Shawl Crescent Sari Silk
I love this shawl. I mean LOVE IT. Designed specifically for sari silk yarn, it is based on Elizabeth Zimmerman's Pi Shawl. Sari Silk yarn is a handspun yarn produced in Nepal by a fair trade collective of women. The yarn in the skein feel a bit coarse, but knit up and properly blocked it will yield a drapey soft fabric. Level: Advanced Beginne!
You Will Need
Approx. 13.5 oz of Helping a Sister Out Wash Day or Sari Fine yarn. A #13 29" or larger circular needle T-pins for blocking Blocking surface Hand held steamer or steam iron
Gauge
At least 2.5 stitches/inch Gauge is not critical with this shawl, but you do want the fabric to be drapey. Adjust needle accordingly.
Notes
I have seen a lot of mixed reviews about sari silk yarn. And true it is fussy, unpredictable, as well as delicate and hard at the same time. There are always knots, breaks and maybe even vegetable matter. No two skeins are alike and chances are you are never really sure of the yardage you actually have. I have given the yarn quantity in weight because of this. This yarn is deceptively bulky. You may be tempted to use a smaller needle that you should. It is best knit with a bigger needle to give your fabric drape and the stitched room to showcase the texture of the yarn. Think of how you knit mohair, you want the hairy texture to show between the stitches. Normally I am a stickler for weaving in ends, but in this case I think this yarn works better when knotted. Trust me I never would say it for any other yarn. Just go with it. It is a rustic yarn and the dangling ends will be fine with your finished fabric and probably hold better than trying to weave them in. Finally the big key to this yarn...serious steam blocking. I was floored how the fabric transformed from a stiff, ropey texture, to silky soft and drapey with steam. Take the time to steam it ...absolutely necessary and Soooo worth it.
The Shawl Body
Cast on 2 stitches. Knit 10 rows. Pick up 5 stitches along the side of the rows at the ridges, and 2 st at the cast on edge (9st total on the needles) Row 1(Set Up Row): k all stitches Row 2: k2, (yo,k1) 5 times, k2 (14sts) Row 3(One Row): K all stitches Row 4 (increase Row): k2 (yo, k1) to the last 2 stitches, k2 Rows 5 & 6 (Two Rows): K all stitches Row 7 (Increase Row): k2 (yo, k1) to the last 2 stitches, k2 Rows 8-11(4 rows): K all stitches Row 12(ncrease Row): k2 (yo, k1) to the last 2 stitches, k2 Continue working in pattern as follows: Doubling the number of knit rows in between increase rows. So row 13 begins 8 knit rows, work an increase row on row 20, row 21 begins 16 increase rows, etc. Work until you run out of yarn making sure to leave enough to bind off with, knotting all new joins as well as the final BO stitch leaving a 2 inch tail.
Steam Blocking
Steam blocking is essential to getting a soft drapey shawl. Heat up your hand held steamer or steam iron (if using an iron, make sure you have the setting on the maximum amount of steam possible, and the water reservoir is full). Securely pin the top center 3 inches of the shawl with at least 5 T-pins to your blocking surface. Starting from the left bottom corner of the shawl, stretch the shawl and thoroughly steam from the T-pins to the edge, working slowly to ensure each stitch is worked with blasts of steam.Do not be afraid to block vigorously and stretch you shawl into shape. Continue to steam block from T-pins to the bottom edge working stitch by stitch towards the right side of the shawl as if you were opening a fan.
UrbanGypz artisan yarn
www.urbangypz.com All text and images Stacey Budge-Kamison. This pattern may not be reproduced for resale.
