Invisible Thorns: Intermediate Two-Color Knitted Socks with Advanced Techniques

INVISIBLE THORNS

BY NATALIA VASILIEVA

SKILL LEVEL:INTERMEDIATE

TECHNIQUES USED: MAGIC LOOP, SLIPPED-STITCH KNITTING INTWO COLORS, ELASTIC CROCHETED CAST-ON, FLEEGLE HEEL,REVERSED FLEEGLE HEEL, SHADOW WRAPS, LIFTED INCREASES,GRAFTING, JENY'S SURPRISINGLY STRETCHY BIND-OFF.

TWO-COLOR SOCKS (BIGGER SIZE)

Finished measurements

Sock length: 87/%" (22.5 cm) to fit foot length 101/4" (26 cm). Sock circumference: 7/2" (19 cm) to fit foot circumference 9" (23 cm). Leg length (from the base of heel): 91/4" (23.5 cm).

Tools and Materials

· Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints (75% wool, 25% polyamide (nylon); 437 yds (400 m) per 100 g): 0.5 skein in #9692 (dahlia) for Color A · Zwerger Garn Opal Solids 4-ply (75% wool, 25% polyamide (nylon); 465 yds (425 m) per 100 g): 0.5 skein in #5194 (fuchsia) for Color B · Circular needles US 11/2 (2.5 mm) or size to get the gauge; at least 32" (80 cm) length · Crochet hook US 1%2 (2.5 mm) ·Blunt sewing needle (for grafting)

Gauge

Thorn stitch: 33 sts x 48 rows = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). 2-row stockinette stripes: 31 sts x 44 rows = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

TEXTURED VARIEGATED SOCKS (SMALLER SIZE)

Finished measurements

Sock length: 83/4" (21 cm) to fit foot length 93/4" (23.5 cm). Sock circumference: 7" (18 cm) to fit foot circumference 8/%" (21 cm). Leg length (from the base of heel): 10" (25.5 cm).

Tools and Materials

· Crystal Palace Yarns Panda Wool Print (46% bamboo, 43% wool, 11% polyamide (nylon); 170 yds (150 m) per 50 g): 2 skeins in #9575 (circus) · Circular needles US 1 (2.25 mm) or size to get the gauge; at least 32" (80 cm) length · Crochet hook US 1/B (2.25 mm) ·Blunt sewing needle (for grafting)

Gauge

Thorn stitch: 34 sts x 48 rows = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Stockinette: 32 sts x 44 rows = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

PATTERN NOTES

These socks are worked in Magic Loop technique with the beginning of the round (BOR) at inner side of leg. You may utilize any other technique of your choice preserving BOR position. Cuff-down sock starts with Elastic Crocheted cast-on followed by ribbed cuff. Reversed Fleegle heel begins as triangle heel flap formed with shadow-wrap short-rows, which are then picked up for heel turn and foot gussets worked simultaneously. Rounded variation of Standard toe is employed. Toe-up sock features Judy's Magic cast-on, regular Fleegle heel and Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy bind-offin purl - to mimic the look of its cuff-down counterpart. Since the stitch pattern repeat is only 4 stitches wide, the socks can be more or less easily adjusted for a wider or narrower feet. When splitting for the heel (in case of cuff-down socks), you may leave slightly smaller number of stitches for the instep and make a roomier heel with longer gussets if needed. It is also possible to continue work a triangular heel flap for cuff-down socks in pattern, but you'll need to cut Color A yarn after completing the heel in order to be able to proceed in the round as written; or you can move the beginning of the round to the middle of the sole and adjust the shaping instructions accordingly.

TWO-COLOR STITCH PATTERN NOTES

You'll be working with one yarn at a time for two consequent rounds (like in mosaic knitting). Patterning is created by slipped stitches of the color not in use. Some cleverly infused increases and decreases create illusion of long floats caught on RS - but there are none! It is recommended to use variegated yarn as Color A and solid-colored yarn as Color B. For nice blending, solid-colored yarn should match one of the variegated colors pretty close. If needed, alternate between outer and inner strands of variegated skein to minimize pooling. It's also possible to use the same variegated yarn as Color B to get nice textured socks. For the best effect this pattern should be worked at a relatively loose gauge so the socks weren't outstretched when worn.

DIRECTIONS

Instructions for bigger size are presented in [brackets].

Cuff-down Sock (Right)

Cuff

Using a crochet hook and solid-colored yarn (B), cast on 60 [64] sts with Elastic Crocheted method1 as follows (you may find a photo tutorial on this technique here: http:/www.ravelry.com/projects/skeincharmer/elastic-crocheted-cast-on): Make a slip knot and place it on a hook, (\*) yarnover, wrap a yarn around the needle and pull through both loops on the hook, repeat from (\*) x59 [x63] more times. Slip the last stitch from the hook onto the needle (= 61 [65] sts), join the work in the round being careful not to twist the stitches, slide the last stitch (which the working yarn is attached to) onto the other needle (= ML Needle 1) and pass it over the first casted-on stitch = 30 [32] sts on each needle. Work 20 rounds of 1x1 ribbing.

Leg

Introduce variegated yarn (A) and proceed to Leg Chart repeating it for x15 [x16] times around the leg. Work for desired length of the leg, switching colors every 2 rounds. Please note on Row 4 you'll need to transfer the 1st stitch of the

round onto cable (= ML Needle 2) in order to work this stitch as a part of the final right-leaning decrease at the end of this round again. Tip: If your variegated yarn tends to pool unattractively, you may use outer and inner strands of the same skein alternatively (or alternate between two skeins, if it's possible). For the sample pair in 2 colors, first round of Color A was worked with outer strand and second round of Color A with inner strand of the same skein, since Rows 2 and 6 of the charts consume more yarn than other rows, plus color sequences went in the opposite directions also helping to mitigate pooling. For the textured sample pair, outer strand was used for both rounds of Color A, and inner strand as Color B. End with Color A and Row 6 of Leg Chart. Sample sock has 78 [70] rounds in the leg.

Hee!

Rearrange stitches so 49 sts were on ML Needle 1 for heel, and 41 [47] sts for instep on ML Needle 2 (on cable on hold). Make sure the remaining instep stitches line up with Row 6 of Instep Chart! Using Color B only, make a triangular heel flap on ML Needle 1 as follows: Short-row 1 (RS): Work in pattern as established (Row Z of Leg Chart) to the last stitch; lift the right leg of the stitch one row below the remaining stitch on the left needle and knit it (= right-leaning lifted increase, RLinc), return the increased stitch back onto the left needle - this double stitch forms shadow wrap on Rs. Turn. Short-row 2 (WS): Work in pattern as established (Row 8 of Leg Chart from WS!) to the last stitch = double stitch+32+1 sts; lift the purl bump of the stitch one row below the stitch on the left needle and purl it (=right-leaning lifted increase in purl, RLinc purl), return the increased stitch back onto left needle - this double stitch forms shadow Wrap on WS. Turn. Note: The rest of the heel flap is worked in stockinette! Short-row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before previous shadow wrap, make shadow wrap On RS, turn. Short-row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before previous shadow wrap, make shadow wrap on WS, turn. Repeat last 2 short-rows for x12 times more, until 5 stitches left between the last shadow wraps, with 14 shadow wraps at each side, ending with WS short-row.

Gussets.

Resume working in the round, maintaining instep stitches in pattern as established: Next 2 rounds: Heel/sole (ML Needle 1): Using Color B, knit working shadow Wraps as 2 separate stitches (you'll be working RS shadow wraps on the first round, and WS shadow wraps on the second round). Instep (ML Needle 2): Work Rows 7-8 of Instep Chart. 61 sts on Heel/sole needle. Begin gusset decreases, switching colors every 2 rounds, as follows: Decrease round 1 (A): Heel/sole: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 = 2 sts decreased. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Next round (A): Heel/sole: Knit. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Decrease round 2 (B): Heel/sole: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 = 2 sts decreased. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Next round (B): Heel/sole: Knit. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Repeat these 4 rounds for x7 [x6] times more = 29 [33] sts on Heel/sole needle. Bigger size ONLY: Work Decrease round 1 and its accompanying plain round = 31 sts on Heel/sole needle.

Foot

Continue in patterns as established, switching colors every 2 rounds and working sole in stockinette and instep according to Instep Chart, till the desired length of foot minus 21/4" [21/2"] (6 [6.5] cm), ending with Color B and Row 4 or Row 8 of Instep Chart. Sample sock has 32 [42] rounds in the foot after gussets.

Toe

Drop Color A. Using Color B, knit 4 rounds. Smaller size ONLY: Move the last stitch from Heel/sole needle onto Instep needle = 28 sts on each needle. Decrease round: Sole and Instep: K1, ssk, knit to last 2 [3] sts on ML Needle, k2tog, [k1] = 4 sts decreased. {Knit 2 rounds, work Decrease round} for x3 times. {Knit 1 round, work Decrease round} for x4 times. Work Decrease round only for x4 [x6] times = 8 [6] sts. Cut the yarn leaving about 6-8" (15-20 cm) tail and graft the remaining stitches.

Toe-up Sock (Left)

Toe.

Using solid-colored yarn (B) and JMCO, cast on 4+4 [3+3] sts. Work 1 round. Increase round: (\*) k2; lift the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch just worked and knit it (= left-leaning lifted increase, LLinc); knit to last stitch; lift the right leg of the stitch below the stitch on the left needle and knit it (= rightleaning lifted increase, RLinc); k1; repeat from (\*) on the other needle = 4 sts increased. Repeat Increase round for x5 [x7] times. {Knit 1 round, work Increase round} for x4 times. {Knit 2 rounds, work Increase round} for x3 times = 28+28 [31+31] sts. Knit 3 more rounds.

Foot

Smaller size ONLY: Move the first stitch from Instep needle (ML Needle 2) onto Sole needle (ML Needle 1) = 29 sts on Sole needle, 27 sts on Instep needle. Note: If you make a bi-directional pair and your cuff-down sock has ended with Row 4 of Instep Chart, you need to begin on Row 1 for toe-up sock to maintain the similarity; and if your cuff-down sock has ended with Row 8 of Instep Chart, you need to begin on Row 5 for toe-up sock.

Introduce variegated yarn (A) and proceed as follows, switching colors every 2 rounds: Rounds 1-2 (A): Sole (ML Needle 1): Knit. Instep (ML Needle 2): Work next 2 rows of Instep Chart starting from Row 1 or Row 5. Please check Note about starting row on p.9! Rounds 3-4 (B): Sole: Knit. Instep: Work next 2 rows of Instep Chart. Repeat these 4 rounds till the desired length of foot minus 2/4" (7 cm), ending with Color B and Row 8 [Color A and Row 2] of Instep Chart. Sample sock has 32 [42] rounds in the sole after toe.

Gussets.

Begin gusset increases, switching colors every 2 rounds, as follows: Increase round 1 (B): Sole: K1, LLinc, knit to last stitch, RLinc, k1 = 2 sts increased. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Next round (B): Sole: Knit. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Increase round 2 (A): Sole: K1, LLinc, knit to last stitch, RLinc, k1 = 2 sts decreased. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Next round (A): Sole: Knit. Instep: Work next row of Instep Chart. Repeat these 4 rounds for x7 [x6] times more = 61 [59] sts on Heel/sole needle. Bigger size ONLY: Work Increase round 1 and its accompanying plain round = 61 sts on Heel/sole needle.

Heel

Short-row 1 (RS): Using Color B only, k32, k2tog, k1, turn. Short-row 2 (WS): Slip 1, p4, ssp, p1, turn. Short-row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, k2tog to close the gap, k1, turn. Short-row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, ssp to close the gap, p1, turn. Repeat last 2 short-rows for x12 times more, ending with WS row = 33 sts on Heel/soleneedle.

Leg

Resume working in the round and begin patterning for the leg throughout, starting from Row 1 of Leg Chart. You may need to rearrange stitches for the correct order. Please note on Row 8 you'll need to transfer the 1st stitch of the round onto cable (= ML Needle 2) in order to work this stitch as a part of the final right-leaning decrease at the end of this round again. Work for desired length of the leg, switching yarns every 2 rounds and ending with Color B and Row 4 (8) of Leg Chart. Sample sock has 78 [70] rounds in the leg.