Knitting Recipe: Top-Down Ribbed Beanie This is a knitting recipe which you can use with whatever size needles and any yarn you want to use or happen to have on hand, to make a custom-fit basic beanie/toque that can be left plain or decorated with whatever you want. Use up a bunch of scrap yarns to make a randomly striped beanie, that skein of handspun from the craft fair, the bag of vintage acrylic from the thrift store, strips of cutup t-shirts, whatever! The 1x1 ribbing keeps it stretchy, and the increases are planned to form an X shape at the top of the hat. This recipe assumes that you know the basics of knitting and how to knit in the round. Individuals and small groups may use this pattern to make and sell finished hats (if you do, please let me know, as I am curious! ).
Materials
Knitting needles
in the appropriate size for the yarn and effect you desire, 1 set of dpns \*or\* 2 circular needles \*or\* one circular needle, based on your knitting preference. You may also want needle(s) in a size smaller for the sides of the hat for a closer fit. Yarn of your choice (sample in photo used US 8/5.0mm needles and 1 skein of Noro Kureyon for an adult medium) Yardage guidelines: 100 - 200 yds for child sizes, 150 - 300 yds for adult sizes is given as a basic idea, but this can vary wildly with gauge and hat style. I've knit up bulky handspun on size 13 needles and used only 70 yds to make a medium sized adult hat.
Notions
scrap yarn to use as a stitch holder, a tape measure, and a calculator (optional) The idea here is to knit a square by using double increases, placed to form straight lines. When the square is big enough, you just knit around and wind up with a circular hat! Use any yarn you like with appropriate sized needles (ex. US 85.0mm needles with worsted weight/4/medium yarn - or play around with gauge and experiment, like using fine yarn and big needles for a light, lacy effect). You can use a set of 5 dpns, or use stitch markers with one or two circs. The amount of yarn needed will vary based on the yarn, the size of the beanie, and your personal knit gauge and yarn mileage. Estimates for yarn amounts are included but not to be taken as rules you must follow. If you'd like more guidance on what size needles to use with your yarn, yarnstandards.com has a free list of standard yarn weights and recommended knitting needle sizes. You may want to have some flexibility your desired end results - a single round of knitting in a bulky weight on large needles, for example, could expand the diameter by over 1"/4cm which could be the difference between a child-sized hat and an adult-sized hat. If you are willing to have a hat a bit snugger or looser, you'll be fine. Charts with size estimates for circumference and length are included. If you really, really want to have a specific size, you will be better off knitting a hat from the bottom up. In other words, this pattern is not for you, and I highly recommend Ann Budd's Knitters Handy Book of Patterns (Interweave Press) for basic patterns to knit a hat in the round from the bottom up. Although you could get started without making a swatch, I recommend one anyway. Knitting and washing a swatch will give you a feel for the yarn, stitch, and finished product, and is a way to cut down on the possibility of surprises later on - best to know if you are working with a yarn that will stretch, shrink, relax, change color, etc. before knitting an entire hat.
Abbreviations and terminology used
${\bf k}={\sf k n i t}$ $\mathsf{p}=\mathsf{p u r l}$ dpn(s) $=$ double pointed knitting needle(s) circ(s) $=$ circular knitting needle(s) double increase $=$ increase twice into one stitch. In this recipe, I use (m1, k1, m1) but you may use a different double increase if you prefer. $\mathsf{m}\mathsf{d}=$ make one; increase done by lifting bar between stitches with left needle from back to front and knitting into the front of the lifted bar. You may use a different increase (such as kfb/knit into front and back of stitch) if you prefer. $\mathbf{st}(\mathbf{s})=$ stitch(es) pm $=$ place marker $\mathbf{\hat{c}}\mathbf{o}=$ cast on $\mathbf{Bo}=$ bind off rnd $=$ round $^{\star\star}=$ repeat instructions given between asteris until end of round or instructions say otherwise, for example $\sp{\star}{\sf k}\,^{\sf4}$ ， $\mathsf{p}1^{\star}$ to end of round $=$ knit one stitch, purl one stitch until the round is completed. CROWN CO 8 sts (2 sts on each dpn, 4 sts on each of two circs, or 8 sts on one circ). round 1) [on dpns]: knit into the back of each st. [on circs] $^{\star}{\sf k}2$ (into back of each st), pm\*. round 2) $\mathbf{\x}_{\mathbf{k}+}$ , dbl inc, kto end of needle/k to marker\* [8 sts added] round 3) \*k1, p1\* round 4) $\mathbf{\x}_{\mathbf{k}+}$ , p1\* to last st on needle/k to marker, dbl inc\* [8 sts added] round 5) \*k1, p1\* Repeat rounds 2 - 5 until the top willfit the size you want. A rough way to figure this out is to measure across the center (from side to side) and multiply that number by 3 to get the circumference. For a more exact calcuation, refer to your swatch - measure the number of stitches per inch/4cm and determine the number of total stitches needed from that (stitches per inch multiplied by total desired measurement in inches). For a snug fit, go for something about a 1"/4cm less than the circumference of the head. If you want a more exact fit, slip all stitches to a long piece of scrap yarn, placing markers to separate the stitches from each needle, and try it on. To be really sure, wash and dry it before trying it on, just in case the yarn will shrink or expand a lot.
Crown and Sides
→ Personalized fit measurements will vary
text and photos $\circledcirc$ MK Carroll 2006, 2007, 2008
