Sand Dollar
My unofficial job title ought to be “fairy godmother in training." After all, my day job deals with children, I live within spitting distance of the ocean, I play with desserts and yarn in my "spare" time, my car (and possibly my house) has been described as “bigger on the inside," and above all I love a good story. Sand Dollar is, naturally, the product of such...auspicious beginnings? With the weddings of two of my best friends a year and a half ago, it was only a matter of time before the baby announcements started to roll in. So with not one but two bundles of joy on the way, what's a fairy godmother to do but drive out to the shore and start gathering ideas? But then it was winter and the waves were sad and the sky dreary and the clam and conch shells fragmented and lonely, and I had my mind on hats. Maybe my ears were cold. And then eureka! The vision of a sand dollar started to form in my mind: round, creamy, and promising good things and warm hats. Baby Sand Dollar was conceived as a cross between a tam and a newsie cap. It's knitted from the top down and can be increased or decreased by a factor of 30 sts depending on gauge (which needless to say is not important here) or size of baby's head in question. You could knit it for a boy or a girl depending on the yarn you use. Pair with a knitted cardigan, e.g. Haiku, and we're talking serious cuteness. But why let the babies have all the fun? Knit this baby up in a more blingy yarn or get happy with beads, and you can have your own fairy hat. Since the pattern is essentially modular, based on yo increases over the sand dollar “arms," you can size it up as much as you like for more of a slouchy look, and you can stiffen the double-knit peak with interfacing or plastic to balance out the extra width. So go ahead, break out the wands and the fairy dust, and don't be afraid to play.
SIZE
Baby and Adult, can be modified to suit size of baby/adult.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Baby version: 6.5 inches widest diameter, 4 inch opening diameter, brim 3.5 inches at widest point by 1.5 inches in length. Adult version: 10 inches widest diameter, 6.5 inch opening diameter, brim 6.5 inches at widest point by 2.5 inches length.
MATERIALS
Baby version: Cascade Cherub DK [55% nylon/45% acrylic; 180 yd/165 m per 50g skein]/ colOr: Jade; 1 skein Adult version: Cascade Sunseeker [47% cotton/48% acrylic/5% metallic; 237 yd/217 m per 100g skein]; color: Pale Blue; 1 skein 1 set US #7-8/4.5-5 mm extra-long double-point needles (circulars work as well)
GAUGE
24 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch for both versions Note: gauge is not important in this project.
PATTERN NOTES
Initial round might be easier if worked like an I-cord rather than immediately dividing 5 sts Ontodpns. I divided the hat into sections, i.e. “arms,” “arm tapers, "hat body increases,” “brim." Each of these sections can be modified in size individually. For example, more arm rounds and/or hat body increases to make a floppier hat, or fewer decrease rounds for a wider opening/larger head. I made my stitch counts at widest circumference and hatband divisible by 15 to please my OCD, but it's not strictly necessary. If modifying your brim: working an even number of repeats of rows 1-6 will give you the adult version of rows 7-8, while an odd number will give you the baby version. Working an even number of repeats of rows 7-8 will take you to the row 9 from the same version, while an odd number of repeats will get you the opposite version's row 9. For the row 9 repeats, once you get to somewhere between 2 and 8 sts remaining, if it looks like a smooth curve, go ahead and break yarn and draw through.
PATTERN
CO 5 sts, join and work in the round. Round 1: Kfb into each st. 10 sts. Round 2: Kfb into each st. 20 sts.
Work Sand Dollar arms
Round 1: K1, (yo, k2) to last st, k1. 30 sts. Round 2: K1, (yo, k4, yo, k2) to last 5 sts, yo, k4, yo, k1. 40 sts. Round 3: K1, (yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, ki, yo, k2) to last st, yo, k1. 50 sts. Round 4: K1, (yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2) to last st, yo, k1. 60 sts. Round 5: K2, (yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k4) to last 10 sts, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2. 70 sts. Round 6: K2, (yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k4) to last 12 sts, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2. 80 sts. Round 7: K3, (yo, k3, yo, sk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k6) to last 13 sts, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k3. 90 sts.
Baby version only: begin arm tapers
Round 1: K4, (yo, k10, yo, k8) to last 14 sts, yo, k10, yo, k4. 100 sts. Round 2: K5, (yo, k10, yo, k10) to last 15 sts, yo, k10, yo, k5. 110 sts. Round 3: K7, (yo, k8, yo, k14) to last 15 sts, yo, k8, yo, k7. 120 sts. Round 4: K9, (yo, k6, yo, k18) to last 15 sts, yo, k6, yo, k9. 130 sts. Round 5: K11, (yo, k4, yo, k22) to last 15 sts, yo, k4, yo, k11. 140 sts. Round 6: K13, (yo, k2, yo, k26) to last 15 sts, yo, k2, yo, k13. 150 sts. Round 7: K15, (yo, k30) to last 15 sts, yo, k15. 155 sts.
Work hat body increases
Round 1: K15, (kfb, k30) to last 16 sts, kfb, k15. 160 sts. Round 2: K16, (m1, k32) to last 16 sts, m1, k16. 165 sts. Knit 4 rounds even.
Decreases
Round 1: K15, (k2tog, k31) to last 18 sts, k2t0g, k16. 160 sts. Round 2: K15, (k2tog, k30) to last 17 sts, k2tog, k15. 155 sts. Round 3: K14, (k2t0g, k29) to last 17 sts, k2t0g, k15. 150 sts. Round 4: K14, (k2tog, k28) to last 16 sts, k2tog, k14. 145 sts. Round 5: K13, (k2tog, k27) to last 16 sts, k2t0g, k14. 140 sts. Round 6: K13, (k2t0g, k26) to last 15 sts, k2t0g, k13. 135 sts. Round 7: K12, (k2t0g, k25) to last 15 sts, k2t0g, k13. 130 sts. Round 8: K12, (k2t0g, k24) to last 14 sts, k2tog, k12. 125 sts. Round 9: K11, (k2t0g, k23) to last 14 sts, k2tog, k12. 120 sts. Round 10: K10, (ssk, k2t0g, k20) to last 14 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k10. 110 sts. Round 11: K9, (ssk, k2tog, k18) to last 13 sts, ssk, k2tog, k9. 100 sts. Round 12: K8, (ssk, k2tog, k16) to last 12 sts, ssk, k2tog, k8. 90 sts. Round 13: K7, (ssk, k2tog, k14) to last 11 sts, ssk, k2tog, k7. 80 sts. Round 14: K6, (ssk, k2t0g, k12) to last 10 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k6. 70 sts. Round 15: K5, (ssk, k2tog, k10) to last 9 sts, ssk, k2tog, k5. 60 sts. Knit 3 rounds even. Next row forms a ridge for the brim: Bind off 20 sts. For middle 20 sts: using right needle, pick up right arm of stitch 3 rows below first stitch, bring to left needle, knit those 2 sts together (essentially, through front loop of both sts), and repeat for remaining 19 sts. Bind offlast 20sts, break yarn. 20 sts remaining. These will be referred to as “front" needle. Using long-tail co, cast on 20 sts from last st onto second needle (20 sts per needle or 40 total). These will be the “back" needle.
Double-knit brim
Holding 2 needles parallel (with 1st st on front needle next to last co st), with yarn in back, k1 from front needle, bring yarn to front, sl 1 purlwise from back needle. Repeat across row until all sts on same needle. 40 sts. t row (bottom-of-brim, we'll call it WS): (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to end of ro1 Start shaping decreases: Row 1 (RS): k2tog, (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 38 sts. Row 2 (WS): (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to end. Row 3 (RS): k2tog, (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 36 sts. Row 4 (WS): (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to end. Row 5 (RS): k2tog, (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2t0g. 34 sts. Row 6 (WS): (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to end. Row 7 (RS): k2tog (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 32 sts. Row 8 (WS): k2tog (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 30 sts. Repeat rows 7-8 three times. 18 sts. Row 9 (RS): k3tog ( k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 3 sts, k3tog. 14 sts. Repeat row 9 two more times, ending on a RS row. 6 sts. Row 10 (WS): k3tog twice. 2 sts. With WS facing, break yarn and draw through remaining sts.
ADULT VERSION
Same as Baby version up through Round 7 of Sand Dollar arms, then Round 8: K4, (yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k8) to last 14 sts, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k4.100 sts. Round 9: K5, (yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k10) to last 15 sts, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3, y0, k5.110 sts. Round 1o: K5, (yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k10) to last 17 sts, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, y0, k5. 120 sts. Round 1i: K6, (yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k12) to last 18 sts, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, y0, k6. 130 sts.
Arm tapers
Round 1: K7, (yo, k12, yo, k14) to last 19 sts, yo, k12, yo, k7. 140 sts. Round 2: K8, (yo, k12, yo, k16) to last 20 sts, yo, k12, yo, k8. 150 sts. Round 3: K10, (yo, k10, yo, k20) to last 20 sts, yo, k10, yo, k10. 160 sts. Round 4: K12, (yo, k8, yo, k24) to last 20 sts, yo, k8, yo, k12. 170 sts. Round 5: K14, (yo, k6, yo, k28) to last 20 sts, yo, k6, yo, k14. 180 sts. Round 6: K16, (yo, k4, yo, k32) to last 20 sts, yo, k4, yo, k16. 190 sts. Round 7: K18, (yo, k2, yo, k36) to last 20 sts, yo, k2, yo, k18. 200 sts. Round 8: K20, (yo, k40) to last 20 sts, y0, k20. 205 sts.
Hat body increases
Round 1: K20, (kfb, k40) to last 21 sts, kfb, k20. 210 sts. Round 2: K21, (m1, k42) to last 21 sts, m1, k21. 215 sts. Round 3: K21, (kfb, k42) to last 21 sts, kfb, k21. 220 sts. Round 4: K22, (m1, k44) to last 22 sts, m1, k22. 225 sts. Knit 6 rounds even.
Decreases
Round 1: K21, (k2t0g, k43) to last 24 sts, k2t0g, k22. 220 sts. Round 2: K21, (k2tog, k42) to last 23 sts, k2tog, k21. 215 sts. Round 3: K20, (k2t0g, k41) to last 23 sts, k2t0g, k21. 210 sts. Round 4: K20, (k2t0g, k40) to last 22 sts, k2t0g, k20. 205 sts. Round 5: K19, (k2t0g, k39) to last 22 sts, k2t0g, k20. 200 sts. Round 6: K19, (k2tog, k38) to last 21 sts, k2tog, k19. 195 sts. Round 7: K18, (k2tog, k37) to last 21 sts, k2tog, k19. 190 sts. Round 8: K18, (k2tog, k36) to last 20 sts, k2t0g, k18. 185 sts. Round 9: K17, (k2tog, k35) to last 20 sts, k2t0g, k18. 180 sts. Round 10: K17, (k2tog, k34) to last 19 sts, k2tog, k17. 175 sts. Round 11: K16, (k2t0g, k33) to last 19 sts, k2tog, k17. 170 sts. Round 12: K16, (k2tog, k32) to last 18 sts, k2t0g, k16. 165 sts. Round 13: K15, (k2t0g, k31) to last 18 sts, k2tog, k16. 160 sts. Round 14: K15, (k2tog, k30) to last 17 sts, k2tog, k15. 155 sts. Round 15: K14, (k2t0g, k29) to last 17 sts, k2tog, k15. 150 sts. Round 16: K13, (ssk, k2t0g, k26) to last 17 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k13. 140 sts. Round 17: K12, (ssk, k2t0g, k24) to last 16 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k12. 130 sts. Round 18: K11, (ssk, k2t0g, k22) to last 15 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k11. 120 sts. Round 19: K10, (ssk, k2tog, k20) to last 14 sts, ssk, k2t0g, k10. 110 sts. Round 20: K9, (ssk, k2t0g, k18) to last 13 sts, ssk, k2tog, k9. 100 sts. Round 21: K8, (ssk, k2tog, k16) to last 12 sts, ssk, k2tog, k8. 90 sts. Knit 3 rounds even. Next row forms a ridge for the brim: Bind off 30 sts. For middle 30 sts: using right needle, pick up right arm of stitch 3 rows below first stitch, bring to left needle, knit those 2 sts together (essentially, through front loop of both sts), and repeat for remaining 29 sts. Bind off last 30sts, break yarn. 30 sts remaining. We'll call this “front" needle. Using long-tail co, cast on 30 sts from last st onto second needle (30 sts per needle or 60 total). This is the “back" needle.
Double-knit brim
Holding 2 needles parallel (with 1st st on front needle next to last co st)with yarn in back , k1 from front needle, bring yarn to front, sl 1 purlwise from back needle, repeat across row until all sts on same needle. 6o sts. t row (bottom-of-brim, we'll call it WS): (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to end of ror Start shaping decreases: Row 1 (RS): k2tog, (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 58 sts. Row 2 (WS): (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to end. Row 3 (RS): k2tog, (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 56 sts. Row 4 (WS): (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to end. Row 5 (RS): k2tog, (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 54 sts. Row 6 (WS): (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to end. Repeat rows 1-2 twice, then rows 3-4 0nce. 48 sts. Row 7 (RS): k2tog (k1, sl 1 purlwise) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 46 sts. Row 8 (WS): k2tog (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to last 2 sts, k2tog. 44 sts. Repeat rows 7-8 five times. 24 sts. Row 9 (RS): k3tog (sl 1 purlwise, k1) to last 3 sts, k3tog. 20 sts. Repeat row 9 three more times, ending on a WS row. 8 sts. With RS facing, break yarn and draw through remaining sts.
FINISHING
Double-knit brim forms a pocket. If desired, cut a piece of interfacing or plastic (I used a milk jug) to shape of brim and insert into pocket. Sew pocket closed using tail from cast-on (use your favorite grafting stitch, as it's the only bit of grafting you need for this project). Weave in ends, block if desired, and enjoy.
