| Details about the Project Picture | |||
| Hat#4BrickBasketweave Based on my design | |||
| Multiple 6 stitches Needle Size 6 | |||
| Cast on Finished size | 96 Adult medium | ||
| PlymouthJeanneeWorsted | |||
| 51% cotton, 49% acrylic main color (mossy green) #30 | |||
| contrast color (dark blue) # 57 | |||
| Supplies | Needles for decreasing (long circular for magic loop, 2 circulars or DPNs) | ||
| stitch markers | |||
| Tapestry needle for weaving in ends worsted weight yarn (recommend a light worsted). I used a cotton blend here. | |||
| (Note that the amounts are APPROXIMATE, I didn't measure exactly): 120 yards main color, 30 contrast color | |||
| A Note about Size I'm definitely NOT a designer and have issues with gauge. I am a fairly tight knitter and with the | |||
| #6 needles, this hat fit me about perfectly. I have an average size woman's head. The finished length from brim to end was | |||
| about 8" (unstretched). The brim around was approximately 17.5" (unstretched). If you need it larger or smaller, you could | |||
| change your needle size. Length could be adjusted with a longer ribbing. Size around could be adjusted by adding a few stitches | |||
| between the repeats around. | |||
| Casting On I use a long-tail cast on. I cast on in knit and purl (yes, there IS a way to cast on in purl too). Just regular long tail will work too. If you'd like to learn how to do the long tail purl cast on, google it, there are several good sites. | |||
| Joining in the Round You probably already know how to do this, if not, there are TONS of good online resources. My | |||
| Abbreviations k knit | |||
| p sl-1 | purl | ||
| k2tog | knit 2 together (go thru 2 stitches at same time & knit them together) | ||
| psso | pass the slipped stitch over repeat the directionsbetween the asterisks over&over forentireround | ||
| k1-tbl | knit 1 through the back loop purl 2 stitches together | ||
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| Stitch Markers thin, silicone ring type. The hard plastic ones have a tendency to run away from me sometimes, the silicone ones seem to stick | |||
| to the needles better. But you could use any kind, or even scrap yarn tied into a circle. Here are a few ways they help me here. Casting on This pattern calls for 96 stitches, in multiples of 8. 96 divided by 8 = 12. | |||
| So, before I even start casting on, I get out 12 stitch markers and lay them out. I always use a bright green one to designate the beginning of my round. As I'm casting on, every time I reach 8 stitches, I double check my 8-count and place a stitch marker. | |||
| When all my markers are used up, I have the amount of stitches I need (although Ill usually go back and count the markers | |||
| to make sure I really have 12 - errors have been known to happen). | |||
| Ribbing | |||
| Your ribbing is 1x3 (1 purl, 3 knit). If you aren't ending each 8 stitch section | |||
| with a knit 3, something is wrong. You can go back right away and fix it. | |||
| Pattern The pattern repeats are in 8 stitch sections. You just repeat them | |||
| over and over around. If you are supposed to end a section with a knit 2 and yet somehow you only have knit 1, you know you have made a mistake in THAT section. It is a way of constantly checking yourself, saving great aggravation later. | |||
| Decrease counting In the decrease rounds, you decrease first in 8 stitch sections and it goes down | |||
| by 1 stitch every other round. You will decrease every other round. Your decreases will always involve the last 2 stitches of the section | |||
| Decreaserounds A little trick I do to help myself in the decrease rounds to remember | |||
| whether I'm doing a decrease round or a plain knit round is this. When I'm doing a decrease round, I add an extra stitch marker | |||
| There is a little mini tutorial at the end on doing the sl-1 ... k2tog ... psso | |||
| PatternDirections | |||
| UsingContrastColorandlong-tailcaston-Caston96stitches | |||
| (since I use the long tail purl and knit cast on, I cast on p1, k3 across) | |||
| Round 1 withcontrastcolor | *p1 k3 * | ||
| A note about the next round. It may seem odd to throw in a round of all knit in the middle of the ribbing, but there's a | |||
| o uy u! le punou lono mau au op no fl 'shooo mau aun pue pio au yog mous ju sdna (uonuido u) in | |||
| Round 2 withmaincolor | * knit * | ||
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| Slipping the first stitch of the next round helps hide the color jog created by changing colors. | |||||
| Round 3 with main color | sl-1 k3 | p1 k3 * | |||
| Round 4 with main color | p1 k3 * | ||||
| Repeat round 4 until about 1" long | |||||
| Contrast Color and Decorative Element | |||||
| Decorative Round 1 with contrast color | * knit * | ||||
| Decorative Round 2 with contrast color | sl-1 * knit * | ||||
| Decorative Round 3 | * knit * | ||||
| with contrast color | |||||
| Think of the sl-1 .. k2tog .. psso as one stitch, until you've done all 3 parts, you aren't finished with it. | |||||
| DecorativeRound4 * | sl-1 .. k2tog .. psso | k2 * | |||
| with contrast color | yo k1 | yo k2 | |||
| Decorative Round 5 with contrast color | *k1-tbl k1 | k1-tbl k5 * | |||
| DecorativeRound6 with contrast color | * yo k1 | yo k2 | sl-1 .. k2tog .. psso | k2 * | |
| Decorative Round 7 with contrast color | * k1-tbl k1 | k1-tbl | k5 * | ||
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| DecorativeRound8 withmaincolor | knit | ||
| Decorative Round 9 withmaincolor | sl-1 knit |
| DecorativeRound9 with main color | sl-1 * knit * | |
| I'd recommend a Rescue Row after the last round if you think it might be help | ||
| Pattern Rounds - use main color | ||
| Pattern round 1 | * k1 p6 | k1 * |
| Pattern round 2 | *k1 p6 | k1 * |
| * knit * | ||
| Pattern round 3 | ||
| Pattern round 4 | *p3 k2 | p3* |
| Pattern round 5 | * p3 k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 6 | * knit * | |
| Pattern round 7 | * k1 p6 | k1 * |
| Pattern round 8 | * k1 p6 | k1 * |
| Pattern round 9 | * knit * | |
| Pattern round 10 | *p3 * k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 11 | *p3 k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 12 | * knit * | |
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| Pattern round 13 | *k1 | p6 | k1 * |
| * k1 | k1 * | ||
| Pattern round 14 | p6 | ||
| Pattern round 15 | * knit * | ||
| Pattern round 16 | *p3 | k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 17 | p3 | k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 18 | * knit * | ||
| Pattern round 19 | * k1 | p6 | k1 * |
| Pattern round 20 | * k1 | ||
| p6 | k1 * | ||
| Pattern round 21 | knit | ||
| Pattern round 22 | * *p3 | k2 | p3 * |
| Pattern round 23 | *p3 | k2 | p3 * |
| * knit * | |||
| Pattern round 24 | |||
| Pattern round 25 | k1 p6 | k1 * |
| Pattern round 26 | k1 p6 | k1 |
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| Pattern round 27 | * knit * | |
| I'd recommend a Rescue Row after the last round if you think it might be helpful to you. | ||
| Change to whatever needle style you prefer to prepare for decreasing in the round - magic loop | ||
| (my preferred method), double-pointed needles, or two circulars. Begin Decreases | ||
| Decrease Round 1 | *p3 k2 | p1 p2tog * |
| DecreaseRound2 | p3 k2 | p2 * |
| Decrease Round 3 | * k5 k2tog | |
| Decrease Round 4 | *k1 p4 | k1 * |
| *k1 | ||
| DecreaseRound5 | p3 | k2tog * |
| DecreaseRound6 | * *k5 * | |
| Decrease Round 7 | *p1 k2 | p2tog * |
| Decrease Round 8 *p1 | k2 | p1 * |
| DecreaseRound9 | *k2 k2tog * | |
| DecreaseRound 10 | * k1 p1 | k1 * |
Hat #4 Brick Basketweave
| DecreaseRound11 | *k1 P2* | ||
| As you work the next round, remove all the markers except your beginning of round one. | |||
| DecreaseRnd12 | * k2 * | ||
| DecreaseRnd13 | * k2tog * | ||
| Go through the stitches on your needles (in the same direction like you were going to knit them). | |||
| ( sl-1 .. k2tog .. psso ) | |||
| Slip 1 (sl-1) | |||
| Gointothenextstitchontheleft | Slip it from the left needle to the right needle | |
| needlelikeyouwereg going to | without working the stitch. Just use your working yarn | |
| purl it ("purlwise"). | to go past that slipped stitch to do whatever comes | |
| next (in this case itll be a k2tog). | ||
| Pull the slipped stitch all the | Here it is after you've pulled it off. | The pen above shows the | |
| way off the needle. | little bar that passed over | ||
| stitch made. | |||
