Dreaming at Delphi
Dreaming at Delphi is part of the Aegean series. This series was inspired by vacations in Greece. The pieces are intended to evoke the calm, sparkling waters, sandy beaches, and relaxing atmosphere of the Greek islands in the summertime (l know, Delphi is on the mainland, but there was an Oracle there!). I designed this series to be knit in cooler fabrics such as silk blends and cotton blends. You might need something light and airy to ward off a chill, but overall, the temperature is warm and pleasant. The Delphi piece is a smaller, scarf size. The model was knitted from one skein of Lichtfaden Pure Silk Lace. Any laceweight silk would be lovely, and there is no reason you couldn't use a heavier weight yarn such as fingering. Just make sure you have enough yardage. Because Delphi is knitted sideways, you can use yarn weight to determine when to stop increasing and when to begin decreasing. To do this, weigh your yarn before beginning to get the starting weight. While kniting the increase chart (or instructions), weigh your yarn regularly. When you've used 30% of the yarn, switch to the interim chart. When you've used another 20-25%, switch to the decrease chart. Note: This pattern uses twisted stitches and "bind off" in the edging chart. Make sure you read the instructions in the stitch glossary to ensure you understand how to work the stitches. Yarn: Lichtfaden Pure Silk Lace, 467 yards You can use any yarn you like. A laceweight yarn makes a light and airy piece, a heavier weight will make a more robust piece. Though this was designed as a summery accessory, there is no reason it wouldn't make a lovely neck-warming scarf in a heavier weight yarn. Needle size: US4, 3.5mm I use circular needles because I prefer them, but a 10" straight needle should work just fine for this piece. Adjust needle size for yarn weight if you use a heavier yarn than laceweight. Remember that you'll need more yardage as well. Gauge: Gauge for model is 6 stitches per inch, 7 rows per inch. Gauge is not overly important for this piece.
To Begin:
Cast on 28 stitches and begin the Increase chart. Repeat rows 19-30 until you have used approximately 30% of the yarn ball.
Increase Chart:
| Knit | |
| O | YO |
| 2 | KFB; I use the KFB as the increase in the increase chart. If you prefer M1L, you should use that. |
| Konwrongside | |
| 1 | P2tog on both WS and RS; When going from a knit stitch to a p2tog, you must first bring the yarn forward, thenwrapit.ItfeelslikeadoubleYO. |
| SLO: On this row, you will knit until you have 11 stitches remaining on the left needle. Pull the second stitch on the left needle over the first, then the next one, and so on until two stitches remain, the first one with 9 stitches pulled over it, and the last one. Then YO, purl two together. | |
| Twisted Left Stitch: Insert needle into back of second stitch on the left needle, make stitch, then insert into the front of the first stitch on the left needle wrapyarn, pull both stitches off the left needle. | |
| Twisted Right Stitch: Insert needle into the front of the second stitch on the left needle,make stitch, then insert into the front of the first stitch on the left needle, make stitch, pull both stitches from the left needle. | |
| Nostitch |
Interim Chart:
Repeat the stitches between the red lines as many times as they occur depending on the number of increases you made. Repeat the chart until you have approximately 30% of your yarn left.
Decrease Chart:
Begin decreasing by K2tog on the right side rows right before the leaf edging. When you've decreased down to the final center stitch, knit two rows of garter (one right side and one wrong side), then bind off loosely. I bind of by doing: K1, K1, slip left needle into the front of both stitches on the right needle and knit together; knit the next stitch, slip left needle into the front of both stitches and knit together. Repeat until one stitch remains and tie off.
