioUK, Hobbledehoy, Lilcoley, Poppy Flowers, SeeJayneKnits come to mind, but there are many more. I've used this slip stitch pattern with different weights of yarn too - it works wonderfully with any variegated / plain yarn combo, not just worsted weights! Be adventurous! This is a stash buster project.