Do you have few balls of yarn for which you have not found a pattern? You may not have enough yarn or the yarn weight is not right for the pattern you had in mind. The Alina shawl is just for that yarn. You can knit the shawl of any yarn and use up the exact amount of yarn you have. The pattern is written for fingering weight yarn $\left(100\,\mathrm{g}\,/\,420\,\mathrm{m}\right)$ but it is easily adjustable for any yarn weight. Three balls of Kidsilk Haze are enough for a shawl with a $180/190$ stitches wide garter stitch triangle. On the next pages you will see examples of different Alina shawls knitted from different yarns. Above is the clou - any yarn will do and the size depends on your choices. You can knit a light-weight shawl using a dreamy silk-mohair blend or a thick shawl using rustic handspun yarn. I needed a little help from my friends for publishing this pattern. Marjut translated the pattern into English, Katarina created the lay-out and Tuulia helped me in creating a PayPal account. Without them this pattern would not have been published. Our common decision is to support Finnish breast cancer research. For every pattern sold in October 2010, 2 euros will be donated to the Finnish Pink Ribbon campaign. I was diagnosed with breast cancer on September 24th 2010. This pattern is published on October 6th, 2010, the same day I have my surgery.
Yarn: Wollfrauen Rheuma, superwash merino, $140\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\:\mathrm{mm}/80\:\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ height $80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: BBB Filati Soft Dream, mohair-silk, 75 g Needles: 4,5 mm / $^{\prime}80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $190\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $90\;\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Novita Maya, wool-alpaca, $230\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $5\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $90\;\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Hand dyed yarn, $100\%$ merino, $100\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $70\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Hand dyed yarn, $100\%$ merino, $100\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\:\mathrm{mm}/80\:\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ , height $70\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Hjertegarn Kunstgarn, wool-nylon, 200 g Needles: $4\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $90\;\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Permin Angel Mohair, mohair-silk, $75\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $4,5\:\mathrm{mm}/80\:\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $180\,\mathrm{cm}$ height $90\;\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 10 sts
Yarn: Hedgehog Fibres, $100\,\%$ cashmere, $100\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $170\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $77\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 54 sts
Yarn: Alvita Silkid, mohair-silk, $75\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $4,5\:\mathrm{mm}/80\:\mathrm{cm}$ Size:max.width $180\,\mathrm{cm}$ height $75\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches:54 sts
Yarn: Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra, mohair-nylon, 50 g Needles: $4\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $160\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $62\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 90 sts
Yarn: Posh Yarn, merino-sillk, $100\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\:\mathrm{mm}/80\:\mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $145\;\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $55\;\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 90 sts
Yarn: Wollmeise Lace, $100\,\%$ wool, $140\,\mathrm{g}$ Needles: $3,5\,\mathrm{mm}/80\,\ \mathrm{cm}$ Size: max. width $150\,\mathrm{cm}$ ,height $50\,\mathrm{cm}$ Number of cast-on stitches: 90 sts
Alina
The pattern is easily adjustable for any yarn weight. When estimating the yardage, the rule of thumb is that the garter stitch triangle uses up half of the yarn and the lace edging the rest. You can change the shape of the shawl by casting on a different number of stitches: cast on 10 sts for a basic triangular shawl, 54 sts for a crescent-shaped shawl and 90 sts for a trapezoid-shaped shawl. You can repeat the Musla lace pattern 3-5-7-9 times (12-20-28-36 rows) depending on your own preferences and the amount of yarn available. Note that binding off and finishing with backwards crochet take up a considerable amount of yarn. The fnished fabric neds tobe light and airy, soif youknit tight, goup $0{,}5\;\mathrm{mm}$ in needle size. Slip the edge stitch thus forming an edge that looks ike “a line of pearls" That makes picking up stitches for the lace edging easier. Knit the lace edging according to the Musla lace pattern.
Abbreviations
·$\mathrm{k=knit}$ ${\mathrm{\Deltap}}={\mathrm{{purl}}}$ ·$\mathrm{k}2\,\mathrm{tog}=\mathrm{kn}$ it two stitches together · yo $=$ yarnover ·$\mathbf{m}1=$ pick up the horizontal strand between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch thus forming a new stitch and knit into the back of that stitch
Garter stitch triangle
Start with a provisional cast-on. Crochet a chain with waste yarn and pick up 10 stitches from the chain with the shawl yarn. Knit 2 rows. Start the increases on the third row: slip the edge stitch, k1, $\mathrm{m}1$ , knit to the end of row. Work the increases on every row. Continue until you have used up half of the yarn. Depending on your tension, you now have an approximately 220-230 stitches wide garter stitch triangle. Continue with the rest of the yarn and knit 12 rows without increasing. Leave the stitches on holder/waste yarn. Pick up the stitches for the lace edging as follows: start from the corner and pick up and knit a stitch from each “pearl" When you reach the tip of the triangle, remove and pick up the cast-on edge stitches from the holder/waste yarn (note that you will have only 9 sts) and continue by picking up and knitting the stitches from the other side of the shawl. Knit one row. On the next row, increase as follows: k2 $,^{*}\mathbf{m}1,\mathbf{k}2^{*}.$ , repeat \*\* to the end of the row. Knit one row. Count the stitches and increase on the next row as follows: k4 $,^{*}\mathrm{m}1,\mathrm{k}3^{*}$ ,repeat \*_\* to the end of the row. Check that you have 424 sts after the increases. If the number of stitches is not correct, add the missing stitches on the next round, or, if you have too many stitches you can knit 6, 7 or 8 stitches at the beginning and end of each row instead of 5 sts stated in the pattern. The lace edging has twenty-three 18 sts wide motif repeats $=414$ sts. Knit the first and last five stitches on each row: $\textsf{S s t s}+414\,\mathsf{s t s}+5$ sts $=424$ sts. For a crescent-shaped shawl, cast on 54 sts and increase as instructed. Note that for the lace edging you pick up and knit 53 sts from the waste yarn. For a trapezoid-shaped shawl, cast on 90 sts and increase as instructed. Note that for the lace edging you pick up and knit 89 sts from the waste yarn. Before starting the lace edging, increase as instructed. Note that the number of stitches (approximately 2 times the number of the stitches you picked up $^+$ the stitches you cast on) needs to equal an odd number of Musla lace pattern repeats - 19, 21 or 23 motifs based on the yarn weight and your hand, that is, 5 edge sts $^+$ (19/21/23 repeats x 18 sts) $+\,\mathfrak{s}$ edge sts.
Musla lace edging
1. row: Knit. 2. row: Purl. 3.row: $3\mathrm{x}\left(\mathrm{k}2\:\mathrm{tog}\right),\mathrm{^*6\mathrm{x}\left(\mathrm{k}1,\mathrm{yo}\right),6\mathrm{x}\left(\mathrm{k}2\:\mathrm{tog}\right)^{*}}_{\mathrm{^*}}$ repeat $^{*}-^{*}\,22$ times, 6x (k1, yo), 3x (k2 tog) 4. row: Knit. Start and end each row with k5. (K5, repeat the Musla pattern until there are 5 sts left, k5.) Repeat the Musla lace pattern 7 times (28 rows). Knit five rows. Bind off by crocheting one row and finish by crocheting one row backwards. Sew in the yarn ends and block or steam the scarf.
Musla lace edging chart
repeat
