Knit a Customizable Walker Hold-All: A Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial for Knitters to Create Useful and Stylish Accessories for Veterans and Seniors

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Free Your Hands ... and Keep Your Balance Is your knitting group or local guild looking for a meaningful way to honor and recognize veterans for their service and to support them as they deal with mobility issues, first as patients in Veterans Administration (VA) and military hospitals and then as they reintegrate back into day-to-day life? Would you like to do something positive in your community to celebrate the dignity and independence of seniors by fostering their continued health and active presence, as they walk among us every day? Then consider knitting (and giving to a veteran and/or a senior) a hold-allfor their walker . Not only will you be providing that person with something truly useful in dailyliving, but you may even learn a new knitting skill or two that you can then pass on to others. This photo tutorial shows you exactly how to proceed, step by step, with detailed illustrations from start to finish ... and extra clarification of design principles at key choice points along the way.

Description

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This easy-to-knit, fully customizable saddlebag-style walker pack is a double-sided hold-all with six (or fewer) pockets. It conveniently hangs over the front crossbar for easy attachment and has adjustable ties for secure fit. (The option of added stability via supplementary Velcro attachment on back is also offered.) More useful than a single-pocket tote bag, especially if that single pocket is covered by a top flap that may be difficult to lift while at the same time keeping a firm hold on one's walker, this hold-all's multiple deep open-top pockets allow quicker access to various items organized within to be easier to find. The number of pockets -- and the size of each pocket -- may be adjusted to meet individual preference as desired. Items that walker users may wish to carry include (but are not limited to) cell phones [great in an emergency!], tablet computers (iPads), e-readers (Kindles/nooks), tissues/handkerchiefs, wallets, IDs/other cards, reading glasses or sunglasses, books, magazines, folded newspapers, house or car keys, crafting supplies [perhaps yarn and needles or hook!], medicine bottles or inhalers, single-serve snacks or beverages, hand lotion or sunscreen, hand sanitizer, personal music players with ear buds, hearing aids and/or batteries, denture cases, pen/pencil and paper, flashlight, TV or DvR remote, and extremely small pets. (Just kidding about the pets!)

Function

Proper choice of yarn and stitch pattern (both of which are addressed in detail elsewhere) ensure that this walker hold-all is easy to clean and has a long life of useful service because of its durability. The "saddlebag-style" designation applied to the hold-all comes from the fact that the entire width of the backing is resting across the front crossbar of the walker. The backing thus bears the distributed weight of the contents of the pockets. Since the ties are placed at the sides below, they do not directly bear such weight and are thus less stressed (than if they were atop the hold-all instead).

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Free Your Hands ... and Keep Your Balance Of course, the user of this hold-all should never over-fill it (either in terms of weight or volume), just as with any other add-on walker accessory. If a walker is too heavily laden, then it not only requires more physical energy to use, but there is also the danger of making the walker so front-weighted that it could tip over. Note: If the walker hold-all is attached to a collapsible (folding) walker, then the hold-all should be removed prior to collapsing/folding the walker. Braiding (plaiting) three individual strands of yarn into a single cord, as well as adding double knots at the end of the generous 13" length per side, provides good tactile feedback when grasping and tying the cords together, whatever the desired configuration -- and whatever the amount of finger flexibility and/or cord visibility. Final/General Note: Although neither designed nor tested for the purpose, another suggested use for this hold-all (from early knitters of this pattern) is as a stroller "helping hand" caddy in place of a diaper bag on brief morning/afternoon walks.

Materials

Yarn of knitter's choice, in color(s) of knitter's choice, Category 4 (Medium [Worsted/Afghan/Aran]) weight, 490-515 yds (approx total or when working in single color) or: Color A (backing; as shown here, Slate) = about 285-295 yds Color B (pockets; here, Brick) = about 140-150 yds Color C (ties/seams; here, Variegated) = about 65-70 yds

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Note: The piece photographed throughout was knit in Longview cotton yarn, unfortunately no longer in wide distribution. Specific criteria for suitable yarn and a list of currently-available recommended yarns are presented in a separate APPENDIX at the end of this photo tutorial. US Size 8 (or size necessary for attaining desired gauge) circular\* needle, used as straight (to hold large number of stitches) \*[recommended minimum length: 29"] Large-eyed yarn needle (for both assembly and finishing) (Optional) Velcro (for as-desired backing reverse-side attachment; see schematic) ① gkgreen

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Gauge

About 4.3 rows per inch in Seed Stitch (unblocked); 4.4 sts per inch.

Size

Approximate dimensions of finished piece as shown: 15" wide by 28" long [laid flat for measurement; not including ties]

Directions

Seed Stitch (even # of sts) Row 1: \*K1, P1; rep from \*. Row 2: \*P1, K1; rep from \*. @ gkgreen Why choose this stitch pattern? Seed Stitch creates a strong, stable textured fabric that holds up to frequent use. It is also dense and reversible (appearing the same from both sides). Seed Stitch lies flat and does not rollinward because it is made up of single knit stitches and purl stitches that alternate both horizontally (row-wise) and vertically (column-wise). No blocking is required for this design. What am I (the knitter) really doing, anyway? To work in seed stitch, simply knit the purl stitches of the previous row, and purl the knit stitches of the previous row.

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Backing

Using cable cast-on and Color A (Slate), cast on 124 sts (or even # of sts req for 28" or your desired length, as the orientation of your knitting is sideways for this piece) with US Size 8 needle (or size necessary for attaining desired gauge). (Do not join in the round; work back and forth in rows.) Why choose this particular cast-on method? Cable cast on does not require a long tail, provides a strong/sturdy but flexible edge, and has a nice appearance on both sides (is reversible). Although you may substitute another cast on method if you wish, take care to ensure that the resulting edge is not too stretchy and does not have a "wrong" side. Work in Seed Stitch for 64 rows (or # of rows req for 15" or your desired width, as [again] the orientation of your knitting is sideways for this piece). BO std (kwise) all sts. Why choose this particular bind-off method? Binding off knit-wise is fairly standard (and what most beginning knitters learn first). It produces a nicely reversible and flexible yet strong/sturdy edge that goes well with the cable cast on. Substituting another bind off method is not recommended. Jsing yarn ndl, weave in any loose yarn ends. (Do not block piece.)

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Pockets

n completed backing piece [so that shorter side of rectangle faces you \*\* Using Color B (Brick) [or continuing with the same color i making a single-color hold-all and continuing with same size knitting needle, pick up 66 sts (or even # of sts req for 15" or your desired width, as you are now knitting vertically in terms of orientation for these pieces). Knit one (1) row. Work in Seed Stitch for 30 rows (or # of rows req for 7" or your desired length/height of pocket[s]) BO (kwise) all sts. Using yarn ndl, weave in any loose yarn ends.\*\*\* ① gkgreen Turn work [so that remaining/other shorter side of rectangle faces you]. Repeat from \*\*\* to \*\*\*. (Again, do not block newly added end-pieces.) What am I (the knitter) really doing, anyway? The fabric used for the pockets is created by rotating the backing ninety degrees, picking up stitches along the rectangle's shorter edges (separately), and knitting. This is structurally important to the stability of the shape of the finished piece, which would be quite different indeed without this join and change of kniting direction!

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When picking up stitches, use another strand of yarn instead of just picking up the edge of the backing piece. (lf you just pick up the edge, then stretching and distortion of the edge will occur.) So, take your knitting needle and pick up stitches through the backing piece's edge stitches, about one stitch per row of knitting, by putting the needle tip under the stitch (one or both sides, your choice, but be consistent, please), then wrapping the strand of yarn around the needle tip, and pulling that yarn back through and onto your needle. Keep on doing that until you have all the stitches you need to pick up. What if I (the knitter) really don't want to do that? IPossible translation: Initially, I was sO perplexed by the difference (if any) between the phrasgs "pick up and knit" vs. "pick up stitches and knit" that for quite a long time the mere thought of either was extremely off-putting. Then, once that was overcome, 1 grew concerned that the practice was likely to lead to a sprained wrist if I persevered.]

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Hmm, is picking up (stitches) not your favorite thing to do, especially since you're working with densely knit fabric? You could try using a crochet hook in place of the needle tip to get the yarn through and onto your needle, but it only works if you do it one stitch at a time and take care not to twist the stitch when you put it on the needle. OK, maybe that might help, but what else have you got? Another thing you can try is a smaller stiletto-pointed needle, just for the picking up of stitches. (Don't make me come to you for an in-person demonstration; the plane-fare cost alone could seriously eat into your yarn-buying budget. Besides, I know that you can do this!)

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Seaming

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Making a pocket simply requires stitching a vertical seam very finely (closely, with small stitches) through both of the thicknesses of the knitted fabric. Take care to reinforce the top of the seam securely.

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Using yarn needle and Color C (Variegated) [or continuing with the same color if making a single-color hold-all], sew vertical seams and weave horizontal mock seams as shown in photo tutorial.

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Ties Using yarn needle and Color C (Variegated) [or continuing with the same color if making a single-color hold-all], braid each of four (4) sets of three (3) strands of yarn into plaited cord and double-knot the end of each, again as shown in photo tutorial.

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dd Velcro to reverse of backing piece as shown in schematic if desirer

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Fold, roll, and use ties to fasten finished walker hold-all into attractive gift for presentation ..

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OR .. Install hold-all on walker and begin to use and enjoy!. gkgreen

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Options ...

This design works with any even number of CO sts (providing they can be held on a needle) and any number of rows. Thus, its overall dimensions can be scaled up or down for any walker manufactured now or infuture. The number and size of pockets is constrained only by the overall dimensions of the hold-all. Its user can determine the most useful configuration based on items to be carried. Further, as can be best seen in photos, generous length of ties permits a variety of attachment options. For example, the hold-all may be tied onto the lower of the two front horizontal walker bars that may be present (instead of the upper). This also permits the transfer of the hold-all from one type of walker to another, should the walker user change walkers. This hold-all may be made with just one color of yarn or, as shown, with three complementary yarns. Here, two solid but contrasting colors of yarn are used for the backing and the pockets, respectively, and a variegated third yarn is used for seaming and braided ties. Yarn choice is great, even within restrictions imposed by considerations of suitability for purpose; it should be possible to find colors and/or textures to accommodate any taste. If further alteration of appearance is desired, other stitch patterns may be substituted for Seed Stitch by the more experienced knitter. Such replacements must be dense, strong, reversible, and non-curling without blocking. One to consider is Linen Stitch (and its many variants); another is the Heringbone Stitch family (from which my purely personal preference is Transverse [over the looks of Horizontal typesl).

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Attachment to Upper\* Front Horizontal Bar of Walker \*or Sole/Only

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FRONTVIEW

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TIEDETAIL--SIDEVIEW

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POCKETDETAIL--TOPVIEW

BACK VIEW

Free Your Hands ... and Keep Your Balance

(Optional) Attachment to Lower of Two Front Horizontal Walker Bars

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FRONTVIEW

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TIEDETAIL--FRONTVIEW

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BACK VIEW

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TIEDETAIL--TOPVIEW

Hold-All Prior toAttachment toWalker

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APPENDIX Suggested Yarns

The yarns recommended for this project meet the following criteria: CYC [Craft Yarn Council] designation of Yarn Weight Category 4 (Medium), also described as "worsted," "afghan," or "aran" weight and characterized by label gauge ranging from 4-5 stitches per inch and manufacturer designated needle size ranging from Us 7 to 9 (or 4.5 to 5.5 mm). chine washable and dryable without significant change in size, shape, or colc Readily available in most areas in standardized and current production. Hypoallergenic (that is, relatively unlikely to cause an allergic textile reaction) under conditions of anticipated normal use. e to be knit into strong, stable, dense fabric that will be durable and attractive This is not meant to be an all-inclusive list, but rather a starting point for exploring possibilities. No ranking is implied by order within the list.

Red Heart

Soft Solids/Heathers/Prints (100% acrylic) Super Saver Solids/Multis/Ombres/Prints/Heathers (100% acrylic) Super Saver Fleck (96% acrylic/4% other) Fiesta (73% acrylic/27% nylon) Classic Solid/Multi (100% acrylic) Comfort Solids/Multicolors/Prints (100% acrylic) Kids Solid/Multi (100% acrylic) Caron Simply Soft Solids/Paints/Heather/Ombre (100% acrylic) Simply Soft Party (99% acrylic/1% polyester) United (100% acrylic)

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Lily Sugar'n Cream Solids/Denim/Ombres/Twists/Naturals (100% cotton) Elite Cotton (100% cotton) Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (50% cotton/50% acrylic) Recycled Cotton (72% cotton/24% acrylic/2% other) (continued)

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Free Your Hands ... and Keep Your Balance APPENDIX Suggested Yarns Continued

Bernat

Handicrafter Cotton Solids/Stripes/Twists (100% cotton) Super Value Solids/Ombres [New] (100% acrylic) Worsted Ombre (100% acrylic) Satin Solids/Ombres (100% acrylic) Rowan All Seasons Cotton (60% cotton/40% acrylic) Softknit Cotton (92% cotton/8% nylon)

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Berroco Comfort Solids & Heathers (50% nylon/50% acrylic) Weekend (75% acrylic/25% cotton) Captiva (60% cotton/23% polyester/17% acrylic) Modern Cotton (60% cotton/40% rayon) Lago (81% rayon/19% linen) Plymouth Yarn Covington (100% cotton) Whitney (91% cotton/9% nylon) Dreamland (70% acrylic/30% nylon) Cottonation (100% cotton) Dandelion (80% acrylic/20% cotton)

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