PORTsmoU
4 skstnghat
When my mother moved from Roswell, New Mexico to Portsmouth, New Hampshire in 1957, before her junior year in high school, she found that everything was different from her earlier school years -- the clothes, her fellow students, their New England accent, etc. One of the girls clothing items she noticed right away was a knitted headband, called a "Skating Hat,” that covered the ears and tied under the chin. Not one for hats, she immediately purchased one and wore it frequently the last two years of high school. Recently I was down in her basement and saw her original headband sitting on top of a stack of books. Since one of the ties was broken making it unwearable, she asked if I could figure out the pattern and knit her another one -- which of course I did.
Notes:
This pattern has two variations, super bulky and bulky. It could easily be adapted for any weight yarn by continuing the increase section until the headband is the desired width. It is important to note that this pattern tends to curl when you are knitting it. Once the piece is blocked, however, it lays much more flat. Abbreviations: K: Knit D D. K1b: Knit into stitch below (insert right hand needle into the center of the stitch one row below next stitch on left hand needle, knit this stitch slipping the stitch above off the needle at the same time Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the same stitch Kfbf: Knit into the front, back, and front of the same stitch K2tog: Knit 2 together SSK: Slip, slip, knit SL1: Slip 1 knit-wise
POR-TSmOU # super bulky version
With smaller needles, cast on 3 stitches and knit I-cord for 14 inches Switch to larger needles
Increases:
Row 1 (RS): K3 (3 stitches) Row 2 (and all even numbered rows) (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Row 3 (RS): Kfb, K1b, Kfb (5 stitches) Row 5 (RS): Kfb, K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb (7 stitches) Row 7 (RS): Kfb, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb (9 stitches) Row 9 (RS): Kfb, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb (11 stitches) Row 10 (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Straight Section: Row 1 (RS): $\ast\mathsf{K}\intercal$ $\mathsf{K}\mathsf{1}\,\mathsf{b}^{\ast}$ repeat to 1 stitch before last stitch, K1 Row 2 (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Row 3 (RS): K1, $^{*}\mathsf{K}\rceil$ , K1b\* repeat to 2 stitches before last stitch, K2 Row 4 (WS): repeat row 2 repeat rows 1 through 4 until piece measures about 13-14 inches from start of straight section, ending after row 2.
Yarn:
1 skein Spud &Chloe Outer $65\%$ superwash wool and $35\%$ organic cotton; 60 yds / $^{55}\,\mathfrak{m}$ per $3.53\mathrm{~}\mathrm{\circ}\mathrm{z}$ $100\ {\mathfrak{g}}1$ , color 7200, soapstone
10 stitches $=4^{\ast}\ /\ 10\ c m$ in main pattern stitch (straight section of pattern)
Needles:
US $10\%/6.5\ \mathrm{mm}$ double point US $1\ 1\ /\ 8.0\ \mathrm{mm}$ straight Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions: Tapestry needle Finished Size: Approx. 4 $1\,/2"$ wide $\times\,77^{\circ}$ long (not including i-cord ties)
Row 1 (RS): K2tog, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, K2tog (9 stitches)
Row 2 (and all even numbered rows) (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Row 3 (RS): K2tog, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, K2tog (7 stitches) Row 5 (RS): K2tog, K1b, K1, K1b, K2tog (5 stitches) Row 7 (RS): K2tog, K1b, K2tog (3 stitches) Row 9 (RS): K3 Switch to smaller needles and continue in I-cord for 14 inches Bind off and weave in ends Wet block to finished dimensions to reduce curling as much as possible. Embellish as desired or leave plain for a more traditional look.
POR-TSMOU H bulky vers ion
1 skein Malabrigo Yarn Chunky $100\%$ merino wool; 104 yds / $95~\mathsf{m}$ per $3.53\circ z/\textsf{l}00\textsf{g})$ , color 37, lettuce; (one skein should make 2 skating hats]
Gauge: 10 stitches $=4"/10\mathsf{\,c m}$ in main pattern stitch (straight section of pattern)
Needles:
US $10/6\;\mathrm{mm}$ double point US 11 / 8.0 mm straight Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions: Tapestry needle With smaller needles, cast on 3 stitches and knit I-cord for 14 inches Switch to larger needles Increases: Row 1 (RS): K3 (3 stitches) Row 2 (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Row 3 (RS): K1, Kfbf, K1 (5 stitches) Row 4 (and alleven numbered rows) (WS): SL1, K1, P to last two stitches, K2 Row 5 (RS): SL1, Kfb, K1b, Kfb, K1 (7 stitches) Row 7 (RS): SL1, Kfb, K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb, K1 (9 stitches) Row 9 (RS): SL1, Kfb, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb, K1 (11 stitches) Row 11 (RS): SL1, Kfb, K1b, K1,K1b, K1,K1b, K1, K1b, Kfb, K1 (13 stitches) Row 12 (WS): SL1, K1, P to last 2 stitches, K2 Finished Size: Approx. 4 $1\,/2"$ wide $\times\,77^{\circ}$ long (not including i-cord ties) Straight Section: Row 1 (RS): SL1, $^{*}\mathsf{K}\tau$ , K1b\* repeat to 2 stitches before last stitch, K2 Row 2 (WS): SL1, K1, P to last two stitches, K2 Row 3 (RS): SL1, K1, $\ast\mathsf{K}\rceil$ , K1b\* repeat to 3 stitches before last stitch, K3 Row 4 (WS): repeat row 2 repeat rows 1 through 4 until piece measures about 13-14 inches from start of straight section, ending after row 2. Decreases Row 1 (RS): SL1,K2tog,K1b,K1,K1b,K1,K1b,K1,K1b,SSK,K1 (11 stitches) Row 2 (and all even numbered rows) (WS): SL1, K1, P to last 2 stitches, K2 Row 3 (RS): SL1, K2tog, K1b, K1, K1b, K1, K1b, SSK, K1 (9 stitches) Row 5 (RS): SL1, K2tog, K1b, K1, K1b, SSK, K1 (7 stitches) Row 7 (RS): SL1, K2tog, K1b, SSK, K1 (5 stitches) Row 9 (RS): K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 stitches) Row 10 (WS): K1, P to last stitch, K1 Row 11 (RS): K3 Switch to smaller needles and continue in I-cord for 14 inches Bind off and weave in ends Wet block to finished dimensions to reduce curling as much as possible. Embellish as desired or leave plain for a more traditional look.
