Water Cycle Sock Knitting Pattern by Tami Sheiffer - Detailed Instructions for Toe-Up Socks with Charts

Water Cycle Socky

By Tami sheiffer 2012

Materials:

· 1 skein Dream in Color Smooshy with Cashmere (70% Merino, 20% Cashmere, 10% Nylon; 400 yards) in Lunar Zazzle US #1 (2.25 mm) circular needle, or size needed to achieve gauge, with 32" or 40" long cable for magic loop Measuring tape or ruler ·Safety pin or locking stitch marker ·Darning needle Waste yarn

Gauge:

34 stitches and 44 rows = 4" (10 cm)

Size:

Women's medium; to fit approximately 8.5" (21.5 cm) foot circumference. Length is adjustable.

Water Cycle Socks

@ Tami Sheiffer 2012

Instructions:

Cast on 18 stitches (9 stitches on each needle) using Turkish cast-on (see page 4) or your preferred toeupcast-on. Round 1: Kfb, knit until 2 stitches before the end of the needle, Kfb, K. Repeat for needle 2. (4 stitches increased)

Round 2: Knit

Repeat these two rounds until there are 62 stitches total (31 stitches on each needle). Knit plain rounds until the toe measures 2 inches (5 cm) long or until it covers the base of your toes.

Foot:

Begin Chart A (page 5) on Needle 1 and knit plain rounds on Needle 2. Then knit Chart C (page 7) on Needle 1 and plain rounds on Needle 2. Repeat rounds 1-12 of Chart C (these rounds will become the "established pattern" for Needle 1) until the sock measures 3.25" - 3.5" (about 8.5 cm) less than your desired foot length, preferably stopping after row 6 or 12 of Chart C and before knitting the stitches on Needle 2.

Gusset:

Begin increasing 2 stitches every round on Needle 2 as follows for 16 rounds, until 32 stitches have been increased (16 stitches on each side): Kfb, knit until 2 stitches before end of needle, Kfb, K. Knit stitches on Needle 1 in established pattern. (63 stitches on Needle 2 at end of increases) At the end of the gusset section, the sock should measure about 2" (5 cm) less than the length of your foot.

Heel:

Knit across Needle 1 in the established pattern. Short Row 1: Knit 46 stitches on Needle 2 (leaving 17 stitches unworked) Short Row 3: Turn work, YO, knit until just before you reach the paired (stitch + Reverse YO) stitches before the gap. Short Row 4: Turn work, Reverse YO, purl until you reach the paired (stitch + YO) stitches before the gap. Repeat the last two rows 8 more times (ending on a Ws row). Next: Turn work, YO, knit until just before you reach the paired stitches. (There should be 10 paired stitches on each side and 9 unpaired stitches in the center). Knit the first stitch of the paired stitches. Then, K2tog 10 times (knitting a stitch together with a reverse YO across the gap), and knit to end of Needle 2. Knit across Needle 1 in established pattern. Knit 16 stitches on Needle 2, then SSK 10 times (knitting together a stitch and YO across the gap). Knit 20, then SSK. Turn work and slip first stitch purlwise. Purl 29, then P2tog. Turn work. (61 stitches on Needle 2)

Heel Flap:

Work rows 1-29 of Chart B (page 6) across the 31 central stitches on Needle 2. Each row will begin with a slipped stitch, and will end with either a SSK (on the RS row) or a P2tog (on the WS row). After row 29, knit across the stitches on Needle 1 in the established pattern, then knit row 30 of Chart B on Needle 2 (knitting the first two stitches together).

Leg:

Continue knitting the stitches on Needle 1 in the established pattern from Chart C, and work Chart D (page 7) on the stitches of Needle 2 until the sock leg measures about 1" (2.5 cm) less than the desired finished height of your sock, ending after row 6 or 12 of Chart D. (The socks in the pattern picture measure 5" (12.5 cm) long from the end of the heel flap to the beginning of the cuff.)

Cuff:

Mark the first stitch of the round with a safety pin or locking stitch marker, so that the pin will sit on the inside of the sock and mark this stitch on the Ws when the stitch is knit. Insert a lifeline using a length of smooth, thin scrap yarn (see page 4). Increase 4 stitches in the next round as follows: K10, M1, K11, M1, K20, M1, K11, M1, K10. (66 stitches) Knit 10 rounds. Next round: \*2YO, S2KPSSO repeat from \* to end. Next round: \*K, P, K repeat from \* to end. Knit the first stitch and move it next to the Needle 2 stitches; this becomes the last stitch of the round and the next stitch is the new beginning of the round. Knit 9 rounds.

Bind off:

Looking inside the sock at the wrong side, find and pick up the first stitch at the beginning of the cuff rounds (marked with a pin).\* Place this stitch on the left needle and remove the safety pin. YO, K2tog, pass YO over the stitch on the right needle. \*Pick up the next stitch from the first cuff round and place it on the left needle. YO, K2tog, pass YO and right-most stitch on the right needle over the stitch last worked (one stitch remains on the right needle). Repeat from \* until all stitches are bound off. Break yarn and weave in ends. Remove waste yarn. \*If you find it easier, you can turn the sock inside out to work the bind off

Alternate Bind off:

If you prefer, loosely bind off all stitches in your preferred fashion. Measure a generous length of yarn for sewing, and cut yarn. Fold hem inward and with a darning needle, sew bound off edge to the first round of the cuff. Remove waste yarn. Weave in ends. Knit second sock the same as the first.

Glossary:

Kfb: Knit into the front and back legs of the stitch Ktbl: Knit through the back leg of the stitch K2tog: Knit two stitches together SSK: Slip one stitch knitwise. Slip another stitch knitwise. Knit these two slipped stitches together through the back legs of the stitches P2tog: Purl two stitches together YO: Yarn over (bring the working yarn over the top of the needle from front to back) 2Y0: Yarn over twice (creating two loops on the needle) Reverse YO: Bring the yarn over the top of the needle from back to front SK2PssO: Slip one stitch knitwise. Knit two stitches together, then pass slipped stitch over the stitch just worked on the right needle S2KPssO: Slip two stitches together knitwise. Knit one stitch, then pass both slipped stitches over the stitch just worked on the right needle SSwyif: Slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front SSwyib: Slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back RS: Right side Ws: Wrong side M1: Make one stitch by lifting the bar of yarn between the last stitch on the right needle and the first stitch on the left needle with the left needle, then knitting into the back leg of the lifted stitch. Turkish Cast On: Make a slip knot on one needle (this will be Needle 2). Hold Needle 1 just above Needle 2, both needles pointing toward the right and parallel to each other. Bring yarn to the back of the needles, then bring it up and over the needles to the front, and down to the bottom. Repeat this step 8 more times, until the yarn is wrapped around both needles 9 times (for a cast on of 18 stitches). Knit across the loops on Needle 1 (the top needle), then knit across the loops on Needle 2. 18 stitches cast on. Lifeline: Thread a darning needle with a generous length of smooth, thin waste yarn. Thread the waste yarn through all of the live stitches on the needles, then set aside the darning needle and leave the waste yarn in place marking the row of stitches.

Chart Key:

Chart A: Toe

Chart Key:

Chart B: Heel Flap

Chart Key:

Chart C: Instep / Front of Leg

Chart D: Back of Leg

Chart Key: